vitz

Thanks!!! Here in Sri Lanka I am not sure such a place give a good attention, even in general service. I wrote what I faced at the agent when needing a brake oil change!!!! Even they identified rack end failure in my EC as a failed rack needing the replacement of the entire rack!!! Our sheer interest on vehicles will assure the vehicle is in good order. As you said, its good to have a good inspection schedule by ourselves to keep the vehicle in order. Even, we better prepare such in this forum.... Surely, inspection of brake pistons annually will be a one action!!!

No, the version I got didnt come with the TPMS. It looks a good idea to purchase one

Accidentally my mechanic observed that front wheels are over heated in my EC. Apparently, I changed brake oil one or two months ago.. (Of course it was quite delayed change) Suspicion was on stuck brakes.....thus we started our inspections step by step.... Caliper pins are loose and working fine, no issues of guiding paths of brakes, caliper piston dust boots are also okay to the outside..... Then the suspicion was on the caliper piston or caliper..... So we pushed out the piston...... Oh...no....the dust boot has been torn very inside which was not apperent to out side See the condition of the piston Its apparent that water entry from the torn boot has corroded the piston. luckily caliper bore was not damaged....It looks all has happended outside the inner o-ring of the cliper (you know what I meant) Same story in the front wheel in the other side... Did not check rear wheels though.. The repair was quite costly.... fortunatly the piston of the Vezel and dust covers exactly matched the EC Lessons learnt: 1. Check the heating up of weels especially at shorter distances. 2. When changing brake oil better to bleed it entirely by pushing out the piston. 3. I got no clue, how could I avoided this, as the damate to the boot was not clear to outside and only apparent when pushing out the piston out

To me too....full insurances from 2009 -2021 costed a lot but barely any claims..

Hi All, It was a risk I took by opting for third-party insurance for my EC, especially considering that my daily commute is very short. Unfortunately, I paid the price as a reckless three-wheeler driver, who blatantly violated road rules, crashed into me. As usual, when 3 wheel fellows break the rules often portray themselves as innocent and poor when held accountable. You know what would happen if the situation were reversed. It would likely lead to a lengthy legal process to obtain compensation from their insurance company. Regardless, I had to cover the costs for the front bumper, black front garnish, and silver garnish. What struck me was the inflated prices of these parts from local vendors in the Nugegoda area. It seems like these prices are set with insurance claims in mind. For instance, the silver garnish for the front bumper was priced at Rs. 150,000.00, and the bumper itself was Rs. 150,000.00. Ironically, I managed to import the same silver garnish brand new (genuine) for Rs. 43,000.00 from Amayaxx. I hesitated to do the same for the bumper due to concerns about import taxes. See the substantial profit margins that vehicle part importers are making. I still wonder whether they are paying their fair share of taxes to the GVT. In a place filled with reckless drivers and laws that do not adequately support the victim, especially in vehicle accidents, it makes me reconsider my decision on third-party insurance.

Looks they don't need money and I will never visit this place again!!!!

by the way steering rack adjustment as you see in this video, is it a common practice. Times I am wondering the play I am getting could be related to this. Anyways, I am planning first check rack ends through my own machanic and sort out this issue. There is little chance of failing a steering rack of EPS system, given the simplicity of the internal construction....

year, manual says the replacement is due in every 30000 or 2 years (Yesterday just I realized this). I am wondering why they were reluctant for brake fluid replacement even I requested it, saying the replacement of brake oil would fail the cylinder washers, bla bla....Its really pathetic to see bunch of unprofessional guys handling a place known to be reliable...

