iRage

Aha....Ford's first "world car"...I believe the name is a play on the Latin word for word...Mundus. It was only a few weeks ago that I learnt that Ford still sold it in China (in sedan form too) whilst the rest of the world got it scrapped and replaced by crossovers. It's quite a smart-looking car, too...I suppose the world car is now a China car. So does that make it the Sinaedeo now? I think the Mondeo's appeal dropped once it became bland because Ford just started making it a fleet car.

Well...I suppose with the restricted imports and popularity of the 2C engine and the fact that these engines are becoming harder to find as time goes by, it is no surprise. If you cannot find one locally there always is the option of getting one brought down for yourself. Check your DM.

Well...have you noticed a drop ? If so was this before or after the overhaul ? When was the overhaul done ? As matroska asked, what fuel figures are you expecting ? What was the fuel figure you were getting and what are you getting now ? What exactly is your car ? What engine does it have ? What is the transmission ? Changing wheel size can affect fuel consumption but it is quite small. Again, we won't know what the drop in fuel efficiency in your car is to say if its due to the wheel change or not. Apart from the sensors going bad...everything from the fuel pump to the fuel lines to the EVAP system to the transmission to the brakes to the condition of the tires/wheels all effect fuel efficiency. So there is no way to say anything.

@fiat fan can you DM me the ID info ? I will try to see if I can get it checked out at a dealer.　Is this a P25V or P25W ？　The DX-DT didn't come in P25W <I am only 80% certain on that though> Yeah...everyone I know who has these things have been complaining about the whole bull-bar issue. Yes those additions can be included in the CR by showing that it is an original piece of equipment the car came with (helps if you had order sheets when new and catalogs, etc...). However, in most countries, it doesn't matter whether it is original equipment or not. If it doesn't meet new road regulations it needs to be taken off. In SL these things are never clear. So...trying to get it included in the CR can go either way for you.

You should get the old-school Japanese decals that have totally random words put together You know...the ones that don't mean anything but in a strange way says something. 👍

From the net. I am in SL and the catalogs are in JPN. So don't have access to it 😕

Well...the Civic of the time had the typical Honda issues typical for that time. So yes...it would have had little problems like electrical niggles, etc... people say go for the 2004 because in September 2003 the ES got a facelift. Typically, when a facelift happens, manufacturers also do technical upgrades (this is why when c completely new-platform based car is released one should wait a bit before jumping in and buying one). So Honda would have updated some of the car's original design and resolved some issues in the process. As for the CVT (i.e. HMMS) concerns...there are two sides to its truth. On one hand this is the first time the CVT was introduced in the Civic and has Honda's early designs of a CVT transmission. So, the CVTs in Hondas of the period were not as robust or as nice as the current-day ones (the same can be said of all the other manufacturers). Secondly, people were new to CVTs, so people used them like traditional ATs and messed them up through really bad maintenance. The pre-facelift, i.e., the ones you are looking at, had the 1.5L variant, which came with the 5MT, 4AT, and CVT options, while the 1.7 came in 5MT and CVT variants. With the facelift (2004 September onwards), they dropped the 1.5L CVT variant. Personally, I felt that the CVT and the 1.5L engine were not a good match. The car was droney and a bit elastic when accelerating compared to the 5MT and the 4AT, so it was a good move to drop it. Now....compared to the Corolla 121 the Civic ES. You probably cant find two more different cars within the same segment. The Civic is a far nicer car to drive. It even feels more refined. However, there are some people who would not like the ES' sportier ride feel and prefer the cloudy numbness of the 121. With the 121, it was a no-nonsense A to B car. 99% of the cars found in SL are the standard boring models (i.e. 1.5L or 1.3L econo boxes). To make things worse, owners over the years have done all kinds of "upgrades" just to try to up-sell their cars. So, you will find a low-trim model (i.e. X) that has been fitted with parts/accessories locally to look like a high-trim (i.e. G grade or Limited Edition) model. So, you cannot trust 99% of the cars to be genuine. Also, since most of these were bought at some point in their life by cheap owners looking for a cheap ride, they have not had proper maintenance (service or repairs). You might have a better chance of finding an honest and cleaner ES. Civics are popular with ricers and wanna-be racers trying to live out their Fast the Furious fantasies. But most ESs seem to have managed to escape from these types of owners. You might want to look into the other Japanese options in this segment as well. Namely the Sunny, Lancer and Familia/323 (and Axela/3).

