Davy
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Posts posted by Davy
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On 1/18/2024 at 3:44 PM, Gummybr said:
Hi @Davy after a long time I'm seeing an old timer, yes this would be a Laurel (C230). Take the floor sir.
Hi @Gummybr, Long time indeed. I just logged in after ages and I happened to stumble upon this good old thread and thought of tyring my luck. Still got it haha! 😁
Here you go...
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They are pretty reliable cars with little to no known or common issues. If the car has a verified service history and if it presents well maintained, then you don't have anything to worry about.
With some variants that had a Coil over Plug design, it is common for the ignition coils to go bad every 50K or so kilometres. But with the BJ5, the coil pack is mounted in front of the rocker cover, and is shared across all the cylinders if I'm not mistaken. So this problem doesn't apply.
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15 minutes ago, Gummybr said:
This one shouldnt be hard for you guys.
3rd gen Datsun Laurel (200L)?
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It's not normal.
The most likely cause is a blocked PCV valve which isn't serious. The PCV valve just needs to be cleaned and re-installed. However, I wouldn't expect the PCV valve to clog up on a car of this age unless there's sludge build up. So best take the rocker cover off and inspect that as well. Especially if you confirm the PCV is clogged. It could be that the PCV valve is stuck shut as well, which is uncommon but still a possibility.
If things are more serious (i.e. the PCV valve is fine), then it could be worn out piston rings.
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On 1/17/2023 at 12:54 AM, iRage said:
True..the entire rear is full of the Hydrogen tank but Toyota says they are working on minituarizing the Hydrogen components.
Best part is...THEY CAN DRIFT !
Saw this in the news. Pretty cool!
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16 hours ago, danu9 said:
It was an adhoc scan I did after a service.
The vehicle currently shows only U0155 Abnormal Communication with meter and instrument cluster
The meter and instrument panel works fine, but some multifunction buttons doesn't work sometimes
other two codes below are in history
U0100 Lost communication between Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and Engine Control Module (ECM)
U0101 Lost communication with Transmission Control Module
My guess then is that there is a loose connection under the dashboard. Was the dashboard taken apart at any point (stereo install, AC evaporator replacement etc.)?
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Been a while since I posted something on here. I have many projects going on at the moment and I thought the community would find this interesting. Especially you folks restoring classic cars.
I've been restoring one of my dream cars (more about that in a separate threads I guess), and due to the pandemic it has been really difficult to find timely electroplating services. The wait times range from 3 to 6 months just to submit plating jobs. So I decided to take matters into my own hands after seeing a couple of friends doing it with great success.
Unlike my usual DIY posts, this is not a step by step "how to", but sharing my experience and a few gotchas when electroplating at home.
I'll mainly be talking about Zinc plating, but most of what I've shared here is transferrable to Copper, Nickel and Gold plating as well.
Before I get started it must be said that plating involves dealing with hazardous chemicals and substances. So protective gear is a must, and ensuring that you work in a well ventilated area and keep children and pets away from your plating station.
I purchased a 10L Zinc plating kit from a local website which includes pretty much everything you need to get started including the power supply and an extremely detailed plating manual.
The next step is to set up the plating station. One of the challenges for me was to find a work surface large enough to be able to accommodate everything. I already had a couple of foldable tables and I set the station up on those. My garage is still a work in progress - so excuse the mess.
I got square 20L containers - a lot of them! And about 50L of distilled water cans (5L x 10). You should absolutely not use tap water for this as it contains Chlorine and other impurities that would cause poor plating and interfere with the electrolysis as well.
So once the station was setup, it looked like this:
The process of electrolysis can be broken down into several steps:
- Cleaning and degreasing the metal surface: The metal surface is cleaned and degreased to remove any dirt, oil, or other contaminants that may interfere with the plating process.
- Immersing the metal surface in the zinc plating solution: The cleaned metal surface is immersed in a solution containing zinc ions. The solution is usually an acidic solution of Zinc Sulphate or Zinc Chloride (my kit contains a Zinc Chloride powder to be mixed with distilled water to make the electrolyte).
