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Everything posted by Davy

  1. Can think of a few members who will flip seeing this .
  2. Whoa! That looks amazing! Thanks for sharing!
  3. Thank you so much for the offer. Will sure do. πŸ‘
  4. Check out the below discussion for contacts that you might find helpful.
  5. Anyone else a fan of 3Dbotmaker?
  6. Glad to help. Please send me a PM and I'll see if I can assist further.
  7. Looking through the errors in the screenshots you've shared above, it looks like there are quire a few errors. The first thing suggest is stop driving the car. If your brake pedal is sinking to the floor, you shouldn't be driving it as it can cause a serious accident. Get your 12V battery checked out first. Looking at some of the errors, it could be a faulty ABS pump among a lot of other things. But it's hard to say without knowing the history of the car or having a closer inspection. May I ask if the car was ever involved in an accident? Also, did the car undergo a brake repair recently? The car also appears to be having several electrical faults related to the power window motors and switches. If I were you, I'd just put the car on a flatbed and take it to the agent to have all of those issues rectified at once.
  8. I don't have that one I'm afraid. It's a bit of a controversial book from my understanding and was almost banned due to perceived racism in the artwork as well as dialogues. Two other books are Tintin and Alph Art and Tintin in the Land of the Soviets which I'd love to own. The former was never finished because HergΓ© passed away before that. However, the unfinished work was published as a book. Would love to collect all three.
  9. Hi Thamari, Welcome to the forum. I have merged your two threads to one as they are about the same problem. This actually doesn't read like a message shown in a scanner, so I assume that this bit of text was sent to you by whoever scanned the car. Anyway, the gist of it is that it looks like the brake master pump has been replaced on your car, and the proper brake fluid bleeding procedure has not been carried out after that. The Prius requires carrying out a sequence of steps on a diagnostic scanner to properly bleed the braking system. So even if the brakes were bled in the conventional way, the car wouldn't "know" it was done to re-calibrate the ABS and VSC systems. Take your car to Toyota Lanka and have them perform the brake bleed procedure and clear the DTCs. This should sort out your issue. Watch the below video to get an idea about the brake bleed procedure: Again... this is assuming that my interpretation of your above text is correct. Good luck!
  10. Yeah, some of them are from the 70s and 80s. Most of them are from the 90s. πŸ™‚ Oldest one is from 1972 - King Ottokar's Sceptre (seen above). "The Making of Tintin - In the World of INCA" is probably one of the rarest along with "Making of Mission to the Moon". You'd be lucky to find one for less than 100 USD. Just letting you know of the value of that book. Treasure it like gold! πŸ™‚ In the early 2000s, the publishers switched to digital fonts which was quite disappointing. So if you buy brand new books, they have a digital font and looks nothing like the original hand-written Hyslop lettering. The earlier books are highly sought after.
  11. Most regular owners don't bother keeping detailed records (invoices etc.). The only hard copy that's typically available is the vehicle service booklet with the stamp, date and signature confirming that periodic services have been carried out. It's the same booklet that @Sampath Gunasekera has shared in one of his photos above. Some enthusiasts of course keep detailed records of the car. If it's a unique car or one that has a following people do keep folders of detailed service history to prove that all major services and repairs have been carried out properly. I'm one of them. The workshop gives a pretty detailed invoice and description of work carried out, so I just file it as is. Doesn't require any special effort and the information in there speaks for itself.
  12. If it's heard when the car is started and not moving, it's likely to be the brake caliper pins issue which is a common issue in the Viva Elite. It could be a combination of worn out engine mounts transmitting the vibration to the wheels which have worn out caliper pins. Take your car to a garage and check the condition of these. Read up about the issue in the Viva Elite Community thread. You might also want to go through this thread to find out information about the car and post any of your future questions. Good luck!
  13. Welcome to the forum! Since there's an error indicator on the dashboard, the first point in tracking down the issue would be getting a diagnostic scan done. That will reveal the issue and point you in the right direction to address it.
  14. Great thread after a while! Definitely nudged the inner kid in me. Will give this a try. That is amazing! I can only imagine the time you must have spent on this. Moving to another country sort of pressed the reset button on all my hobbies including the stuff I have been collecting. As a kid, I collected: - HotWheels. I had about 50 or 60 of them. My parents forced me to give them away to my much younger cousins, and I did. I couldn't let go of two of my favourites though. A 80s T-Bird (AKA Hot Bird) and a 80s Dixie Challenger. I still have them somewhere in a box back home. - Diecast models (1:18 scale) About 6 cars and 6 motorcycles. All Maisto. Not really a collection. All back home in boxes. - Vintage video games/consoles. My first ever console was one that belonged to my father. A 1980s Atari 2600. Got a couple of Nintendo Game n Watches as well as the ever popular Casio handheld games. I may have had about 10 in total - not really a collection. Then I got a Nintendo Entertainment System, A SEGA Genesis (AKA Sega Mega Drive) and a FAMICOM as well for some reason. The SEGA was again given to the same "younger cousins" mentioned above but I still have the NES. The FAMICOM stopped working with the notorious control pad jack issue. I was missing the NES so badly so I bought two consoles just a few years ago. The NES Mini and the SNES mini. Now I don't have to feel like flying back to Sri Lanka whenever I want to play a vintage video game. These are the only consoles I have with me ATM. Hoping to complete the mini consoles collection someday. . - TINTIN The entire collection of paperback books. Some books are from the 70s and ones my father was gifted by my grandparents. This is one of my most treasured collections and the only collection I brought with me to Australia. I also had several car brochures because a few of my relatives were working for D*MO and Unit3d M0tors. I have shared some of them in our Car Catalogues and Brochures thread several years ago.
  15. Davy

