Davy

Mitsubishi Space Gear (L400) Download Catalog (PDF) Preview:

It looks to me like the mounting screw holes are identical to what OP already has. The only thing bigger about the photo with the RPM meter is the image resolution. As for the installation, I agree with Watchman on installing the OEM guage cluster. The tachometer wiring is built into the wire harness as far as I know (EG8 experts should be able to confirm), so all you'll have to do is just swap the cluster. If you want to retain the mileage of the car, you can take both old and new clusters apart and put your speed o' meter into the new one (or you can match it manually).

Volkswagen Passat B5 Download Catalog (PDF) Preview:

Mercedes Benz 190/190E Download Catalog (PDF) Preview: PS: This catalog is very old (I've been having it since I was a kid ) so please excuse the degraded state of the catalog.

It's an image [http://i.imgur.com/eQMUX.gif] that goes well with the set of AL emoticons!

From that second photo, It looks like the front end has been worked on too. I wonder if this was done following an accident. Anyway, no car deserves to be ruined like this.

I came across their website when I was looking for a place to paint my car and maan... they have seriously tortured a lot of cars.

1991 - 1993 Mitsubishi Lancer Station Wagon Download Catalog (PDF) Preview:

Sure. Will do! This place is in Kaduwela. It's a 15 minute drive from where I live, so I am able to pay a daily visit there to see how it's going. I checked out a place in Kandana as well and I was reluctant to go there because of the long distance. Might be the same place. Hope it goes well with your father's car.

Machang, I think it was either Peri or Madz who had edited the topic title so as to given an indication to members before opening the thread. About your question on loading time. Yes, even at office, it takes quite a lot of time to load some pages on this thread mainly due to the large number of high resolution images (from various external image hosting sources) on them. For example, I just checked page 3 of this thread (at office) and it took over 1 minute for all the images to render. One thing that needs to be said is that the slowness is not common across the entire thread, it depends on the number of images on the page you are trying to load. So starting a new thread wouldn't be much of a use. To minimize the slowness, we can: 1. Compile the brochure images into a PDF and post the link here. There are many free image to PDF conversion tools online. 2. Post the links to the images instead of posting the actual full sized images. This prevents the browser from loading them on each page visit. Maybe post the actual sized cover page of the catalog and access the consecutive pages through links? 3. Include thumbnails that takes you to the full sized image once clicked. Just my thoughts. I have already followed a similar approach in my last two posts on this thread. Cheers!

I’ve been on the lookout for a place for about a month or so and checked out quite a few places from the so called high tech places around Colombo to individuals who work from home. My top priority was to get the car to look as good as new without cutting corners, so I was willing to spend a few extra bucks on the job. The big shots in Colombo who have paint booths and high tech equipment quoted 130,000 for the paint job. (Breakdown: 8000 per panel * 13 panels which comes to 104,000 + other repairs specific to my car) The lowest estimate that I was given was 50,000 and I did not settle for that because I thought the quality of their work was not up to my expectations. I finally settled for a place that gave me an estimate of 90,000. They have a modern paint booth and are using Sikkens paint. The car is going for paint next week and will be there for 2 weeks. My opinion is that you shouldn’t be having “high” expectations out of a “low” cost paint job. And if you really want a “new look”, the best thing to do is focus on the quality aspects of the job, as opposed to cost cutting.

1979 - 1987 Lancer EX 2000 Rally Turbo Brochure Preview: Full size images: Page 1 | Page 2 | Page 3 | Lancer EX

Finally borrowed a scanner and managed to scan some catalogs! First Gen Lancer and Galant Sigma Station Wagons Download PDF File Preview (not posting the actual sized images here to prevent slow loading. The PDF file contains the full images):

Awesome! Looks like the Asiri Surgical car park... Keeping an eye on the site for the review.

If you didn't hear the undercarriage of the car hit the bump, I'd take Watchman's advice and relax. Pay attention next time and slow down in advance. The last thing you want is a three wheeler rear ending you because you came to a sudden stop.

In that case, I would get the engine/gearbox mounts inspected as it could be because of one or more broken mounts as well. If the mounts are OK, I suspect it's still the clutch.

It sounds like the winder mechanism needs a bit of servicing (cleaning and oiling up). It's a DIY if you're up for it. There's a guy in Thalawathugoda town who does door specific repairs (central locking, power windows, power mirrors etc.). I have not been to the place personally but a couple of my friends got their doors fixed up by him (Toyota CR41 and Mazda BJ5P) and told me that he was OK. Let me know if you need his contact details.

Sounds to me like a slipping clutch. Does this happen all the time or especially when the car is under a bit of load (ex: trying to go uphill from a full stop)?

This I have to agree with. I used to have a spare ignition coil in my car while I was diagnosing an ignition problem like this because the problem was intermittent and changing the coil and it was because of a burnt ballast resistor which caused the coil to heat up after a few minutes of operation. I guess the best thing for Rameez to do is manually inspect whether the ignition coil heats up and check if it's because of a faulty resistor. As for the location of the coil, in the A72 it's on the opposite side of the exhaust manifold and the components that heat up excessively, so I guess we can rule that out. As for Sylvi's comment, yes the high tension leads (plug wires) do tend to leak when they're old because the insulation gets weak. I have come across situations where although a simple examination doesnt reveal cracks on the leads, the current is still strong enough to conduct through the insulation on to the chassis. So if the leads are pretty old, I guess replacing them would be a good idea overall if cleaning won't help.

Ah yes, that's the spot!

Hi Rameez, One reason for the platinum points to go bad as frequently is because the condenser (mounted on the distributor) is faulty. Was the condenser replaced in either of these occasions? Edit: oops, just saw that you have replaced the condenser on the second occasion. I hope you're positive that it was changed? And I hope it was the correct capacity? 0.27uF if I am not mistaken. Why I asked you if the condenser was changed because most mechanics just replace the contact point set (platinum) and assume everything will be OK. But if the condenser is not perfect, there will be sparks between the platinum points when the two surfaces of the contact point separates and this degrades the contact point set much faster.

In all your cases you have assumed that OP's starter motor doesn't run. But it does... it's just that the car stops as soon as the engine starts running. So apart from the fuel filter, the points 1, 2 and 3 do are not actually valid in this situation. To me it sounds like a fuel block as well. So +1 for cleaning/replacing it.

There was a shop in Panchikawatta that does Perodua spares. I don't recall the name of the shop, maybe someone else on the forum knows.

+1. A burnt indicator bulb is easier to check than performing a diagnostic. You can do this yourself if you have the patience. - Remove the dash panel(s) - Carefully take the guage cluster out if necessary or just remove the correct bulb on the back of the cluster board - Inspect the bulb. If unsure if it's burnt or not, use an already working bulb on the ABS bulb slot (ex: door indicator bulb maybe) and see if the indicator comes on now - This would be a good time to check the ABS fuse as well since the bulb is sure to be working If the indicator still does not come on, then you might have to get the ABS system checked out.

As for the workplace LED bulbs, I see an advertisement every week on the @DZ magazine of the Sund@y Obs3rv3r. They had advertised several shapes as well. And I don't remember the price being as high as 8500. Check it out.