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Davy last won the day on September 9

Davy had the most liked content!

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About Davy

  • Rank
    Pro Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Melbourne (current) and Colombo (home)

My Vehicle Details

  • Vehicle Make
  • Vehicle Model
    2011 Lancer RalliArt
  • Engine Type
    2.0L MIVEC Turbo (4B11T)
  • Cosmetic Mods
    Evo X BBS wheels
  • Future Plans
    BC Racing coilovers, Blow off valve, OEM Projector headlamps

Recent Profile Visitors

8,112 profile views
  1. Already discussed. Check the thread below: tldr; http://www.cosl.lk/pdf/Vision_standards_Driving_license_Sri_Lanka.pdf
  2. 1. MX and MX Extra are trim levels. The MX trims came in the JDM version of the CK Lancer. The brand new ones came as GL and GLX. The general specification between the two variants should be identical with one of them (I guess the MX Extra), having more cabin options. 2. CK refers to the series. The number after that refers to the engine on the car. CK1 - 1.3L (4G13 engine) CK2 - 1.5L (4G15) CK3 - 1.6L (4G18) Search the forum for more info abut CK1, CK2 and CK3. These cars have been discussed in great detail.
  3. Suzuki Swift

    If it's a brand new car, you should have received a user manual with the car which contains information about the viscosity you may use. Read the manual.
  4. The proper way to do this is by connecting a diagnostic scanner and switching off the parking brake through the scanner. The electronic parking brake is connected to the OBD system. Google "EPB service tool" and you might be able to find a Honda compatible cheap tool from eBay or somewhere. Or use a compatible diagnostic scanner. Not sure about the Vezel, but older Euros with electronic parking brake and brake hold systems have a motor that drives a plunger through a gearing system attached to the back of the calliper. The plunger pushes the piston(s) together. If you want to do it manually, I reckon you'd have to either remove the connector to the mechanism and manually operate the motor via external power. You'll need to know about the circuit to do this. It might also be easy to separate the mechanism from the calliper altogether and manually push the piston back. I'd advise doing it the proper way to avoid messing up the system.
  5. O2 sensor alarm

    How many wires does the connector have and what's the car we're talking about here? Unlike hall effect sensors, the Oxygen sensor actually produces a small voltage between 100mV to 900mV or so. If one of the wires in your connector is a +12V line (some sensors are heated ones where a separate line heats up the sensor for cold starts), then yes, you have a risk of frying your ECU. Did you note a sudden drop in fuel efficiency recently? Does your car idle normally?
  6. Formula 1 - 2017

    Was about to post the video yesterday but got distracted and forgot. What a start that was. My opinion also is that it was Vettel who went across the track abruptly, pushing Verstappen into into Kimi's car, causing the Ferrari's rear wheel to be clipped off by the RedBull. Didn't expect this from an experienced driver like Vettel. Oh well, now this is clearly going to cost him the championship as Hamilton is now in the lead. According to the board "no one is at fault". Here's the race highlights video:
  7. Driving license

    You can always call 1919 and find out information. Check the link below. Half the links on the page are broken, so I'm not too sure about the accuracy of the information on the page. http://www.gic.gov.lk/gic/index.php?option=com_info&id=397&task=info&lang=en I also had to get the new license in 2008 because the original one faded away. So mine expires in 2018 as well. I hope there is a one day service or something.
  8. Driving license

  9. Battery light

    As TT mentioned, your charging system needs inspection. The symptoms you've described suggest a bad rectifier circuit (commonly referred to as the "regulator" or "diodes") in the alternator. The other possibility (and the less likely one) is a fault with the charging system wiring. You can check this yourself if you're keen by removing then connector and the ground wire from the alternator and switching the ignition to the ON position. The charging indicator should light up fully bright. At idle, the charging voltage should roughly be between 13.8V to 14.2V. Even with load (AC, headlights etc.), it shouldn't drop below this range.
  10. Need help, regarding an Issue

    Glad you got it sorted. On the way back home after the repair, did you go to the "ECU_break" guy's garage and tell him a thing or two?
  11. No. You should be able to remove just the gauge cluster. Tilt the steering down, look for screws, remove them and gently pry out the bezels and take the cluster out making sure you don't pull on the connectors. Disconnect them and locate the bulb on the reverse side of the cluster. Swap it with another working indicator bulb to check if it's actually the bulb that's faulty. If it is, replace.
  12. The easiest explanation is that the indicator bulb is burnt. Take the gauge cluster out and check the bulb.
  13. O2 sensor alarm

    The check engine light on the dashboard should be on and a diagnostic scan should reveal an error code. So yes, those are the "alarms". Does your check engine light turn on when your ignition is at the ON position and go off in a few seconds or after the engine is started? If not, your check engine indicator bulb may be burnt.
  14. Accelarator doesnt work

    What exactly do you mean by "pedal doesn't work"? Can you describe the behaviour? A faulty throttle position sensor doesn't really cause the accelerator pedal to "not work". There can be idle fluctuation, stalling engine etc, but the pedal should function. Testing the TPS is pretty straightforward. It's just a variable resistor and a multimeter can be used to test the resistance through the range of the sensor. It should be a smooth change in resistance without any dead spots or spikes. If you replaced the TPS with a reconditioned one, it's possible that the replace sensor is faulty as well. The other possibility is that your TPS voltage line is supplying more voltage (than normal) to the sensor and thereby causing it to heat up and eventually fail. If the car has a dual sensor design (one sensor near pedal and the other near throttle body), get them both tested.
  15. Side Skirts & A Spoiler For Lancer

    Found one on Facebook. Check you're inbox.