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Davy

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Everything posted by Davy

  1. Great pick! Congrats! PS: The slogan on the rear number plate holder though 😁
  2. Try Mazna motors in Aththidiya.
  3. Both fans should operate together. So it could be a faulty fan motor or fan control module. As a first step, observe the behaviour of the fans in the following situation: - Make sure the engine is relatively cool (hasn't reached operating temperature). Start the car (AC off). Keep running for 1 minute. Fans should be off. - Turn on the AC. Both fans should turn on and run at high speed. The fans should also turn on and off with the operation of the AC compressor while the engine hasn't reached operating temperature. - Turn off the AC. Fans should turn off. Keep the car idle until it reaches operating temperature (temp gauge has reached the middle mark). At that point, both fans should start ramping up. First on low speed and if you leave it for longer, it will eventually switch to high speed (you don't have to check high speed, if the fans kick in at low speed, you're good). If any of the above scenarios are not as described, there is an issue. If one fan works exactly as described, but the other one doesn't, it is likely to be a faulty fan motor. If you are handy with a spanner, you can do a further test to try and figure out if it's definitely a faulty fan. The fan control module sits on top of the passenger side fan (it's a black box with a heatsink facing the front of the car), and both fans are plugged onto it. It controls the fans depending on a signal from the ECU. The ECU grounds the signal pin to 0v depending on The AC switch status, ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) value and VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) value. Your first option is to remove the connector of the faulty fan from the control module. Then use some electrical wire and connect the fan directly to the battery (the thicker wire needs to be connected to positive). The fan should run on full speed. If not, the fan is faulty. Remove the wires from the battery and spin the fan by hand, and before it stops spinning, connect the wires again. If the fan runs normally, the fan is faulty (worn out brushes). The second (and probably easier) option is to try swapping the fan connectors (at the control module) to see if the other fan behaves the same way when swapped. If it does, then the issue is with the fan control module. You'll have to install a new module. The control module can be tested as well if you know how to use a multimeter. But to keep things simple, try these first. Good luck!
  4. @Rushneli Samanthika, Welcome to the forum. It would be helpful to members if you can add in some detail to about what you are after exactly.
  5. How satisfying to watch an already beautiful icon get a makeover.
  6. Congratulations mate! Never thought I'd say this about a Yaris, but that actually looks amazing! Nice choice of colour too. Wishing you many happy journeys with it!
  7. 200k km is nothing for a petrol engine. Just make sure the mileage is genuine (it it weren't, I doubt it would be listed as 200k km, so it likely is genuine). Check emissions test certificates to be sure. If the car has a verified maintenance history and is in good condition, then there's nothing to worry about. Just do your usual checks before buying. Good luck!
  8. 1. The idle screw on the throttle body is not meant to be adjusted. It's preset to match the engine and ECU combination the throttle body is fitted to. Most local mechanics who want a "quick fix" try to solve issues by messing with the idle screw, but it throws the ECU off completely which is why you are currently experiencing issues. There is usually a mark (like a torque seal mark that comes on nuts and bolts from the factory) on the idle screw to indicate the factory position. But it won't be easy to determine how many turns the screw was moved. So your best bet is to take the car to the agent and let them reset it for you. 2. Wrong again. The plunger type IACVs that come on these Mitsubishi engines are highly sensitive to cleaning liquids. What happens when high pressure liquid is sprayed onto the plunger is that the carbon already on it is carried into the unit which shorts out one or both coils within the unit and destroys it. This becomes worse if the IACV is installed immediately after cleaning without allowing it to dry properly. The workshop manual warns against using any form of aerosol cleaners on the IACV, TPS and the throttle body as well for that matter. So my guess is that this recon IACV is also now defective. Take your car to the agent and they should be able to test it for you. 3. This further confirms that your IACV is defective If at some point you had your AC system serviced/repaired and they re-filled with refrigerant, and if they under-filled it, your compressor would have "starved" of lubricant which would have worn out. This happens more often than you'd think. If your AC belt was too tight, it would wear out the bearing on the compressor pulley and cause it to bind/stick. So when the AC is turned on, the engine has to deal with more load than normal.