- Applying an electric current: An electric current is applied to the zinc plating solution, causing the zinc ions to be attracted to the cathode (the metal surface being plated). The zinc ions deposit onto the surface of the cathode, forming a thin layer of zinc.
- Removing the plated parts: Once the plating process is complete, the parts are removed from the solution and rinsed to remove any excess zinc ions.
In my photo above the containers towards the left of the Zinc Plating bath are cleaning and prep solutions. I have a strong Hydrochloric Acid solution where corroded or previously electroplated items can be placed (while monitoring) for a while until rust and plating is removed.
What I do is use a wire wheel and then a paint stripper pad to polish the parts as best as I can so that the surface is nice and clean. I tried sand blasting some of the parts, but I was not a fan of the grainy texture which results in a dull finish. Cleaning it with a wire wheel and paint stripper disc gives any metal surface a nice shiny and clean finish which is what you want. It goes in the HCL acid for about 30 minutes after that.
Here's a photo of a bolt before and after cleaning with a wire wheel and paint stripper. The bolt on the right used to look like the bolt on the left. It actually looks like it's already Zinc plated!
Preparation is definitely key!
After the HCL acid dip, the part is taken out and rinsed in a distilled water bath for a few seconds. Next, it goes into a detergent bath which is sort of a soapy water solution. A toothbrush is used to brush every nook and cranny of the part and then it goes into another distilled water rinse. Then it goes into a second distilled water rinse as the first rinse could contain impurities from the detergent.
From this point onwards, you cannot touch the plating parts. In fact, you shouldn't touch them with bare hands after the HCL bath. Wear gloves and even with gloves, handle the part with extreme care and ensure water does not bead on the part. Use copper wire and secure the part so that it can be hung in the electrolyte.
Next comes the most interesting part - the actual plating. Lay the aluminium bars on the top of the bath and connect to the power supply as covered in setting up your bath.
Check the Zinc Plating chemical temperature. It should be operated at a temperature of 25C - 30C to achieve the best results. I used a cheap aquarium heater set at 28C to ensure that the bath is always within the optimum temperature range. I also use a small aquarium pump to ensure the electrolyte is moving around - this ensures an even plating. Especially if the part is odd shaped.
Connect the power supply and wire up the leads. The zinc anodes are hung on the positive line and the plating work is hung on the cathode.
How long you leave them in is up to you. Recommend between 45 and 60 mins. After you place them parts, ensure all connections are secure and switch the power supply on. As a rule, approximately 1A of current is needed for 160cm² of plating surface. You should see a fine fizzing from the plating parts after a few minutes. Excessive fizzing is bad and it means you are running too much current.
Here I have a few bolts and washers being plated.
When you remove zinc items from the bath, it goes into another distilled water rinse. You should absolutely not touch the parts with your hands, but just hold them via the Copper wire used to hang them.
Looking good so far!
Next it goes to an Activator (called METEX IT). This brightens up the hardware and preps them for the gold passivate. Move the parts around in METEX IT for 30 seconds. Afterwards, it goes again into a (new) distilled water rinse.
The Gold Passivate the is the tub with the orange liquid (looks like Fanta lol) on the right most corner of the bench. The parts go in there for about 20 second (5 to 30 seconds recommended - the longer you have it there, the stronger the gold colour). Move it around gently.
Finally it goes to another (new) distilled water rinse. But this time you only dip the parts once and take them out.
Then hang them to dry and admire your work!
Here's more parts I have plated so far (mainly suspension nuts and bolts) and the bracket kinda thing you see is a trunk lock mechanism.
I'm extremely happy with how the parts turned up. I must admit that the first couple of tries were unsuccessful and I had to plate again. But practice makes perfect. There are a few variables that can go wrong, if you stick to it, you can't go wrong.
That trunk lock used to look like this before cleaning and plating:
Hope you enjoyed reading that as much as I did writing it up! Cheers!-
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Welcome to the forum Dallas!
As TT said, it's a Transmission Warning light.
Get a diagnostic scan done, and that will reveal the error code. Since it's an intermittent issue, my assumption is that it's a faulty solenoid, or it could be bad or low transmission fluid if you have not done a transmission service in a while.