NGL...I am a simpleton and like simple things. Therefore I liked the base wheels in the GLX the most It also came in polished silver/light-gray. But of the two I do prefer the original one. The Pajero one seems a bit too busy with all those holes

Sadly you are not going to find parts for this that easily. The car was not that popular in SL so you are not going to find any abandoned cars to be used as donors. On top of that, any and all cars that were in Japan are now not there anymore as they would have been exported or rusted to the ground. So cars that can be stripped for parts are quite rare. Nearly a decade and a half in Japan I haven't seen more than one or two of these Integras.

Okay...so a physics lesson. If you take two objects and tighten them together, the sway/movement of one object will be fully transferred on to the second object by the joint. Depending on the two objects and the amount of sway, this will cause fatigue at the joint and eventually break. So...sometimes you do need to have a bit of play when connecting two items together. E.g. train carriages, ceiling fans and the ceiling. Even plane wings are meant to wabble like that for the same reason. Depending on the type of suspension, the top mount will differ. With some types (think of 3 bolt type top mounts with a mounting faceplate) this "gap" may or may not be visible. Your Yaris has a single bolt top mount. It is mounted by sandwiching the two support plates against the mount (there are pros and cons for this type of mount. This type of top of the mount in its normalcy is not that known for its heavy-duty usability. So typically found in hatchbacks and such. The setup loses a bit of directness when steering hard because there is too much flex. Cars like the GR Yaris also has the similar setup but with a lot of reinforcement. Whilst that has made it stronger there is a slight lack in directness in movement even then, which is why the facelift went with a 3 bolt setup.). Yes...over time the gap may appear to increase as the bottom bushings perching up the components wear out. Sometimes, after replacement, the gap may seem larger than what the original was because the components are new, so the gapping is different, or the parts used are compatible parts but not the exact part with the exact specs the car came with out of the factory. There is nothing wrong with this as long as there is no significant play when you turn the steering or the suspension moves up and down that the strut looks like it is going to get dislodged.

These are only for organizations registered with the tourism board as tourism service providers (hotels, tour operators, etc...). You need to show that you have brought and can bring in 300,000 USD per year in revenue to get approval for 1 vehicle. Then for each block of 100K USDs they allow an additional vehicle each. So, as you can see, only large tourism operators can afford this, and normal people are not even eligible. So do not believe everything you read on Facebook (which is flooded with comments from keyboard warriors). Secondly, opening up imports. Well. If there is an election coming up then the politicians would like to make sure promises (and those in power might actually do it) just to get votes. Either way, considering the reserves the country has and the debt obligations, logically it is unlikely that mass imports will be allowed, or if it does that it can be sustainable. Now...as a part of the funding from donors, etc...includes requirements to open up the free market. however, cars are a low priority. So if car imports are to be opened up in line with this, it is most likely going to be very restricted imports. So the imported cars (for the mass market) are still going to be expensive because supply is going to be way below demand, currency is still pretty weak, especially with the USD getting stronger globally, and most importantly, our car broker mafia is going to hold up prices high no matter what. Never in the history of Sri Lanka have car prices gone down. They might fluctuate downwards a little bit but it has never gone down to prices of an era before it. I am not a fan of any of the budget cars on your list. Although they do get the job done. They also get aged quite a lot with use. Out of the list I am more partial towards the Picanto. As for the mid-range cars. The Axela/3 will be the best all rounder. Larger car than the other two. No frills gasoline engine. Does not have hyped up prices for a badge like Toyota. Aqua, Fit...bot decent choices if you can find a good example. Being hybrids they do come with hybrid system related maintenance requirements (and even issues if not maintained properly) like swapping battery cells, etc...

No no...please...it is your turn. I did not answer it. I just dropped in some crumbs. But yeah...there is a thing called a R2 Type S STi. They were in black, white and WR blue. Needless to say the blue one now fetches a lot more money now than the other colors.

