alpha17
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Everything posted by alpha17
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I would go for a Panda in a heartbeat, even though it fails on 1,2,3 points, because Nano is like a matchbox compared to the Panda. Also the panda might be safer during an accident. But remember Panda totally sucks when compared with other vehicles, but here it’s the Nano which I believe, isn’t a proper car at all. Just a four wheeled three wheeler with AC?.
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@Roshan321 dead friend, you’ve got many points wrong in comments. First is that you are saying we are not expecting China to make High-end, solidly built luxury cars. Just google Hongqi L5, which is the proper chinese rolls-royce (not a copy cat) with a price tag closer to two phantoms. China makes good cars. But this DFCC 580 is not one of them. I mean you are paying over 6 million for a chinese made car which is going to give you lot of problems and would likely to loose value closer to 50% in another 2-3 years. Then you are saying that about weight of the doors comparing with a Lexus?. I won’t say a word. Please, buy this jeep. We hope your FD1 will sell soon. Then get this DFCC 580 whatever but don’t try to think that we would believe what you are saying about this vehicle. Most of the members here in this forum have plenty of knowledge and experiences regarding automobiles. We know what you are saying. Just don’t show your “teenage mentality” and buy this vehicle. Good luck! p.s- I still remember how I used to hate Toyotas, when my dad’s double cab crashed onto the back of a Hiace when I was a kid. The accident ended up causing just a dent on the Hiace’s rear door and a considerable amount of damage to our double cab making me really upset about Toyotas.(not relating the DFCC story, but kind of relates in some ways ?)
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Once in a while, an entertainer shows up in the forum saying how extraordinary a particular vehicle model is....There was Crisco Nihal, the kid who tried to sell his dad’s Cefiro and now this DFSK guy??? I really love to enter into conversation with those people??Thanks for giving us enjoyment??
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QuoteGuys, its getting really tiring to see thread after thread, post after post of people asking about the fuel consumption of this and that car model.
My advise is if you have to worry about how much your car is doing on gas, sell the bloody thing and take a bus!
If not just look after your car properly, pump the specified fuel, stop pouring in all the muck you see at 3am on As Seen On TV in to you engine and just enjoy your vehicle.
A 2-4 Km per liter difference will not make you a happier human being, especially when you are stuck in Colombo traffic during the school rush on a hot day with AC full on!
Cars on SL roads average 6-12 Km/l if your car is within that range, shut up and drive.
Like I said, if you have sleepless nights over this minor issue, sell the car and bus it!
this comment by @VVTi on crisco nihal thread is the most valuable note for anyone looking for a car. If you love and value your ride and take good care of it, that's all that matters. Resale value, should it be a high priority, will hold reasonably irrespective of the fuel economy if the car is well taken care of and in good nick. Just my thought
But the fun is unlimited all through the thread.
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Oh dear, I can’t believe an owner of a FD1 behaves like this?. Yes, like you said 3 years warranty is very important for a DFSK. Aren’t they giving you accomodation closer to the service center? Because you’ll be visiting that place very often. You are saying that everyone is complaining about the build quality of the vehicle. Yes, build quality is a top reason to avoid or buy a particular vehicle. A relation of mine owns a BAIC x25 (a car from chinese company similar to DFSK) but it has an engine from something like a SAAB and the gearbox is from Aisin. But the build quality is horrible. Shows the signs of a jap car used for more than 200,000+ kms even after doing 15,000kms. You need the whole strength to close the driver’s side door. You can hear many creeks and noises throughout the cabin when travelling on a bad road. That’s what you get for the low price. I won’t trust DFSK. I have driven the Glory. You get a huge list of options and 7 seating (most important thing for you) for a pretty low price. Everything is cheaply built. People like you are trying to convince yourselves from saying others that you are going to buy a chinese crap, and it’s good. So you’ll expect others to say “wow, congratz” and then you can make up your mind a go for it. You came here to ask for the opinions of the members. They said about what they know about the brand, but you are continuously saying it’s better. So there is no point of asking for the opinions. But no one is stopping you. Just go for the DFSK whatever model. Enjoy the repairs! Good luck.
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Clarification on Honda CR-V and Peugeot 3008
alpha17 replied to Dhaham's question in Car Buying Information
I am neither an euro car expert, nor a user. But Peugeot is not a reliable brand as Japs or Euros like Mercs and Bmws. I have seen most of the interior parts are failing in Peugeots, typically older ones. Don’t know about the newer ones. If you are far away from Colombo, sourcing parts for a Peugeot would be a bit difficult. So the best decision might be the CRV, even thought it might not be eye catching. -
There are many other choices, but the safest bet might be the Vitz. Most of the toyotas, such as Allion 240, Corolla 121 are beaten to death by now. So you’ll be having a hard time searching for a good one. There are nicer to drive cars such as the Civic ES5, Mazda Axela. Most of these cars have been owned by people who really enjoy driving, so you’ll be able to find a good one. But it’ll be a little bit problematic if you are away from a main city, such as Colombo, Kandy or Kurunegala, as parts are a bit harder to find. When we talk about reselling, yes, people say Hondas and Mazdas are harder to sell than a Toyota, but depends on the condition of the car and your luck.
