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iRage

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Everything posted by iRage

  1. iRage

    Some Concerns?

    A GP5 is a GP5 because it is Hybrid ! There are no Non-Hybrid GP5s . If you come across a GP5 (where the Vehicle ID plate/chassis # says GP5 and it has a petrol engine...walk away. I only say this because our Sri Lankans could very well yank out the Hybrid system and do some weird stuff to make the car run on petrol (seen a few 2nd and 1st Gen Prius with gasoline conversions. GK3 = 1.3 Gasoline FF GK4 = 1.3 Gasoline AWD GK5 = 1.5 Gasoline FF GK6 -= 1.5 Gasolike AWD
  2. You are hardly going to find any average (gasoline) export model cars that come directly from Japan. Almost all the common models like the Corolla, Yaris, etc...are going to come from Thailand. Only the high-end vehicles would be coming from Japan (Land Cruisers, Crowns, Priuses, etc...), even the Camry came from Japan for a little while until the Thai, Vietnamese, etc...plants got re-tooled. As for the ECU programmings...yes...it could be different..depends on the car. Even though the car might be the same it would be configured to meet regulatory requirements of the country/region it is being sold in. As a result, the ECU might be programmed slightly differently.
  3. iRage

    New toyota yaris ATIV

    If you want something fun...look at something like the Vitz/Aqua GR Sport or Vitz GR Sport GR....a certain doc who imports cars and does conversions sold one and at the time it was somewhere around your budget...but might be pricier now...but check...
  4. iRage

    Some Concerns?

    Can we (I) know the reasons you took off the Swift and Vitz as possible candidates ?
  5. iRage

    CHR G-T vs. S-T

    That is a type of Modellista dressup kit.The other one is called Elegant Ice kit (I personally prefer that)..follow this link to see what it comes with : https://www.modellista.co.jp/en/product/c-hr/boostimpulse/ I can understand people going for it in Japan just for looks...but considering the import tax structure (and the car salesmen's loving service fees) the additional cost of the kit adds up to being rather hefty..so you have to wonder if it is worth it.
  6. Check your private messages
  7. iRage

    Some Concerns?

    1. It only means that the car was serviced and/or repaired by the agent. On one hand the assumption is that the agent has qualified technicians who are familiar with the model and have been trained to properly service and repair these cars to meet manufacturers' specifications. On the other hand..assuming that an agent maintained car is in good condition is just an assumption..not a guarantee. Agents do service bad conditioned cars....seen plenty of them..especially with popular Toyota, Nissan models. Agents give advice and recommendations on repairs that the vehicle needs that they observed during servicing. However, there is no guarantee that the repair was ever done by the agent (the guy could have just done the repair at a makabaas garage with cheap parts). These recommendations do not get logged (99% of the time) unless it is part of a requested inspection and is usually in the form of a service advisory in form of a quotation.The quotation does not necessarily get logged against the vehicles service history and show up by default. If searched within the system there might be a link to an issued quotation. Also sometimes its just a verbal advisory...(eg. in my Mark X the "workshop manager like guy" said the technician noted that brake pads will need to be replaced the next time. I got my wife to buy a set of pads from Japan...send it down...and fixed it myself...no record what so ever at the agent or the reputed third party garage that maintained my car) The plus point is that you can go and check the records with the agent and see if the things like mileages are accurate and if the services had been done on time and if the manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedules had been followed. So agent maintained or not...get the vehicle inspected by professionals 2. The Hybrids are plagued as people are scared of the DCT issue topped with the fact that people are aware of Hybrid system fixes (battery, etc..) that would be needed with time. The gasoline variants do not have the DCT issue as they do not have a DCT. 3. Is there an election coming around anytime soon ? Apart from that, apparently there are some good fortune tellers who do a good job in predicting political behaviorisms.
  8. It would be even more exciting if OP or someone who owns a Vitz actually do all this upgrades and report back Yes ! So lets stop scaring the bugger like some posts have
  9. iRage

