LancerL

1. Some old cars have. 2. When you pull the knob, the other end of the cable connect to Carb will operate a butterfly kind of a flap and close the air intake, which will let more petrol sucks through intake manipol and help to ignite fast at cold start.

If you don't have outside visibility of coolant leaks, then it should be the head gasket leaking coolant in to combustion chamber where it turns out to be steam and goes out from tail pipe. First takeoff radiator cap and let the car to run until operating temperature and see you get air bubbles out (Rev a bit about 3000RPM). If you don't get any bubbles and only coolant overflowing then there will be no leaks on to combustion chamber. The next you could do is take the dipstick out (better to collect and inspect drained out oil from sump) and see if you get any white mix on it (When water mixed with oil it get whitish). Please post your observations.

Best you call the and check what is the best way of doing. I know these numbers are always busy, but there are quite a few number and keep try one after the other and you will get through (That's how I catch somebody to talk).

Once I saw a Celerio with Reg. no CAE-**** floor board has start rusting, think the metal is thin and low quality comparing to a Jap car. No experience with Picanto, so cannot comment on it, but look wise it's a nice car.

I talked to them on two occasions for two different jobs and each time they have quoted nearly the same cost that will go to get the entire panel repainted. when I told them the cost is too high for a touch up, they claim that after the touch up done need to apply a lacquer cote for the full panel and that's why the cost is high. I don't see any point of getting touch up done if it's cost you the same amount of repainting the panel. So I DIY both jobs which was about 80% success.

Yes I tried this acceleration method. 1. Parked a well carpeted road about 10 at night coz of less vehicles on road. 2. Switch off all electrical including door light, removed one battery terminal and kept for like 20mins. 3. Reconnected, started the Car and let the radiator fan kicks up. 4. Shut the engine and restarted. 5. Switch on headlight, press the break paddle and shift to D (Before shift make sure the road is clear) 6. Let the car move on and gradually accelerate until it reach 60Kmph. 7. Take leg off from accelerator and let the car itself to slow down by the engine brake. (Repeat step 6 and 7 for 2-3 times) 8. Drive home and let the it cool down. Had a trial run on next day, D and R vibration in cold start was still remaining, but after first 2-3Kms it disappeared and the acceleration feels better than earlier. I tested the same again couple of other cold starts and it was the same result. What I cannot understand is that why this has not applied to cold start but working after initial kilometers.

Yah.. I'm planing to tryout on weekend. Will update the status..

The link I was referring. http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/02/SAA2E02E15117656881BBAT00.HTML

Yes the battery been replaced to install gearbox mount without giving outside power. About 200kms back Now the total is 117000kms.

Guys, as per my findings on internet and below link, this vibration also can come if the Battery terminal removed and reconnected (ECU gets reset). What happen is that the memory related to CVT starter clutch engagement is being erased and need to reprogram to engage at the correct position. This mis engagement also could lead to the experience what PerfMad and myself are suffering. Rather repair/replace the gear box I'm looking for other possible alternatives to get this matter sorted. If anyone done this before by them self of by agents, please comment with their findings and experience before and after the calibration.

Yah it's the same one.

Well, in idle with or without A/C I don't get any vibration at any RPM (Doesn't matter the engine is hot or cold). Soon after I engage to D or R, it give a jerk and start vibrating the whole car. Done a tune up recently with changing all 8 spark plugs, Injector/throttle body cleaning and etc... Checked engine mounts and all were good except gearbox side, which I have changed with a brand new. So the final conclusion was CVT where this module is known to that. Any other possibility that you see? apart CVT.

Hi Honda experts Found this on Internet while finding a solution to my CVT vibration. Has anybody done this before? There are couple of way of doing the same, if someone have done, please mention the steps as well. Looks like this is the remedy for the jerk/vibration on D or R while brake pressed. Thanks

How do you feel when the car is not running and on idle.

Today I went to an electrician, once removing the fan assembly, the root cause was not with the bearing, somebody has repaired the motor earlier and the makabass has not properly tighten the nut that fan blade fix in to the motor's armature shaft. since there was play, it has developed by time and causing a vibration when running. It was not in a condition to tight up as the thread have gone halfway, and the motor also giving some noise when rotating (Could be due to earlier repair). So decided to replace with a recon one. Visited several recon shops to find the exact match and ended up in T*aI*yo Mount lavinia who quoted Rs. 2,900-/ which was damn reasonable as other places quoted from 4,500 to 3,000. Labour cost was Rs. 1,000/- which was way too high for the job as it was just a simple removal, which even my self could manage at home. Now there is no vibration when fan running and I would here that nice wind waving noise.... which is so nice to hear. Thanks guys for prompt reply's and guidance given.