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I'd like to understand what prompted the scan. Was there a Check Engine light an when did the light come on (after a recent repair/service or just randomly)?
The CAN Bus connecting the PCM and ECM is like the central nervous system of your car. The first thing I would advice checking if there is a blown fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. It should be located on the passenger side in the engine bay just near the battery.
If a repair was done, or if the engine bay was washed using high pressure water, it could be that a connector was improperly re-connected or developed rust inside causing a disconnection. From briefly seeing under the bonnet of a Raize when I was in SL, I do remember that the ECU CAN Bus wire harness was just near the battery, on a metal bracket (in fact, I think it was the ECU there as well).
Since this is a CAN Bus related issue, if the fix is not obvious, I strongly recommend taking the car to Toy#ta L#nka to have them investigate using their proprietary tools as they might be able to isolate the issue better compared to a generic scanner.
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2 hours ago, iRage said:
😮 There is more than ONE ???!!!!
Apparently so!
2 hours ago, iRage said:3. Toyota's explanation is that for certain parts and features (like the Display Audio system) there is a shortage of chips and other components. FOr example....a GRY RZ High Performance and RZ will take nearly one year. But a stripped down RC can be had within 5 months. Then for a standard Yaris...if you get the car in specific configuration and single color it can be had in 3-4 months but if you want the same car in two tone will take nearly 7. (at least that was the case as of early December last year)
Interesting. Makes sense now given that many contacts of mine who have placed orders with Toyota had to wait nearly a year, and some even settled for lower trim levels as they were able to ship them out faster.
2 hours ago, iRage said:Eitherway, we are seeing the last of its kind with these types of cars. CTR is to go Electric/Hybrid the next time around. Corolla sports cars will be the same (their Rally1 Hybrid GRY was revealed over the weekend...so that is just going to keep evolving).
Also, some of Toyota's marketing material indicates that they might go down the Hydrogen route for the GRC.
https://www.toyota.com.au/the-latest/ensuring-the-future-of-gr-corolla-through-super-taikyu
https://toyotagazooracing.com/supertaikyu/drivers/2022/
Having just discovered about Taikyu, it looks like the Civic Type R is dominating in it's class.
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On 1/14/2023 at 2:58 AM, iRage said:
This guy was/is in the GR Yaris groups. Gets heckled 50% of the time, congratulated for 20% of the time and scolded 30% of the time
Must be a different guy. The one I mentioned is someone I personally know (he's the guy who owns the garage working on my Skyline). Not active on social media. I told him to let me know when he decides to sell lol
On 1/14/2023 at 2:58 AM, iRage said:With the GR Corolla it is strange. Toyota never intended it to be an exclusive model. But because of production issues the GRC is going to be rarer than the GRY so that is going to drive prices up the roof.
This is true. I wonder what's up with production issues though. Probably in the engine, drivetrain departments because the chassis is basically the base Corolla with a few mods.
On 1/14/2023 at 2:58 AM, iRage said:Then...to the dismay and annoyance of every GR Yaris owner in JPN, they released a RS grade which is FWD has a 1.5L 3 cylinder engine and CVT from the standard Yaris.
Wow... I understand why GRY owners would be upset. This totally blurs the line between the Yaris and the GRY.
On 1/14/2023 at 2:58 AM, iRage said:Are you sure you are talking about the "grey" ? Precious metal is sort of a silverish grey that is a bit dark.
Yep. Here's a screenshot from the Toyota NZ website. Certainly not the matte grey available on the Morizo. Between black and this colour, I think I would pick this.
On 1/14/2023 at 2:58 AM, iRage said:Here is the thing....the GRC and GRY are fun cars and the GRC (based on Japanese reviews) is much milder than the GRY and made for track or amateur rallying (Toyota revealed the Rally1 and Rally2 GRYs today and they look pretty killer). Here is the thing though..niether car is as refined as the Evo and newer STI/WRXs. The GRY is reminiscent of the old gen 1 and gen 2 WRXs and Evo 4s and 5s. Where the AWD system is concerned...again..simply not as sophisticated and capable as the Evo and WRX systems. It is quite capable..but is prone to snap understeer (the reason why a LOT of GRYs have been totalled). Simple explanation for it is that it simply does not have a center diff to neutralize differences in rotation of the two axles. Yes....do we have an AWD Japanese car ? Yes....but the Evo and WRX will be missed.
