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Davy

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Everything posted by Davy

  1. I suggest that you do not use kerosene (at least on the rubber bits) because kerosene can degrade rubber. Try diesel instead. For even better results, It would be ideal if you can go for an engine degreaser. But from your photos, I see that there's more rust than oil and grease, so you can for exaple paint your air filter housing, the cutout (mounted onto the passenger side engine bay wall) and replace the those rusted hose clips as well. It's all about detail on these engines, so even getting rid of the smallest bit of rust counts. As for the engine bay wall, you can try some rubbing compound or brasso to bring back that white again. Try this thread as well: http://forum.autolan...urfce-cleaning/ I just did a quick eBay search and found 2 left and right lenses, but it was the model with the silver rim around the lens. You should be able to find the lenses from here though. If I see them somewhere, you'll be the first to know.
  2. Maaan... another great set of photos. Awesome stuff Sampath! Keep 'em coming!
  3. Someone who believes in "distiny".
  4. Love the fact that it still looks the way it left the showroom. My first car was also a station wagon and I too admired the fact that it was rear wheel drive, no servo brakes, no power steering. So I know exactly what you mean when you said that you enjoy it. Good luck continuing to keep her in good shape!
  5. Ah I see... That makes sense. I was wondering who would collect such an amount of cars and let them corrode to death like that. Passing the place every morning on the way to work is kinda heartbreaking.
  6. Yeah look like it had caught fire... wonder how the front tyre survived though. By the way, there's a car graveyard sort of place on the Hokandara - Kottawa road and I saw some oldies rotted away. Has anyone else spotted the place? Will try to snap a photo or two. It's inside a land and it looks like it's occupied by a bunch of people, so I was not too comfortable about stepping inside.
  7. I have to agree with the others. The police fellows might have been trying to rip you off. Like terra said, some vehicles have the number plate mounting brackets towards the left or right side of the bumper. The Delica T120 we had ages ago had both the front and rear number plate mounts on the driver's side.
  8. Thanks for the comments guys! Thanks! It's one of the workshop manuals machang. Printed the sections related to bodywork before putting the car into paint. They're shared in the thread below: http://forum.autolan...available-here/ I bought the tape from Nil@nk@ Motors at Wellawatta (sometime back). They even sold it in meters (75 bucks a meter, the whole roll cost about 1200) I'm sure you'll be able to find the stuff around Colombo machang. Try shops that sell 3M products. I remember Pr3mium St@tioners at Liberty Plaza having them. lol. No machang, just the body repair manual and the sections on the exterior parts that might come in handy to the mechanics when re-installing the parts. There was an entire section on body colour and bumper alignment and stuff, so it was just a matter of giving the manuals to the painter and the mechanics at the workshop. They even asked if I got them from UniMo . Thanks! They're two separate badges. The one in the first photo is a cheap badge from Darley Road (which doesn't even come close to the original). Just bought it because it was cheap and I thought it might look better than the original. I was wrong. The one with joints (the original) will be what will go on the car.
  9. A little tip: Badges you buy from the shops or off the web may not always have the correct adhesive on the reverse side and may fall off. I lost a Ralli Art badge because it had a bad tape on the reverse side. And this GLX badge I bought off eBay, you can see from the photo below how thin the adhesive is. The stickiness of the tape is also not that great, so I’m going to cover this with the 3M tape as well. You might think that this is not important if you're planning on riveting the badge, even so, a weak adhesive layer may lead the rivet hole to corrode since it doesn't properly seal the gap between the badge and the vehicle body (as mentioned in the original post). Edit: Updated image URLs