    CHR

    The AWD has about 150mm of ground clearance and the 2WD about 140mm. The AWD system is an updated version of Toyota's Dynamic Torque Control AWD. Basically the torque gets sent up to 10% to the rear under normal conditions. On more challenging terrain the torque can go up to 20 or 25 % or something (not sure about this), and typically happens when the vehicle detects excessive wheel spin in the front (as if it is on extremely icy roads or slippery mountain terrain). There are three onditions under which Toyota's system diverts torque to the back a. Acceleration from standstill b. Cornering c. Front wheel slippage The system originated with the Active Torque Control system in the mid 2000s with models like the A30 series RAV4, Highlander, etc.... Overall, it was pretty decent albeit the system performed a lot better with VSC under cornering conditions. The ATC system has a rear diff which has an electro magnetic coupling mechanism which engaged and disengaged when wheel spin reached certain threshholds. The torque that was sent was step wise (at each threshold it would send X% of torque to the rear, which is also the reason why it didn''t work well with cornering and barely did work in cornering) .Then they upgraded it to Dynamic Torque Control system around 2012ish...where they stuck an ECU in front of the EM coupler. The system would dynamically change the level of torque being sent (they did this to improve performance as opposed to keep the car moving on a slippery surface). This sucked !!! Like really sucked. Now they have finally fixed the software and is a lot better.
  10. iRage

    Side Mirror Theft Toyota Premio,Ward Place

    Just a long shot...are there any street vendors where the car is parked ? or a security guard in a near y building who has line of sight to the car ? You might want to befriend one of them...worked for me when I had to park the car on Marine drive and walk down Melbourne Ave to the office. Just bought the security guard drinks and chocolates and was nice to the guy and he considered my car ├Ąpe mahaththaya ge kar eka"" Might work...
  11. 1. There has not been a RS since mid 2017 or something. So you are not going to find unregistered RSes anywhere. Only chance is a used one. The RS was replaced by the GR Sport. 2. Considering that the RS (now GR Sport) only comes in a 1.5L pure gasoline or Hybrid variants, it is quite expensive and no one brings them down. However...there is one GR Sport that i know of in SL There might be more.... 3. The easiest would be to find the GR Sport parts...new ones are rather expensive....you can try finding used parts off of Yahoo Auc Japan but that will require sometime and money. 4. There are plenty of OEM parts that work for it...so go for the known OEM parts...there are some decent brands with local agents and they are rather cost effective too. 5. Yes to what Davy said...it is just a standard brace.... 6. Right now....get the front upper one and then the rear lower one. Later on once you have gone though the items you might want to upgrade the lower front. On a side note....its really exciting to have a proper thread on AL after a long long time instead of the usual fuel efficiency, what fist my budget, help me with my permit threads
  12. yes but no...strut bars are reasonable in price....wheels if used can be reasonable too...then if you go with lowering/sport springs then it would be possible (assuming he doesn't lower it to an extent that he will need short stroke dampers)
  13. Yes....the Vitz changes quite a lot with suspension upgrades...which is exactly what Toyota does to make the GR Sport and the GR Sport GR to improve handling (granted they also have a few more extra welds). But the other issue is 90% of the Vitzes in SL are the 1L variants...that engine is an old dog that has been groomed...and re-groomed until its fur has fallen off. Yes...a Vitz stock will have a lot of body roll and I suppose it can't get through a corner at 60 without body roll (its surprising that the 1L engine can keep the car moving at 60kmph)...eliminate the body roll...put some braces on..lower the car a bit....then put some wider wheels to increase the track width. Granted this would also mean the slushy ride would also be gone
  14. iRage

