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It can be done but is not recommended. A puncture or blowout of the tube will cause rapid loss of air pressure much like a balloon bursting and you may lose control especially if you are driving at high speed. Don't even think about driving on the expressway. If the car is used exclusively for low speed short journeys like going to the market or bakery it will be okay.

Yes.

Toyota oil filters can be used up to 10k km without any issue. Toyota Lanka changes the oil filter at 10k km intervals anyway. If the mileage is genuine, you can replace the fuel filter at 80k km unless you pump contaminated fuel from old petrol sheds. I believe your car has a 1KR FE engine which is not a very high tech engine and has been in use for around 15 years. It is not necessary to go for 0W-20 fully synthetic for these engines though it will not do any harm. 0W-20 is recommended for maximum fuel efficiency and not for any protection. Given the ambient temperature in our country will never go below freezing, the normal 10W-30 Toyota oil will be good enough for your car. The user manual/service booklet or the sticker under the hood will give an interval of 15k km or 1 year for service under normal conditions and 7.5k km or 6 months for severe conditions. In Sri Lanka 5k km service intervals are recommended as a lot of cars sit in traffic for a long time and may take over 1hour to cover 10km. In your case, based on your usage pattern, it is safe and more cost effective to stick to Toyota 10W-30 and change the oil at 7.5k km to 10k km or 6 monthly intervals. If you had a more modern engine like a downsized turbo, I would have recommended a 0W-20 fully synthetic as they are more sensitive to oil quality, to lubricate the turbo at low temps as well as to reduce intake valve carbon deposits. As for your warranty, if you read the fine print you will notice it is not worth the paper it is printed on. All the moving parts, plastic and rubber parts will not be covered. So, unless you have a cracked engine block or something similar wrong with your transmission, the warranty will not cover it! Problems of this magnitude are almost unheard of in modern Toyotas and indeed among most manufacturers apart from the Chinese within the first two years.

Spray WD40 and wipe away gently with a microfiber towel.

If you are mixing oils of the same type from the same manufacturer, there should be no problem. If you have stored the motor oil in a cool, dark place and it has not passed the expiry date, you could use it. However, once the can is opened, moisture gets in and may deteriorate the oil over time. Therefore, you must check it carefully for its consistency. If it is thick and sticky, and has solid or gel-like particles, do not use it. If you see that the additives seem to have separated from the oil, it is not safe to use. You must also check its color. Usable motor oils have a clear appearance and if you notice any milkiness or haziness, that is a sign of water contamination and should not be used.

If you are driving mostly on the expressway or outstation on not very dusty conditions and not crawling a lot in city traffic, you will be able stretch the oil change intervals to 10k km using the same Toyota oil without any issue. The user manual and the sticker under the hood recommends 15k km oil changes anyway although for different conditions. If you are paranoid about changing the brand of oil, better go for a reputed brand of oil such as Mobil, Castrol etc.

I suggest you do some research online before you commit, to see if it is the right product for you. There are some nice articles and videos comparing ceramic coating, paint protection films and waxing. Don't believe the sales talk. These are not invincible. It will protect against swirl marks and slight abrasions and buy some time for you to clean bird droppings before they etch the paint. It will not prevent damage from stone chips, tuktuks and motorcycles scratching your paint when squeezing through. The paint protection films are better at these. Furthermore, if you have to touch up the paint, you will have to buff the ceramic coat away to do the repair and ceramic coaters will not be keen to touch up a single panel later. If you have a very valuable car or a recently restored classic it will be able to justify the cost. For most normal cars used on a daily basis with an owner who has time to wash it regularly according to the proper technique, a good quality wax or paint sealant will do.

Also, the multifunction steering came originally for cars with 6 speakers (including the 2 small ones on the A pillars). If there are no speakers on the A pillars, multifunction steering may have been installed locally.

If you are looking for a 2016/2017 car, you will find only 1L F grade or Jewela cars as the tax to import a 1.3L is prohibitive. However, there are a few 2011/2012 P130 1.3L cars around.

Are you on 92 or 95 RON?

The OP wanted to know whether a delay of around 6 months can affect/damage the car. I just wanted to reassure him.

The car was manufactured in November 2018, I purchased it through USS auctions with 5km on the clock in June 2019. There was some shipping delay and finally took delivery in August 2019.

I don't think there will be any major issues though the situation is not ideal. This kind of delay is common when importing zero milage cars from Japan. When I imported my car, the delay was around 10 months. However, there can be some issues such as flat spots on tires.

Patience. If you want a mint condition E30, you will have to wait until an enthusiast sells one. No guarantee that it will happen within the month or within the year. E30 is a great car but even the latest models are 30 years old. As for any old BMW expect repairs and waiting for parts to arrive but the availability of parts is not too bad especially for the fuel injected ones. The ones with M10 e carburettor engine maybe more difficult to maintain as mechanics who know how to maintain these are hard to find though the engine itself is bullet proof and even used in F1 in the 80's. May not be the ideal first car. More of a project car given the age and time and money required to maintain in good condition.

If the car came with internal TPMS sensors, the sensor can get damaged when you use the temporary tyre repair liquid. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the sensor if this has been attempted.

Not that it's too complex. It's just that sourcing parts will be difficult, people trained to work on these are rare and most of the plastic and rubber bits would have aged and deteriorated/become brittle leading to even a simple repair taking a long time due to delays in sourcing parts and finding skilled labour.

Yes. You should get it replaced soon. You don't want a blowout especially at highway speeds. It's recommended to replace both tyres on an axle rather than just one tyre. What is the tread depth of the other tyre and the year of manufacture? If it's practically new you may be able to get away with just replacing the damaged one but have to be cautious when the tread depth of the old one becomes less than 3mm as the car may spin out of control in wet conditions at speed as the one with less tread depth may loose grip due to aquaplaning.

Your tyres are most probably unidirectional. Just move the front tyres to the rear and rear tyres to the front at every service. Don't switch sides. This will keep the tyre wear even. Otherwise the front tyres will wear out faster. As the tyres are nearly new anyway and the replacement is also an expensive one, I guess it's best to treat them all as equal and carry on with rotation to maximize the lifespan. As the other 3 tyres are not worn much you will not notice any difference. If you are paranoid, take a look at the tires of busses vans and lorries on the road. They will have 4 different brands of varying tread depth at the 4 corners and still manage to survive most of the time!

It's best to replace both tyres on an axle with a good quality cheaper brand. Similar tyres with same tread depth on each axle will not cause any issues in handling under normal circumstances unless you plan to take it to a track day! Rotate tyres as usual to get the maximum life. It's always best to change both tyres on an axle.

Yes. Been there done that. Just follow the menu from steering wheel controls. There are YouTube videos to guide you.

Yes, the language can be changed from the menu without any issue. There are YouTube video's as well for guidance.

It's a pleasure mate. Good choice. CHR is probably the best value for the permit and a much nicer car than the regular Toyotas with a nice interior and great handling. Gives decent gas mileage too as long as you keep the revs down. Happy motoring!

AlloyGators are not recommended for machine polished or diamond cut alloy wheels.

Toyota Lanka uses 0w-20 for the CHR

For most down sized turbo engines the manufacturers recommend 0W-20 oil. It's the same for the CHR as well. As it's the only grade recommended I think it's best to stick to that. For some cars and older cars the the owners manual used to suggest different grades depending on ambient temperature but not for the new CHR or CRV.