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Davy

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Everything posted by Davy

  1. Guilty as charged, I have poisoned all the rats that ever got near or into the cars I’ve had over the years. Three or four fellows I guess, and I used M0rtein R@t K!ll to get them (The cube kind of thing). One thing I’ve seen about rats is that they follow the same route at roughly the same time. So you can place those cubes along its path and it definitely will eat them up. I’ve got a dog at home as well and it doesn't try to eat the stuff (he just sniffs and goes away). If you have regular rat problems, to prevent further infestations: Never leave the fresh air vent open. As Watchman said, this is one of the few ways for a rat (and other animals) to get inside your car. If the outer passage of the fresh air vent of your car is designed in such a way that most rats seem to take shelter there, then your problems aren’t over for good. I have this problem so I’ve used a wire mesh at the fresh air vent opening. Don’t park your car facing the same direction every day. If you reverse the car into the garage today, just go front first tomorrow. This reduces the chances of rats building nests because they follow the same route as I’ve stated above. Keep the interior of your car clean. Some people leave pizza boxes, food wrappings, drinks etc. in their vehicles overnight plus drop food all over the seats and carpets. This is inviting rats and cockroaches into your car. Having a cat does help a lot as others have stated above. I got one a few weeks back. On another note, when cleaning after the messes they've made, make sure you wear gloves. It’s also a good idea to wear a mask if the stench is too strong.
  2. I remember seeing an Adhesive Remover (spray can) by Wurth at L@ughs service station Koswatta, and I guess that could be used as well. Far more expensive than a can of WD-40 though.
  3. Thanks a lot for your feedback guys! Appreciate it. Thanks! Well my headlights are OK, so they don't require a complete cleanup. I'm just going to polish them before installation.
  4. 6. The reflective surface on my fog lamp was all dirty so I had to use an old toothbrush (dipped in car wash) to scrub the dirt off and wash it thoroughly with water. 7. Remove the masking tape off the lens (it should come off easily because it’s partially wet due to all the water) and leave everything to dry. If you have a compressor, you might want to blow the water off beforehand. Until the first lens dries out, you can start on the other one. 8. Apply clear coat on the lens’s outer surface. This acts as a protective layer on the lens and prevents future discolouration. (I had to skip this step because I didn’t have a can of clear coat with me, but I will be applying it before the fog lamps go into the car again). 9. After the lens is dried out, carefully put the lens and reflector back together. Make sure that there are no finger prints or other marks on the inner side of the lens as this is the last time we get a chance to clean it. Use the heat gun again to fasten the two halves together. 10. To give it a perfect seal, I used transparent silicone sealant and applied a very thin layer along the edge where the lens and the reflector meet. Done. Hope this will help someone. DIY experts, please share your thoughts on anything that I may have overlooked or done incorrectly. \ Other threads on headlight restoration: 1. How To Restore Your Headlights by jdnet 2. Most Easiest Way Of Restoring Your Head Lights by kushan 3. Diy Headlight Painting (Making Your Car Look Unique) by blkr6 Cheers!
  5. Hi Guys, My car is at the painter’s and since most of the external parts have been taken off for painting, I wanted make use of the opportunity and clean the fog lamps. One of the fog lamps in my car was badly discoloured due to water leaking into the assembly causing one of the screws to corrode and spread the corroded metal particles everywhere (see the images below and you’ll see what I mean). So anyway, I thought of writing a DIY for whoever might be interested in doing a full cleanup of their headlights or fog lights. I found a couple of DIYs on the forum about headlamp restoration, but thought of posting this since this is a full cleanup. Here goes… What you need: A heat gun (optional) | Silicone sealant | Sandpaper 1200 grit and 2000 grit | 3M rubbing compound (or Brasso) | Clear coat spray can (optional) | Masking Tape | A bowl of water | An old toothbrush | A little car wash | Tools to take the fog light assembly apart, a set of spanners and screwdrivers would do. 1. Take the fog lamp assembly out of your vehicle. My fog lamp assembly looked like this: See what I mean about the discolouration? Remove the mounting brackets and set them aside with the screws and clips that hold the lens and reflector in place. 2. Use the heat gun on the edge of the lens to heat the sealant and carefully pry out the lens using a screwdriver. Follow safety precautions specified on the instruction manual of your heat gun to avoid risk of injury. Once the sealant is heated up, it will start to melt partially and the lens will come out easily. There is another method to remove the lens and that is to pre heat an oven to about 200 degrees Fahrenheit and put the lens in there for about 3 – 5 mins max. Leaving the light in the oven for a longer time will cause the entire assembly to melt, so you might want to be careful with this method. 3. To avoid the sealant sticking to your hand and every surface it touches, cover the sealant using masking tape. I initially thought that the masking tape wouldn’t come off due to the sealant sticking to the tape itself, but I had no problem, it came off fine. 4. Using water and the sand paper cut away the dirt and discolouration on the lens. Tear a small part of the sand paper and dip it in water and start sanding evenly across the front of the lens. I had some paint marks on my lens so I had to use the 1500 grit sand paper on those areas while I was able to sand the other areas with 2000 grit. Make sure there is enough water on the lens while sanding. The lens will become a bit foggy after sanding, don’t worry about that as we’re going to take care of it in the next step. I had to sand the inside of the lens as well. 5. Apply 3M rubbing compound (or Brasso) on the lens and polish it until the lens is nice and transparent. BEFORE AFTER Continued...
