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iRage

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Everything posted by iRage

  1. I think its the same one that is getting worked on next to the Trueno. Over to you ?
  2. Since it is a Daihatsu Wake... Here it goes...should be easy.
  3. You do know that in the Wake of all the certification issues the manufacturer has stopped the production and sales of a lot of its models including this one right ? Its been quite an awakening for Osaka Hatsudoki Seizo
  4. Putting a side brake-pad materials, quality of the pads, etc...rate of wear is more dependent on driving style than it is on mileage. If you are heavy on the brakes and constant braker, then, irrespective of the mileage, the pads are going to wear off. Having said that I do have to side with @Hyaenidae on this. It does seem like an awful lot of niggles for a 6 year old Honda. Especially with such a low mileage and what seems to be a cared for car as well. I wonder if the non-1000cc Civics are also having the same level of niggles come up (and I mean actual issues and not the whole "known to", "possibly can" situations which every engine on the planet has but actual things that do happen). I suppose it is a case of "gone are the good old days".
  5. CVT - Proper CVT maintenance. If not maintained properly it has a higher risk of failure. The hitch is these Toyota CVTs were quite frickle so even with proper maintenance one would only extend its life marginally and it is more or less a gamble beyond the 100-150 thousand mileage mark. When knew these units were categorized as non-serviceable units with a 100,000km duty cycle where at 100,000km the oi was to get changed and beyond that if it didn't work just to simply swap out. Needless to say Toyota had to go back on this approach. Right now Toyota recommends CVT fluid changes at 20 to 30 thousand kms. AC compressor - Known to go bad (it had to do with the type of compressor used to ensure better fuel efficiency). Most owners swapped out these compressors for those from older Corollas (121, etc..) so make sure that the work is done properly. Also, once the conversion is done it is known for the car to be less fuel efficient than what it used to be. ABS modulator - Again a problem from the period. So just make sure it works propery. Suspension bushings (rear ones are known to give problems and if not properly replaced there will be a knocking thud noise coming even if the shocks are new/good) Dashboard cracks (this was an issue on almost all mass produced Toyotas of the period..even if the car was in Japan, although if it was in Japan it was replaced under warranty). Engine sludge - Short of regular servicing and lack of proper driving has led these engines to build engine sludge irrespective of the car. For cars like the Axio, Allion, etc..the issue is people were cheap on maintenance, drove the thing at low rpm on short drives prevening the engine from proper heat and cooling cycles. Apart from that it is the usual old car buying stuff. Check the body condition...most have had poor accident repairs (i.e. catloy buckets with thick paint jobs). Get it professionally inspected at the dealer or check cars or both...
  6. There's nothing strange about that. Most low-trim models still have normal keys, as do cars in developing markets. To be honest, for an off-roading/commercial vehicle that is going to get a lot of rough use in rough and tough places, the old-fashioned key would actually be preferable. So it can be for a varied number of reasons : keep costs low, practicality, ruggedness, etc...
  7. Well...if you have the list of things that need to be repaired from the CC report, can't you go and get a quote from the agents for the repairs ? If the issue is with the Hybrid system and the agents do not repair Subaru Hybrid systems then I would say go to a reputed Hybrid specialist and get a quote from them. Since Subaru Hybrids are not that common I doubt anyone will be able to give you a quote at the drop of a hat like for an Aqua or Prius or something.
  8. Well...you never know...maybe it was sensible to do it, especially when they did an inspection every 5k. We do not know the exact circumstances and conditions the previous owner used the car in (remember just because you are driving in traffic does not automatically make it a hard run as well). Also, when they said 10,000kms it could have been a 10,000km average where sometimes it was changed at a 8 or 9 k-ish and sometimes closer or a bit over 10? The thing is..there is no exact science and a hard-fast rule to all this; short of actually doing a sediment analysis and determining if it should be changed or not at exactly every X kms I would say you would probably end at around 7.5k-8k. 5-6k would seem more natural for extreme use cases on a synthetic oil (we are talking about really bad fuel, excessive heat and dust and long high-stress on engine runs sort of use).
