kalinga

its the Idel valve, its not keeping up, its known to go bad on EK3's

yeap, cone will give u some boost but, not true in many cases. and not really notable. and K&N are not really good for SL, since they can allow small dust partials to pass and can damage or need regulator cleaning of your O2 sensors (MAF) there are K&N for replacing the stock filter, only benefit is, u can wash them and clean and no need to buy another filter as long as you have the oil and cleaner. but EK3 good filters are around 1500 here's some thing interesting -

40k = good job, is bit hard to find. bubbles comes when, using bad filler, painting before fully drying. wrong mix of filler + paint best idea would be to fully strip the filler totally, redo the job. (make sure the pain guy do it when there is proper heat or has a pain booth) put more then 2 layers of pain and clear cote's if you want a proper shiny look. good descant job takes long time and money.

guess they f*up some wire or water damaged. this is NOT an issue with the gearbox.

guess your asking how to change the fuel + air mixture ? if its a cab one, u can do that with the jets it has... air + fule if its EFI, the ECU does the job with sensors, (02, Temp etc) but you can re-program the ECU with the right tools and chips but keep in mind, this things can go off, if you have dirty air cleaner. blocked injectors. bad O2 sensors etc

would be nice if you can put more info, like his phone number, location. cost etc.

we would also like to know that Dr...

yeah but 100k gone and one week warranty... but after one week, who knows u may wanted to spend 100k again...

not idea but dont here good things about him on this forum tho

never use that flush stuff, it WONT remove any blocks, even at places like radiator house, it only cost around 1500 for a cleaning the pips. on other note, last weekend one of my friends car got over heated out of the blue. he garage guy was swearing it was the gasket. luckily my friend called me and ask what to do, and i went there, we got the radiator cleaned. still the issue was there, again the garage guy was saying "see i told you, it was the gasket" but i was really sure it was NOT, and he has told my friend even the valve was opened when he removed it. took it to a friends garage thinking it was the water pump, since i has no trust in the other guy, but it was NOT the fan, finally even tho the other guy was saying the valve was fine, we tested it, what do you know! it was the valve after all. testing such things are simple, get some thing that can check the water temperature, (some thing like a cake temp prove) this one has 82c on the marking. so the valve should open at 80c, so we boiled some water, and put the valve in, waited till it comes to 80, no go 90 no go 100 no go so it was the valve

Upul, takes about 100,000 for the replacement.

ah oke... thought it was a new one

from where did you get it ?

i really cant recommend a place (but i can tell you NOT go to to radiator house) but since the radiator used cap will cost around rs250 in delkada, try one if that fix the issue, u can buy a good one from tech motors. high rev's in slow speeds can case the engine to heat up one thing to check is your reserve talk has a leak since your radiator was fixed, i guess it has a plastic head. most people cant get the seal to the way it was. so i maybe leaking. i never did like fixing radiators. i always think its cheaper to buy one. (recon) i know people will disagree with me. but its less pain in da butt on some other note i have notice lot of people removing the radiator heat valve, if its not there. put one. it will improve your fuel economy.

some times it can be the radiator cap, when the water get really hot, the cap opens and let some water goes back to the res-tank and if that get filled, if more goes out. making you run low on coolant and heat things up. normally caps are 0.9 bar, but using a 1.1 or 1.2 bar might help. the service manual have what type of bar u need. since the cap dont cost much. change it and see