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Everything posted by iRage

  1. iRage

    Corolla 141 rpm problem. NEED HELP!

    Where and who tuned your engine and who did the calibration ? Are you saying that the idle rpm was 1500-2000 after you tuned it up and then a few days after the tune up it became normal ? If this is the case the first problem could be because the ECU was reset and it was "learning"
  2. No..not an oil leak..an oil seepage..like when you look at the lower end do you see slight dampness and gunk built over....
  3. Okay....so that leaves that out...however...when the car is idling and you rev it..it does come up ? Next issue could be the crank bearings...by the way...I suppose you do not see any significant loss in oil..but if you could take a look at the bottom of the engine see if you can spot any oil seepage from either end...
  4. Suspension TYPE is the same....the dampening...i.e. how stiff or soft it is would be slightly different. There might be slight differences in the ECS as well...
  5. iRage

    ## Post Whoring - Part 3 ##

    What the heck is that sunroof ? Is it a sticker just pasted there ? Also..he seems to be going around with his own parking sign
  6. If I am not mistaken...the language can be changed in the Japanese variant. Most Japanese manufacturers are moving towards having global models where all the components are the same when and where possible.
  7. and you are sure it is a pre-ignition sort of knock ? what is the oil you use ? is it just when you have a load in the car ? or does it come up even if you leave the car idling for a while (letting the engine heat up to op temp) and then reving to 1500-2000 ?
  8. Depends on the painter and how well the color has been matched. With colors like pearl white will always have a 1% like difference (if painted and matched by skilled professional) in color which only 0.01% of car enthusiasts will notice. Since you are painting the entire back door almost everyone will not notice a color difference if you get it properly matched. What will make the painting obvious is the paint is laid down heavy and there is a strong orange peel or if the panel gets filled up with putty and overspray .
  9. If you love your engine..yes. Even the maka baases I know of use a torque wrench for that.....because 1. The tightening needs to be balanced...so the entire head needs to have a consistent level of tightening from one side to the other and back and forth. 2. You do not want the head to be over tight..that is bad as it creates unnecessary pressure. You do not want it to be loose either.
  10. iRage