Did you know that the sport development unit of this brand offered a package on the Type S trim level ? It came in WR blue so people cute little rally replicas of its rallying big brother

Yes it is...the specific one I keep seeing is a DPL vehicle that was cleared a few weeks ago and late last week was registered Over to you.

Here you go...something easy

86....some of the similarities with the Aqua are uncanny.

Well...those are two of the reasons why oil burning could happen. Unfortunately this is the state of the automobile industry in Sri Lanka. No one wants to actually do a proper diagnostic and figure out the problem to fixit. They just want to guesstimate a cause and fix it and hope it will solve the issue. If the owner is lucky it will solve it. If not they will get you to fix the next probable cause. First step would be to find someone who is willing to take it apart and find the issue and fix what is found. This maybe something simple that takes half an hour to fix or discover a whole host of issues.

These are never a total/sustainable solution but merely a way to temporarily address the symptoms. How well it performs depends on the condition of the engine and the actual cause of the oil burn itself. These additives work by having particles/polymers that try to improve seals within the cylinders like improve the seal around the piston rings (plus the contents of it can help reduce friction within the cylinders, etc and reduce noise a bit). Depending on what is actually causing the oil burn, this might mask the symptoms or do absolutely nothing at all (e.g. its not going to clean out your PCV, nor will it magically fix a worn-out piston ring in the long term). So like @Ruslan asked...why not see why the oil burn is there and try to fix that ? Also, these additives...its not a one time use product. You will have to keep using it at every oil change (or, again, depending on the extent of the issue every other oil change).

The P20 series (3rd gen) body and chassis were first introduced in 1986. The production ended for major markets in 1999. However, Taiwan, Indonesia and the Philippines kept the model in production till around 2017. It was built by local carriage builders under licensing from Mitsubishi (similarly some carraige builders kept producing the . This was mainly the cargo van. The P20 series wagon was officially called the Star Wagon. Whether it had a glass roof and what kind of glass roof depended on the trim level (AERO Roof package, Crystal Light Roof, Sun roof packages). It was introduced in 1989 and was around till 1998 for major markets. What is interesting is although they stopped making it in 1998 they had enough stock to keep it selling till 2000 or 2001 or something ! After that it was built by Mitsubishi's Taiwan partner till like 2012 or something. In 1994 the next gen was released and named the SPACE GEAR (PA/PE series). Yes there was an overlap ! No idea why...as both had 4WD and RWD variants(Star Wagon remained part time whilst the SPACE GEAR became full-time). The only difference was that the P25 only had some base trims (DX, GLX and some Limited packaged introduced now and then), whilst the PA/PE series SPACE GEAR had more upmarket variants (Exceed, Super Exceed, XG, etc..). So I guess they were priming the market for the Delica to get a bit more upmarket, not to mention pushing out a ton of produced shells. The highest trim of the P25 was about 2.5mil yen whilst the cheapest 4WD SPACE GEAR started at 2.5mil yen and went all the way up to about 4.5mil yen. So quite a huge leap in price.

You are looking at a 20 year old car ! After 20 years....fuel figures are going to vary quite a lot between two cars of the same brand, model and even similar mileages. This is because it has a lot to do with how the car components have worn out (naturally) and the maintenance history of the vehicle. One could always expect to get an average 1500cc car, expect to get anything from 8 to 11kmpl this old, depending on the condition of the vehicle. Other factors, such as vehicle weight (stock weight, weight after adding accessories, changing wheels, etc..), will pull this in either direction. Well, you don't get much around, and that is to your benefit and disadvantage. You are likely to get one at a more reasonable price compared to a hacked-out Corolla. When reselling, you will have to be patient. However, any car that is in good condition (i.e., properly taken care of, clean, and without quick paint jobs and dodgy repairs for the sake of selling) will sell quite soon. As for parts...your biggest issue is going to be body parts as they are not very common. Even in Japan, it was available only for a short period of time. As for mechanical parts, it shared engine, transmission and suspension components from other Suzukis of the period like the Ignis/Swift...so you will be able to find mechanical parts relatively easily (granted you may have to do some leg work more than for counterfeit Toyota/Nissan parts available at Johnny aiya's waadiye parts kade down the road). Is there any particular reason you are looking at a Liana/Aerio ? Something like a Swift/Ignis ? or something a bit more mainstream like a Viva (Elite ? also much newer) or a Axela/3 or Lancer (albeit, these might have to be slightly older) might be easier for you to maintain. Even a FB15 Sunny might fit your budget if you can find a good one. Also, the simplicity of a car like the Viva might give you a good starting point to learn about cars (if you are so inclined). Stay away from Toyotas...a complete waste of time trying to find a good car. Only buy it if one falls on your lap. Remember...if your total budget is 3.5mil...you should keep about 500,000LKR for preemptive post-purchase maintenance work and unexpected repairs over the first few months (this will happen no matter what, even if you get it inspected by car checks or the agent...somethings cannot be diagnosed and only be assessed/determined using varying factors. By the way...you should get a proper inspection done. There is a thread on buying a used car...please go through it.

