startyourengines

As stated in the other threads, after years I believe I found a proper mechanic. My car: 1999 Nissan Bluebird SU14 Mechanic details: CN Electronics - 0714898606 (Chaminda) No.11/5/5 Weliamuna Road Hendala, Wattala, Sri Lanka If you are going from Mattakuliya, go straight from centre road towards wattala and at the first junction (hendala junc.) take a right and after you pass a kovil, there is a road to your left called weliamuna road. Take that and keep going straight for about 1 or 2kms and you will notice a jesus statue to your right (when you near the end of the road, not in the middle), turn in and go straight. You will see a huge place filled with cars and you're there. Or Just ask for Chaminda bass from tuk guys in weliamuna road. Reasons: I've been here twice. Once, to repair my instrument cluster which broke down the second I paid the cash to the first owner. It literally stopped working precisely after I paid the cash and got in and started her up. Funny story is, I turned around to look for the guy to ask him about the issue, but he vanished into thin air. Anyway, so I spent nearly 2 to 3 months trying to repair it, by taking it to several mechanics around wellawatte, kirulapone, dehiwala, kalubowila and mount lavania. Nothing worked except for CN Electronics. I kept the car there for a couple of nights since he had other cars to finish work in. He found the issue by using proper scanning tools and did an easy swap of a significant electronic chip/part and volla!! It still works like a charm. For that he charged me 13000/= which I believe was a bit too expensive, but he sorted the issue which no one could fix at all. If not for that fix, the car would be jumping back and forth (something to do with the electronic diesel injection and the instrument cluster) at normal speeds. Secondly, I took it last week to fix an issue which came up after I cleaned the diesel pump at another place to reduce black smoke. This guy did something to the pump and after he fixed it, the car sounded like a muscle car (which I would've loved if it actually looked like one). So I took it to Chaminda (CN Electronics) and he told me to leave it overnight to cool off the engine. I went the very next day and started her up. It sounded like as if there was an engine swap to a petrol one. So quiet and smoke free. He charged me 3500/= which I gladly gave because I was very satisfied. He found a leak inside the diesel pump which was caused by the place I took it first, so he did his magic and all is well. So far, I've been satisfied with his work even though he might charge a little over the top. I've never gone back to complain about something he did. The down-side apart from charges, you might have to remind him now and then about your urgency to get the vehicle back. He uses proper tools, machines and ramps to check and repair vehicles.The place looks like an auto miraj place with a bit cheaper price range. So goodluck to whoever needs help in mechanical or electronical issues. I hope you are satisfied with this place as I am. P.S. He will definitely ask you, how you got to know him if you visit him from a far place. So just say a guy who owns bluebird su14 from wellawatte told you. Helps me reduce my charges next time I go. LOL. Good luck guys.

True that! Finding the right guy to do the work is equivalent to finding a needle in a haystack and I believe I've found my needle. This guy (Chaminda) is good with his work, but some might consider him a bit big headed (which I personally believe, he isn't). Truth be told, he loves to talk. You spend a day with the guy, you might learn some stuff; be it political or automotive. Only issue I found with him is that you might have to leave the car overnight most of the time (safe so for) since the place is always filled. So call and then take the vehicle to him. Surething, will post it on that thread as well.

CN Electronics - 0714898606 No.11/5/5 Weliamuna Road Hendala, Wattala, Sri Lanka If you need introduction, just say owner of a bluebird su14 from wellawatte. They have a website aswel. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post website links, but here goes: http://efirepairing.com/

Thanks for the replies guys. Nipun Tan - Good call on the electronic pump. It is indeed an electronic pump and I'm glad to say that I got it fixed just now. I took it to CN Electronics (yes, the same place I took it last year to repair my instrument cluster) and this guy is properly equipped and talented. He said that there was a leak inside the pump for which he had to replace a part and charged me 3500/= bucks. Now, the car sounds like a petrol vehicle and pulls as it was supposed to and also has very little black smoke. I should say that I am very pleased with this guy's work and I would recommend it to anybody with issues related to electrical, mechanical and electronic issues (no pun intented). The place I took it earlier didn't do it right. But, according to my dad, that guy is good for manual/non-electronic diesel pumps, as he as serviced all my dad's old cars to perfection. Anywho, I would suggest CN Electronics (Chaminda) to anybody with relevant issues. Thanks again guys.

