ramishkad

The other benefit of going to Drive One would be when selling your car in Sri Lanka. People would prefer an agent maintained vehicle with service records. I'm not saying Sunway is bad or anything, just the mindset in SL car market. I am servicing mine at Drive One and mine was a grey import. So I had to pay that 50k for the initial service as well. Second service if I recall correctly was around 32k. This was for an A3.

I can understand what you are going through. But keep in mind that all of these parts are replaceable and can be repaired - even though its a JDM, there is no magic in the Vezel that isn't incomprehensible to a good technician. If Stafford gives you the diagnosis to replace the master break pump, I would strongly recommend you get a second opinion from another non-agent vendor who is specialized in Honda repairs. Stafford from my experience is trigger happy to replace parts and do trial and error repairs which can end up being a waste of money. Do you have the diagnostic report they did when the scanner was connected? Usually HDS errors are very specific and point in the general direction of a solution.

After 13 years of driving various Japs, I recently switched to an euro. While there are cons of owning an Euro in SL, I don't think I'll ever switch to a Jap again. Just saying...

I changed coolant at every 40k km which is around once every 1.5 years - 2 years. I used the Toyota Blue coolant on the Honda.

I put Mobil 1 0W-3 fully synthetic oil for the 6 or so years I had my previous car (Honda Civic Hybrid) from Sterling but did the service at 7500km. I ran about 1000-1500km per month. Maybe you can do 10k with that oil, but I didnt want to take any chances with the climate and extreme traffic conditions in SL so I did it at 7.5k just to have peace of mind. I never had any engine related issues in that car and I had run 125000km by the time I sold it. I also changed the CVT oil at every 10000-15000km. Agents recommended 40k intervals. But there was a noticable improvement in the shorter cycle changes I did after researching online. That CVT ran smooth without any issues until I sold it. Did I go overboard with oil change intervals? Probably yes. Was it worth it? Absolutely.

What I mentioned may not be true for all cars. However as far as I know most of the vehicles use a tech based on that general concept. I dont see a delay in my current vehicle (2019 YoM) either. But I saw a delay in my previous car (2011 YoM).

This is quite normal and I do not believe this is an issue. The reason for the slow update is because of how the level mechanism works. On most cars, the level mechanism is an arm attached to the top of the fuel tank which has a plastic float at the bottom. The float will be on top of fuel surface at different angles given the level of fuel in the tank. The cars guage works by calculating the angle and height the plastic float is at. It takes these readings intermittently and at somewhat slower intervals. If I am not mistaken, the delays between readings is by design. If you design this to update in real time, the fuel gauge will fluctuate when you take a bend, when you are on a slope etc.

This bears all the hallmarks of a low 12v battery. Do a load check on the 12V. Once you replace the battery, you need to connect this to a Honda Diagnostic Scanner (HDS) and clear all the logged error codes. If not, some systems may work in safe mode since the codes will be retained in memory. If it's not the 12v battery, HDS report will indicate what is wrong with each system. I would strongly suggest you get this done via agents or someone reputable who has a Honda diagnostic scanner. Generic ODB scanners in most of the garages would not detect or show all the error codes. Either way if you purchased the vehicle without an inspection, a full scan using HDS is strongly recommended. Please note that some of the errors that may show up in HDS scan are nominal and does not require addressing. But these can sound scary when you read the report and if you mechanic is a scammer they can exaggerate the issues that are logged and try to exploit you with it. So when you get the report do some research on the internet about the errors codes logged there. Or go to a mechanic you can fully trust. Or go to the agents.

Same with mine. Although mine doesn't say 'Brand New'. It just says New. It had to be taken to RMV for weighing etc - the process was handled by the car sale guy that imported it.

It is clearly mentioned in the service manual and depending on the vehicle it would be displayed inside the fuel tank cap as well. But not all 1000cc would need 95. Most Euros would. Mine (Euro) clearly says 95.

1st row - right side is the game. I flags on the building are less detailed. 2nd row- right side. Picture of some construction equipment visible on the building on the left image.

