Davy

Welcome to the forum! Idle RPM sounds normal. It's meant to be 650 - 700. But if the car vibrates when the AC kicks in, that is not normal. The IACV (Idle air control valve) should compensate for the additional load by seamlessly to maintain a proper idle RPM. The most common reason for this is carbon build up in the throttle body and IACV. Poor fuel quality in SL and harsh driving conditions tend to cause excessive carbon build up in the intake, and periodic cleaning is required. So here are a few questions: - How long ago did you get a fuel system clean-up (i.e. "tune up") done? - Does the vibration happen in Neutral as well? Or does it happen mainly in gear?

Welcome to the forum! Most of them are Unfortunately you'll have to take it to a couple of paint shops and get a couple of quotes as it could vary depending on the extent of the repair. Just looking through the photos, the front guard scratch and the top circle in the first photo should be fairy simple, but it looks like the blue sticker is also scratched (first photo, bottom circle). Can you not claim it on insurance? Just tell them that you lost control and tipped over and they'll assess damage and even recommend a garage to carry out the repair. Good luck!

Yeah. Powder coated black too. Looks better. I must correct myself. It's not forged aluminium. Still heaps better than the plastic one though.

Yep. Sounds about right

The issue with 92 octane fuel in SL is that quality is highly questionable. In comparison 95 is safer IMO because according to my knowledge, it conforms to Euro 4 emissions standards. IOC used to have a Euro 3 variant of petrol which used to be only slightly more expensive than the base 92. That's what I used on my CS3 back in the day. Modern day petrol is not plain old gasoline anymore. It's a chemical that consists of additives for lubricating, rust prevention etc. Is there an independent body in SL that tests the quality of petrol?

Apparently this is a common issue in the series. There's a forged aluminium version of the part (aftermarket of course) that I've seen a lot of people use.

Wow that price for the power steering hose! 🤑 I had a similar leak on the same hose when I had my CS3 and fabricated a new hose for around Rs. 500 several years ago. The banjo fittings on either end were crimped onto a new hose.

This one is for @Magnum. 600hp, Lamborghini inspired Hiace. Source: TopGear

Nice! You'd be lucky to find one for less than 30K these days. Thanks! Actually, Datsun Parts Shop is one of the main ones. Has loads of parts for the B110. Another one is Mad Dat. https://www.maddat.com.au/search?q=B110&type=product (Link with search results for B110 parts) For weather strips and rubber beadings and stuff, you can try Rare Spares https://www.rarespares.net.au/

Great stuff! An Arduino fan myself with several boards around the house powering my home automation system. The first time I'm hearing about Speeduino. Pretty cool! As @MrCat said, there's a great Datsun community here. Not just in Perth, but in most other states as well. Prices of highly sought after models have definitely sky-rocketed in the past couple of years. It's crazy! There's a few local websites as well that shop internationally. Happy to provide details.

Did the "garage guy" drop the brake drum on the floor while the car was on the hoist? Certainly looks like that kind of damage. 😉 In any case, get it replaced soon as that can cause brake pedal vibration if the crack develops further. Also, there a hole there, so water can get in easily and corrode the springs and brake mechanism inside.

ATF M-V automatic transmission fluid DOT3 brake fluid

@De_ja_vu Pretty sure your car isn't burning oil. If it was burning 85% of oil within 5000km, there would be obvious signs. My guess is that they either under-filled oil, or the method you're using to check the oil level is not quite right. As soon as oil is poured into the engine, it may usually show an incorrect reading, so the common practice is to know the oil requirement of the car and fill slightly less than that amount. Wait for a couple of minutes for the oil to settle and then check the dipstick to ensure the level is OK. It's also a good idea to check the oil level the following morning to ensure its alright. When you're checking your oil level, make sure that your car is parked on flat ground and wait for the engine to cool down and for the oil to settle. Checking oil immediately after a trip is guaranteed to show a lower than normal level. Check your owner's manual for more info.

Change your mechanic.

I believe the conventional automatic transmission that comes with the CK and CS is the same unit. They are pretty simple and reliable transmissions from my experience. Do your regular maintenance on time and they should last as long as the car does.

Finally. Something worthwhile to read. Good stuff mate.

Never seen one of these before. Does that pop out of the glove box? If you have an accident VIPeeing while driving, is that table is gonna be the one that hits the passenger's face? 😉

Same thoughts here. Verstappen is the better driver IMO. I'm rooting for Sergio Perez this year after his amazing 14 overtakes from last to first during his last race with Racing Point. I've watched that video so many times. Here it is: His first race with RedBull was also absolutely amazing given that he had car trouble, started last and finished 5th with 19 overtakes or something insane like that.

More information here: http://www.motortraffic.wp.gov.lk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=146&Itemid=77&lang=si

Good job @PerfMad! 👍 One thing I'd recommend is using a heat resistant (or high heat) paint. Especially on the valve cover. Regular spray paint tends to burn/fade/flake under the extreme heat of the engine. This is relevant to brakes as well because the front brakes do get extremely hot. I remember there was a brand named Leyland that had high heat paint in rattle cans. I got mine from Roxy paint centre in Wellawatte in front of the... you guessed it - Roxy cinema. 🙂

Yep, they'll fit without any issues. For that rim, you should probably go for a 225x40R18 tyres. What size tyres are you running on the Lancer GT rimes at the moment? The Evo X BBS rims look exactly like the ones in your photo. They are 18x8.5 +38 offset, and a more aggressive fit. This is what I have. You'd have to use 235 wide tyres. If you go higher than 235, the rears will rub on the wheel arch on load. Especially since your car is already lowered.

I like where this is headed! Interesting build after a while. Keep us posted!

The Online Registered Vehicle Information Service offered by RMV lets you pay 150 LKR to obtain full details of a vehicle including current owner's details. However, I don't think this works for vintage numbers like EY series. You might be able to directly contact RMV and ask them if you can get any information on the car? Maybe ask if they have a over-the-counter service where you can pay and obtain information? Good luck!

Congratulations on the purchase. Can relate to all of the symptoms described at various points of my history of car ownership - except maybe the lack of a handbrake lever. Good luck in restoring her to her former glory.

What @speed8 said! You can check if the cooling fan is faulty by switching on the AC. The fan should switch on and off automatically with your AC compressor. If the fan doesn't turn on, it might be a faulty fan, dodgy wiring or a loose connection. As for coolant flowing back to the expansion tank when you lift your foot off the accelerator, it could be that you are using a wrong radiator cap where the cap is below the recommended pressure rating. It could also be because your thermostat valve is removed causing coolant to flow more freely and cause excessive pressure in the top coolant hose (return line) to the radiator.