Peugeot407 - I think the timing was right. Not sure though. How do you check that? CNX - I hardly think it is a hissing sound but I will check it out anyway with another guy again then. Thanks Could it be, if the amount of diesel pumped into the cylinder is reduced? I'm not sure if that guy did it when he serviced my car's diesel pump, but he said that it should do better in fuel. Confused.

Hi guys. The last time I came here was when I had the instrument cluster issue with my Bluebird SU14. That issue however, got resolved after I took it to CN Electronics in Hendala, Wattla as I stated in my previous thread. Today, I've got another minor issue with my SU14 again. I was planning to sell my SU14, so I thought I'd give it a proper sellable value since it had a some black smoke coming out. Thus, I took it to Kaduwela to service the diesel pump and injectors, which went quite well. However, thats where the issue starts. After the service was done, which took 4hrs and 9000 bucks (replaced diesel filter as well), the engine noise increased. Like as if an increased tappet noise. The more gas you give, the faster the noise sounds. So I took it to a guy who is close to my place (trustworthy fella) and he said that it wasn't a tappet noise, thus, clearing the cost of adjusting/replacing the shims (which I hear is quite expensive for a DOHC engine). This happened only after the service of the diesel pump. On an additional note, the black smoke wasn't there right after the service but, now it has come back again. The pulling power also has a vague difference (negatively of course). They did some adjustment on the injection system (not sure if im saying it right). If I'm right, they adjusted the advance/retard of the diesel injection. Now, I hope I have explained sufficiently and if anyone understood the entirety of the issue, could you please be kind enough to let me know how I should resolve this. Thank You

Okay so I went to RMV and asked them about this.... and as VVTi stated, if its a one day service, one cannot sell the vehicle for 6 months whereas, if it was a normal service... you can sell it the very next day... of course, once you get the book in hand which takes approximately 2 months. Cheers

Right, the car just got back... Apparently, its not an ECU issue... the guy removed the ecu and checked it completely and it works well it seems (I still didn't have an opportunity to check it).. Anyways, the two issues: 1 - The engine reving issue was related to an improper linking from the electronic diesel pump to the injectors it seems... So the guy serviced the electronic diesel pump and till now that issue has not appeared. Thus, I'm quite happy with that. A*W on the other hand wanted me to change the first injector itself... Confused. But, the job done by CN Electronics seems to have solved the issue. 2 - the instrument cluster gauges dropping to zero which caused the vehicle to be jumpy during acceleration has "hopefully" been resolved. The guy first did something (didn't explain what he actually did... very fishy) and told me it was resolved. So I took it home yesterday but, while driving back home, it showed up again. I was way too annoyed coz I've been dealing with this from the day I bought it (1st Oct 2013). So I took it back to him today morning and that guy removed the cluster and took the speedometer gauge apart. He said that the speedo gauge is the only gauge that has a connection to the ecu. Apparently, the other gauges are linked to the speedo gauge (computer chips) and one individual connection is linked to the ecu. So he replaced the board of the speedo with another nissan one which has a different mileage, just to check if the issue occurs. Till now it hasn't, so he wanted us to drive it for 3 to 4 days and see if the issue recurs. If not, he told me to be bring it back to replace the current mileage memory chip with the original one. As I have no idea about any electronic issue of a vehicle, I'm not able to say if this sounds like a solution... but it seems okay... So i'll keep you guys updated within the next week. Hope it works fine. Fingers crossed. By the way, if you guys think that this doesn't sound like a solution, please do let me know. P.S. It cost me 13,000/= bucks.

Guys, I took it to A*W... and they said that it has two different issues: 1 - the engine reving issue is due to a faulty injector sensor... apparently, the su14 comes with 3 normal and 1 electronic injector (or something like that)... so he told me to change that injector which costs 45k brand new... is it ok to replace that with a reconditioned one?? if so how much do you think it would cost? 2 - the cluster dropping and vehicle jumping issue needs to be diagnosed it seems... they wanted three days and they didn't gimme an estimate.. so I didn't take that offer.. :/ but, as I mentioned before, I took the vehicle to this place in wattala (CN Electronics)... and those guys tried to diagnose with 3 different tools... it kept saying "link error"... the problem with it not being able to connect was due to the socket being 16 instead of 14 (not sure what those numbers meant, but he said that the diagnostic tool connector in the car was the wrong size).... so he told me to drop the vehicle on sunday night so that he could figure out what is wrong by monday... I think i'm gonna give it a shot... hope it works... fingers crossed.