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Mention the model number and I’ll be able to find some details.
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If you like a Vitz, go for it. It’s a no-nonsense, good car for A to B transportation
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yahoo japan is a famous site, but you’ll have to translate the pages, so better off using a pc to search. You can inspect the cars, but, better to go to a good place for the bidding process. Sometimes there are guys who asks you to inspect auctions sites (sites that they use) by yourself till a suitable model comes up for sale, and then you should inform them to inspect and bid for it. A guy I knew imported an Outlander PHEV a few year ago by this method. Toyo Lan also imports vehicles from japan from auctions, so better to contact them and check their prices. Might be a bit more expensive but you can trust them, plus you might get after sales services.
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hope so buddy?
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I was expecting the repairs. Bought the car from a relation of mine. Went for the car due to the main reason that it was not hacked or met with major accidents (as almost all the cars I went to inspect had met with major accidents). Other than that I got the car for a bargain. Total service history from day 1, owners manuals, 2 smart keys are there. He even reduced 50k for a new set of tyres. I knew that those repairs would come but I was reluctant to let her go at that time. The problem is I had to extend my budget to the max, so I had no money set aside for the repairs to come. Now my financial side is a bit better, so I started sorting out the problems one by one. He had replaced the AC compressor, which is a known issue in those cars.
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OMG!! Yes buddy. I agree with you. We could've reduced those costs by going for cheap alternatives, instead of using genuine parts. The mounts were bought from TL and installed by a trustworthy and skilled mechanic who always did a great job to my cars. Shock absorbers are ordered 2 days ago through my friend in japan. My tail light was damaged by the gate, but still waiting to be replaced using a japanese one. One was found but there is an unnoticeable crack in the plastic surround which would not affect its usage, but refused putting it. They are pretty rare here. Previous owner had pumped 95 and I also continued but still monthly cost for the fuel seems to be reduced by a significant amount.
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It works fine. But the camera cannot cover the corners. Due to maroon colour, using side mirrors is a bit tricky. Mostly in areas with bad lighting, the car also blends into the dark. Not a huge issue, but it’s there. And then keeping it clean...Just a 10km journey is more than enough to ruin a body wash.
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@hrm @Hyaenidae @GayanR @Davy Thanks buddies. I’ll check the gear oil level, condition and will change it. Now just sorting out the running repairs one by one. Cost 70k for buying the genuine mounts. Then ordered the shock absorbers from japan and would likely to cost me around 150k. For tyres (bridgestone) ready to buy anytime required for 70-75k. And finally the petrol filter change and a complete tune up waiting to be done. I’m really disappointed about the car(even all of them are running repairs). Seems to me that bought the car during the wrong time. My good old 121 never gave me this amount of trouble or running cost(even though I did all the above mentioned replacements). Above all that parking and keeping the car safe is a real burden for me. Reversing during night in areas with bad lighting is really hard due to the dark colour. Sometimes feel like getting something like a Mark X grx120 and a jap alto for daily run.
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Nope mate. That's behaviour is 100% normal when driving. Only the engagement causes this issue. Talking about that 4 speed autobox...good old 121..yeah..I miss that fun! As I remember there was a slight delay when I bought the car, but the issue was highlighted about 2-3 months ago. So I went for the Toyo Inspection and they told me the issue would be fixed by the mount replacement. Even after the replacement the issue is still there. But it varies from time to time. Sometimes the gear engages without any hiccups and sometimes the jerk makes the car jump even though I push the brake pedal all the way. 95% of the time the delay is there and it is accompanied by that jumping. But the D engages completely normally without any issue. I'm really confused... I really have no idea about the last oil change since the previous owner had taken care of it. All the records are there of the oil changes from the first one and done from Au*o M*r*je. Previous owner is a relation of mine and he is a genuine person. So if the oil changes are recorded as done, Au*o M*r*je might have faked and charged him for doing the job.
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Hello guys, So I noticed this issue in my Allion 260 recently. When I put the gear to R from any other gear (P or N), it takes 1-2 seconds to engage.During the delay car feels like it’s in neutral, but when it engages to R in a harsh manner, giving a jerk (like a jump). The transmission oil have been changed within 30,000km from the beginning, and now the car has only done around 12,000km after the change.What is the problem? When I went for Toyo Lan inspection, they denoted that the problem is with the engine mounts, but changed all 4 engine mounts today using genuine ones. Still the problem is there. What seems to be the problem? What should I do? Experts please give your opinions! Thanks guys p.s - After thinking more carefully I got these points about the issue. The jerk's(jump) severity is depended on the rpm level. During a cold start, the engine rpm is high, so the jerk is severe. Today, after fixing the mounts , rpm was lowered to 400-500 due to the ecu reset caused by the battery removal. So the jerk was not there at that moment, but the late engagement was there. When the engine rpm became normal after returning to home, the jerk was there. When I put the gear into R, during the delay, the engine behaves like it was put into Neutral or Park because the rpm goes a bit higher like those two gears. D is completely normal. Haven't noticed any abnormalities in D. No drop in the economy
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Go to a reliable place where you can select a desired model directly from an auction. They’ll be able to explain about the auction sheet details and true vehicle condition. Make them bid for you and do the importing process. That is a lot safer as mentioned by most of the members. Usually Japanese people are honest but those SL ayyala would do their best to cheat you.
