alpha17
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Posts posted by alpha17
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42 minutes ago, RnR said:
The issue is one can't permanently turn this off. It resets every time you switch off the car.
Unless otherwise you develop this as a habit, you always forget to do this.
That's why I'm asking any first hand experience.
You have to do it again and again, even in a Bimmer f10. Just make it a habbit anyway. I have noticed that compared to a hybrid engine startup, 1NZ-FE engine(premio, allion) auto-start stop startup is similar to a normal startup, with ignition noise.
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Mine does not have one, since it's from 2013. But I've heard even the option was introduced for fuel saving, it pretty much wears out the engine and battery fast. So better to leave it off. At the same time, if you can get a 2015+ Premio, hope the fuel saving of Rs.100 for a week with auto start stop is not a great saving. Hope this helps!
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Check with sterling. One of my friend replaced a whole battery from them. Dunno about their service though.
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On 12/31/2021 at 12:04 AM, cpaul said:
Radio system NSZT w66t.
Has anyone successfully changed the language?
I'm afraid to say that you are out of luck. None of these japanese Toyota radios can be fully translated into English. Only models which can be translated are the systems in Mitsubishi vehicles, with models sold internationally, such as Outlander, Eclipse cross.
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5 minutes ago, tilvin said:
Thanks for the reply friend. But my case is different. I completely shutoff the blower. So NO air coming from the vents and the AC is fully shut down. Still heat air coming from the foot area from both side. Tomorrow, I am going to bring to a "interior cushion shop" and going to put another floor carpet over the original carpet and see whether we can stop the hot air coming out...?
I also shut the AC after noticing the malfunctioning of the cooling system. So better to get the AC checked my friend?
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3 hours ago, tilvin said:
I showed to a silencer shop. They asked to accelerate the engine after putting to a slope. Then visually checked from the bottom and told that no any leaks. Since black smoke came when accelerating asked to show the injector pump to a pump workshop. There was a pump shop close by. I showed to them. They removed the pump and serviced by putting some new parts and re-fixed. Charged me 15K for the job...?. Now there are no black smoke. Set the RPM to 1200 when AC on and on the gear position "Park". They told can't reduce below due to the engine mounts. They told to replace all four engine mounts. I am still wondering how all four engine mounts went at same time.
But when I drive back the car, still the "Heat air coming from bottom when blower off" is there. What can I do?
I bought the car only few weeks back. Never used a Toyota diesel before...?. Already spend more than 1 lakhs on suspension work and these. Can any body help me to find a good mechanic who can attend on this engine mount issue? Does recondition mounts available anywhere for 2C turbo engine? Please help.
I don’t recommend using reconditioned mounts. There are two ways a mount can loose it’s intended functionality. One is the mileage and we all know that more kms you drive, more wear and tear happens.
Then, the time. We all know that when a car is not used for a long time or do only a very few kms for about 5-6 years, tires are loosing there elasticity, due to being sitting without any movement. So do the mounts, as their rubber compounds starts to harden by the being of time, when they are not being used. When I change the four engine mounts, one seemed completely fine. When I checked it with a new one, there is a noticeable difference between the two. Old one was hardened.
Another experience was when a person I know bought a 2010 January Premio on October 2019, the mounts were in bad condition, even though the car has done only 47,000kms. Mileage was proved by all the service records and emission test reports. When the car was started, you could easily feel the vibration.
As a fact, those recon mounts have been sitting on yard floors while being exposed to various weather conditions and it even worsens the condition. Best thing is to get them brand new. I also got a 2013 Toyota, but had to pay 70k for mounts and 140k to be set aside for suspension plus another 70k for tires?.
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The same thing was experienced with a Swift by myself. When I was driving the car from Athurugiriya to Kadawatha throught the Expressway, I noticed a considerable amount of heat waves are catching my feet. Same story...The A/C cooling was very poor. So noticed after some time the compressor doesn’t work at all. Replaced the compressor and everything became normal.
This heat starts to feel when you drive for a few kilometers. Am I correct?
Better to get the AC system checked...I might be wrong, but I guess it’s due to we people are being used for air conditioning while driving and the heat feels so unfamiliar and embarrassing when the AC fails to function.
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I ended up with a Huawei Watch GT after hunting for a few Seiko and CK models. Certainly not a piece of art, but thanks to it I started working out and walking more to get step count goals. Ended up loosing over 11kg and getting a lower hearbeat. It’s really a fitness tracker without smart features with a classy look. Geek-wise, it’s still a basic watch; something like a mi band with a colourful display. Will not buy a Huawei watch again, but certainly I’d go for a smart watch without even thinking twice...
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I’m looking at you Mazda?...Do some turbocharging and we could afford 6s?
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This overly moving needle suggests about the hybrid battery issue in the Civic FD3. Not sure if it’s the same for the GP1, but both of them shares the same technology, so there might be a similarity in how they show those signs. Another fact is that if the mileage is genuine, the battery might be failed due to light usage, which causes it to charge in a more seldom manner. Anyway, now it’s 8 years and the battery might be needing a replacement. Better to get it checked. Sometimes it might not be an issue, as you mentioned about no changes in performance or fuel economy.
