Davy

Although not a DIY per say, I think all drivers need to know how to do his as it is as important as knowing how to change your tyres in case one goes flat. If your car can be jump started, the instructions would be there in the owner's manual as well, including the specs of the source vehicle that you should be using. I honestly didn't know that there were old cars with a positive ground. This is good info. Thanks!

Congratulations Sampath! You've done a great job in sharing catalogs and brochures which I'm sure helped many members in getting to know info about a particular car (they personally helped me). Also, the historic images thread is something I enjoy reading and looking at without fail. You're one good example, showing everyone that you don't necessarily need to have grease under your fingernails to contribute to the forum. Keep up the good work!

Good one! By the way, I think it's your turn now.

Okay I know this, but I'll let someone else take a guess.

Correct! I didn't think that it would be easy. Your turn! And yes machang, we have them in Sri Lanka. In fact, when I was living in my previous home, there was a black one in the neighbourhood. I think I've seen another gray one.

Okay try this guys... rare car in SL:

Removed this: I got it nexus... You were 4 minutes ahead of me!

I could use a wider view if you don't mind.

lol. Thanks bro. Results of the recent paint job gone well. The best part is that a cut & polish has not even been done yet! By the way, if anyone else wants to share a badge related DIY, you're more than welcome to use this thread.

Thanks Sylvi! Always nice to see positive feedback.

Very well done trinity! That's one neat shortcut you've found there. I can only imagine the trouble you would have had to go through if you kept measuring for each letter instead of making that stencil. Good thinking! My Lancer badge went up on the bottom left hand corner of the trunk lid (original location on mine), so the work involved in pasting it was significantly less. But as you said, I couldn't have done it without that workshop manual giving details up to the very last millimetre. Here's mine after pasting the Lancer and GLX badges.

How true!

Damn, and I thouhgt it would be tough. Your turn Schiffer.

I haven't seeen one here myself, but I remember seeing one in an article or something sometime back. Since we're on classics , Here goes... I hope this isn't too tough:

'70s Nissan Gloria?

The brand new Lancer CS series imported to Sri Lanka came under two grades: GL and GLX. GLX is the full option version. Both these grades came with 1.3 (CS1) and 1.6 (CS3) engines. While most brand new pre facelift CS1s in Sri Lanka are “GL”s, you might be able to find a full option (GLX) CS1 as well if you look around a little bit. But I doubt they will fit into your budget constraints though Like bogzy and trinity have already mentioned, availability of spares is not a problem. Although my CS3 hasn’t been to all the corners of Sri Lanka (at least after I bought it) like trinity’s CS1, I’m totally with him on the fact that the CS is very reliable, based the 4 years ownership. You'll get a better understanding of the different grades if you go through the links below. Specifications here | Options here and here | Full brochure here. (Credits to Sampath Gunasekara) And sorry, I too have no experience with an EK3, so I am unable to comment on it. Good Luck!

Removed... already answered.

STEP 3: Prepare the new element As you can see from the photo below, the elements are not identical. So the new element has to be prepared so that it can go into the flexor of the frameless housing. The difference was that one of the groves on the Bosche element didn’t reach the edge of the element; I used a cutting blade to extend the grove to the edge of the element. STEP 4: Re-filling the old frameless wiper Slide in the new bosche element into the old frameless Wurth flexor, it will just go in, no hassle. For some unknown reason, the Wurth 24 inch wiper was about a centimeter shorter than the Bosche 24inch one. So I had to use the blade to cut out the edge for the frameless housing to be able to accommodate the Bosche element. Also, the Wurth element could freely move back and forth about half a centimeter within the housing, so that was also thought of when making the cut. Make sure the cut is perfectly straight. Install the plastic cover on the edge of the housing and you are done… You’ve just re-filled your old frameless wiper blades without a re-fill kit.

Hi Guys, I experimented with something that might come in handy for some of you guys, so I thought of sharing it. My car has Wurth frameless wipers (which cost me about 5500 back in early 2011) and now their time is up. So when I inquired about the price of a new pair, I found out that it had gone up to 7500. I seriously didn’t want to spend 3000 bucks extra just for frameless wipers because the normal Bosche wipers were about 3500 a pair. So I bought the Bosche (normal) pair. I searched for many places in Colombo to see if I can find wiper re-fill kit, but I couldn’t (Thanks for all those who helped including GTAm and H.C). eBay was out of the question in my case because the blades were really bad and I couldn’t drive around with the old set until the blades arrived. I was disappointed that I had to take off the frameless wipers because they looked way better than ordinary wipers. So I looked for the possibility of switching just the element from the new Bosche wiper, to the old Wurth housing. And it worked! Using them for over a week now without any issue. You need: A set of worn out frameless Wipers (in my case, Wurth), The new normal wipers (Bosche in my case), A micro screwdriver and a sharp blade. STEP ONE: Taking off the element from the new wiper The Bosche wiper had one location at with the frame held the element in place without letting it slide off the frame (as seen in the photo below). Use the flathead screwdriver and pry out the element from the frame. After that, the element can be pulled out from the frame. Most wiper elements with a frame has a stainless steel flexor to maintain the rigidity of the wiper element, the Bosche wipers I bought also had this, take the flexor off. It will just fall off once the element is removed. We do not need the flexor because the frameless wiper housing has a steel flexor. Now you have something equivalent to a re-fill. STEP TWO: Taking off the element from the OLD frameless wiper The two ends of the Wurth wiper could be easily removed with the use of the flathead micro screwdriver. Press the locations marked as “1” and pull the end out. Removing one end is sufficient as the element can be pulled out from same. Continued...

Thank you Jaliya48. Thanks mensoft. Good to know that someone else also thought of the two racing stripes. It was just that the bonnet was sculptured in such a way that the lines were welcome... so I couldn't make up my mind to not put them on. As for the photo of the carburetor, I'm so sorry this car is no more with me I didn't have control over having to let her go because it was sold without my consent (Long story). Anyway, I have shared the Engine Workshop Manual for the 4G33 engine, please search the forum and you will find every bit of detail you need to know about the carburetor (and choke) in the Workshop Manual.

Thanks! About parts, yes engine and other mechanical parts are still easy to find and as I have mentioned on this thread before, I sourced all the parts for this car from Panchikawatta. When it comes to body panels, dashboard and other exterior components (like windscreens and windows), only the "watta"s in Panchikawatta will have the stuff and they sometimes quote insane prices for them. Luckily all the body panels and what not were in good condition on this car. I had to walk about in the "watta"s to hunt for a new steering box, a new wire harness, the timing belt cover, complete front disk break assembly and some door handles which were broken due to 30 years of use.

More info here.

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Holy sh!t! :-O The centre of gravity in that thing should be so high up that it would topple even while taking the slightest bends! There seriously should be regulations against these kinda "mods".