    Project A72V

    The A72 is rear wheel drive with the engine oriented inline (front - back) with two mounts on either side and one more just above the transmission. Most if not all 4G1X engines were on front wheel drive cars, and the engine oriented transversely (left - right). So it would not be a simple job IMO. In addition to finding engine mounts or fabricating them, the transmission bell housing will have to be changed to suit. Having said that, I have seen A72/A73 Lancers with 4G63T swaps as well as Mazda rotary engines in them, so you're only limited by your imagination and of course budget. Given the choice, I'd opt for the original carburettor 4G33 any day. They are very reliable. πŸ™‚
  16. Davy

    Project A72V

    Job well done! Hats off! Brings back so many memories of my father and I taking apart this carburettor and putting it back together. As for the Auto choke, my car never had one. Most of the mechanics who looked into it said that it must have been removed by a previous owner. Without the Auto Choke, cold starts were difficult, but then after taking apart the carburettor and after consulting several experts, we learnt to live without it. The trick was to pump the throttle twice, pull the manual choke under the dash, rest the foot on the throttle and crank the engine. As soon as it starts, give it two light blips and she continues to idle okay. My father and I were the only ones who could get the car to start first go on cold mornings, 😁
  17. Davy

    Project A72V

    It has a carburettor. What do you think? πŸ˜† True that. My father and I may have taken the carburettor apart several times, and we would sometimes struggle for days without success. It would either idle poorly or have trouble starting up in the morning or have flooding issues. Finally when it was time to restore, my mechanic did an immaculate job restoring the carburettor. He even taught me how to do a simple tune and set the screws properly for idle and fuel. Good carb experts are hard to come by these days, so certainly helps to know how to take them apart and rebuild them. Easier said than done of course. Glad the manual is helping. πŸ˜‰ Certainly handy to have around when you are taking a carburettor apart.
  18. When I purchased my CS3 in 2008, it only had the receipt from UM for the most recent service. What I did was submit the car to UM for a check-up after feeling pretty sure that I might be buying it. At the inspection, I was able to verify the car's history with records at UM. So I didn't hesitate. This is to point out that there might be alternatives to finding out the vehicle history if it's not physically available with the seller. When I had to sell the CS3, it had a folder full of service records, every bill, every nut and bolt I've spent money on. On top of that, it had more emissions test certificates than the number of educational and professional certificates I have. 😝 And I had people queuing up to buy the car. In Australia, service records do play quite an important role, especially in circles of enthusiasts. There are also important regulations that prevent cars in poor condition from switching owners. Cars are subject to a mandatory roadworthy inspection before transfer, and in most cases, buyers go for ones with a roadworthy certificate (as opposed to buying without one and spending money fixing issues which is risky), which indicates all inspections have been done and the car is good to be put on the road. This however doesn't guarantee whether the car is mechanically sound, but does eliminate cars with obvious issues. In addition, even the oldest cars on the road usually have their service booklet in the glove box and is the first thing an average buyer would check. In Sri Lanka, there's quite a bit of odometer tampering, dodgy grey imports, cut and bud jobs, badly repaired cars that should have been written off and even situations like people forging documents and selling cars they have rented as if they were their own. So it makes sense to be extra vigilant. If the car has a proven service history, that is a good indicator that it's legit. Maintaining service records just might be the deciding factor of the price of the car and how quickly someone will take the car off your hands when it comes time to part with it.