Alrighty The Don, I'm gonna give em a call tomorrow and make an appointment on the weekend and get it checked out. I also gave a call to this guy at wattala (CN Electronics) who apparently specializes in ECU related issues and he wanted me to drop by after Monday (just as a last resort). If all else fails, its a direct drive to wattala. :/ The main issue is that when the instrument cluster stops working, the vehicle jumps when I give it a bit of gas. Such a PAIN in the ***. Sigh

maheshw and magnum - I had my mechanic check the belt, but according to him the belt is is good nick... he said that it just needs tightening... so he did. The Don - bro, when I did the 180 point check, they tried to run a diagnostic but, sadly it couldn't connect... He tried it several times. So, I'm kinda out of luck here. Are you saying that A*W diagnostic might work? If so, I'll deffa take it there... I'm just scared of the price. :/ so you guys are pretty confident that the ecu cannot be affected that easily?? what about the abs sensors?

first off.. thanks for the quick replies guys... maheshw and rumesh88 - well, i did get it checked by three different electricians before getting diagnosed... firstly, i replaced my battery since the previous was about to die. Then, I checked the alternator (at two places) and it was charging fine. after that, i took it to nishantha at dehiwala and he checked for earth and fuses... he even removed the instrument cluster and did some soldering... (Davy, it was I who posted the su14 issue in general automotive section... i thought the soldering fixed it but it came back again in a week)... and Magnum - i did a 180 point check and that guy told me to change my drive belt... I assume thats what you're talking about... I'll be changing that today... I don't think that it is the instrument cluster because a mechanic in kirulapone connected a spare cluster and it still showed the same probs... so, i'm not sure if it's the cluster... then again, I'm not an expert. So do you guys think if it is an issue related to the ECU or ABS sensors or Instrument Cluster?? Thanks folks

I own a Nissan Bluebird SU14 Eprise (Diesel), YOM 1999, Manual. The problem I have is that the car gauges randomly stop working while driving and the rpm and speedometer drops to zero, heat meter drops (the entire meter board stops working). The gauges randomly stop and sometimes it comes back on in a few minutes but generally it stops working for hours. Also, the ABS check light is constantly on. (A mechanic also told me that if the gauges don't work, the battery doesn't get charged... so I'm afraid to drive my car). So, once the gauges stop working the car starts to jump when I give it a bit of gas. Moreover, sometimes when I take my foot off the accelerator, the engine keeps reving at 1250rpm for a few seconds before it drops to 750rpm (idle). It's all kinda messed up. Thus, I took it to a diagnostic guy and he told me after checking, that the ECU is faulty because the car was not getting connected to the diagnostic tool. But an electrician told me its the faulty gauges meter board (instrument cluster)... Does anybody know what the issue is?? It's such a pain.... Or do you guys know a specialist at ecu probs... also, how much does an ecu cost for an su14?? can we get a reconditioned anywhere in colombo? Thanks guys...

yeah, will do that...

What is the duration we have to wait before selling car that was recently bought and registered. I am talking about the second hand cars. Is that rule where you have to wait for six months after registration to sell your car, still in practice?? Thanks folks

I got the problem sorted out... It was all behind the gauges. There were issues with the connection between the sensors and gauges, I guess. I took it to Nishantha Auto Electricals near the Dehiwala zoo and he did some soldering and it started working like clock work. So if anyone has the same issue, I suggest you take it to Nishantha and that guy will get it done. Solid electrician. Thanks again guys.