  10. Hi Guys, The badges of my car had to be removed prior to a paint job and now it’s time to put them back on because the paint job is complete. The badges cannot simply go on the car as they are, because the remaining parts of the double sided tape are still on the reverse side of the badges. That has to be be taken out and new tape has to be pasted so that they firmly hold on to the body without falling off. I thought of writing a DIY with the intention of helping someone who might want to do this at home without visiting Darley Road. What you need: 3M double sided tape | a sharp blade | 150 grit sandpaper | 3M rubbing compound (optional) | Cotton rags | A flat surface to work on A bit of advice on handling the badges first: - Be VERY gentle on them. The last thing you want to do is snap one in half or crack them. Except for the common models, these badges can be hard to find. I had to buy the GLX badge that you see in the images below, from eBay after sweeping Panchikawatta for one and failing. - Secondly, be cautious when working with the blade. If you’re not sure that you’ll cut into your fingers, wear a pair of gloves. - Finally, put an old cardboard or some sheets of newspaper over the work table to avoid cutting into the table with the blade. Let’s begin… 1. The first step is to clean the badge. Use the blade to remove the remaining glue or double sided tape. You can rip the double sided tape remainings with your fingers as well. After most of the stuff has been removed, it will look like this: 2. Before pasting the new double sided tape, the surface needs to be smooth, so we’re going to use the 150 grit sand paper to smoothen the surface out. I’m going to do the entire process for the letter “R” in my LANCER badge from this point onward and it’s pretty much the same for the rest as well. Keep the badge on the flat surface and start sanding until the last bits of glue disappear and until the surface is nice and smooth. 3. The double sided tape can now be pasted on the badges. The tape I had was not wide enough to cover the entire height of the badge, so I had to paste two stripes. I recommend having a wider tape so that the job is much easier. Paste the double sided tape carefully. Make sure you cover the entire reverse side of the badge. If you decide to rivet the badge later, having covered the entire badge will prevent water from reaching the rivet hole, thus corroding the body/trunk lid. Cut the excess parts of the tape with the blade making sure you don’t scratch the front side of the badge. For letters with an enclosed area in the middle (i.e.: A, B, D, O, P, Q and R), turn the badge over and cut the opening from the reverse side. This is one of the tricky parts of the process and requires a steady hand. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the remaining letters of the badge and we’re done. Following is the Mitsubishi three diamond logo that I did with just a few cuts on the tape. 4. Use the plastic rubbing compound and polish the chrome parts of the badge to give them a shine and to remove dirt stuck in the hard to reach areas. That’s about it, now the badges are ready to go on the car. I’ll be pasting the badges on the car within a couple of days, so stay tuned for more posts. Your comments are welcome as always. EDIT: Updated image URLs
  11. +1 Watchman. I don't think you learnt the proper lesson here. It's not to beware when someone meddles with the belt, it's to stay with the vehicle if it meant for "a few hours". You've spent much more than a few hours of waiting now haven't you?
  12. So they ARE hiding in plain sight... Or are they?
  13. Right, so your problem is not in the fuel pump, it's in your carburetor. And as The Don said, you're trying to treat the symptoms rather than the actual issue here. My advice would be for you to first get a good mechanic to overhaul your carburetor. There should be something very trivial wrong with your carburetor and a competent mechanic should be able to figure it out. The workshop manual below will have everything you need to know about your specific type of carburetor (there were 4 types). Print the manual and take it with you to the workshop and carefully identify what's wrong. I have helped diagnose many carburetor issues this way. 4G Series Fuel System - Carburetor - Workshop Manual If you're thinking of converting the fuel pump to electric because of this issue, you might want to think again. Hope this helps. Good luck!
  14. Brought my baby home after 24 days of being in the paint workshop, and she just looks amazing! :)