  9. Hi @Piranavan Lancer CS1, Welcome to the forum. My first guess is that the reconditioned IAC valve is defective. But before concluding, can you answer the questions below: 1. In point #1 you mentioned that the "engine is set to 1100rpm". Do you mean that the idle RPM is manually set to 1100 using the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body? If this has been done, it needs to be reset to factory position. 2. Before fixing the new IACV, was it cleaned with contact or throttle body cleaner? If yes, how was it cleaned? Was the liquid sprayed directly onto the IACV? 3. When you start the car in the morning, does the RPM rise to around 1000 - 1500 and slowly settle at normal (in your case 1100) when the engine reaches operating temperature? 4. Can you provide a bit of history on the car? Current mileage, mileage since last fuel system clean-up (tune-up) etc. As for your point #3 about AC putting excessive stress on the engine - it's quite normal to feel that way on a CS1 because it's a small engine on a mid-sized sedan. But if you have compared against other CS1 Lancers and feel that yours is noticeably underpowered, then it could be an issue. You can start by checking whether the AC/Accessory belt is over-tightened or whether the AC compressor is binding. If these are Okay, you're probably looking at a fuel system issue.
  10. It has been a while since I updated this thread, but I didn't have that much to say about the car - until now. COVID surely slowed things down. The car has only been driven around 5000km since the purchase in June 2019, but some noteworthy events prompted me to make this post. About a month ago, a good friend of mine borrowed the car to run some errands. He had just moved to a new home, and wanted to pick up some stuff. Given that the Mazda has good boot space once the seats are folded down, it can comfortably move quite large items - even small furniture. So I lent him the car. He picked up the car in the afternoon and let me know that he might not be able to return it the same day if he runs too late. I was happy with it and said it's fine. Around 7:30pm, I called him because I was about to head out myself. I wanted to check if everything is okay and that I'll not be home if he plans on returning the car the same evening. At that time, he was 90km or so away from where I live, so he said that he's likely to return the car the next day. I asked him about the car and he said (and I quote) "everything is very smooth considering the age of the car, and it's zippy even with the trunk full of stuff!". All good. Okay machan, thanks bye. A couple of minutes pass by... my phone rings. It's my friend. Hello machang! - Mey machang... the car is suddenly lost a bit of power ne. It's struggling to idle and shaking like crazy. I am about to enter the freeway and head back, but it looks like.... sh!t, it died.... um... [I hear him try to start the car... a couple of times and it putters back to life and he floors it to keep the engine running] - Okay it started, but it dies as soon as I let go of the gas. Um... okay, don't enter the freeway, can you try to drive to the side of the road and stop the car? - OK, let me see [ I'm on the phone and I hear rattles and a racing engine and my friend swear in the background every time the car almost dies. It's an automatic, which makes things a bit tricky] After he safely stopped the car on the side of the road, I asked him to open the hood and show me what's happening on a video call. He called me and showed me the engine wobbling like crazy. It was as if the car was running on 2 cylinders. As soon as I saw that, I narrowed down the possible issues in my head. Now my friend is the type of guy who would call a tow truck as soon as something like this happens. I knew this and I had to handle the situation in such a way that it was not too intimidating for him. It looked to me like it was an issue with the ignition system - a faulty ignition coil maybe? So if I could get him to take out each of the ignition leads to try and figure out if that was the issue - that'd be a good start. But the engine has a plastic cover held on by four 10mm nuts that need to be removed. I was pretty confident that it was a faulty ignition coil. But where do I find a replacement ignition coil at this time of night? If only I had a couple lying around at home [Read this post] . So I told my friend to sit tight, and drove 90km to him with tools and an ignition coil from that yellow 323 which is probably long gone now and reincarnated as a washing machine or something. On the way, I called up one of my cousins living in the area who is pretty competent and asked him if he can go to where the car is - just to provide moral support to my friend. In the meantime, my friend had called a mechanic friend of his who also lives in the area who said will be there within the hour. When I was about 10 minutes away from them, I was told that the mech had come and taken out the engine cover to find a melted ignition coil and said: Yeah sorry man, she ain't going anywhere today - No no... the owner of the car is coming with an ignition coil What the!?? By the time I got there, it was around 9:30pm. I found the Mazda with a trunk full of stuff, rear suspension all stooped down, sitting on the side of the road, hazards on and hood open. The ignition coil was swapped in within a matter of seconds and the car started and was back to normal. I thanked everyone and we headed back. I was on the phone with my friend the whole way, talking about events of the day and we made it home safely. THE END? No When life gives you lemons, it gives them by the metric ton. So there's more drama. We're doing 100km/h on a 5 lane freeway and my friend goes "mey machan... onna aapahu it's missing". 