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As car lovers, we all hate taxes on cars...But I can’t imagine about the amount of traffic we’ll have to face after reducing the taxes. Still, I think there is more than enough cars in this country, and we don’t even have a recycling method for old cars. People still ride those 1970’s cars with a same amount of potty and paint applied equal to that of the vehicle’s weight..Yes, they can’t get a newer one, but still, a bit of a reduction is acceptable...
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The 140 series Luxel is better than the 160 series IMO. A well-known person owned a 140, and I was ready to buy it about an year ago. But he still keeps the car.
When considering the 140 series, it was a Luxel Alpha edition, 2007. Only thing missing was the alloy wheels.
In the 140 series, the Luxel had those options,
-Rear lip spoiler and front grille with vertical lines
-Teak panels(some G grades after the facelift also had panels, but in the 2007 era, those wooden panels were yellowish)
-7 speed tiptronic CVT transmission mated with 1800cc engine
-Split folding rear seats
-A better looking and a more functional meter panel
-Multi function steering was originally installed
-Auto parking came with the original navigation unit, including a hard disk and bluetooth connectivity
-rear suspension has an anti-roll bar to increase handling
-6 airbags
The alpha edition had all the above ones plus;
-Radar cruise control
-Pre crash safety
Haven’t inspected a 160 Luxel. I think the 140 series Axio is far more refined and comfortable than the cheapish looking 160 series.
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You can get something more rugged; like the Toyota Prado. Go for the range topping TZ-G variant, as they give you far more options plus, justification for the price you pay. AFAIK the most of the TZ-G are gasoline variants. The TX only gives you the options of a 2007 Axio G grade.
The there is the Harrier hybrid. A good one can be grabbed well below your budget and save some more for the battery if you really prefer a hybrid. The interior is miles better in the Harrier than the Prado(Prado aims towards being a robust vehicle). I myself would go with the Harrier if I need an SUV.
Or else, you can buy something like a new E class from Merc and simply make a statement for yourself. That’s where my money would go, if a SUV is not a must.
Best thing is, get a mint E class W212 from 2013-2016 era and then get something like a RAV4 for your weekend getaway?.
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See!!! Change is happening! People are changing! He has changed after Presidential election?
Since those china made cheap econo boxes struggle to deliver their power, I’ve been a passenger in a CHR for nearly 70km with 6 grown up people including me. I myself weighs around 85kg and all the others were fully grown adults who might weigh around 60-70kg. The boot was full of luggage. Guarantee that the car was carrying a weight around 400kg.Still I rarely heard the engine noise and the power was there when needed. The driver did some challenging overtakes which require good amount of power. I was pretty amazed!
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Now, my tires are in their last breath...Will be able to cope for another 2-3 months. Currently I have Bridgestone Ecopia EP150 185/65 R15 (Thailand made) installed by the previous owner. They had done well over 60,000kms by now (1st set after the original Goodyears) So I cannot comment on how they performed when they were new. My mind is moving between the same model and the Dunlop Veuro VE302, but with the factory recommended larger balloon size version (195/65 R15). I couldn't find much details about the Veuro 302, but most say they are made for less noise and better comfort. Still I can get a Japanese made Dunlop one with a price closer to that of the Bridgestone. I want to know about the durability of the Veuro. Having heard about shorter lifespan of Dunlop tires, a bit hesitant to go for one, but at least 40,000km lifetime is expected. Can someone share their experience on the Veuro by Dunlop?
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Resale would be a bit harder than a Toyota, but depends on the condition of the vehicle. I remember in 2012, I was looking for a car, my mind was bouncing between the Axela/3 and 121, and finally settled with a 121 owned by a known person. The car served me for 7 years without absolutely no trouble (not even a flat tire). Took me around 2-3 weeks to sell as I was quoting 3 million. Then changed the price to 2.88million during the night and the first buyer who came on the next day morning gave an advance.
I have driven a 2007 Axela to check whether it suits my requirements. It won’t be as comfortable or refined as a Toyota, but has its own perks. The engine is very rev happy and just snaps to 4000-5000rpm when you kick down. Steering has a nice weight and you get the feeling that the car is nicely planted on the road. The engine is noisy during the idle. Note that if you are around 6ft, you’ll need to look somewhere else. But the car I drove was from a sale and it wasn’t in perfect condition. Engine was okay, but it had met with a heavy frontal collision. Since I was looking for something with space and refinement I gave up the idea. When it comes to bells and whistles, some options are not yet available in the brand new Premio/Allion.