    1. Show previous comments  9 more
    2. kushan

      kushan

      yeah plz Davy, want to know how they charged, I tried a place in Maligatawatte and they said they need 8.5K for bonnet, and 7.5K for the each other part (door, fenders etc..)

    3. Davy

      Davy

      @Kushan, check your inbox.

    4. kushan

      kushan

      replied Davy, and Thanks :)

  15. Right. so, still the total comes up to an amount significantly less than the value of the item (a used one that is) in Sri Lanka. Thanks for the info machang. Will keep everyone posted.
  16. Machang, the first one is the identical one we checked out on Amazon (but a lot cheaper). Sent a message to the seller asking about shipping. The second one however is a spoiler for the CK series and not the CS. An update about my spoiler hunt... As for the Cedia trunk lid (which was the only option back then), I decided to let it go because the cost was way over my budget for a spoiler. And I feel like ordering an OEM spoiler off eBay seems better. Thanks for pointing me in that direction trinity. Does anyone know about the taxes that I will be charged at customs for bringing down one that costs about 55 USD?
  17. LancerL, 1. The mechanical fuel pump in your engine is a sealed type pump, so the answer to your first question is, No. 2. If I were you, I'd buy a brand new mechanical pump to avoid messing with the engine & electrics. They're quite reliable as well. If you're going for an electric pump, you will first of all have to seal off the place (on the valve body) to where the fuel pump is fixed via a push rod. 3. Not sure about this but there are electric fuel pump conversion kits that are available with a stop valve mechanism implemented by tapping into the oil pressure switch. 4. The mechanical fuel pump cost me about 2500 at Panchikawatta in 2010. Maybe someone else with experience installing electric fuel pumps will be able to shed some light on rough conversion costs.
  18. You're right Peri. The milk part is there on both billboards. This photo is edited.
  19. Edit: I think this should go into the following thread: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/2336-nick-names-for-cars-in-sl/page__hl__nicknames
  20. My car was just painted yesterday. Used Sikkens 2K products and it was painted in a booth after which it sat there for about an hour under heat. 3 base coats and 2 clear coats were applied and the paint seems to have dried off really quick (in about 12 hours or so). I did the finger print test and the paint was pretty hard, so I have to agree with Harshan on the fast initial drying process. Also, the painter said that they do a mild cut and polish about 24 hours after the paint job and that it doesn’t affect the finish as the clear coat they’re applying is quite thick. He further stated that the car should not be waxed for at least another month, up until the point where they do the full cut and polish.
  21. Scooter, most of the Mitsubishi 4G series engine workshop manuals (plus more) have already been shared on the forum, just FYI. 4G1 series: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/9732-lancer-service-manuals-available-here/ 4G3 Series: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/9710-lancer-a72-saturn-engine/#entry143677 4G9 Series: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/13828-4g91-service-manual/
  22. That depends. Usually discolouration happens on the outside, so cleaning the outer side of the lens is sufficient in most situations. But in cases like mine where there has been water and rust inside the light, it is necessary to clean the inside as well. (I had to sand both sides as quoted below) Hope this answers your question.
  23. Yeah, I read about it on the forum also recently. Thanks for the reminder. But since this plastic housing goes behind the front bumper and remains hidden from outside, I didn't see any point in cleaning it any further. For the metal parts it was a different story because they are prone to corrosion. Edit: Thanks again for all your comments and feedback guys! Really appreciate it!
  24. A little update: Since I decided to call this a “full cleanup”, I thought it’s only logical to clean every component of the fog light assembly before it goes into the car. So I cleaned the external plastic housing and metal brackets as well. Also painted the metal brackets as it had scratches and signs of corrosion that’s about to happen. What you need: Water (a garden hose would be ideal) | A brush to scrub the brackets | Car wash | 1200 grit sand paper | Black spray paint can The process: 1. Clean the plastic housing using water, car wash and use a brush to scrub the grime away. Leave them out to dry. That’s about it for the plastic housing. 2. As for the metal brackets, wash them thoroughly and sand them down and prepare for painting. Make sure you cover all the nooks and crannies of the brackets. Let them dry. 3. Hang the brackets (using a wire) to a tree branch or something and spray an even coat of paint over them. Again, make sure you cover all the areas of the brackets. Once done, Leave them to dry. Before (Left) and After (Right) painting. 4. Put everything back together and you’re done! Now the lights are ready to go back into the car, and now they're almost like new.
  25. Please go through this thread: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/14220-low-cost-paint/
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