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Davy

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Davy last won the day on July 7

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About Davy

  • Rank
    Pro Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne (current) and Colombo (home)

My Vehicle Details

  • Vehicle Make
    Mitsubishi
  • Vehicle Model
    2011 Lancer RalliArt
  • Engine Type
    2.0L DOHC MIVEC Turbo (4B11T)
  • Mechanical Mods
    BC Racing BR Coilovers
  • Cosmetic Mods
    Evo X BBS wheels
  • Future Plans
    Blow off valve, OEM Projector headlamps

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  1. Davy

    Quick Trivia 3

    I'm guessing it was imported from Australia. They were apparently used by tradies extensively back in the day to haul their equipment, just like they use utes and trucks today. Hence the lack of windows (i.e "panel van"). Interesting indeed to see one in Sri Lanka. Looks to be in good nick too! As for the number, I guess it's registered as a light lorry. 33 and 34 Sri were used for light lorries. The most famous of them being the Mitsubishi Delica T120 which is technically a van, but registered in the light lorry category.
  2. 1. When you start the car in the morning (AC off), does the RPM rise to around 1500 and slowly return to around 700 as the engine warms up? Or does it settle at 1100? Also, when this happens, stop the car and let it idle with the AC on and observe if the fluctuation happens with the AC compressor engaging on and off. If the answer to any of the above questions is "no", then it's likely that you have a sticking or faulty Idle Air Control Valve. If you haven't done a fuel system cleanup (i.e "tuneup") recently, then I suggest getting one done first. 2. Difficult to say without actually taking it for a test drive. But is the vibration coming from the front of the car? Maybe check if one or more of the wheel balancing weights have fallen off - this is probably the most simplest thing to check. Just do a wheel balance and that will address any balancing issues if there are any. 3. Marginally low I would say. Is this an automatic? And did you carry out the full tank to full tank method to calculate fuel consumption? Looking at issues 1 and 3, if you haven't got tune done recently, it's best you get one done. Get the throttle body cleaned up (be extra careful not to damage the IACV as spraying TB cleaner directly will most definitely damage it). Get the injectors cleaned and check the condition of your air and fuel filters and spark plugs and replace as necessary.
  3. Gosh, sounds like they've made a bit of a mess. They should have just rinsed that part then and there. The thing with this gen Lancer is that the intake is at the front, so quite a bit of sensors close to the radiator compared to older generations where the exhaust was at the front, and you could be a bit more careless with water splash, and even wash the radiator area.
  4. Nope, it shouldn't degrade plastic or metal parts. I don't understand how they can mess up the engine bay though. I mean the coolant is drained from the bottom. And if they used a funnel to fill it in, there really shouldn't be any spillage.
  5. Hi @pasindu tharaka, welcome to the forum! Please refrain from creating multiple threads across different sections of the forum. I have now merged your threads. As for your issue, I'd start by checking all the vacuum lines first for a leaks. Make sure all rubber vacuum hoses are properly secured and that they don't have cracks. Next would be the idle air control valve that you should check. It might be sticking due to carbon deposits or faulty. Do a throttle body clean and get the IACV carefully cleaned as well.
  6. Sounds like a fuel pressure problem like others have mentioned. Do the following test just before a cold start to confirm: 1. Turn the ignition to the ON position (don't start) 2. Leave it on for 30 seconds 3. Start the car If it starts first time, then it's definitely a fuel pressure issue.
  7. Davy

    Lancer Ck2

    Hi @Dasun Sanjaya, welcome to the forum. Please refrain from posting the same topic across multiple sections of the forum. The CK Lancer has been extensively discussed, so you might want to search the forum as well. Click here for search results. Threads merged.
  8. Saw this on Facebook a few days ago and almost cried. What a tragic way for such a beauty to go. 😢 As someone who has experienced a car fire (not nearly as bad), I can relate to how traumatic it can be; even if the occupants weren't physically injured.
  9. I suggest that you get genuine parts when it comes to the timing belt, tensioner and oil seal, regardless of whether you get the replacement done at the agent or not.
  10. Oh I see. I don't remember seeing this in the workshop manual. Good to know. Yeah you should be fine draining just the radiator. I don't think even the agent drains the block.
  11. I'm a fan of body coloured mirrors and less chrome on cars that have a sporty look. But that's just me. It looks alright. 🙂 More or less. But since I don't use the flushing chemical, I don't do most of what's mentioned in step 2 and 3 (leaving the engine running with the hose running water into the radiator). As I mentioned earlier, there's no specific way to drain the engine block. When you drain coolant from the radiator, most if not all coolant in the engine block will flow to the radiator under gravity and exit the system. So you are draining the engine block as well. In summary, this is what I do: 1. While the engine is cool, remove the radiator cap and expansion tank cap. Remove the drain plug and let all the coolant drain out. Prior to doing this, it's good to have left the car idle with heater on so that the coolant goes through the core and the thermostat opens. But do not open the radiator cap until the engine is reasonably cool. Use an old rag to open the cap if it's warm, incrementally opening it to vent the pressure. And be careful. 2. Plug the drain and fill the radiator with water. Drain again. Repeat until you see clear water draining out. One or two repeats would do. 3. Empty the expansion tank and rinse well with water. On the EX, the expansion tank can't be taken out easily, so removing the rubber hose at the bottom of the expansion tank is how you'd drain it. Keep the hose off while you rinse with water. 4. Once done, connect all hoses, plug the radiator drain and fill the radiator with coolant. Fill the expansion tank halfway in between the min and max markers. 5. With the radiator cap off, start the car. Let it idle for 20 minutes with the heater on. This will bleed the air out. 6. You're done. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge and expansion tank coolant level for the next 20 - 50km.
  12. 1. You can keep your existing shock struts and just swap out the springs. This is the cheapest option. If the gap is all you care about, this would be the way to go. Obviously you won't get the adjustable height and rebound/stiffness settings that you get with a set of coilovers, but this is a good way to lose some height. 2. Agree 18" is the way to go. And the wheels @K.o.N.o.S has on his EX are the stock RalliArt rims which are 18" 7JJ wide and +46 offset, wrapped in 225/40 R18. You will feel a difference in comfort as soon as you go for the bigger wheel with narrower sidewall, but the car will handle much much better. Especially after being lowered. The compromise in comfort isn't much. I hope @K.o.N.o.S will agree. My setup is much more aggressive, but she's a weekender, so I don't mind. 3. Tyre size mentioned above. I like the cleaner look without it too.
  13. That shine! 😍 Did the chrome side mirror covers come with the car? I doubt they did. Ooh I had forgotten that yours had an Evo spoiler! Love how the wheels fill those arches - just the right amount of low. 😁 I just noticed that the body coloured moulding that goes across the middle of the doors are missing in mine. Searched local classifieds and found out that none of the cars here have it. By the way @Hyaenidae, here's a DIY thread for you if you want to attempt it yourself. Note that a flushing liquid is used here, but you can skip that step. I'm sure you can pull it off. I have lost count of the number of times I've done coolant changes myself - it's that easy.
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