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I would rather go with the trustworthy car with all the records. If non of them have the records, better off with the Vios. A relation of mine owns a pre-facelift Vios. With the body kit, spoiler and factory fitted alloy wheels, Vios looks much cooler than the Axio, but still it’s just a Yaris or a Belta with 1500cc engine. It’s not comfortable or well put together than the Axio. The engine is considerably rough than the one in the Axio, while sharing the same(due to some minor changes in JDM models). But performance wise Vios is better. You’ll get more options than the Axio X grade since the Vios has almost all the options available in the Axio G grade. Has a better audio system with those parcel shelf speakers, which can easily be upgraded with high end ones. Then the Vios has a sportier ride while the Axio is more comfort oriented. AFAIK, the 2010 Vios also shares the 4 speed auto box compared to the CVT box in the Axio, while the latter should be taken care of more frequently. So it’s your decision..
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All the stuff we should inspect before going on a long trip
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So after a long time, decided to leave a post for this thread. It’s simple
less no of cars = less amount of information
So people are curious and would attract for a lower priced, well maintained alternative than a Toyota. I remember when I was new to this forum, I had made up my mind to go for an Axela or an ES5. But finally ended up with a Toyota which served me for 7 years without any issue. Then for the 2nd time, my mind was like playing badminton between Lancer EX and FD1 but finally ended up with another Toyota. Toyotas are all alike. Boring to drive, but reliable and comfortable.
But Honda, Mazda and Mitus are more engaging. Many places know how to repair a 121 and parts can be found everywhere. But that’s not the case with above mentioned brands. Some parts like genuine filters are hard to find and mechanics are rare around my hometown, so I ended up with a Toyota. Still I bring down all the required genuine spares from the agent and get them installed by a trustworthy mechanic....So not much of a difference ne??
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On 11/24/2019 at 9:04 AM, Hyaenidae said:
I'd just ignore it at this point ? I mean, you've already changed 4 engine mounts and replaced CVTF prematurely trying to get rid of this issue neh. How much you're going to spend with no improvement to show for it?
If the agent couldn't solve the issue, you'll have to take her to a transmission specialist like Nilwala Motors...
Yes, I should take her to some gearbox expert...When I changed the mounts, all of them were worn out, so it was a requirement at that time.
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On 11/24/2019 at 11:33 AM, hrm said:
Have you done the calibration afterwards?
Calibration?! This is the first time I heard that word regarding CVT..Please give me more details
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I don’t know what you are saying as 15-18kmpl (town, outstation or highway). For town limits, unless you travel in mid night, those figures are just a wish. A hybrid might be able to give those figures in short distances, but not in heavy traffic.
Now there is a huge popularity for Raize, but would give you 1-2 more kmpl than your Swift(or maybe similar). Still it’s early to predict on their characteristics as the car is yet to be imported. Vitara would be out of your league as it has the same engine on a heavier vehicle which would give lower figures for FC.
Then you are left aside with SL typical car buyers’ favorite cars. Allion and Premio. A 2013-2015 one can be grabbed in the given price bracket, where 90% of them being owned by permit holders. So most of them might be well taken care of. Better to go for less mileage one. Fuel figures totally depend on the driving style. I manage to squeeze out 20.X kmpl average figures (according to the trip computer) when traveling at 12-2 AM with a light foot recently. When traveling to places like Matara, using the highway, gives an average around 18kmpl for the whole journey (60% highway travel). With stop an go heavy traffic the figure might drop around 10-12 kmpl. For normal journeys with mild traffic with a distance of 60-70km, expect around 15kmpl. All those figures are based on the car’s on board trip computer and pumping 95. Most of the time I drive with an extremely light foot. It’s not a car to be driven enthusiastically, since on the corners, being ponderous and floaty. Still, it gives what Toyota is better doing at. Comfort and Reliability. For long journeys they outshine all the others from the same category with ample space, soft suspension, low road noise and ion generating AC.
So it’s totally upto your decision. Else you can go for a hybrid like the new ugly AF Prius?
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Few days ago, I changed the CVT Fluid using the genuine products. Previous fluid was in pristine condition since it’s only about 18,000km after the change. But the problem is still there, without any difference.
Can someone enlighten me what would be the issue, and a good place around Kandy or Kurunegala to get it fixed.
thanks
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16 hours ago, kmeeg said:
14k is about the cost only for the windshield if you choose 3M crystalline tint.
Does the crystalline tint reduce the dashboard’s reflection on the windscreen?
Peugeot 3008 buying advice
in Car Buying Information
Posted
A chap who lives in our street has one . He never takes care of the vehicle. Park it under direct sunlight for all 7 days of the week. I think the car has been around 2 years now but still it seems ok for me when passing by. He is a kind of a "loku line" person, so never went to check the car and have a chat. The engine is a 3 cylinder one, so it sounds very coarse when passing by.
Other than that, the car is still new in Sri Lankan environment and only a few people have gone for it. So hope there will be only a handful of people with the experience here in SL. But people from other countries have praised for it's comfort, performance and design.
Anyway, maintenance would be an issue if you live far away from Colombo. Sourcing parts could be an issue and at the same time will be a bit expensive to maintain than japanese vehicle. Even the 406 in our area has to bring down oil filters, airfilters from Colombo for each service. Since the car is new, you won't be getting any major issues, so better give it a shot!