Agreed. The all wheel drive system on the GRY or the GRC is nowhere as sophisticated as the Mitsubishi's S-AWC system which had an active centre differential, active yaw control etc. But I do like the direction Toyota has taken in allowing the car to be transformed with the GR-Four system having three modes of torque split. And the engineering behind it (again, although isn't as sophisticated to that of the Evo or STi), is inspired IMO.
I guess it will come to personal preference in the end about the CTR vs The GRC. This might turn out to be another Evo vs STi rivalry. Who knows...
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7 hours ago, iRage said:
I suppose there isn't much to discuss? The Americans are going crazy over it as this is their first experience with the power and drive trains. The Japanese' attitude towards it is more subdued and is seen as a grown-up version of the GR Yaris. Whilst the GRC is more friendly for long haul runs and track days, the GR Yaris is more harsh and suited for rallying. There are no GRCs in Japan for test drives and the only ones available are a few test mules which are making the rounds across the country and also been given to the usual car testers.
I do not like the way it looks, granted I admit it does look a lot better in person. At the end of the day the physical design looks like an after-thought where someone took a standard Corolla and stuck plastic body parts on it. The WRX, Evo X, etc...all had bespoke, nicely sculptured and integrated body panels. Black is the most agreeable color IMO.
For Japan, the original plan was to have 100 Morizo editions sold by lottery and the standard grade RZ (which is equivalent to the circuit package in export markets) as a free for all standard catalog model. However, due to production issues, Toyota decided to sell even the RZ grade on lottery (just 500 for Japan for the first batch of deliveries). Lottery applications went on from 2nd to 18th December. Lottery for the Morizo edition was drawn and prospective owners notified last Friday. The RZ grade lottery gets drawn next Monday to something. So....the biggest issue with the GRC is going to be supply. If you want one...you are going to have to wait for a long time indefinitely. By which time, I would not be surprised if the owners of the first deliveries will be flipping them for a markup (in Japan the biggest issue is resellers buying these cars up from the manufacturer for resale at high markups, seen it with the Land Cruiser 300, Fairlady Z and even the new Type R). As it stands, Japan is set to see deliveries start around summer (500 in total) and then similar batches every 2nd quarter or so (if one was to apply for the second round of lottery they will see the car around Q2 2024)
Personal opinion about the car: No matter what is said and done it simply does not bring any memories of the old Corolla GTs or Levins or the Corolla TRD racers, even though Toyota likes to draw parallels. It is a completely different beast built up on a Corolla platform using a bespoke high-power engine (in fact the turbo charged 1.2L Corolla has more of a feel of the old school Corolla GTs). As mentioned before, the engine's power delivery seems to have been smoothened out compared to the GR Yaris and is helped by slightly different gearing. Apart from that the GRC exibits characteristics of a typical longer wheel-base car as opposed to the shorter wheel-based GRY (how the car pivots, point and degree of understeer, etc...). The GRC does have dynamic drive mode selection system that the GRY does not have (steering weight, accelerator response, etc... can be changed to NORMAL, SPORT or CUSTOM).
As a daily livable car, I do find the Civic Type R more appealing. The interior feel and refinement of the materials are a lot lot better. Also, the gear throws are much nicer in the Civic than in the GRYaris (and thus the GRC). Compared to the GRC, the CTR feels more roomier and has light coming in through these things called windows
The GRC and the GRY are very dark inside thanks to the acres and acres of dull black plastic and the interior shape
Do I want one? I was hoping I would fall in love with it when I saw it...sadly it wasn't so (I had to try real hard to convince myself I wanted one...)
Finally I did go to apply for the lottery. Interestingly, I was talked out of it (here is the kicker) by the GR Garage and Toyota dealership guys ! Their view was that I should hold on to the GRY as there is no guarantee when I could or if I would ever get a GRC (I went to apply on the morning of the 3rd of December, less than 12 hours after the lottery applications opened and there were already 5600+ applicants). Their other point was that the driving experience will not be that much different than the GRY and the greatest and only benefit will only be the practicality.