Typical locations for the chassis number (or VIN number) are: 1. firewall or etched on an exposed part of the chassis within the engine area. 2. ID plate screwed on to the firewall or exposed part of the chassis. 3. Under the driver's seat 4. Plate on the dashboard (some have it riveted on to the dashboard mount and can be seen through the windshield..some have an ID plate in the glove compartment or some other similar location. 5. Somewhere around the door jams/pillars. I don't know..maybe someone who knows about the FAW truck can give you a more specific answer.

Oooh ! Very nice ! Looking forward to seeing more pics of her.... I know the later model had more or less everything off of a Pajero...does this as well ? Also, becareful of that bullbar...the other owners seem to cry all the time about the cops giving them a hard time over it.

Yes it is ! Over to you

Okay...here you go...

Okay...so about the Geely recommended above....good if you can find a good car. Most of them are rattly and rusting out. Euro cars...depending on where you are you might find it challenging to maintain. Where are you ? Plus...Euro cars are a committed relationship. So unless you are willing to have a committed relationship you are going to be miserable. So...I am going to suggest the usual Japanese cars. Now...a Japanese car (especially if you find an immaculate example) can be like the school-time lifelong love affair with the girl next door or be as quick and raunch as a night with lady of the night (that comes with similar risks as well). 1. Toyota: T2xx series Corona Premio (1.6L) and Carina (1.5L). Good ones hardly come up for sale and when they do they are advertised more towards 4mil for a Carina. The Corona Premio is significantly cheaper. Looked at a few for a friend over the last few weeks and the Coronas were in better shape than the Carinas too. They do exist if you are willing to be patient. I would not bother wasting my time looking at Corollas/Sprinters (sedans and wagons) because 99% of them are garbage and over priced. Only time I would look at one is if something exceptional pops up and literally falls on to my lap. Cars like the Mark II, Chaser, etc...will be significantly over your budget. 2. Nissan: Honestly, I cannot think of any other than a Sunny FB15 (I personally find this the better option compared to a Corolla of the same generation). Again...hard to find a decent model. A Primera would be the most comfy...but again...a lot have been abused by wannabe racer boys. Cars like Glorias/Cedrics are now quite expensive because people want to buy them for "modification". Bluebirds, Cefiros, etc......again...most have been poorly maintained and have plenty of hidden gremlins lurking inside. 3. Honda: You are limited to the likes of Civics. Again...wouldn't bother chasing one down unless something exceptional drops on your lap. Fits are almost the same. 4. Mazda and Mitsubishi: The usual suspects...Axela/3 and the Lancer. Good ones are held on to by owners like gold and when they come up for sale, they disappear in no time. Most are pretty average but would be in significantly better shape than a Corolla. If you are into hatchbacks, the Demio is also a decent option. So... looking at the above.... I would say.... you are 26. Make your money go further. If you can find a Peugeot 406 in good shape. Go for it. Build a love affair. Yes, they are cars that your neighbors/friends and kade' mudalali will envy you over because "market naha", but you buy low and you sell it off at a decently depreciated price (provided you take care of it). If you are worried about going for a Euro...well you have an idea of the common Japanese options. Finally..don't max out your budget on buying the car itself. If the maximum amount of money you can spare is 3.5mil...then you should aim for a car that is about 3mil and keep at least 500,000 for post-purchase preemptive maintenance and repair work that will come up as you start using the car.