😐 I told him to let the car coast and to cross the three lanes and stop in the emergency lane/shoulder. Popped the hood to find the new ignition coil almost smoking and too hot to even touch. What do we do now? We're on the freeway, about 40km away from home, it's 10pm. It would have been stupid to not bring both the ignition coils I took out from that yellow 323. So I swapped in the second coil in. She started again. My friend goes: Ado machan, I'm scared to drive this now. Can you drive this and I'll drive the RalliArt? - Sure, no worries. Let's just exit the freeway and take normal roads where we can drive slowly and limp our way home. So we exited the freeway and I piloted the Mazda. I was very light-footed and made sure that I let her coast as much as possible. I decided to stop the car on the side of the road once to check if the coils are heating up. They seemed fine, so I drove a bit more confidently from that point onwards and made it home. Was quite the day. But stay tuned for chapter two. Yes there's more.
  11. I'm actually not sure. I came across this on Evo IXs, but I guess it would have been offered on other cars as well. Was that a Mitsubishi as well?
  12. Davy

    Honda Fit Liftkit

    I'm not convinced stock dampers would fail prematurely because they are in a slightly more extended state. But I do see how it can have an impact on comfort and handling. Also, there are spacers that go above the strut mount, so the stock stroke of the dampers or coil springs don't change.
  13. Davy

    Honda Fit Liftkit

    I think your argument still holds valid @Kavvz. That project shared by @kmeeg is on a league of it's own and not applicable for OP's requirement. We're talking about getting a little more ground clearance for convenience and to preventing the suspension from bottoming out and damaging the undercarriage. That guy has cut out his fenders to get the bigger wheels to fit in there which I doubt is something OP would be willing to do . I think OP has severely over-estimated the height increase required. 6 inches is quite drastic if you ask me. A couple of inches of ground clearance goes a long way, so some relatively inexpensive suggestions are: 1. Strut Spacers - These are basically rubber spacers that sit on the top and/or bottom of the coil springs to give it a little more lift. This I believe would be the option that would give the best return for the money. 2. Taller Coil Springs - The more expensive alternative to #1 above. Instead of using rubber spacers, you buy slightly taller springs. 3. Bigger wheels and tyres - Probably the most expensive option out of the three and the one that gives the least amount of clearance for the money. But you could use bigger rims and a tyre with a taller sidewall to gain a slight increase in ground clearance. It must be said that all of these things have it's negatives. Obviously, making slight suspension changes like this will impact handling and even skew suspension geometry.
  14. I have a feeling that these two issues are unrelated. Your car was probably struggling to idle and move because one of the cylinders were not firing due to the defective spark plug (I assume you were referring to spark plug when you said that one plug was burnt). So you should get that issue sorted out first. Replace all spark plugs for starters and ensure they are gapped properly. If you get the genuine Toyota spark plugs for the Yaris, they should be gapped properly from the factory. Automatic transmission fluid is non-conductive. So even if you submerge the entire ECU in ATF, it'll probably not cause any issue to the functions of the ECU. However, if ATF got into the ECU, then pretty much any other liquid (or even other contaminants) could have gotten into it which could damage it. So I suggest getting the ignition circuit tested at the agent if possible. The ECU should be thoroughly cleaned with contact cleaner and carefully re-assembled, making sure it's not compromised. Also, get the transmission oil leak fixed ASAP. The 4 pin ignition coils that come on these Toyotas are pretty robust. They also feed-in a signal back to the PCM to throw an error code (P1305) if any of them fail to fire. So if you don't have a check engine light, I think it's safe to assume that the ECU is still okay. But getting it tested is just so that any doubt is eliminated.
