Davy

Thank you! Sorry for the delay. Busy weekend. The floor is open to anyone. ?

The first Citroen C3?

If the battery was disconnected during the tune up, the higher RPM could be due to the ECU being reset. Driving a few dozen kilometres should cause the RPM to settle. It's normal for the RPM to fluctuate slightly when load on the engine changes (i.e AC compressor or steering activity). 200 is above what I would call normal, but this too could be due to the ECU re-learning. Just out of curiosity, what was done as part of the tune up? Was the Idle Air Control Valve cleaned?

The MARS branded Audi style headlights look good, but from what I've heard from owners who have installed them, they're horrible when it comes to light output. The OEM projectors are apparently the best. It's a pity Mitsubishi didn't offer projector headlamps as standard. Even the Evo X didn't get them after 2010 or so. None of the Final Editions I've seen has them. They totally change the look of the car. I was contemplating on getting a pair of used Evo X ones for my car and later discovered that 2011 onwards models don't have the self levelling wire harness pre-installed. Early model EXs have them, so the projector lamps is just plug and play. So if I were to install them, the self-levelling wouldn't work and I'd actually have to manually level the headlamps after installing.

Now that's a good looking EX. Says all history is available from first rego as well. Should be good. Much newer car than OP's 2008 one (no ABS sensor issue) and a GLS too. That last photo with the Evo spoiler... ? You had to share this instead of a normal photo didn't you?

Thanks. Someone please take my turn.

I highly doubt it's to do with ball joints or tie rod ends since the vibration is at idle. @GayanR , Since you say that the vibration stops when you press the brake pedal, it might be that there's a vacuum leak. The mechanic may have forgotten to connect a vacuum line or left one of them improperly connected. You should be able to do a visual inspection around the throttle body and observe each vacuum line. Pay extra attention to the one that goes from the brake booster to the intake manifold. If all the vacuum lines are okay, it might be the ECU still re-learning as Gayanath said. If the job was done with the battery disconnected, this would cause the ECU to reset.

Honda Logo GA3

From my experience and from what I've observed with other owners, the slave cylinder on the CS Lancer usually lasts for around 60,000km before starting to give trouble. During my ownership, I've replaced the clutch plate once, but the slave cylinder twice. So it might be this. Note that the slave cylinder is sealed and integrated to the clutch fork which is also connected to the release bearing. The entire unit needs replacement, and cannot be serviced. As for the issue being intermittent, yes it's quite possible to to either of the cylinders failing. As the engine and transmission warm up, the bore of the cylinder expands, and if the hydraulic oil seals inside are old and brittle, it can cause fluid to leak within the unit causing the pedal to not engage/disengage the clutch properly. As first point of the diagnosis, take out the transmission oil filler bolt and check if the oil level is low. The oil level should be just below the filler bolt and a little bit of oil coming out when the bolt is taken out means the oil level is spot on. If the oil level is low, this would explain difficulty in shifting (especially when warm). Next, drain the oil observe the colour and if the oil has any metal shavings. The colour should be a nice and golden with a hint of green/grey. Top up with new oil and take the car for a good drive. This will be a good point to start before taking apart the transmission. I had trouble downshifting to second gear after I bought my car and I did a transmission oil change which sorted it out. People rarely think about manual transmission oil changes, but it does matter although oil changes are not needed as frequently as with automatic transmissions.

I haven't come across the same problem, but it sounds like an issue with the clutch cylinders (most probably the slave/release cylinder inside the transmission). Did you feel a difference in the pedal travel or firmness when this happened? Also, do you know how many kilometers the current clutch has done? If this happens again, try pumping the clutch (depress fully and let go, repeat 3 times) before pressing the clutch and shifting gears. if you could shift normally when you do this, then it's definitely a faulty cylinder - again, most probably the release cylinder.

Your IACV sounds to be OK. If the problem only happens after the engine warms up (you never mentioned that before), and according to the symptoms described, it could be a faulty ignition coil. Do you get a Check Engine light when the engine stalls?

Was that a yes to the morning RPM behaviour? Please check my previous post and answer my first question. If aerosol was sprayed directly onto the IACV, there's a possibility that the carb cleaner could have damaged the coils inside the IACV. From memory the QG15 engine has a plunger type IACV that needs to be cleaned with care. The correct way to clean it is to spray carb cleaner to a clean rag and wipe the IACV clean. If your car doesn't behave the way I've mentioned in my previous post, the IACV is likely to be faulty. I think you should first check the IACV and then the Throttle Position Sensor before thinking of replacing the throttle body.