    What Davy said.... The Honda systems are pretty tightly integrated... and extremely sensitive. So even if there is one thing that is having an issue all the other systems connected to it will also get in to panic mode. Sometimes it can be something as simple as the Hybrid battery being worn out or loss of contact with the auxiliary (the 12v) battery. The warnings are telling you that the systems are not working so be careful and take it to the dealership. It does not say it is necessarily broken, so what is broken can be something completely unrelated. When you drive does the Eco/EV light still come on (which is supposed to come on when the Hybrid system engages). Does the Hybrid system engage ? According to some Japanese forums a common issue for the above seems to be the Hybrid system battery having charging issues (and in a few cases the 12v battery having contact issues).....where the VSA is concerned the system is telling that the gasoline engine is always running to try keep the hybrid battery charging so the power might not cut off when taking bends, etc...Same with hill start...because the power from the Hybrid system is needed to stop the roll back..if the hybrid system is not working..it is warning that the car may roll back...with braking you are supposed to take care because..again...because the gasoline engine is constantly running and the HV system does not kick in to assist with slowing down, the braking effect might get reduced. The E-parking brake gives an error in case the brakes are not fully disengaged because of power issues. So DO NOT panic and think doom and gloom. Go get it scanned and take it a step at a time. I think it would quite helpful and benefit the community if you can let us know what the scans told you and what was done to fix it.
  11. It says body rasu kizu...I am not entirely sure..but rasu actually means lath..to describe something small and soft like a hair line fracture....so I suppose it means a hairline like scratch by "kissing" as in gently rubbing something. Well..the tires do get those cracks by just sitting there...but what do you mean by hairline cracks on the the edge ? Are they surface cracks slightly above the walls ? The Corolla wagon sits in one place from Winter to spring and summer...etc...for weeks but does not get any of those cracks. The only time I got cracks was my mother's RAV4 in Japan as it did not get used for 3-4 months at a time. SO I do not buy the whole change in weather story....the tires are NOT THAT weak. You car is a 2017 car. The last owner in Japan probably traded it in for a different car as the shaken inspection was due. My guess is that the car was parked in one place for a long periods of time without being used for months at a time. So when it did get used it probably was a decent amount (kind of like my mom's RAV4). Yes..it is common for cars in Japan to have low mileages but what usually happens is that the car gets driven 20 or 30 km on average per week (so the car does not get parked for long period at a stretch).
  12. Both are normal.... Sometimes the auction period would have elapsed...the records are kept online/public only for X months...it also depends on how the car was purchased....if the car was sent to auction but sold pre-auction then the records get delayed in putting on or sometimes it does not even get entered. Those marks are typical in any car. It is used to cover up rivets, weld points,etc...to protect it from rusting out. I do now know where those points are on a CHR. I would say...just take it for an actual inspection locally. Doesn't hurt. Then irrespective of what the documents say or if you are able to get them verified or not...you know what the car is as it stands in front of you. Consider this hypothetical scenario : Some one imports a legitimate car...all documents come clean...however, the car is used locally without registration for a few months..has a few fender benders (or even a full accident) and gets fixed up. How will you know ? This is hypothetical..but considering the nuber of unregistered cars are actually held in stock and the number of garage plated cars running around..it is a distinct possibility.
  13. Well..the CHR being a Toyota will have a better demand than the Kia just because it is a Toyota. Are you looking at an AWD or 2WD ? Either way..the vehicle is pretty nice to drive and feels rather plush for its category. Get the auction sheets verified, the JAAI sheets verified. But most of all take it to a place like car checks or the agents and get it inspected thoroughly. This is one thing I like about car checks...they are extremely asinine about things that it is unreasonable (eg...they will put a black mark on a 10 year old car for having a wiper blade worn out...or indicate a dent on the floor..) it is unreasonable but at least you get to know what is there and not there in the car so you can decided you want to take the risk or not. The agent would do the same but a little bit more relaxed..although I think the agent is more thorough on the mechanical aspect of things. Yes..the inspection costs..but spending 3K-8K to secure your 6.2mil investment I believe is wise.
  14. iRage

    141,Belta,Yaris or Camry (2007 to 2011 models)

    Well..some of the common issues that the 141 has is the dashboard getting all sticky and cracking...but by now almost all have had that replaced. It was something common with Toyotas of the era...again..then Toyota's of the era do have a tendency to have issues with the AC compressor (but then again..those too would have been resolved). Most of these issues are not exactly defects but components that are engineered in a way to not suit the local conditions. Pretty much all cars, especially used ones, will have some sort of issue. No one in this world ahs made an indestructible, 100% issue free car.
  15. iRage

    Yaris 2020 hatchback

    Well...I am pretty sure you are not going to get any mechanical faults in the Yaris 2020. The core of most components ahve been used in other Toyota models (especially recent releases and some from even older models). I was just saying..if you bust a light lens or something you will have to wait to get the parts flown in and will be expensive too. As for how to fix the car...again....notihng ground breakingly different from any other car (atleast the variant you are looking at). These are entry level hatchbacks so there is nothing overly compliated in them (unlike the GR-4 or something). The only complicated thing you would get on it are the safety features which again come with all other Japanese cars too. Yes...there are lots of fake used cars. But there are some good ones too. So you just have to look for them.
  16. You need to accept the fact that ALL these cars are a decade or more old..which means it will have many components that are well used...some would have reached its end of life and would have been replaced, some would be nearing its end of life and would require replacing or some will have some decent life left in it. This is why there are pre-emptive maintenance work schedules prescribed by the manufacturer. Vehicles depreciate on the second fact...so no matter what car you buy you will have to under go a maintenance work. If you want a car you can just pump and drive...then go for a brand new car (even then you never know). Your concern should be if who ever used the car and repaired it would have done so properly..proper parts, done on time and by proper people. If those are done properly then your burden is minimized. Now..some car designs have faults (but those would have been rectified by now...hopefully properly). Some cars have designs that are not suited for local conditions (eg. DCTs in SL and the AC compressors in Allions/Premios). These are not fualts...these are things that may or may not pop-up depending on the way the car is used. So are there many cases of it ? I don't know. Is it a design fault ? I have not heard of any recalls or issues of it in Japan...so I do not know...maybe in SL it is common. A failure being common should not be something to kee you away from a car. You just need to check if you are willing to spend on it...and when you spend on it if you will actually get enough use from the repair you did (for eg. if you replace the AC compressor at 55K is it going ot fail every 6-12 months ? Or will it last for 2 years ? How long will you use the car for and how many times will you ahve to replace it ?)
  17. iRage