  15. Something interesting I stumbled upon today. Mitsubishi Evo 9s (at least in the Australian market) came with a factory option to GPS track the car. It's called "Diamond Trac". The SIM card slot is on the right, under the Mitsubishi Motors lettering and emblem. The device is located on the A pillar on the driver's side. "Diamond Trac’ has been implemented to further deter thieves. Diamond Trac uses satellite positioning (GPS) and mobile phone technology (GSM) to track your vehicle. If your Evo is stolen, Diamond Trac can liaise with the Police to track your vehicle’s whereabouts and apprehend the thieves that have stolen it. The Diamond Trac unit is located to the right of the driver’s head and allows the driver to operate the unit via 3 buttons. Diamond Trac also allows you to ‘geolock’ your Evo. It adds a virtual barrier around your car. The moment it leaves this perimeter, you are notified via SMS and have the option of either alerting the Police - and/or the Diamond Trac staff - or to obtain the current location of your vehicle. " Source: https://www.caradvice.com.au/2523/2006-mitsubishi-lancer-evolution-ix-road-test/ Thought it was interesting considering that this was during a period 2006 - 2007. The immobiliser system used by Subaru during the same time period was not as sophisticated. It was just a PIN number near the ignition where you key in the PIN and start the car. I've also learnt that owners of both the Evo Subaru have opted to disconnect the system due to various issues. I guess the Diamond Trac system is obsolete now as Mitsubishi doesn't have the monthly subscription to track the car. The Subaru PIN system has just been unreliable. I have personal experience with the Subaru system and it was such a nuisance to use.
  16. I had missed this thread, so read it from the start today. Didn't expect to read this! 😐 Anyway, good luck with your next purchase!
  17. Duude! Your 4Runner deserves a thread of it's own!
  18. The advice I can give you is to buy your favourite colour. You're buying the car for you and not the next owner. 🙂 Having said that, I believe a couple of colours on offer are a little more expensive than the rest. The "Soul Red" colour is one of them if I am not mistaken. This wouldn't really make a huge difference in the second hand market IMO. At the end of the day, colour is a personal preference, so there's always going to be someone who will like it.
  19. Between those two cars, I'd go for the Mazda 6 in a heartbeat. I helped a friend buy one about a year ago and that was a 2.5L GT as well. That was my first time driving a Mazda with Skyactiv and the car had done 205,000km since new with all service history from the first owner available. Drove a couple of other examples before he settled with this one and I felt like the car had fared pretty well given the relatively high mileage. I don't think spares would be a problem because Mazda in Sri Lanka are one of the few (if not only) brands that are being imported by multiple agents (Carmart and C#lonial M#tors). In addition to that, you've got places like Mazna Motors in Pepiliyana who are as good as the agents. @Supra_Natural, do you still have yours? I tried to find your thread, but couldn't.
  20. Ooh nice! Following! Good luck with the conversion!
  21. Better late than never, so Wishing everyone a Happy and prosperous new year! Also congratulations to all the top contributors and bloggers of the year. Well done you guys! I wasn't around much during the second half of 2020 due to personal commitments. What a year that was! 😬 Hoping to be part of the community more this year. 🙂
  22. Automatic or manual transmission? What's the current mileage?
  23. When widebody is life Tagging the CY clan for a good laugh (or cry) @trinity, @Hyaenidae, @K.o.N.o.S. I've been away from the forum for quite a while... who did I miss?
  24. RIP Mitsubishi Celeste ? Source here
  25. On a small engine that heavily relies on the turbo for power, sure makes sense. The oil feed to the turbo is longer than the channels in the engine block, so yes. It should still all be lubed up and ready to go in under half a minute. Equally important is to let the engine idle for a bit, especially after a rough run, so that the turbo has time to gracefully cool down. However... On a regular NA engine like the 4A on the Lancer, longer idle times has no benefit. You should only really give it around 20 seconds max for the engine oil to circulate and that's it. What is more important than long idle times is to get your engine to operating temperature as soon as possible, and that is by driving your car on low RPMs. By idling stationary, you're just causing the slowest possible warm-up. One minute is fine, but anything longer than that is overkill. For one bar to appear on the temperature gauge of my car, it takes several minutes of idling! If the engine is grumpy when cold, that is probably a sign of a different issue (wrong engine oil used, wrong fuel, carbon deposits in intake or fuel system etc.).
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