    ## Post Whoring - Part 3 ##

    The LC70s are very old school whilst the other Land Cruisers have gotten a bit gimmicky with its 4WD system. Granted the base and outdoorsy versions Toyota specs out and sells the UN and NGOs and in markets like Africa still have the old fashioned 4WD systems. THe LC70 on hard terrain feels...well...still feels like a 80s/90s off roader. Perhaps the only difference is that the interior feels a bit ore civilized in its upholstery padding. The steering has an old fashioned "circulating ball system....at low speeds it is heavy and feels like you are steering a bloody boat (like an old fashioned jeep)..but you put it off road it kind of all works well together..
  15. Its very chuckable..you put it in to a corner the frame (rear end) just turns in nicely and then wants to straighten up quite well. So it has a nimbly feel to it. Whilst the body is willing to do all this dancing the suspension just simply breaks it lose. Toyotas for the most part have always been like this...which is why the "sporty" grades feel so much more different than the base/normal grades.
  16. well....it depends on the wheels you actually get...if you get 14 allows that are 6"wide (165mm) then yes you can use the current tires. If you get a wider alloy wheel....then depending on the width you might be able to use the tire (tires can be mounted on to a wheel within a small variance of width of the wheel). If you go for a larger wheel, say 15"then you will not be able to use the tires. For both of you...you can either wait till the current tires wear out (which can be a long wait depending on how much your tires have been used and how much you use the car for); or you can take your existing wheels and sell it off (you might not get a good price for it..but you will get something)
  17. The reality is...the Aqua and Vitz (and to a certain extent the Axio..well a little bit) has a very lively chassis/frame and you do feel like shoving it in to the corners. Only thins is the suspension is way too soft and the steering is way too light that you have no sense of feeling or control; yet the steering is quite direct, albeit a bit delayed (which you feel doing a slalom run Yes a good JDM used set will cost you 35K at least plus the cost of tires. So he should be able to do the wheels and the braces with his 150K budget, and even good lowering springs if he goes that route (used TRD set costs about 8000yen.
  18. but is there much choice in terms of a 4 pot that i decent to drive as it is in the same budget range ? unless one goes used....
  19. What you say has validity...but your reasoning for compromise of sfety and performance applies only when you do modifications pointlessly and aimlessly like a majority of Sri Lanka's so called car fans who are ricers. Yes..in stock form the car is configured to be safe and economical to the best of its ability. However, NOT optimally. The car in stock form is configured to meet the regulatory and consumer requirements in the best possible way. This means the manufacturer has to balance all performance and functional aspects of the vehicle. This is coupled with the fact that the components used are components have the minimal specifications that will meet the given requirements (i.e. the above balance); after all no one will buy an over engineered car because it would be too expensive. So looking at it...this way....in stock form cars like the Vitz, Fit, etc, have significant body roll and this contributes to under-steering and can be dangerous..can the manufacturers drastically reduce body roll ? Yes...they can and in special models they have ! But the stock Vitz and Fit still has the softer, body-rolling suspension because it gives the best between comfort, performance and price. Adding strut braces will improve handling/steering and will have NO compromise of safety; tests have shown that it will drastically reduce the chances of a roll-over in an emergency maneauver. Does Toyota had strut bars to the Vitz ? No..only on the higher grade models.Why ? Original strut bars which are TRD or CUSCO adds 30,000-50,000yen to the price tag of the car. Considering the type of people buying the low-end Vitz and what the car is used for, putting that extra 30K-50K to the price tag is not worth it because a lot of buyers will get turned off by the price. These cars have appalling braking distances and the type of brakes they have are susceptible to heat fade making the car dangerous if you drive and brake constantly on curvy roads. Can you improve this ? Yes....and Toyota has with special models with better ventilated brakes, etc.... Out in the market there are plenty of performance and upgrade parts made by third parties that are far better than the stock parts. Manufacturers themselves use these parts for special models. They do not put them on standard models because although it improves the performance it compromises on the customers' requirements of cars like the Vitz which are budget friendly city vehicle (thus breaking the balance I mentioned earlier). We Sri lankans have this stupid mentality that stock parts are the best (in reality even the manufacturers do not make these parts, they buy it from other manufacturers). So upgrading the vehicle with these proper parts is a value addition. In Sri Lanka the issue is 90% of the people "modify" their cars with sub-standard Chinese parts that are untested ripoffs. Then there is the actual modification itself. When a proper car enthusiast does a proper modification, it is a carefully planned project that will be done with a lot of research so that it will not compromise the safety and performance of the vehicle. Then the modifications themselves are done with people who actually are skilled and know what they are doing. These modifications will improve many aspects of the car. Granted it will compromise things like fuel economy, ride softness, etc...slightly; but then those who do proper modifications do so because for them improving certain other areas of the car whilst reducing fuel economy and ride softness is acceptable (as long as the car's safety and functionality is not compromised). Now..the issue in Sri Lanka....90% of the modifiers are ricers...they just stick things on the car just so that it looks "patta". To make it worst they use cheap parts (for example cheap Chinese "allow" wheels that break in to pieces if it hits a curb at 40kmph). Then there is the senseless and unplanned fitment of random parts and modifying existing parts, look at the beat cans..what the hell do they do ? NOTHING except piss everyone off...but our ricer boys get their panties wet over these. Then they go and make stupid changes like cutting the original springs to lower the car (dangerous as it gets) which completely changes the telemetry of the steering and the balance of the car. Then they go and add various things like huge spoilers without thinking of how it effects the car (the added weight of the plastic they stick on and what kind of lift/drag it creates. Lets not forget...we live in a country where we take a car that has crashed and flattened to a pancake; fix it up and then proudly use it like we hit the freaking jackpot. Bottom line is....if you do modifications/upgrades like the ricers in SL do..yes you spoil the car. You might as well throw the car in to a junk yard. But, if you do a proper planned modification with proper parts, you will not compromise the safety of the car nor its intended functionality (manufactures themselves do it and manufacturers sponsor popular third parties to do them as well). You will change some of its attributes like kmpl; but you will gain something else in return and will be a value addition.
  20. Here is some motivation: Story is here : https://www.craft-web.co.jp/blogs/suzuka/17_11/ Another mod with stock like wheels on Modelista low down springs Stock vs low down : https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/255681/blog/39252747/ Another: another one (might be too aggressive for you in SL) https://cartune.me/notes/wRu8bXXWVp https://cartune.me/notes/Pqo6rJRzHW https://cartune.me/notes/p1xcQjURFr https://cartune.me/notes/pZ4jlbnqWO
  21. The best way to go about it is to lay out a plan that is correlated with your budget availability...see what you can afford at what point in time and then see what would actually give you more function than form (eg. wheels would be form, suspension would be function). So you might want to start by getting the braces....it would really tie the car down (especially the rear end) then perhaps go with the wheels....and then )...then go for the coil-overs/springs (some like to go with the shocks first then the wheels. You can get used/refurbed TEINs etc...from Japan at a decent price..or go for something like D2 or GEKHO which have local agents). As for the comment about fuel efficiency...well...it can go either way....but most likely it might go down a bit...yes you do have a lighter wheel but now you have a larger foot print on all four wheels with a better grip... So basically your list would have the following - Strut braces - Wheels - Coilovers / Springs (if you go with springs you probably could afford to buy them with the braces...) - Brakes (better ventilated disks and pads) - Front splitter/rear spoiler - Swap aiRintake - Swap exhaust <becareful about this one...our cops have no idea what they are doing and harass people for this>
  22. iRage

