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Davy

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Davy last won the day on November 13

Davy had the most liked content!

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About Davy

  • Rank
    Pro Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne (current) and Colombo (home)

My Vehicle Details

  • Vehicle Make
    Mitsubishi
  • Vehicle Model
    2011 Lancer RalliArt
  • Engine Type
    2.0L MIVEC Turbo (4B11T)
  • Cosmetic Mods
    Evo X BBS wheels
  • Future Plans
    BC Racing coilovers, Blow off valve, OEM Projector headlamps

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Engine start up failure

    For sure. The issue is that the car isn't starting up at all, and my opinion is that all the low level parameters that you've mentioned can be looked into once the engine is fired up. For now, I think OP should just concentrate on getting the engine running - even misfiring and coughing up like an old grandpa. Also, from memory, I think OBD 1 doesn't have most of what OBD II has like short term and long term fuel trim. I do remember it having injector pulse width and ignition advance.
  2. Sorry to hear about the accident. At the same time, glad it wasn't a kid that ran across the road you hit. There are three things you need to drive a car in Sri Lanka, apart from your license. 1. Good brakes 2. Good horn 3. Good reflexes If there is still sufficient amount of meat in the rotors/drums, and if it's the original ones, I'd just opt to resurfacing over buying new ones. Resurfacing not only bumps up the friction on the surface, but if the surface is warped, it will straighten those out as well. So they will be as good as new once done. Also, these cheap Brembo spares in Panchi, are they the real deal or counterfeit ones? Worth checking first.
  3. Engine start up failure

    I wouldn't recommend connecting a random bulb to the injector connector. There are bulb kits out there specially made to do what you're trying to achieve. They have the correct resistance and make sure you don't fry your ECU. If I were you, I'd do the first method where you use a long flathead screwdriver to touch each injector while listening to the ticking noise. If you hear something unusual there, then you can move on to removing them. Also, since you know the resistance range of the injectors, you can use a multimeter to check if any one of them have an out of range resistance.
  4. 2018 Budget - Vehicle import duty

    I'm sorry I don't represent the government, so I have no idea.
  5. Engine start up failure

    According to what you've done already, it looks like your charging system is working and since you're battery is new, I assume we're getting a sufficient current to the starter. So you now need to verify that the three main elements for an engine to start, is being supplied consistently - Air, Fuel and Spark. I think you first should do a diagnostic scan to make sure your crankshaft and camshaft position sensors are working. Those two sensors work in harmony to ensure each injector squirts out fuel and that each cylinder gets a spark when at the right moment. On most Japanese cars I've taken apart, the crank sensor controls the spark and the cam sensor controls fuel delivery. If you see a P0335 or a P0340, then you've found your issue. If you don't have the equipment to carry out a diagnostic scan, you can manually check each injector to see if they're squirting out fuel. One method is to place a probe (or screwdriver) on each injector and placing your ear on the other end to listen to a consistent ticking sound (injector opening and closing), while someone else cranks the engine. The other is to remove connector from each injector and do a signal test. The last (and messy) way to do it is to partially remove the fuel rail, disconnect all spark plugs and visually inspect fuel being squirted out out of each injector while carefully holding the fuel rail, all injectors pointing into their respective cylinder. I've based this response based on what you've found so far and have assumed that your ignition coils and spark plugs are okay. Also note that although the fuel pump is buzzing when the ignition is switched on, it might not be maintaining proper fuel pressure. To check this, you need a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the fuel rail and check if the reading (ON, crank, idle) are within range.
  6. Zoltron does it work

    This has been discussed to death on the forum many times. Can you please search the forum before opening new topics?
  7. Used buffer for Lancer CS1 2008

    You should be able to find these by the dozen at Delkanda and shops like Euron!ppon, US [email protected] parts etc.
  8. Japanese Car News

    Yeah. Just saw it. Thanks! Posted out of surprise and frustration. That was an Australian site too. https://www.goauto.com.au/news/subaru/wrx/sti/calm-down-ndash-subaru-has-not-axed-wrx-sti/2017-11-02/67129.html
  9. Japanese Car News

    Not long after Mitsubishi announced axing of the Lancer Evolution, rival Subaru has ended the STi. Two great legends - one absolutely memorable era. http://performancedrive.com.au/2018-subaru-wrx-sti-final-edition-says-goodbye-era-0123/ Edit: Apparently this only affects the the UK market. Done due to the emission regulations. Had a heart attack for a moment there. Phew!
  10. Car Battery

    A proper battery check will reveal if the battery is nearing the end of its lifetime. The CCA (Cold Cranking Amperage) of the battery drops as the battery gets old and this is something that can be tested easily. If everything is within range, don't worry. If you're still concerned, keep a pair of jumper cables in your car in case of an emergency.
  11. AC vacuume pump and gauges

    Agree with @Twin Turbo. If all you're going to work on is your car, the investment you'll have to make on all the equipment will outweigh the actual benefits. Remember that it's not only gauges that you will have to buy. You'll need welding equipment, refrigerant and many other tools as well, depending on what needs to be repaired. Also, a properly maintained and repaired AC system can run for years on end without issues. So again, your investment will not be of actual benefit.
  12. AC stopped working

    The evaporator is likely to have sprung a leak. Take your car to an AC workshop and get them to perform a pressure test. If the pressure doesn't hold, the leak needs to be found, plugged (or component replaced) and the system recharged.
  13. The ignition coil rubber seal swelling issue is a known issue on this engine. Faced this myself on my CS3. Although it doesn't enter the cavity totally, the end snaps into place with the spark plug top and it doesn't cause any issues (at least for me it didn't). After many years, it kept swelling more and more on my CS3, and what I did was carefully shave off some rubber from the seal which caused it to sit perfectly on the engine cover again. Back then, the seal didn't come as a separate replacement part - you had to buy the entire ignition coil (the engine has two ignition coils, each shared between two cylinders) . I think for newer models, they redesigned the leads, so that the seal can be separated from the lead/coil for replacement. Anyway, good job! From the air filter and throttle body photos, it certainly looks like it needed a clean up.
  14. Suzuki swift HT51s 2004 catalytic convertor

    1. The ticking noise is the exhaust cooling down. This is normal. 2. No. The exhaust is not a component that requires maintenance or cleaning. With proper maintenance of the car, there should be no blocks in the exhaust system. Also, it's unlikely that the Oxygen sensor failed due to an exhaust block. Sensors failing just happen due to various reasons including age, excessive temperature, carbon deposits etc.
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