    Yaris 2020 hatchback

    well..10K means you have driven for pretty much 1 year How good of a driver are you ? Any fender benders or significant accidents ? If you are a safe driver... Yes..in case you break stuff it will be costly to fix (but then that is what insurance is for as well) but as long as you are confident it does not mean that the cost and difficulty of finding parts for a brand new car should keep you away from it. Once you have it for a few weeks you will be used to it and things will be fine. You will ahv the same anxity no matter what you buy. Even the Yaris you will find parts for it..it is jsut that you will have to wait for awhile. If you are a bad driver....just go for a used car and get some experience...then buy an expensive car.
  18. iRage

    141,Belta,Yaris or Camry (2007 to 2011 models)

    Be more specific of what you want. The Yaris/Belta are entry level small sedans, the 141 is a sub-compact sedan, and the Camry is a compact sedan. The Yaris/Belta feels cheap and has less bells and whistles, the 141 will feel a little better than the Yaris/Belta and have a few more bells and whistles (depending on the grade you buy) and the Camry will feel a lot better than the other cars on that list. So which is the best determines on your requirements. None of these cars have any significant defects. You jsut need to make sure they are properly maintained (look for service records, etc..) which includes changing CVT fluid. So look out for the CVT transmission. Go get it inspected. I hink you will find more Camrys that are in better condition than the Yaris/Belta and 141. The Yaris/Belta and 141 were popular cas amongst budget users and they do not maintain their cars properly. Then just before selling it they would do things like tamper the mileages and then make the car look shiny. So..no matter what you get..get it inspected.
  19. iRage

    Importing a Brand New vehicle from UK

    but....if a grey import can be registered as "brand new" that does not mean that the agent records are going to be there. Seriously doubt any proper/strict verification of the actual condition of the car is being done when they do it..so the "Brand New" record on a grey import is just a lost cause because we do not know how trustworthy the importer is. Now..if the book says Brand New and that is accompanied with the agent's actual invoice, and delivery notes...then that is a different story. But this paying extra to get Brand New put on your grey import does nothing except create a false sense of security. But then..at the end of the day..it is the condition at hand that matters.
  20. iRage

