Davy

Happy belated birthday MADZ! All the best and keep up the awesome work you're doing to keep the forum running.

I'm not sure if this applied to all vehicles in general, but my engine workshop manual specifically says this:

Ah the famous "Pit Boool's" song... Saw it a couple of days back. Guess they didn't get the message when they failed massively trying to mimic Gangnam style. Introducing the "champ" of night racing (@1:40). It's ironic how they have called it "Loka Vinaasayata Pera". A word of advice: You might fall off your seats listening to this, so brace yourselves.

The number after the letters "CS" refer to the type of engine that's on the car. According to my knowledge, the CS series came from CS1 to CS9 and each of those engine types were meant for a specific market across the globe. For Sri Lanka, only the CS1A and CS3A were supplied through UniMo as stated above. So if you see any other CS*A on the road, it's probably a JDM import. The reason as to why most CS2A Lancers in Sri Lanka have GDI engines is because they were originally meant for domestic usage in Japan. However, I personally have come across a CS2A in Sri Lanka with an EFI engine. Finding one will be very difficult in my opinion. For the price you spend on a CS2A, you could lay your hands on a CS3A (imported brand new) if you're lucky. This CS3A was spotted by a friend of mine and while we were on the way to inspect the car, another fellow had and made an advance payment and gone. I'm guessing it was just hours after the ad was placed on AL. As for the discouragement on GDI engines, I can't say much about it because I have not used a vehicle with a GDI engine. From what I have heard, they're not as fuel efficient as EFI engines and require 95 octane or higher to run. Maybe someone who owns a GDI can be of assistance.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think UniMo brings down the ASX.

Maaan, those seats look awesome! Love the read stitch on black, good choice. And the job looks like it's very neatly done. I'll make sure to contact you if some day I'm in need of a job like this. Good luck with the project mate. Keep 'em coming!

Correct! And I thought it would be difficult... Over to you Schiffer.

I would have never guessed the bike... Just saw one of these at Kolpetty a few minutes ago:

Glad you were able to diagnose the issue. Looks like you were able to tighten some loose ends of the circuit (like figuring out the wire from the AC relay) while you were at it as well. As for the coolant temperature switch, does it still iteratively keep turning off after about 2 seconds of operation? Doesn't sound normal to me however. According to the manual, the switch should turn on at 85C and go off at 78C. 7C in 2 seconds sounds a bit off. Better get the switch checked out. About there being 3 lines on the fan connector, I assume this is a replacement fan which was meant for a Mitsubishi with a fan control unit. The additional line should be the line that supplies current for the fan to run on a lower speed.

I remember this being shared on the forum sometime back, but not all of these have been implemented yet. Only two have been implemented, and they are driving under the influence of alchohol (12 points), and causing a serious/fatal accident (12 points). Just to answer your question: "waachika widhaana" means commands/instructions that were verbally communicated (to a driver by a cop, in this case). I was not able to locate the info on the RMV site, the only online resource I found was this.

This is not a Toyota specific oil filter removal tool, it's comes as part of a set used to remove differently sized oil filters and is accompanied with a socket wrench as The Don has already mentioned, and can be used on a large range of vehicles. I haven't used this personally, but have seen it being used at service stations. If you want to know about how to use this, it's as simple as placing it on top of the oil filter and turning it counter clockwise to loosen and clockwise to fasten. Somewhat like removing a bolt with a socket wrench. As for the tool with the chain, it's adjustable and can be used to remove most oil filters. Here's a custom made oil filter removal tool (chain type) I've managed to capture at a service station.

Ah I see. I completely missed the fact that the "Members" button gets highlighted when the messenger is loaded. I was a bit confused because when I press the "View New Content" button for the second time (after step 4 in my list of steps), it loads the new threads on the forum. Sorry for the false alarm, and thanks for the prompt response.