Thanks for the quick replies bros. As you said Maheshw, I'm going to give it a guy close to my house and I will deffa tell him to check the plug wire (I'm not sure what that is because I'm not much of a engine head... could you elaborate please?)... An electrician near my place told me to bring the vehicle by to check the entire wiring system, so I thought I'll drop it at his garage and give that a shot as well... And Meshlk, if all the above fails I'll give it to the agents (i'm afraid of the charges though :/)... and if that fails I'll deffa PM you... thanks for the backup bro... I'll keep this thread up to date every time I do something to the vehicle. Thanks again guys... real helpfull (Y)

Well, Uditha... I've done the slow release as well and it still bounces. Over the week I did other tests and I've found out that the car jumps ONLY when the gauges (speedometer, rpm, heat, fuel meters) totally stop working. When all the gauges are working, the car runs smoothly but the gauges randomly stop working and the car starts to jump when I give it a bit of gas. However, the jumping reduces when I put my foot down on the pedal. Is there any relationship between the gauges and the jumpiness cause of the car (it seems like an electrical issue connected to a mechanical fault)?? Do you guys know what this issue is or know a solid place to get it checked out? I've already checked two electrical places and a mechanic shed but they don't seem to know what the issue is!! Has anybody faced this kind of issue before?? Thanks guys...

Hi all, I just purchased a Nissan Bluebird SU14 Eprise. It's diesel vehicle which has done 144000 on the ODO. The issue i'm having is that while driving when I shift to the third gear and leave the clutch, the car bounces while moving forward. So I quickly press the clutch and the car runs smoothly for the momentum. The problem occurs when I go to the third or fourth gears only where when I slow down and change to the second, it runs perfectly. I did the clutch test where you put the gear in the third while on standby and you leave the clutch while accelerating and as it is supposed to, the vehicle stopped instead of trying to move. Has anybody had this issue?? Do you guys know what causes this or what this issue is?? Thanks guys

Thanks guys...but since i couldn't find a ck2 within my budget im having my options open. I'm came across a galant and i thought I'd take a look at it. How is the fuel consumption in a diesel 2.0L galant? the car specs are: 2000cc, Manual, 240000km on the clock (with complete engine overhaul at 220000km), YOM 2000 Asking price: 1.6mil What do you guys think?

Its a carburetor??...so the fuel sucks is it??...what are the advantages and disadvantages to it?

Thanks for the info dude. I checked other CK2's and found a difference. The difference is that the one I'm about to buy has the filter on top of the engine and the others as the one on the picture above. Btw, I wanna know if my price is right. I am buying it for 1.5mil. Its a 2000 model, F/O, Manual, 1.5cc, One owner, Navy Blue, Original Condition. Defects: Minor dents, needs a layer of paint, A/C needs to be repaired. Advantages: Damn good engine, all electricals are working perfectly, only 113000kms done, one owner. I know its useless asking if the price is right after offering but I just wanna know. Thanks P.S. can somebody tell me a good place to do the A/C work and do a good paint job for a low or average cost?

Hey guys! I am interested in buying this CK2 that I saw today. It is in really good condition, except for some minor bodywork. The engine is in immaculate condition and it runs perfectly, but I have a question about that. There is like a huge empty space on the upper right side under the hood. I did a test run and the vehicle runs very smoothly. Im not much of a mechanical minded guy...but that empty space is just driving me crazy. I don't know if i should buy the vehicle or not. Very confused. I wanna know if all CK2's come like that or if anything needs to be fixed. I've added a google pic and pointed out in red; the section that looks empty. Btw, im not sure if that air filter (if im right) was there...can an engine run smoothly without an air filter? (again, I suck at the auto mechanics, so please take it easy on me) Car specs: Lancer CK2, YOM - 2000, One owner (Company Maintained), 1500cc, Manual. Please explain in simple terms. Thanks

Thanks for the replies guys... but unfortunately I was unable to get a good su14. Every vehicle had a major issue or was over priced...thanks again. On the other hand, I've seen a Lancer CK2 and I have a question about it. I guess ill create a different thread for it. Thanks

Thanks alot for the quick replies guys... I came across a bluebird 1999 bluebird for around 16/50...thought I'd negotiate and get that...but there are a few issues in it... The RPM meter isn't working in it (not a major issue but i like to own a complete vehicle)...the owner says that its something related to the diesel pump being manual and if it's an auto, there wouldn't be an issue...I just like to know what it could be and the cost to repair/replace it....Any suggestions?? oh and he also mentioned that the bluebird comes with two timing belts. Is that true?? if so, will doing an engine overhaul be costly? Like the spares and all?? Thanks again!