The RZ, with Toyota Safety Sense (the full suite is only offered as an option in Japan), the JBL sound package with some unwanted techie stuff, carpets and visors came to 5.8 million yen (which includes tax and registration). For reference, the GR Yaris similarly spec'd came it at 5.2mil yen and the Civic Type R at 5.6 mil yen (granted the Civic had a lot more accessories as standard).
Instead...ended up getting a standard Corolla (as they had one that they could give in less than 2 weeks...on going delivery time for a standard Corolla is 10 months). AND....went and signed up for a Civic Type R...which I may or may not get...in 3-4 years time....go figure.
Why 3-4 years ?
Well..both the GR Yaris and Civic Type R have officially closed the order books. Toyota does not accept anything for the GR Yaris (even the catalogs are gone but the model has not officially been stopped) whilst Honda gives out non-committal contracts to be on a waiting list. Delivery time for the GR Yaris is nearly one year. CTR on the other hand...orders from pre-launch to November will be delivered through-out the next 1.5 years-2 years. Factor in the waiting list, my delivery time would be closer to 3 years.
Very interesting thoughts mate. Thanks!
The GR Yaris has actually taken Australian motoring enthusiasts by storm. We got around 1700 cars here, and once sales stopped, there was still more demand for the car, so the dealerships pushed for Toyota to release more cars (in late 2022) and sales re-opened for another 160 cars (just 160!), and they were only available to order through a selected few dealers across the country.
While this is happening, we do have a few current owners of the GRY trying to make a quick buck by listing their cars for crazy prices (nearly 1.5 times the original price). So this I guess happens everywhere. In the mean time, I know a guy who bought a GRY and has stored it in a garage (without even driving, registering or even taking the plastic off the seats), so that he can one day sell it for a profit. It's crazy how people are toying with the demand for the car.
With the GR Corolla, I believe this will be significantly magnified, and in fact the buzz on social media has been impressive, there were so many people who paid a deposit for the GRC to various Toyota dealerships around the country, only to be later refunded on instruction by Toyota as they decided to go for a ballot just like you've explained happened in Japan.
Grades... With the GR Yaris, we get two variants here. The base GR Yaris, and the limited edition GR Yaris Rallye (only 200 cars for the Australian market - each numbered). Some verified new sources mention that it will be the same for the GR Corolla as well. These two, plus a handful of Morizo editions only offered to hardcore enthusiasts who apparently will be interviewed by Toyota prior to determining if they can buy one!
As for appearance, I was never a fan of Toyota designs a few years ago. The Corolla (NZE161) was absolutely hideous along with many other cars of the same era. But I feel like some of their new cars have actually become nicer. You don't feel like you want to throw up when you see one. 😁 However, the plastic stuck on the side of the GRC to make the rear doors match up with the wider rear end does seem like an afterthought. And the big black grille and accents is certainly controversial, and I agree a darker colour would definitely mask some of it as you said. I think the grey (called Precious Metal) looks sick! Having said all of this, looks is a subjective thing. Each to their own.
The CIVIC Type R is such a nice looking car. So refined compared to the outgoing model which received so much hate because of the way it looks. From what I've seen so far, it seems well put together - the interior looks amazing, has pretty much the same power figures as the GRC, more cylinders etc... but.... all wheel drive over front wheel drive for me. No doubt about it. 🙂 Mainly because the Civic struggles to put it's 315 horsepower down to the road given that it has to do it through just the front wheels. Unless you have semi slicks or something, won't get close to the way the GR Corolla is able to put down the 300 horsepower it's got. Sure, during a daily drive you're never going to notice the difference.
My excitement for the GR Corolla is because when the Evo and STi were around, we had the option of choosing a rally bred 4 door, 5 seater, all wheel drive car. A car that we can comfortably daily, a car that is not as expensive to buy or maintain like the Golf R or Audi RS3. I believe Toyota has hit the nail in the head with the GRC in that regard. We now have an option. All hope isn't lost.
