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ramishkad last won the day on January 15

ramishkad had the most liked content!

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About ramishkad

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    Cars, Computers, Electronics

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    A3 S-Line Sedan
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    1000cc Turbo

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  1. What I mentioned may not be true for all cars. However as far as I know most of the vehicles use a tech based on that general concept. I dont see a delay in my current vehicle (2019 YoM) either. But I saw a delay in my previous car (2011 YoM).
  2. This is quite normal and I do not believe this is an issue. The reason for the slow update is because of how the level mechanism works. On most cars, the level mechanism is an arm attached to the top of the fuel tank which has a plastic float at the bottom. The float will be on top of fuel surface at different angles given the level of fuel in the tank. The cars guage works by calculating the angle and height the plastic float is at. It takes these readings intermittently and at somewhat slower intervals. If I am not mistaken, the delays between readings is by design. If you design this to update in real time, the fuel gauge will fluctuate when you take a bend, when you are on a slope etc.
  3. This bears all the hallmarks of a low 12v battery. Do a load check on the 12V. Once you replace the battery, you need to connect this to a Honda Diagnostic Scanner (HDS) and clear all the logged error codes. If not, some systems may work in safe mode since the codes will be retained in memory. If it's not the 12v battery, HDS report will indicate what is wrong with each system. I would strongly suggest you get this done via agents or someone reputable who has a Honda diagnostic scanner. Generic ODB scanners in most of the garages would not detect or show all the error codes. Either way if you purchased the vehicle without an inspection, a full scan using HDS is strongly recommended. Please note that some of the errors that may show up in HDS scan are nominal and does not require addressing. But these can sound scary when you read the report and if you mechanic is a scammer they can exaggerate the issues that are logged and try to exploit you with it. So when you get the report do some research on the internet about the errors codes logged there. Or go to a mechanic you can fully trust. Or go to the agents.
  4. Same with mine. Although mine doesn't say 'Brand New'. It just says New. It had to be taken to RMV for weighing etc - the process was handled by the car sale guy that imported it.
  5. It is clearly mentioned in the service manual and depending on the vehicle it would be displayed inside the fuel tank cap as well. But not all 1000cc would need 95. Most Euros would. Mine (Euro) clearly says 95.
  6. 1st row - right side is the game. I flags on the building are less detailed. 2nd row- right side. Picture of some construction equipment visible on the building on the left image.
  7. That's what I was thinking too. From which place did you get it done for your cars? Any specifics? Thanks.
  8. Where do you guys go to do wheel alignment and how often? Audi agent told me wheel alignment is not necessary and hence they don't do it. That goes against everything I've learnt so far about cars so I want to do it elsewhere.
  9. In the case of Audi and DriveOne, they would service grey imports. But they do charge a hefty initial service fee - 58k for 1000cc or below models and 70k for 1400cc or below. IMO worth the premium. But as you said they would likely not honor recalls or warranty for grey imports.
  10. I use 3M leather and vinyl restorer which is available in local supermarkets and some care care establishments. A spray can would cost around 2500 and would last for more than 6 months on moderate use. My vehicles seats are not fully leather but a mix of fabric + leather (there is a fancy term for this which I cannot remember). So far this seems to have worked well but I've only been using the car for 8 months so durability remains to be seen.
  11. AFAIK only the Scanner can fully reset the IMA. Disconnecting the battery terminals would clear out any error codes (DTC) and force a re calibration of the BCM.
  12. Value controlled by the battery control module is called the State of Charge (SoC). It's a value that moves between 0-100% regardless of the usable capacity. I forgot to mention earlier that BCM will reset the 'usable capacity' when the system is reset. But it will always normalize to the actual value once you run 100-200km or more. So when getting the report, always ensure that it is not taken immediately after a system reset (this can be figured out in the same report as it shows the mileage since last reset).
  13. It can be checked accurately. The parameter to check is "Hybrid battery usable capacity". In Honda Ni-MH batteries the max capacity is 75%. If the usable capacity is 35%, that means the battery has 35/75% of its original capacity.
  14. I' don't know about your family dynamics and it's not my place to advise you, but I can tell you that arguing with a partner over an accident is not worth it. Cars, no matter how precious they are to us, are replaceable. People that are close to you may not be. Just my two cents. Did you by any chance check if VTEC had changed the cars number plate covers to those that have their branding? They did this to me without asking (both front and back and the existing ones were perfectly fine) and I wasn't fond of it. I only noticed it after a couple of days after taking the car home. One disadvantage of having these plates is that VTEC motors brand is somewhat associated with accident repairs. So people might assume your car went through a massive accident even when it didn't.
  15. Out of these vehicles the Audi A1 would not be comfortable for 5 people on long trips. The back seat is relatively small. As for the safety features such as auto break, in a country like SL where road discipline ins almost non existent, you'd want to have complete control when driving. So I wouldn't put much weight on software features and would rather focus on physical safety features i.e. number of airbags.
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