Many thanks for the reply. I took it to the agent (kandy), however, it looks like they dont have any experts to identify the issue correctly. Just by moving the rie-end in horizontal direction they came to the conclusion that its a failure of the rack, needing nearly 4 lks to repair. Further, I wanted to get brake oil replaced as its almost 5 years gone. By looking at the color of oil they said no need of changing brake oil. But, little conductivity meter of mine said it got plenty of water. To my surprise, Unit#d Mot#rs in Kandy branch even does not have a brake oil moisture tester.... really unprofessional

Hi All, It looks that rackends of my car (Mit EC) have gone prematurely (40000 km). Don't want even try to contact the agent UM knowing the unjustifiable bill they will come up. Can you guys enlighten me in the following. 1. The service manual says, the whole rack needs to be removed to make this replacement. But, usually garages do remove and replace the rackend without doing so. Is there a risk in it. Actually, the vehicle is not making any steering noise indicating failure of steering components, but the excessive wear (outer side) of the front tires. A very slight play in wheels (vertical movement, ie 9 & 3 clock) was observed by the wheel alignment guy and his diagnosis was rack end failure. Could this be a wrong diagnosis? 2. The tool below is an option, to remove the rackend. would the use of this could damage the rack? 3. Who are the agents for CTR, JIKIU and 555 products. Do you have any experiences on those.

Hi sathyajith, Its not a difficult task if you are familiar with disk brake system. If you are not familiar, get a good machanic to your place and provide raw materials (brake cleaner, silicone based grease"people callled it as "rubber grease") are the items you need to get it done!!!

I agree with you. Often our garage guys are without basics. They never know why silicone based grease should be used in when rubber parts are in contact.

Thanks Sathyajith, Given the same stuff we both used, I am confused with what has went wrong. It seems yours have done almost 20000 km. But better check out pads. Also, caliper pins of CHR tends to dry up very quickly, make sure to grease them once in 5000 km. Its a DIY, if you need a help regarding tools required and how to do, pls let me know.

Thanks IRage, I don't think they are performance pads. its made for CH-R and a Lexus model. I got it directly from the Agent in Sri Lanka and had no hallmarks of a fake stuff, it came with all sort of things such as instruction manuals, fancy stickers etc. But, never know. I do agree, the wear is too much. Should not be the driving style as my Wife used it, but the stock one did almost 65000 km. I popped off the wheels and checked everything. Follow are the observations: 1. Pads were badly worn. Even on a one pad one side was chipped off. 2. Caliper pins are quite stucked. Even rubber sleeve of one was gone. I am wondering the people did the brake pad replacement used a bad quality greased. I remembered they used STR brand stuff (not sikens) 3. Today, I replaced the stock one which was there when replacement was done. They garage guys put a quite a bill though, I could not do it by myself as retracting parking brake was necessary using the scanner. 4. Front brake was as new. Since both front and rear are same type of construction it should not be the type of brake pads. Perhaps, something might have gone wrong when manufacturing rear pads. I am not sure what can go wrong when fixing new pads. But, we never know the quality of work of our garage people . My suspicion goes to poor quality silcone based grease used by our garage people. The grease has ruined (expanded) in our CHR and also EC for which also pads were replaced by the same garage. Due to this issue, I checked brake pads of my EC (Used genuine stuff but replaced from the same garage), in which also caliper pins were badly stucked and rubber sleeve was expanded. I had to remove rubber sleeve of caliper pins when greasing and replacing. Lesson is, good to grease caliper pins at lease once in 5000 km (6 months). Moreover, pads of EC were not worn though pins were stucked!!!! It can't be a issue of the hub as the stock brake gave nearly 65000 km even leaving quite a thick pad. rgds

Hi All, I replaced Genuine Brake pads of my CHR with Brembo as used by Sathyajith. Surprisingly, After 7500 km the rear brake pads are almost gone (even hear the warning noise), but the front ones are as it was fixed. I expected other way round. Its remarkable that the genuine one which was done almost 55000 km is now less worn than the Brembo. I am wondering what is going on here!!!! Has something wrong with brake pads (both are from the same material)? Whether it is not compatible? or mechanical error (I found dried caliper pins in rear break, but rear wheels did not show any sign of stucked brake pads) One observation I made!!!! When reversing I could hear the break wear warning noise, without pressing brake pedal!!!!though it is strange!!!