  9. Uhh..it could be something like the ABS actuator or something getting activated. In which case it is quite normal (in some newer cars you would even here a hissing sound coming from the car after you have turned it off and walked away from it because of systems like the EVAP system getting depressurized). Sounds/noises are really hard to comment on without actually listening to the sound and trying to trace it to what is creating it. So...it could be something normal as above (which is highly likely) or something totally different.
  10. Again...I would not say its possible nor would I say you can't. Sorry, really not an answer to your question. If your engine is in good health and you do normal low-intensity runs with the engine coming to proper operating temperature, then yes you would increase the possibility of getting closer to 10K. But the reality is that the quality of the fuel, quality of air being induced into the engine, etc... would also affect this. So, although the oil might suggest 10K and you do low intesity, low stress runs, in reality, this would actually reduce. So...it is all very contextual. The reality is that everyone, from the manufacturers to garages to service stations, gives you a standard recommendation because that would be the safest way to go about it. Otherwise, they would have to come up with 1000 different oil change recommendations, one for each of their customers. So, it is best to figure out what is best for your car by actually studying/observing it.
  11. Well....I don't know the condition of your car, but in my Mark X driving from Pelawatte to Bambalapitiya in the thick of traffic; I was comfortable doing 7500-8000km oil change intervals on a synthetic oil. 5000km on synthetic oil might be a bit of an overkill, but then, depending on the condition of the engine, it might be needed. I would say start off with an 8k or so interval, see how the car does. Engine condition : things below can and will effect the condition of the oil: oil burn rate, combustion efficiency [less than optimal burn can contribute to carbon deposits], engine compression [oil might seep into cylinders creating carbon], sludge level, condition of gaskets and oil seals.
  12. Synthetic oils have a use life of about 10,000kms under normal use. Trust me a daily used car in Colombo traffic or a car that just does short runs most the time is not going to qualify as normal use. So even with synthetics you might still have to change it at a shorter interval than 10,000km (under hard use most sythetic oil manufacturers suggest a 7500km change...so it won't be as short as intervals for a normal mineral oil). Again, it depends on your use of the car. If the car is used occasionally and each drive typically is enough for the oil to heat up to operating temperature, then a 10,000km change with an inspection (change if needed) at 5000k is fine. In Japan that is what I do with my cars (even the 25 year old Corolla after switching to synthetic oils). On each car I only do about 300km a month so what gets me most is the shelf life of the oil (synthetic oils have a life span of about 1 year and mineral oils about 6 months...give or take). So oil gets changed once every 10-12 months and gets inspected every 5 to 6 months. Again...it is totally dependant on your use. For the previous owner that schedule might have been perfectly fine and fine for the car. You need to tell us how you plan to use the car so we can have a discussion if a similar schedule would work for you
  13. Yes....but it would be fairly obvious with all kinds of smoke and smells. I wonder how the water lines are. Sorry you have to go through this in your fairly new car. I hope it is getting sorted out. Apart from some of the reasons I cited above, you might also have a case where the oil is actually leaking into the gearbox housing through a worn rear-end crank seal. The oil has to go somewhere...so it either gets burnt, sludged/gel'd up or leaked out.
  14. 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 🤣🤣 Oh..sorry..that was rude... uhh...no...maintaining popup lights is a pain like you have never imagined Actuators, relays...they are all pretty much out of production and have been so for like decades. Popular models like AE86 Truenos, RX7s, etc...have after market reproductions that cost an arm and a leg and the kidneys of your first born and your first grand child. Even then those who cannot be bothered just convert them in to fixed headlamps. When these go bad you are at the mercy of a good electrician/electrical-wizard to sort it out for you using alternative parts. It's cool to say you have pop-up lights, but they are a pain to maintain and lack practicality. As for the other parts....you are going to have a similar problem with whatever old 80s, 90s or older car you get. Even for cars like 80s Corollas, Sunny,etc..body parts are becoming an issue. The exception are cars like the KE72 DX wagons, Lancer wagons, E100 Corollas etc...where they sold them buy ship loads around the planet and have a large aftermarket parts supply. Obviously the rarer (i.e. sold less number of units by the manufacturer) the car is the harder it will be to find these parts (sadly the Astina, Integra fall into this category). Going back to the pop-up light car...normal body parts are a bit easier to come by than the pop-up light as things like door handles, switches would have been used in other models of the period. Body panels..since most are actual metal you need a good tinkering guy to beat it our and fix it properly. Lights will be a hard to come by item. So no...don't expect to walk in to a speciality store or any body shop to find a stock of parts for these cars. You will have to walk, beg, cry, yell, walk more to find these parts.
