kalinga

its the Idel valve, its not keeping up, its known to go bad on EK3's

yeap, cone will give u some boost but, not true in many cases. and not really notable. and K&N are not really good for SL, since they can allow small dust partials to pass and can damage or need regulator cleaning of your O2 sensors (MAF) there are K&N for replacing the stock filter, only benefit is, u can wash them and clean and no need to buy another filter as long as you have the oil and cleaner. but EK3 good filters are around 1500 here's some thing interesting -

40k = good job, is bit hard to find. bubbles comes when, using bad filler, painting before fully drying. wrong mix of filler + paint best idea would be to fully strip the filler totally, redo the job. (make sure the pain guy do it when there is proper heat or has a pain booth) put more then 2 layers of pain and clear cote's if you want a proper shiny look. good descant job takes long time and money.

guess they f*up some wire or water damaged. this is NOT an issue with the gearbox.

guess your asking how to change the fuel + air mixture ? if its a cab one, u can do that with the jets it has... air + fule if its EFI, the ECU does the job with sensors, (02, Temp etc) but you can re-program the ECU with the right tools and chips but keep in mind, this things can go off, if you have dirty air cleaner. blocked injectors. bad O2 sensors etc

would be nice if you can put more info, like his phone number, location. cost etc.

we would also like to know that Dr...

yeah but 100k gone and one week warranty... but after one week, who knows u may wanted to spend 100k again...

not idea but dont here good things about him on this forum tho

never use that flush stuff, it WONT remove any blocks, even at places like radiator house, it only cost around 1500 for a cleaning the pips. on other note, last weekend one of my friends car got over heated out of the blue. he garage guy was swearing it was the gasket. luckily my friend called me and ask what to do, and i went there, we got the radiator cleaned. still the issue was there, again the garage guy was saying "see i told you, it was the gasket" but i was really sure it was NOT, and he has told my friend even the valve was opened when he removed it. took it to a friends garage thinking it was the water pump, since i has no trust in the other guy, but it was NOT the fan, finally even tho the other guy was saying the valve was fine, we tested it, what do you know! it was the valve after all. testing such things are simple, get some thing that can check the water temperature, (some thing like a cake temp prove) this one has 82c on the marking. so the valve should open at 80c, so we boiled some water, and put the valve in, waited till it comes to 80, no go 90 no go 100 no go so it was the valve

Upul, takes about 100,000 for the replacement.

ah oke... thought it was a new one

from where did you get it ?

i really cant recommend a place (but i can tell you NOT go to to radiator house) but since the radiator used cap will cost around rs250 in delkada, try one if that fix the issue, u can buy a good one from tech motors. high rev's in slow speeds can case the engine to heat up one thing to check is your reserve talk has a leak since your radiator was fixed, i guess it has a plastic head. most people cant get the seal to the way it was. so i maybe leaking. i never did like fixing radiators. i always think its cheaper to buy one. (recon) i know people will disagree with me. but its less pain in da butt on some other note i have notice lot of people removing the radiator heat valve, if its not there. put one. it will improve your fuel economy.

some times it can be the radiator cap, when the water get really hot, the cap opens and let some water goes back to the res-tank and if that get filled, if more goes out. making you run low on coolant and heat things up. normally caps are 0.9 bar, but using a 1.1 or 1.2 bar might help. the service manual have what type of bar u need. since the cap dont cost much. change it and see

1. check if you have a leak in your coolant system, maybe at high pressure it leaks (do a pressure check) 2. it can be simple as u have a bad radiator cap 3. maybe you have some blockages on your radiator 4. check if your FAN is running at the right RPM (speed) some bad fans may seem to run but slower 5. don't run with ONLY water, put little bit of coolant at least 6. bad belt 7. water pump fan going/gone bad hehe doing 3.5-4k RPM is really high, how much was the speed ? my EK3 CVT is around 2.5 when doing 120kmh also if you have air on your cooling system, this can happen as well. let the car cool down. open the cap. fill it with water, run the car with the cap open, see if the water is flowing. and let the air out.... fill it up as and when need.

lolz i know what you mean, will check the ECU, not that hard to do. but actually what i want to do was use a standard OBD2 diagnostic tool to run some gauges, that's why i was looking for the OBD2 port.

yeah i know... thats why im wondering what this is... shanX told me the car i mention is OBD2, but the connector is not. so im wondering what the connector is.

I'm totally lost here, does this look an OBD2 ? im sure ITS not. can some one tell me what is this connector ?

thanks a lot, does it comes with a standard OBDII connector ? i did look around but didn't find one.

Hey guys, i now this is bit lazy question. with out removing the ECU, i was wondering if 1999 Civic Ferio Mi LEV is ODB1 or OBDII as far as i know, the connector it has is NOT OBD type connector. anyway one with experience can enlightenme ?

http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/search/adjust/car/sp_domestic/select.php?mkcode=HONDA D15B H3.9～H7.9 BKR6ERX-11P 94915 BKR6EIX-11 4272 BKR6EIX-11P 2574 BKR6E-11 2756 98079-5614E 4 D15B (VTEC) H3.9～H7.9 BKR6ERX-11P 94915 ZFR6FIX-11 3668 ZFR6FIX-11P 3064 ZFR6J-11 5585 98079-5614P 4 D15B (VTEC-E) H3.9～H7.9 BKR5ERX-11P 93228 ZFR5FIX-11 3145 ZFR5FIX-11P 4620 ZFR5F-11 2262 98079-5514G 4

agreed, i think its an oil issue as well. make sure the level of oil is right. 25,000km ? Stafford says to do it ever 20,000 but its recommended for 15,000 if the car is normally driven in heavy traffic.

for CVT, Honda, its 20k what Honda (Stafford says) but recommend 15k since most of the time our cars are on a traffic but the engine keeps running so does the CVT. CVT gearbox's are like baby's need to keep them clean and changed i think you need around 4L of CVT oil, make sure its Honda CVT not ATF or any thing else. at tech motors its around 8000 for 4L

$20 is may not be cheap. there are few places that has Honda parts but not sure they will only give you the cover. U.S Motors - Dehiwala (Hill street) Singhe Motors - Delkada (Personally don't like the attitudes of the guys)