    Yaris 2020 hatchback

    By Yaris 2020 I am guessing you mean the latest model. It is wonderful. Feels nice and well built. The 1000cc engine in the past model has been an extreme disappointment. Toyota says the new Yaris' 1000cc has been improved a lot but that simply cannot be determined to be true or not until we see the car on the road (it still has not been delivered to customers). Now....5.5 mil on a newly released car is a lot of money. Body parts are going to be expensive. How experienced of a driver are you ? If you are a new driver/relatively/inexperienced; then you are going ot put some dings in a shiny new expensive car and fixing it can get pricey. So if this is the case..but a used one..get some experience behind you..and then go for the new Yaris once the car has hit our markets here and we know what the car is actually like (the 1000cc).
  21. Well....you are disregarding the Mazda base don one particular experience. If the error was not detectable why do you think it is the ar ? It could very well be that the car was taken to a bad mechanic/s who had no idea what they are doing. Besides....the N16 is not a Bluebird...it is a Bluebird Sylphy which is a Sunny...and there are plenty of those cars that have much more issues than the Axela/Mazda 3. Yes..the Cerato rdes well...but the plastics are not that nice and after sometime it really does not weather well and just looks old. In countries like the US it did well because they gave rather aggressively extensive warranties.
  22. What is wrong with a 2018 model for 2020 ? The 2020 model is the same as the 2018 model right ? No significant tech updates or a model change ? What are the significant repairs you are worried of with a Demio ? Cars depreciate for a reason....so if you find a well maintained example and you do the required preemptive maintenance work with the money you save from your purchase...then I cannot see what the doom and gloom is. There are plenty of people in the country who buy well taken care of used cars and do not have doom and gloom. Heck.there are plenty of people who buy crappy, dressed up used cars and do not have doom and gloom So..if a Demio is what you want...then go look for a good unit and buy it and do the pre-emptive repairs you should do irrespective of what used car you buy. Secondly....there should be Mazda 2 sedans (and maybe a few hatches) that were agent imported and maintained.
  23. The Civic and the Lancer does stand out as he better option in your list. The Corolla is a pretty good car but most of them are really badly used/maintained. SO you won't be able to find a good Corolla. Some of the Civics have gone through rcier boys but still good examples are available, especially those that have been in the hands of enthusiasts. I cannot see why the Mazda 3/Axela is a no. They are pretty good cars and most are in pretty good shape too. I don't think you have verifiable evidence that the Mazda 3/Axela is actually bad..but just hear-say. Stories like parts not available, etc... If you are okay going for a Yaris/Vios I cannot see why you are saying no for a Belta. The Belta is a newer version of the Yaris/Vios you are looking at with the same platform with some improvements. Being an entry level sedan it is not as nice as the Civic, Lancer or the Corolla. I do not think the Korenas of that era has aged well. So I would not comment on their suitability. Have you thought of a Corona or Carina (T200 series) ?
  24. iRage

    Daily Driving a B211

    Hmmm...I think something like a Lancer Box would have a few more "better" creature comforts than a B211 and a more refined ride too. Perhaps even a B310 ? How old are you looking at ? Even a Corolla E80 is an old car. Same with a Toyota Carina A60 or a Corona T140... Mechanically....these cars are pretty simple. However most of the components are really old and have passed their use-life and have been replaced a few times. So if you want to run the car daily without having to run to the garage often..you will have to invest in fixing up the engine with proper parts/components. Sadly you will not find original manufacturer parts so you will have to use good OEM parts (one problem is a lot of people fix these cars with cheap OEM parts). Depending on the car..sometimes you will have to come up with ingenious ways to fix it because the parts are simply not there. Then there is the electricals...you should be prepared to fix that up. Old cables, fuses, fuse boxes, relays, etc... When you are buying it...check out for the body....rust is an enemy to these old cars. Also, most would have had really bad fix-up jobs (filled with putty and poor tinkering work). So this can give you problems (rust coming up...poor body work falling apart). People who can do a good tinkering job are disappearing but still around. The issue you will face with this is finidng parts like body beadings or lights and stuff.
  25. iRage

    ## Post Whoring - Part 3 ##

    Here is the thing I have with the Supra (and I am a Toyota fan). The Supra was hype created by the fan boys than what the car actually is. The Supra has never been Toyota's halo car which the fanboys make it out to be. The Supra has been a GT car that was produced with components of other cars. Even the 2JZ engine was never built specifically for the Supra. It was built for large sedans like the Aristo and the Crown and the 2JZ_GTE was developed and first put in the Aristo for a JTCC spec car and its homologation models. As for the engine...well you drive a 2JZ-GTE you do fall in love with it. It is smooth and very responsive. Only a very few engines come close to that..and the closest is definitely the RB26DETT. What puts the 2JZ ahead of the RB and the others is that its tuning potential...even with a stock block people are pushing out nearly 1000hp. Cannot think of any other engines out there that can do that...even from the likes of BMW. But that Supra..yeah..over priced...there have been many other Supras in much better shape and much better spec gone for far less. Also, according to some FB group posts the same car was advertised a few years ago for less than 1/4th that price...