  15. It was and always is inevitable for those types to take over these platforms. It's partly because being a true car enthusiast in SL is next to impossible now. It costs way too much to do any kind of decent builds or to actually own interesting cars (let alone run them). So with the ever-dwindling enthusiast group it is only natural that the common car users come hoping to find answers on fuel consumption of Vitzies and resale values of Premios and who else would respond to them other than the broker crowd ?
  16. The sad reality is realistically there is no end in sight for the import ban. With an honest and educated society the government would have been able to start allowing limited imports into the country (e.g. X number of vehicles between A- B USD, etc...). However, lets be honest...honest and educated are not adjectives we can use to describe our masses. Our guys (from politicians all the way down to the brokers) are going to cheat and lie in every possible way possible so that also will not work.
  17. Yes...if you take a HiAce...the floor to ceiling height is about 11cms less in the just low. It is mainly because the floor is lifted to keep it flat and not have wheel humps. Also, from the ground (like outside) the floor level is about 11cm higher in the just low than the normal van.
  18. Yes...this was also the time (one of many) that Hybrid euro luxury brands were cheaper than a petrol Camry
  19. ...and interestingly quite a few of them are UK spec.
  20. Even if you look at the ID plate you are not going ot know what it is as I am pretty sure you do not know transmission models and codes for Nissans. Just get the car inspected professionally, e.g. car ch**ks, they can tell you if it has been converted. But it is very unlikely that a MANUAL was converted to an AUTOMATIC. These cars were brought down during a time Sri Lankans were afraid of automatics. So while it was common to convert automatic cars in to manual, it was unheard of converting a manual in to automatic. Especially to such a high finish.
  21. The SL models were typically Thailand based models. If you send me the VIN I can check on some EPCs I have access to.
  22. Well..it is pretty much a Sunny B12 <i.e. a trad sunny>. The difference is the body in the rear which means rear lights, glasses, etc..are different. Engine and interior and (forward) exterior components are the same. The California is a bit rare so finding the rear lights, etc.. might be a bit hard if you ever need to replace them. As for whether its an original Auto...depending on the market and trim level the car came with either a 4speed or 5 speed manual or a 3 speed automatic. The only way to say if it is a factory installed automatic is by looking at the ID plate.. It has the transmission model and from that you can figure out whether it is an auto or manual. Things like mismatching interior trim around the gear lever, holes for clutch pedals, etc..can always be rectified if one was willing to invest enough time, money and care) By the looks of it...it seems like it is stock automatic from the factory. It is either that or someone did a REALLY REALLY good conversion job <which most Sri Lankans don't do for cars like this>.
  23. When are you going to realize that the only chics you are going pick with cars like these are dudes with wigs ? <If you've seen the movie you will understand the reference > Now..a blinged out Akua, Pirius (GSpots is better) or a Benz...that is a different story.
  24. Not surprising that these are hard to find. They are hard to find even in Japan as they didn't get sold in large numbers like sporty Corollas and Subarus and stuff. In fact even in Japan its come to a point where parts like these are more easily found in countries like Australia and Thailand. But keep an eye out...strange things pop-up now and then. Have you looked in to sourcing it from abroad ?
  25. I believe most of these cars are ones where the registration number had to change, e.g. old DPL, military, etc..number plated cars needing re-registration. I believe at some point this also applied to petrol to diesel conversions (as the number had to change from numbers like 32/64/etc... to a petrol number).
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