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On 9/2/2022 at 9:41 AM, iRage said:
Pricing for the GR Corolla is due around the 7th of September with additional data on the 14th. There are rumors on the internet on the prices but those are more or less rumors and so far nothing official (so it might be right it might be wrong).
Was wondering why this was not discussed more here!!
I've been closely following the release of the GR Corolla and I'm so excited for this car to arrive in Australia. Since Mitsubishi and Subaru are out of the game, I really don't see any other (Japanese) alternative to this rally inspired, all wheel drive hot hatch. It fetches a hefty price tag though.
It was released in New Zealand just a few days ago and we have pictures circulating in Australian forums of multiple examples of the car having arrived at ports here to be shipped to dealerships!
Never thought I'd say this about a Corolla - but DAMN! 😍
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Agree with the other responses made here already about sticking with the 3C. As others have already mentioned, if your overheating started after converting it to automatic transmission, then it certainly could be with tuning as @Gummybr said (and by tuning I mean ECU tuning). If the ECU was not swapped or reprogrammed to suit the automatic transmission, it would definitely be inefficient in working with an auto.
Another possibility could be that the radiator on the car is of insufficient capacity now that the ATF lines are plumbed into it. This is consistent with what you describe is happening as the car would stay in overdrive when you are driving on flat ground around 60 km/h.
On 1/11/2023 at 2:34 PM, john cooper said:"reconditioned" word used in SL incorrectly for parts used in Japan. That's BS to me when some part sellers on the Island mentioned "reconditioned" 😁😁
Couldn't agree more. The most (incorrectly) overused word when it comes to spare parts in Sri Lanka. It's funnier when sellers use it with parts that can't even be reconditioned, such as sealed ignition coils.
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Wishing everyone a happy new year! Drive safe!
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I don't think there's anything wrong here to be honest. Because you're using the real-time average fuel consumption on the dashboard and come to your own assumption that the car is being 30% less fuel efficient. That is not a correct observation and assessment.
A car can consume around 20% more fuel with AC running. This depends on a lot of factors - even traffic conditions and outside temperature.
- What you should be doing is this:
- Fill up full tank. Ask the pump attendant not to continue after first auto-cut-off.
- Reset trip meter. Switch off AC
- Drive for at least 25km (so that your car consumes more than 2 liters as you say that your car usually does 10km/l)
- Fill up full tank. Follow same procedures as first step.
- Note the number of litres pumped and trip meter reading. Calculate km/l
- Reset the trip meter. Turn on the AC.
- Drive for at least 25km with AC on (same route would be ideal)
- Fill up full tank. Follow same procedures as first step.
- Note the number of litres pumped and trip meter reading. Calculate km/l
- Compare the numbers
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16 hours ago, Rasika Praz Silva said:
Have you guys got rim Protectors installed on wheels? As per Technician at Stafford Maradan, these seem to give headache with false positive type pressure warning. Asked them to remove in that case.
I can't see how rim protectors would affect the TPMS system. If I'm not mistaken, the Civic and HR-V share the same "indirect" TPMS where it measures rotational speed of each wheel to determine if any of them have a diameter different than the preset value.
If you are seeing the TPMS warning light on the dash, it could mean that your TPMS needs to be re-calibrated. Inflate all four tyres to the factory specified pressure and initiate the TPMS calibration procedure as outlined in the owner's manual (it includes holding the TPMS button on the dash for a few seconds to start the process).16 hours ago, Rasika Praz Silva said:Also, what's the average KMS driven with original set of tyres on your Cevic? My car done around, 32250km and Stafford advise me to replace tyres. I know some tyres wear out more compare to others. Not keen to replace all as I expect to long last more than 30k
30K kms seems pretty normal to me. Remember that your driving style, and driving conditions, tyre pressure and wheel alignment affect tyre wear.
16 hours ago, Rasika Praz Silva said:Anyone starts getting engine warning in orange colour after fill up with Octane 92? Due to shortage of Octane 95 fuel, I had filled up with Octane 92 last week😒
I've been saying this for ages, but I think the quality of 92 octane fuel in SL is questionable. So if your car requires 95, I'd highly recommend you stick to it.