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What the hell is wrong with Toyota now!!!??? They’re trying to make luxo barges like Lexus LS sportier, while letting the Supra to be designed by the BMW. What a shame!!!
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Well...there always have been sportier barges...nothing new....A lot of people think the Supra was Toyota's flagship car that showcased Toyota's engineering prowess. Not true ! What the Supra was was Toyota's flagship sports car...the big kahuna on top of the speed chain.
The Supra has always been built with borrowed parts...and from guess what !!! ??? luxo barges ! During the first generations the parts came from cars like the sportier Carina, Mark II, etc....then with the Mark IV Supra...even the much loved 2JZ-GTE was actually designed for the Aristo (to compete in JTCC)...so Supra has always been a borrowed tech car and what truly showcased Toyota's engineering capabilities were the barges. The only exception is the LFA where the LFA was Toyota's halo car. The way they have mapped out the DNA for the current cars is the LFA is the Halo car and the Lexus brand borrow things form that....in the case of the standard Toyota line...the root of the DNA strand starts with the Le Mans winning Hybrid car.
As for cars becoming sportier....well..Toyota's focus has always been to build average cars....they are not exciting nor are they very awe inspiring. However..with just a small tweak in a few small things (lie putting a strut bar or a few more weld points) the car takes on a completely different characteristic.
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Thanks for the info mate. When you moved from original shocks absorbers to KYB, did you notice any difference in ride quality?
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I currently have Bridgestone Ecopia EP150 on my car(185/65R15). Now they are on their last breath, so I plan to go for the 195/65/R15 as Toyota has mentioned this variant on tire detail sticker. So I’m interested in two models. Previously owned and proven durable(done 60,000kms) Ecopia 150 and Dunlop Veuro VE302. I have no experiences about Dunlop. Can someone share his experiences on Veuro and which is the best among them?
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Is there any difference between Japan made and Indo made tires from the same manufacturer? Indo/Thai ones are around 2500 cheaper than the japan variants.
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Best sensible car for 3 million?
alpha17 replied to urheard2008's question in Car Buying Information
Finding good examples of a car like Allion or Premio is extremely hard these days as most of them have been beaten to death. Sometimes there might be better ones popping up for sale. But you have to be patient since you are looking for a nearly 15-17 years old car. Usually cars in this price range are less likely to be changed by a huge margin, so you might gain or loose depending on the market. Buying a hybrid like an Aqua is pretty useless if you do less than 1000km per month as the battery will degrade sooner. Mind that most of the Aqua batteries might be in their last breaths so you might have to keep some additional money for replacements. Fit is also a good choice, but again it’s also a hybrid, but IMO better to drive and looks better than the Aqua. Another fact is that hybrids’ values depreciate much faster than normal cars. I would never pay over 3million for an indian car. There are good cars like Mazda Axela, Honda Civic FD4 and Mitsubishi Lancer EX, which are better looking and better to drive than Toyotas. Most of them are owned by people who enjoy driving, so you’ll have a good chance of finding a nice one. As a drawback you might not be able to sell them easily. Best thing is to drive each one of these models and select the best model which suits you. Make sure to mention what are your major requirements other than the resale value as it would be easy for members to recommend accordingly. -
Yeah, all the facts are very attractive. I remember how the Baic X25 was introduced by micro saying that it has a Saab engine, Aisin gearbox etc etc... But “avuruddak dekak giyama thamai baba hambenne machan” Also about the CVT, I’m really curious about getting to know how to use it. Please enlighten me Doctor. They have a horrible build quality and when you do around 50,000km, shows the signs of a 200,000+kms done japanese car. A relation of mine owns a Baic X25 from the first batch and you have to use all your strength to close the driver’s door, and the car is still around 15,000km. That’s the skill of chinese people. Their quality is depended on the price you pay. There are some high end domestic brands like HongQi, which carry price tags closer to Bentlys and Rolls. Hope you remember the chinese phone craze in SL back in 2007-2009? Those brick sized phones with TV antennas, and huge displays with cameras saying 8megapixels? Best example. Most of them died or started giving problems after few months of usage. On the other hand mobiles like Huawei P30 pro, One Plus and Xiaomi gives a real competition to Apples and Samsungs.
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Sometimes, cars which have been repaired after severe crashes indicate these kind of issues (misaligned chassis). Since there is a notable difference between the left and right wheels in height, most probably its related to suspension components.
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Better to stick with a non-hybrid if you plan to do less than 1000kms per month. According to what I've heard, the 2nd Generation Prius is believed to be much more robust than the 3rd gen in the battery department. If you have the need of a hybrid better to go for a battery replaced one or set aside some cash to do the replacement. @mcs627 What about suspension component replacements earlier? Did you replaced the shock absorbers? If replaced, what is the brand: KYB or Genuine Toyota? How long did they last?