That's what I was thinking too. From which place did you get it done for your cars? Any specifics? Thanks.

Where do you guys go to do wheel alignment and how often? Audi agent told me wheel alignment is not necessary and hence they don't do it. That goes against everything I've learnt so far about cars so I want to do it elsewhere.

In the case of Audi and DriveOne, they would service grey imports. But they do charge a hefty initial service fee - 58k for 1000cc or below models and 70k for 1400cc or below. IMO worth the premium. But as you said they would likely not honor recalls or warranty for grey imports.

I use 3M leather and vinyl restorer which is available in local supermarkets and some care care establishments. A spray can would cost around 2500 and would last for more than 6 months on moderate use. My vehicles seats are not fully leather but a mix of fabric + leather (there is a fancy term for this which I cannot remember). So far this seems to have worked well but I've only been using the car for 8 months so durability remains to be seen.

AFAIK only the Scanner can fully reset the IMA. Disconnecting the battery terminals would clear out any error codes (DTC) and force a re calibration of the BCM.

Value controlled by the battery control module is called the State of Charge (SoC). It's a value that moves between 0-100% regardless of the usable capacity. I forgot to mention earlier that BCM will reset the 'usable capacity' when the system is reset. But it will always normalize to the actual value once you run 100-200km or more. So when getting the report, always ensure that it is not taken immediately after a system reset (this can be figured out in the same report as it shows the mileage since last reset).

It can be checked accurately. The parameter to check is "Hybrid battery usable capacity". In Honda Ni-MH batteries the max capacity is 75%. If the usable capacity is 35%, that means the battery has 35/75% of its original capacity.

I' don't know about your family dynamics and it's not my place to advise you, but I can tell you that arguing with a partner over an accident is not worth it. Cars, no matter how precious they are to us, are replaceable. People that are close to you may not be. Just my two cents. Did you by any chance check if VTEC had changed the cars number plate covers to those that have their branding? They did this to me without asking (both front and back and the existing ones were perfectly fine) and I wasn't fond of it. I only noticed it after a couple of days after taking the car home. One disadvantage of having these plates is that VTEC motors brand is somewhat associated with accident repairs. So people might assume your car went through a massive accident even when it didn't.

Out of these vehicles the Audi A1 would not be comfortable for 5 people on long trips. The back seat is relatively small. As for the safety features such as auto break, in a country like SL where road discipline ins almost non existent, you'd want to have complete control when driving. So I wouldn't put much weight on software features and would rather focus on physical safety features i.e. number of airbags.

Good to hear. Close to vehicle as in inside the service area?

Well C# is not really my area of expertise but is the server running at all? Can you go to the event viewer and see if there are any startup errors for the MSSQL service or any related services?

Of all the games you could have picked, why Most Wanted? Only thing that game will make her want to do is to try near misses in real life to get the points. Try GRID 2 or Forza Mortorsports titles if you are serious about this. Even so, I doubt it's a good way of achieving the said goal.

I can vouch for the FD3 as well. I used a 2011 model car for 6 years and 125000km and it gave very little trouble other than regular maintenance (hybrid battery was replaced under warranty when it was imported. Replacement battery was still good after 100000km on it by the time I sold the car). Between FD3 and GP1, the FD3 has better handling, driving experience and comfort. GP1 has better fuel economy and reduced hybrid battery wear. I would actually put the FD3 above the FD1 and FD4 when it comes to initial acceleration thanks to the electric motor and the instantly available torque. However, the FD3 would be a viable investment only if the OP runs 1500+km per month. As mentioned it's not built for saving fuel as Aquas and Priuses do. It is also not a good vehicle to have parked around which is a primary cause for its hybrid battery issues. @op If you run high miles per month, seriously consider the FD3.

1.Your Insurance company - SLIC 2. Insurance type Full or 3rd party - Full 3.How much per year with your Vehicle type and valuation - 103000LKR for vehicle valued at 8.7 million 4.How fast they paid your last insurance claim - Pretty fast. Never had to fuss over it so far. 5.How is their customer service when claiming - So far so good.