Hi iRage, Thanks for intellectual contribution for the forum

Agreed. However, manufacturers claim that auxiliary water cooling system integrated to new turbos would do bit of cooling through the siphoning effect of water cooling pipes. Don't know how successful it is?

Bit of research!!!! Two excellent videos on the functioning of the turbo unit and its lubrication system. Checkout the video 2 for the details on the need of timely change of oil to lengthen the life of the turbo

One thing to note, the crankcase breather hose is connected to air inlet of the turbo. Could that add evaporated oil to the compression side and channelling to the intercooler. Just a thought for possibility of adding some oil to the compression side of the turbo charger!!!!

I think the engine clicking noise in high acceleration could be having a link to this. The oil vapour might be making a lean mixture. There could be the leak in the turbine side too, in that case clogging of the Cat Converter would be a problem. Is it okay to run couple of thousand Kms without the turbo replacement? or would it lead to another set of problems?

Had a recheck of the compression side hose for oil. See what we found, residue of fresh oil in the hose between Inter-cooler and the turbo!!!!. Is it normal to have oil in the hose of the compression side? Agents preliminary conclusion is the turbo oil seals are gone, needing a replacement of the turbo. They are still working on it as, some cases were found in Agent imported vehicles also. Pretty alarming about the quality of present day Japanese vehicles. By the way, the turbo used in EC is n IHI RHF3 unit, a similar one is used in CHR too. Bit of digging to the construction of the unit revels its cooled through oil as well as water

Thanks. It seems we need to keep an eye on the depletion. I too agree that better to go for 0W30 SN or SP grade in the next change. Regarding the oil level drop observation! I used the dipstick assuming its a liner reflection of oil level drop. Seems its not so. Nop, I did not observe anything fishy except the metallic noise when uphill drive. By the way, don't you think it could be due to open "PCV Valve"

Thanks IRage, Very useful stuff!!!! 1. The recommendation of EC is "SN GF-5" But Valvoline SynPower 0W20 says it exceeds "SN Plus, SN, SM". I am not sure why it should be 5W30 if it is API SN? 2. There is no turbocharger temp gauge. Turbo does not make unusual noises. But, as mentioned on climb with bit heavy foot, engine makes a clicking noise, only audible when we get side walls/object enabling reflection of engine noise. Noting audible to vehicle. Apart of that , the Engine is pretty smooth. Even, water droplets appear in the exhaust tip. 3. A good care is taken with engine idling. Actually, the vehicle we taken a good care and no chance of operational/maintainance lapses. Could it be (defective) open "PCV" Valve? Bit of unusual idling was observed in the morning from the very first day of the ownership. However, the oil depletion was noticed after 20000 km. I am really concerned on "why the oil burning becomes significant as oil gets old" (As Tiv indicated it could be the too thin oil (0W20)) and why it was not noticeable in first 2000 km. Did something go wrong during last 10000 km or it is just the normal engine wear might have let thin oil to pass through piston rings and get into the combustion chamber. Cheers.

I do agree with you. Agent must be blindly following the recommendation for Japan without putting much thought on our climate. I will move to 5W30 next time. The high intensity of burning oil at the latter stage could be due to further thining of 0W20 under our climate. One point of concern is why the car did not show any consumption of oil during first 20000 km when using 0W20. Could be engine wear could have a relevance.... I will ask the agent to do a compression test next time.

Hi Tiv, Thanks. It was an import from a known source from Japan, reached here 6 months after manufacturing. There were no indications of mileage tempering. This is an Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross. Driving style is not aggressive, and well maintained throughout with genuine filters and valvoline oil. Used mainly for short trips during last 4 years, as per the mileage indicates. Services done in 6 month intervals always. Yes, its consumption from HIgh-Low level of the dipstick during the service interval. But, the consumption intensity became high as oil gets older (last 1000 km), what we noticed was the latter 250-300 ml went off in 1000 km. Anyways, we are monitoring that aspect too. 0W20 is the recommendation by the Agent. According to UM, this problem has been reported in number of JDM ECs but not in local imports as per the UM. However, UM has not worked in detail to find reasons for this problem. Thanks