As for the Check Engine light, get a diagnostic scan done on the car to determine what the actual error code is. That will reveal what needs to be addressed.-
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On 4/15/2022 at 7:05 PM, Hussain Yousuf said:
hello,
my issue is my battery down within 4 days if I will not drive daily bases if I remove backup fuse I will not issue I that case so please suggest if I remove backup fuse permanently what happen in next in long term base.
Hi Hussain, Welcome to the forum!
I'm not sure what you meant by "backup fuse", but permanently removing the fuse is only addressing the symptom and not the actual problem. So I'd advise against doing this.
It sounds like there is parasitic current draw from your battery while the car is switched off. You can easily check this using a multimeter. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that you can follow to learn how to test it yourself. A modern car with an ECU would draw between 50mA - 80mA. Anything more than this is not normal.
If you discover that there is parasitic draw, then the circuit connected to the "backup fuse" is probably the culprit and you need to figure out where the issue is as you say that it stops draining the battery while the fuse it out. If your car has an aftermarket stereo, amplifier, security system etc. installed on this circuit - these are the things I'd recommend that you try disconnecting first as points of investigation.
Good luck!
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6 hours ago, Hyaenidae said:
Well, not sure if this one could be repaired...
Hope the owner had adjusted the insurance to the current market value because I definitely haven't
Wow. Hope everyone is okay.
Looks like a write-off to me as because the pillars are damaged. But who are we do judge... in a few months this car might roam the roads again as an "accident-free" car.
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10 minutes ago, Hyaenidae said:
But it could be a legit evo running on a Lancer EX CR, right?
You're right. I guess that's the likely case.
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On 1/17/2022 at 1:46 AM, yasas silva said:
iam not 100% sure but this is just a vague guess. maybe its a evox swapped and 90% facelifted lancer
On 1/18/2022 at 1:42 AM, K.o.N.o.S said:I think this is a legit Evo X GSR, I remember seeing this on a quick site for sale sometime back for around 6.5 Mil ( before the Pandemic). The Interior 👇
It's a converted Lancer EX according to RMV vehicle info. Chassis number starts with CY2A.
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Welcome to the forum!
The flashing HOLD indicator suggests an electrical issue in your transmission. Although your ATF is okay, you need to take your car to a good automatic transmission expert (suggest Mazna motors in Attidiya as they are experts in Mazna), and get your automatic transmission's valve body serviced and change the fluid with a new filter.
As transmissions age, the o rings and solenoids inside the transmission wear out and cause loss in fluid pressure that cause gears to not engage. As the transmission warms up, the o-rings expand and becomes relatively supple to seal any leaks causing the transmission to work as normal.
Good luck!
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2 hours ago, Isuru Madhusankka said:
I have a 2008 mazda demio. Idle rpm is around 600rpm. When I turn the AC on while idling, car is little bit shaky and rpm does not go up. Is this normal??
Welcome to the forum!
Idle RPM sounds normal. It's meant to be 650 - 700.
But if the car vibrates when the AC kicks in, that is not normal. The IACV (Idle air control valve) should compensate for the additional load by seamlessly to maintain a proper idle RPM.
The most common reason for this is carbon build up in the throttle body and IACV. Poor fuel quality in SL and harsh driving conditions tend to cause excessive carbon build up in the intake, and periodic cleaning is required.
So here are a few questions:
- How long ago did you get a fuel system clean-up (i.e. "tune up") done?
- Does the vibration happen in Neutral as well? Or does it happen mainly in gear?
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Welcome to the forum!
19 hours ago, Alevtina said:crazy tuk tuk driver
Most of them are
Unfortunately you'll have to take it to a couple of paint shops and get a couple of quotes as it could vary depending on the extent of the repair. Just looking through the photos, the front guard scratch and the top circle in the first photo should be fairy simple, but it looks like the blue sticker is also scratched (first photo, bottom circle).
Can you not claim it on insurance? Just tell them that you lost control and tipped over and they'll assess damage and even recommend a garage to carry out the repair.
Good luck!
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Quick Trivia 3
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Correct! Over to you mate.