  19. Please search the forum. The Gen 2 has been discussed numerous times. Search results click here.
  20. It's called the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) or Idle Control Valve for short. Some call it the Idle Control Solenoid. In Mitsubishi workshop manuals, it's referred to as the Stepper Motor. If you're looking for the parts in local shops, just say Idle Control Valve. You should be able to find a reconditioned one in Delkanda area. Or call Mahinda on 0714762223 and ask him if he has them in stock. RPM fluctuation when the AC compressor switches on/off might also be due to a sticking IACV. So you should first remove it from the throttle body and clean it (the plunger section) with contact cleaner. Spray the cleaning liquid to a clean rag and wipe clean instead of directly spraying onto the IACV as Mitsubishi IACVs that come on these engines are highly susceptible to damage when cleaning liquid enters the motor chamber. Good luck!
  21. Good info! Thanks for sharing mate. πŸ‘ I just remembered that I had a CD ages ago for the Lancer CS where it had Technical bulletins and videos of how to conduct diagnostics - sort of like training videos from Mitsubishi. It was given to me by a trusty automotive engineer who had ties with Mitsubishi. It was probably for internal use only (just like this software is I'm sure).
  22. This is a common scanner re-branded by various manufacturers. According to the website of this particular one, the this scanner supports the following protocols: ISO 9141, KWP2000, SAE J1850, CAN (see list below), J1850 VPW, J1850 PWM It also lists the following CAN protocols: ISO15765-4 CAN(11bit ID,500 Kbaud) ISO15765-4 CAN(29bit ID,500 Kbaud) ISO15765-4 CAN(11bit ID,250 Kbaud) ISO15765-4 CAN(29bit ID,250 Kbaud) I believe all 2005+ export market Nissans use CAN. So it should work with your scanner. But as @Crosswind said, the protocols vary based on which market the car is made for. You can make a guess as to which protocol it uses by checking the pins in your OBD port. You can also try a firmware update of the scanner. The website (link above) has a "System Upgrade" menu which when clicked, takes you here. KW680 is among the compatible devices, and the version has been released just last month. Download and follow instructions in your user manual to install.
  23. Davy

    Project A72V

    Well done! πŸ‘ It has to be the water pump, because that belt doesn't drive anything else, and since the alternator bearing is new. While you had the timing belt cover off for the repair, it would have been wise to replace the water pump as well. These engines come with a water pump that has a steel impeller that corrodes over time. So if the pump has not been replaced for a long time, I suggest putting in a new one. As for buying good tools, I have learnt from my mistakes as well. In your case, the actual torque wrench might have been okay, but the seller was not. If it was eBay, you can lodge a dispute and get your money back.
  24. That is a nice looking GT. Good luck with the purchase.
  25. Cheers mate. Good question. The belts are pretty tight to begin with, and they rarely slip in the direction of rotation unless they are really REALLY slack. So a bit of liquid between the belt and pulleys is not going to cause it to slip. Squealing noises in most cases are due to lateral movement of the belt or because the ribs being slightly off from the grooves on the pulleys as the belt sits on them. I believe the liquid "cushions" the movement which results in the noise being eliminated. Water is the safest to use because WD40 can degrade rubber. But a little bit of it won't hurt IMO. Oh and, WD40 make belt dressings, specifically to be applied on drive belts. I haven't tried them, but the liquid apparently has fibres in it that fill up the gaps and stops belt squeal.
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