nano31

Yes, very hard to find good condition CR42 these days, most of them were abused already. It has very high market these days! Nothing done on the injector pump

No black smoke at all, even at high rev All filters replaced with originals Engine heat about half of the max

I have recently got townace CR42 (original diesel, Auto, 3C EFI,NON turbo YOM 2006, milage 180k) got follwing issue. 1). I can not speed up above 100km/h I tried in express way but it kinda holding at 100km/h, no excessive engine noise/Revolution. Compaired with my good old CE110 auto, in which there is shifting to OD at 85km/h and can easily accelerate up to 140km/h but I can not feel the OD in my CR42 Apart from the apparent OD issue no other auto gear issue and gears are shifting smoothly. I have changed the ATF. Engine is not burning oil and in good condition 2.) Engine is not "racing" however much I pressed the paddle in the morning. Say if there is a uphill, van is very slowly moving with less engine acceleration inspite of the pressure on the accelerator but this soon fade after engine heatup.

lol..I have easily passed them down (panda) with my 19yr old CE110 in E1

ATF change would not completely cure the current problem you are experiencing yet will settle the symptoms! It will appear in few months time. Internal rubber oil seals are failing. But change the oil and watch full waiting is advised as it is cost effective at present and keep some money ready for near future GB repair.

Just check around the compressor and see if there is any oil leaks (AC gas is mixed with oil and oil leak indicate a gas leak) around the compressor. Is it gradual slow leak or sudden leak?

Internal o rings of the box might have gone. Better contact Chandana

After all I wanted to replace vacuum pump as there is nothing to change except ABS unit and brake lines which seems ok. Gotta one Rs 4000/=. All Brake issues are gone I should have done it early...

Nice pair of horn...what is the brand? I use mitsuba alpha with the stock relay

Does it have bleeding plug? What we did was reverse bleeding and vaccum bleeding

Pistop doesnt have that tool anymore. Did vaccum bleeding and reverse bleeding, some amount of air bubbles came out. Brake power improved. Still seems the initial few inches of brake paddle movement produse very little brake but at the last few inches have good brake power.

Thanks for advise , that is what I am going to do

ABS unit was not emptied deleberately and each and every time the MC also bench blead. Need to try scan tool with vaccum method.

Brake paddle is somewhat low still. Need to try vaccum method, it seems the vaccum pump used to bleed brake is a simple hand operated vaccum pump.

Not only the MC but all four wheel cylinders have been replaced, brake oil is very clean.

Each and every components except ABS unit have been replaced/repair including vaccum line. ABS working when hard braking applied yet hardly enough brake power to do so when exceedimg 40kmph!Paddle feeling as if air traped but all four lines had been blead untill no air bubbles appear! I have done google search and found "air traped in ABS unit". But none of local mechanics have no clue including a engineer from Toyota Lanka!

My is corolla ce110 1998 I have low brake power,for more specific answer I ll give the full story. It had very good brake power when I brought it 3 yrs ago. Had to replace master cylinder (MC) due to brake oil leakage but still had good brake power. Replace it with used Japanese MC and servo tank Then started to fall off the front brake pads even brake pads are 50% and found that brake rotars are worn out and replace it with used Japanese pair. Replaced the front brake calipers/pistons with used jap pair. Recently I replace rear brake cylinders with pistons brand new Thailand set. Again had very soft paddle with almost zero brake power and found that front rubber seals are gone and replace the rubber wìth Jap one and removed air paddle feeling improved but still brake very low. In summary, MC, servo tank, front brake calipers, all four brake pads/liners, rear brake cylinders, front brake roaters replaced. ABS working fine when required (but hardly any brake power to kik abs in) Paddle is still somewhat soft as if trapped air but all four wheels fushed to remove any trapped air. I had low brake since very first brake MC repair, this time it is very low with soft paddle. What would be the cause? Is it possible to trap air in abs unit and not remove during brake bleed? If so how to remove air from abs unit?

Well said!

This may be the most useful diy thread so far!

it is better to buy relatively newer 141 at lower price rather than buying highly overpriced 121

Gilbert does clarion too. Said to be a good brand Any reason to go for DVD? Video-You/Passengers would barely watch Map-Not really useful in Sri Lanka (just roll down window and ask) For resale value-You will not get For appearance-Yes it will do Reverse cam-Useful but at first point one should be able to reverse using thee mirrors Better go for good quality audio with USB/I pod/BT/Fm and fix some amp/Sub/Eq

I d think the Radio and Navi in Japanese audio system has very limited use here, You might have brought a used Japanese unit around ~20000(max) may be even better brand like Carrozzeria!

That is what you called a decent modification!

Talking with own experience? For my curiosity,how to check brand new one? Could not expect much of price difference whatever the source, I just gave the cheapest option; Just keeping my feet on the earth!

AFAIK drum and disk brake have same brake power as long as the surface area is the same Although Disks have little bit cooling efficiency over regular drum yet you will not gain anything significant under normal driving conditions (Those huge "Laylends" have drum with vacuum brake system!) Is it just brake power, why don't you restore your existing brakes (and save your money)? If you need a cosmetic mod, disk conversion might be an answer.