It is worth noting that the built-in hydrometer only shows the status of one cell. So there's the possibility that the cell that the indicator is installed on is either better or worse than the rest. There's also the possibility that electrolyte on the area of the indicator is of a different consistency than the rest of the battery. A gentle shake of the battery should cause the electrolyte to evenly distribute across all cells. This is the most likely cause in OP's case. In any case as others have mentioned above, the voltage of the battery is a better measure than the built-in hydrometer.

When you start the car in the morning, does the RPM rise to around 1500 initially and gradually reduce to normal (i.e. around 700) as the engine reaches operating temperature? Also, how did you clean the IACV? Did you spray a cleaning aerosol directly onto the valve?

When you run out of face masks and DIY is life. The successor to the N95 mask... The K&N95! ?

Hi Yudish, welcome to the forum. Please refrain from opening multiple threads asking the same question. Threads merged. The simple answer to your question is, yes you can. However you need to be aware of certain things before you change wheel size. 1. Make sure the overall diameter of the wheel doesn't change. Go to this website and put in your current tyre size, and pick the 17 inch one that is as close as possible to the current tyre's overall diameter. 2. Due to the thinner sidewall of the 17 inch tyre, you will lose some comfort. This is normal. 3. Offset of the new rim needs to be same or as close as possible to original, unless you are after some crazy fitment. Different offset wheels will not only put strain on the suspension, and change the scrub radius causing handling issues. If you're not sure what wheel offset is, Google it.

I'm guessing it was imported from Australia. They were apparently used by tradies extensively back in the day to haul their equipment, just like they use utes and trucks today. Hence the lack of windows (i.e "panel van"). Interesting indeed to see one in Sri Lanka. Looks to be in good nick too! As for the number, I guess it's registered as a light lorry. 33 and 34 Sri were used for light lorries. The most famous of them being the Mitsubishi Delica T120 which is technically a van, but registered in the light lorry category.

1. When you start the car in the morning (AC off), does the RPM rise to around 1500 and slowly return to around 700 as the engine warms up? Or does it settle at 1100? Also, when this happens, stop the car and let it idle with the AC on and observe if the fluctuation happens with the AC compressor engaging on and off. If the answer to any of the above questions is "no", then it's likely that you have a sticking or faulty Idle Air Control Valve. If you haven't done a fuel system cleanup (i.e "tuneup") recently, then I suggest getting one done first. 2. Difficult to say without actually taking it for a test drive. But is the vibration coming from the front of the car? Maybe check if one or more of the wheel balancing weights have fallen off - this is probably the most simplest thing to check. Just do a wheel balance and that will address any balancing issues if there are any. 3. Marginally low I would say. Is this an automatic? And did you carry out the full tank to full tank method to calculate fuel consumption? Looking at issues 1 and 3, if you haven't got tune done recently, it's best you get one done. Get the throttle body cleaned up (be extra careful not to damage the IACV as spraying TB cleaner directly will most definitely damage it). Get the injectors cleaned and check the condition of your air and fuel filters and spark plugs and replace as necessary.

Gosh, sounds like they've made a bit of a mess. They should have just rinsed that part then and there. The thing with this gen Lancer is that the intake is at the front, so quite a bit of sensors close to the radiator compared to older generations where the exhaust was at the front, and you could be a bit more careless with water splash, and even wash the radiator area.

MiVEC kicked in Yo!

Nope, it shouldn't degrade plastic or metal parts. I don't understand how they can mess up the engine bay though. I mean the coolant is drained from the bottom. And if they used a funnel to fill it in, there really shouldn't be any spillage.

Hi @pasindu tharaka, welcome to the forum! Please refrain from creating multiple threads across different sections of the forum. I have now merged your threads. As for your issue, I'd start by checking all the vacuum lines first for a leaks. Make sure all rubber vacuum hoses are properly secured and that they don't have cracks. Next would be the idle air control valve that you should check. It might be sticking due to carbon deposits or faulty. Do a throttle body clean and get the IACV carefully cleaned as well.

Sounds like a fuel pressure problem like others have mentioned. Do the following test just before a cold start to confirm: 1. Turn the ignition to the ON position (don't start) 2. Leave it on for 30 seconds 3. Start the car If it starts first time, then it's definitely a fuel pressure issue.

Hi @Dasun Sanjaya, welcome to the forum. Please refrain from posting the same topic across multiple sections of the forum. The CK Lancer has been extensively discussed, so you might want to search the forum as well. Click here for search results. Threads merged.

Saw this on Facebook a few days ago and almost cried. What a tragic way for such a beauty to go. ? As someone who has experienced a car fire (not nearly as bad), I can relate to how traumatic it can be; even if the occupants weren't physically injured.