    ## Post Whoring - Part 3 ##

    Well..not in SL because 90% of the people who can afford them buy it for show-off or to soften their tushies....LCs going off road is quite common in Australia, South Africa, Tanzania and Malawi.....also, the UN takes these things on harsh terrains every minute Those mods are pretty sweet though.
  23. Yes...take progressive steps... 150K...hmmm...that would get you certain brands of coil overs and MAYBE A strut bar as well (might be hard to pull off all upper and lower ones...) Wheels...do not go for 90% of the Chinese ones around. Go for a decent licensed reproduction or used branded wheels. Only hitch is you will have buy tires as well and that might put you over the 150K amount if you decide to go with the wheels first. So perhaps start with just the strut bars ? Once you get done with those...you might want to start adding things like strengthening braces and bars for the body.....you get door lock jams, fender strengthening frames, etc....you can even go to the extent of putting performance focused engine mounts, polyurethane bush kits, etc....but I think those would be over kill, especially considering the cost. This is a personal belief....many people would disagree with me on this....once you upgrade your suspension...think about upgrading your brakes as well. With the better suspension you will be inspired to brake later and harder and good brakes would be nice. Some would say not necessary because you are not increasing engine power...but my view is its not always about power. You brake later and harder you need brakes that will not fade with heat and will grab properly. So think about some good ventilated disks and some decent pads for the front. With the rear...well..not much you can do with drums...although some manufacturers do have performance inspired shoes for drum brakes.
  24. Well...how deep are your pockets ? 1. You might want to start off by putting on some strut bars (upper and lower). You get decent after market ones at a reasonable price as well as more expensive ones like Cusco, TRD, etc... 2. Coilovers would be an added benefit...if not there are lowering springs. Either way..go for decent brands. 3. You might want a wider wheel with tires with a lower profile. Stock wheels I believe are 14" with a width of 6" ? You might want to go with what the GR Sport and GR variants have which is 16" or 15" that is 7-7.5 inches in width. Granted your fuel economy will suffer as your engine will slightly work harder to get the car rolling. 4. If you want you can go with a air intake and exhaust upgrade and let it breath a little better, but getting a proper system will not be worth the money for the performance gain ....
  25. iRage

    ## Post Whoring - Part 3 ##

    Hmmm....never gone to Kandy in the Mark X....so no idea....but on open roads it was pretty efficient. Did a run to Sigiriya a few times plus Galle to Hambathota on normal roads and fuel efficiency was pretty much the same as doing the Galle highway (within the same range...so not horrifically bad.) In fact on work trips everyone preferred to take the Mark X because it was a lot more comfier and as efficient as everyone else's X-Trails and Lancer EXs and Allions
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