Hi Madz, Sorry for popping up an old thread, just thought of letting you know about an observation that I've made a couple of times which might be something that is not the intended behaviour of the forum. This is a minor issue in my opinion. Let me list down the steps so that you can try to re-create it on your own. 1. From any page, click on the "Messenger" envelope icon on the top bar. A list of most recent messages in the inbox is shown. 2. Select a message thread from the aforementioned list. The message thread is loaded. 3. While on this message thread, click on the "View New Content" button on the top of the page. 4. AutoLanka takes you to a page with the most recently registered members (instead of loading the New Content index page). I assume that the above behaviour is unintentional, and that the "View New Content" button should take the user back to the index page with the latest content. Hope this will help you diagnose the issue. Keep up the good work in keeping the forum running smoothly. Cheers! Davy

Wishing everyone on the forum a happy and prosperous new year! Drive safe!

Thanks Crosswind! Waiting until I can try this on my car.

Great writeup Crosswind! Thanks for sharing this as I also have just ordered an ELM327 from eBay myself. I haven't got a phone with Android with me, so I'm looking at installing a compatible software (like SanTool .NET or EasyOBD) on my PC and connecting to the ELM327 device through bluetooth. Scanator looks awesome! And is there any particular reason as to why you prefer Scanator over Torque Pro (except because Sanator is free)? Will definitely come back to this DIY when I'm about to get it configured on my Android phone some day.

Interesting question. First of all, I’m happy to see that you have done your homework before posting on the forum. Reading through your requirements, you don’t seem to be having many options. If the garage floor is 2feet above the road level and if you can only extend a ramp that is 2feet in length (along the ground), you’re going to form an angle of 45 degrees which is too steep for most cars. I did some Googling myself just a while ago and it looks like the recommended angle is 15 – 20 degrees max. After some calculations, the length of the ramp (along the ground) would have to be ranging from about 5.5 feet to 7.4 feet for 20 and 15 degrees respectively. If we assume that you’re going to go for a 20 degree angle, we’re looking at 5.5 feet along the ground from the road to your wall, which is way over your restrictions. So, have you thought about having one part of the garage floor sloped down (the part towards the wall) while the rest is flat? Since only a small part is sloped down, it’s very unlikely that either the front or the rear wheels (of the vehicle being parked) will be sitting on the slope. If you’re going for the above method, you might have to go for a sliding gate or a roller door. Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps. Good luck!

ROFLMAO. This just made my day... Sylvi is Watchman!!! Keep doing your investigation mate, I'm waiting until you say something like Cali's double is jdnet or something.... you should change your username to Quixtar007.

Please note that the topic title says "YOUR top speed" and not "Top speeds that you were told about". Thanks!

Big Daddy... What the "ambassador" wants it to be: What it really looks like:

Replied to your question in this post as it looked more relevant in that thread.

Replying to Jaliya's question in Reconditioning Emblems and Badges - Post #22 Original question was: Usually, the paint is never stripped down to bear metal unless there's something seriously wrong with the existing paintwork or if there's corrosion which needs to be repaired. The reason for this is most new cars have a zinc based protective coating around the metal to protect it from corrosion, and stripping it down to bear metal will remove this layer. On mine, only the bonnet was stripped down to bear metal from the outside, because the previous paintwork was really bad and there were bubbles and cracks all over. The rest was just smoothened out (damage repaired and primer applied wherever necessary) and repainted. All the products that were used were Sikkens (filler, primer, base coat, clear coat etc.), and yes, it was done in a paint booth. I painted it according to the original colour code (it’s a metallic black) Cost me close to 100,000 LKR for the whole thing. Took them 3.5 weeks (estimate was 2 weeks). If you want to do a proper paint job, I suggest you collect cash and do it properly instead of cutting corners. I had to wait a long time until I was financially strong to attempt this. And it was worth it in the end. A link to a few photos of how the paint job went: here.

Maan.... you're good! And I was wondering if it was too tough. Will make it a point to make it tougher next time. Floor is yours nexus. Edit: Here's the full photo:

Here you go...

First gen Toyota Prius?