  6. Welcome to the forum! Can you please be more specific on the noise? Is it a whine? a roar? a click?
  7. Fuel smell from the exhaust, black smoke and low fuel economy are all signs of an engine running rich. Your carburetor needs to be properly tuned to get around the issue. I'm not sure about a carburetor repair workshop around the area, but for the service, you can try L@ughs at Maharagama or Koswatta.
  8. I think terra is right. Either you're letting go of the accelerator a bit too late or your foot is a bit too heavy on the accelerator. Go easy on the accelerator and let go as you start to press the clutch. One other thing I think you have got mixed up is that the clutch is disengaged when you press the clutch pedal and engaged when you let go. So terra is right when he said "disengage the clutch".
  9. Congratulations guys! All the best in keeping AL clean!
  10. Agree with Peri and Schiffer. I went when I saw the photo and when I read the caption. lol
  11. And what some people don't know is that most of these fake phones don't even conform to radio frequency emission standards, thus prolonged use can be hazardous to health. One cannot be "practical" while being ignorant.
  12. Seriously? Honestly speaking, if you feel this way when you travel in any air conditioned vehicle, then you'd better see a doctor as JD suggested as you might be suffering from asthma or something. If it happens only in your car, first check if others are also experiencing the same. Try getting rid of any strong air fresheners you might be having in your car, and stop cleaning your interior with liquids that are strong. Some people can't stand them. If the situation persists, get your AC serviced, and inspect the ventilation duct (beneath the rear bumper in most cars) to see if it's blocked.
  13. Sounds to me like your air flow is set to "fresh" instead of "re-circulate". If the switch is already in the "re-circulate" position, it could be that the air direting mechanism is jammed (leaving the fresh air vent partially open) or because the spongy insulation around the vent doors are leaking fresh air into the car.
  14. If you hear a clunk when shifting into a particular gear while pressing the clutch, it could be because: 1. You are not pressing the clutch all the way down, thus the transmission is still (paritally) connected to a spinning engine. 2. Your clutch requires adjustment. I'm not sure if the Zen comes with a clutch cable, or hydraulic, but if it's the former, you should be able to get the cable adjusted so that the clutch disengages properly when the pedal is fully pressed. Hope this helps.
  15. Thanks Don, I understand what you mean and I agree with you on the fact that it’s better to get the trunk lid with the spoiler rather than messing up the existing one by drilling holes etc. 34K is something I am not too comfortable with right now, so the best bet is for me to give up my trunk lid and get the lid with the spoiler following a payment of 24k. As for fabricating a spoiler… I don’t think that’s something I want to settle for machang. I guess my requirement is too specific. Oh and the Evo VII spoiler is not the one, that is bigger and a bit more aggressive than the one in the image I have shared in my post above. But you’re absolutely right about the higher price online. Anyway, my car is at the paint workshop right now and it’s still being prepared for the bodywork, so I have a couple of more days until I can hunt for one. Got to know about another place at Bellanthota (thanks to trinity) and I will be checking it out tomorrow. Fingers crossed…
  16. Hi Guys, I was hunting for an OEM spoiler for my Lancer CS3A for about a week or so without luck. Did a clean sweep of the Delkanda strip (from Nugegoda to Kottawa), Checked Eur0Nipp0n, U$ @uto P@rts, J@pan L@nka and many other places including places that supply recon parts to UniMo. Even gave a call to a guy in Kurunegala (waiting on his response). However, there’s this one place that has a Cedia trunk lid (which is a perfect match) with an OEM spoiler and the guy is quoting 34K for it. He was willing to reduce only 10K if I gave my trunk lid in exchange. I'm not too happy about the deal. If you guys know of any places that could sell me an OEM Lancer CS spoiler, or if you seem to spot one in a shop on your way home , please let me know. Thanks! The wing I am looking for is a 2 spoke one (there is a 3 spoke version as well, not that) and it looks as follows: Cheers! PS: trinity, I hope you don’t mind me hijacking your thread a little bit.
  17. Happy birthday mate! Have a good one and an awesome year ahead!
  18. Nope, it isn't. Came across the same car again... and this time, it was parked.
  19. I didn't know there was a 0.0L version of the Cruze. (Spotted at Dehiwala)
  20. Discussed before. Please search. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/11255-mazda-3-axella/page__hl__+axela%20+mazda%20+3
  21. Great! Will keep doing the same in the future as well. Sorry, not with me mate.
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