Davy

<facepalm>

That has got to be a typo. Like with the 1.5CC engine capacity.

Thanks for sharing Peri. Interesting indeed! I didn't know that an RC track existed at Speed Drome. I hope you recall me asking if there was any hobby shop that anyone was aware of and I think you gave me the answer. I Googled the name on your first photo and found their website as well. (I guess I'm not allowed to share it here?) I'm definitely gonna pay a visit there. Thanks again! Edit: Found this on YouTube

I can just picture this taking a 90 degree turn at about 30km/h with passengers on the upper deck.

My car was up for an EFI tune up and I purchased a voucher from the deal website you are referring to. It was a good deal so I thought I’d give it a shot. I had not visited this “prominent” place before to get any job done and it was through this deal that I got to know that they do EFI tune ups as well (Since they are mostly famous for wheel alignment). Anyway, my experience with the EFI tune up was good. The mechanic who worked on my car was a very competent fellow and he knew what he was doing. I got throttle body cleaned (TPS checked), injectors cleaned using ultrasonic and then a diagnostic scan was also performed (this one guy did the entire job). On another note, I think the management there sucks big time. My appointment was at 8:30am and I was there by 8:25am. But I had to wait over 1 hour until they actually began work on my car because of the lack of manpower. I had a word with the manager during my wait.

Maaan, that's a nice car...

Hi hrm, Sorry to hear that your car didn't make the test. If you could go to a garage today and get your car properly tuned, you can submit the car for the emission test again today for no additional charge. And I think you mean CO (Carbon Monoxide) and not CO2 (Carbon Dioxide). This could be due to a couple of reasons and according to the information you have given, it looks as if the air to fuel ratio is messed up in your carburetor disallowing a complete combustion (less air, more fuel). So the guys at the emission testing facility were correct. Also, make sure you drive the car a couple of Kilometers before going for the test (just saying in case the place is very close to your home) to bring it to the operating temperature, as this could be a reason for High CO levels as well. Hope this helps. Good luck!

Source: Link

Great job machang! I’m really happy for you and you’re welcome; I’m glad I could be of assistance. I must say that this could be done to original specs so easily mainly because although this particular CS1 didn’t have fog lamps as an option, the fog lamp circuit was available in the car’s wiring. So the actual wiring was simple.

OK now that's something new (to me at least)... Did a bit of Googling and found this as well: I wonder if there could be possible side effects.

Spare wheel, shovel, spoiler, a gallon of petrol in that can... with all that weight at the back, this guy shouldn't attempt to climb steep hills in that thing. lol. yet another funny moment.

Tyre pressure is not based on the brand of tyre you use. It's specified by the manufacturer for the various sizes of tyres that can be used on your car. Refer your user manual or check the tyre inflation pressure chart on your driver's side door post.

Agree with terra and Sylvi. If I were to re-order your list, it would be: Engine overhaul first! If you have to leave the car at the mechanic for some time, it may give you time to get the engine bay cleaned up or re-painted. Only the engine bay though. When the engine is being re-installed, you can install the new suspension components as well. CV joints, boots and shocks etc. since most of them will be removed anyway. Next, go for the alloys and tyres, make sure you do wheel balancing and alignment since suspension and rims are new. Your car should be in a mechanically sound state now. If the extent of the paint job is severe (meaning, if you’re planning to strip down the interior of the car for the paint job), I think the best would be to avoid interior repairs and audio installation until after the paint job (I would leave it for the end). Get the windscreen, side skirts and stuff and get the car painted (installing the new windscreen and the skirts). You can do the upholstery, dashboard repairs and audio installation at the very end. Hope this helps!

I guess the next step would be for you to get the AC checked up as the others have suggested as well. I know it feels safe to assume that the bearings and all are fine because you did a repair, but it could be that the repair itself is erroneous here. Plus, your AC behaving strangely gives more indication towards investigating on it more. Best thing would have been if you could have opened the hood and checked if you can locate the source of the sound machang. That makes life a lot easier than having to assume a lot of things. And it’s you who can do it because this thing starts to happen once in a while at random occasions.

Maan.... That's a stunning car.

All that @lawatta does is run the Wurth fuel system cleaner through the injectors after cleaning the throttle body and spark plugs. I personally think that this is a quick but incomplete tune up. He charges something like 7000 (May 2011) for it as well. There is an improvement in the acceleration and smoothness of course, but it’s only for a shorter time as opposed to having a much thorough tune up. There are places that do ultrasonic injector cleaning + cleaning throttle body and spark plugs and even cleaning the fuel filter for a comparatively reasonable price to @lawatta. I'm not sure of a place around Dehiwala though. Plus, I wouldn’t recommend an engineer with a bigger attitude than his qualifications and popularity, to anyone (personal experience on two different occasions). I’m sure many others will agree on this point.

I was thinking the same thing actually... three letters can create some nasty words or stuff that look like nasty words at a glance. On the other hand, there could be some cool ones as well. Imagine BMW, CBR, TRD, HRV, CRV, MMC and so on on the right vehicles... i.e. a BMW 320D with the plates BMW - 0320 would be nice.

This guy sure is neat! Perfect kinda fellow to carry out this type of restoration.

Hahahaha! Kia nevei eeya!

Sampath, you've done an awesome job with it being your first car. Colour keying has really given that car a good look as well. Must have been really hard to let her go. Anyway, thumbs up!

Did you check whether the alternator or AC compressor bearings are fine (at the belt change)? Also, were you able to pop the hood and try to locate the source of the sound while it was happening?

Both the belts seem to be in pretty bad shape, especially the AC belt. I think you did the right thing when you changed the belts regardless of whether they are connected to this issue or not. Waiting for an update...

Hmm... that's a bit weird. I still think it could be an issue with the driver. Check the following: - Are you running Windows 7 x64 while trying to install an x86 driver (or vice versa)? - Try executing the driver installation by right clicking on the set up file and selecting "Run As Administrator"

I'm sure it will not break off like the thread machan. And I think the gauge of suture that you've selected is just fine. The only thing that I'm concerned about is whether it will tear the steering wheel cover because the suture itself is a bit sharp right? But then again, if it's not stitched on really tight, I guess it'll be OK.

That looks neat... I know how strong those sutures are, had a few of those on me once.