G-Rider

Thanks stig and Rohnd for the details. Checked the bearings closely after removing the Tyre and brake drum, they seem to be faulty. Rotating them by hand, felt grinding and uneven motion. Got a recon bearing for 12,000/= and replaced at pepiliyana place. Now the noise has completely gone.

Thanks Rohnd for reply. Actually the car has HUM/grinding noise while driving. So I had it checked by a Mechanic and He stated that rear bearings have gone bad.

Hi Guys, My car is Mazda 3 (2007) and the time has come to replace its rear wheel bearings. I've done a search in the forum and couldn't find exact answer, so posting below. I checked the prices from a place at Pepiliyana (Ma*na Motors), They quoted me around 18,000/= for Malaysian made model and 28,000/= for genuine model. (Pls note that these prices are for a single bearing). I am very new to Mazda and I'm little surprised for these values since I didn't expect for this much of price. So, could you please help me on below. - Are these prices normal? Is there anyone who bought a wheel bearing for Mazda 3 recently. If so, how was the price and from where? - Is there any known place in Panchikawaththa for Mazda parts (similar to Te*k Motors for Honda) (I noticed Asiri, Rainbow and Gamlath motors in a old threads) Thanks

Thanks all for the comments and I'm happy to hear those. This would keep my mind stick to the Mazda. After you guys mentioned, I read in internet that cold countries use anti-icing chemicals (e.g: salt) to reduce freezing point of water to prevent ice forming on their roads. So, that must be the reason of high corrosion rates in cold countries.

Hi, I’m planning of buying a Mazda 3 or Axela near future (2004 model). I’ve searched and read so many posts related to this awesome car in autolanka forum and had a good understanding of it. I love the overall appearance and the performance of this car and I’m eager to own a one. However, I am bothered of one matter and hope the experts of this forum and existing owners could help me. In Internet, I’ve read many articles which mention that the Mazda 3 is not much “rust resistant”. Some articles (below links) says that the Mazda 3 is the “least rust resistant car” among other famous car brands. (Even worse than Kia, Hyundai) http://forums.redflagdeals.com/top-10-best-worst-rust-resistant-cars-1593327/ http://www.theautonet.com/en/2013/10/09/top-10-best-and-worst-rust-resistant-cars So, is the Mazda 3 actually that much of weak for rust/corrosion? Will that be a major issue when running the car in Colombo including the roads near coastal areas? Thanks

Thanks Rumesh for the details...

No. Initially I had. Once the IAC valve is cleaned, fluctuation has gone and "check engine" lighted.Then I properly plugged the other sensor found in air filter box and check engine also solved. So, now my car seems to be totally fine (Atleast for now :-) ) Thanks ..

Hi, I checked the engine again and found that one sensor (Don't know the name. It's the sensor connected to the Air filter box) was not plugged in correctly. Connector was only inserted halfway to the socket accidentally. So, its my mistake getting the "Check Engine" light. So, after correcting it, the "Check Engine" light turned off and engine seems to be running good. Thanks all for the help so far.

Thanks. I'm in Moratuwa.

Hi Guys, My EK3 has a problem of fluctuating RPM when Idle. When I start the car, RPM is near to 2000 and after few minutes it starts rapidly changing between 800- 2000. As I heard from internet, this kind of things happens due to bad IAC valve. In past also I had the same problem and I replaced the IAC senser with a used one and it only solved the problem for a year. Now Again I faced the same problem. Yesterday, I unplugged the IAC valve and cleaned it and fixed. Now, the RPM fluctuation seems to be solved. But I still feel the idle is not stable and I can now see the "Check Engine" is lighting. I just checked the prices of genuine IAC valve in panchikawaththa and they said it is around 27000/= . Can you please tell me above problem is due to the problematic IAC valve? Is recondition part a better option than buying the brand new one for above big price (Considering the price and the long lasting)? If so, what's the price of a recon one? Thanks