AL998

Whatever dumbass!! Still doesn't change the fact that 'someone' altered the votes

If others decide to delete their votes then at least my vote should stay and the total should have said 1 not 0. I deleted my vote after I saw the total is 0. Thats why I suggested that it has been altered. So go figure you dumbass!!!

When I first voted he had 3 votes and with my one it was 4 altogether .But when I checked after 2-3 hours it was 0 not even my vote is counted .So I deleted my vote and voted again.I don't know who has done it but somehow that's what happened. That's the truth. If you don't think he is not deserved to be there then why add him in the first place??? My vote is my choice and I don't see and reason to justify it to yourself

Just use any lighter refill can , You might be able to get info from guys who has small box shops in the pavements (lighter refill ,watch repair etc)

Some one is deleting Sylvi's votes .When I voted in the first time he had 4 now its 0. Who ever manipulates the votes "Shame On You!!!!"

Go for Ingersoll Rand mate ,thats the best out there .Its even better than Snap on stuff(when it comes to air tools) It will cost you a bit more but its worth it. There is a IR dealer in SL near kohuwala (120 road) Regarding compressors I have worked with various sizes of compressors, in my experience bigger the better. Problems with small compressors are 1.sometimes you will have to wait till it builds up pressure. 2.Not enough balls to rip off tough nuts/bolts like crank pulley bolts

According to this Mazda ZL is an interference engine Uploaded with ImageShack.us Best thing is to get it checked by someone.

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I'm not sure about this either.It is a fact that japs made best for JDM .Engines,Gearboxes are the same but quality of interior is clearly a notch ahead of the rest.I Don't know whether they have changed in the recent past..

If your car doesn't have a ABS light when stopped then its safe to say that all your sensors and connectors are fine .ABS control module measures the resistance of each sensor when the car stopped, if the values are within range then it assumes everything is fine . but if the signal sender (normally an ABS ring on the CV joints or a magnetic ring attached to the bearing)gives a faulty or abnormal signal when vehicle moves then ABS light will come up .this can be due to several reasons 1.Split ABS ring 2.Steering angle sensor gone out of calibration you can check the steering angle sensor reading with a diagnostic machine , then plug the machine and drive in a straight line. You should be getting equal speed values for all the wheels and steering angle sensor should be reading 0. This should give you a good starting point for your diagnosis . hope this helps

I'd start looking at the coolant temp sensor (One which sends the signal to the ECU ,not the one for the gauge ). If the sensor is faulty and reading high temperature all the time then your symptoms can occur . Normally there are two sensors in most of the cars but not sure about your one . if not then check other sensors and condition of the plug leads . ECU setting wont change unless you mess with it , I wouldn't worry about that

If your car has permanent ABS light (not lighting up when brakes) I would start checking the sensors first . Plug it in a diagnostic machine and look for codes. If you haven't got access to a diagnostic machine then you can try checking the resistance of the two terminals in all 4 sensors ,they should all be equal .But that will only tell you about the ABS sensors

Look for a split ABS ring in your both front CV joints ,if not then proceed to rear wheels .

Thanks mate the only costly bit is the Wide band O2 Setup which will be about Rs 30000/= , here is a list of approximate costs Wideband O2 sensor +controler Rs 30000/= EPROM programmer 6000/= chipping kit Rs 1500-2000 (less if you buy individually) Nokia cable Rs 150 ??? and an ECU + conversion harness if the car is an OBD2 of course since this is vtec-e with the 12 valve thing going on ,I don't think I will be able get lot of extra power unless I go crazy with it.In fact I think it would be ideal to go the other way with this setup, ie going crazy with economy

It is an original Honda engine inside. Uploaded with ImageShack.us As MasterDon said it was Rover who used Honda engines+other parts because of some deal they had .It is very common to find Honda engines instead of nasty K-series in Rover cars. This D16B2 only available in UK civic Estates AFAIK(maybe in rovers as well). Looks exactly the same as any other 1.6 non-vtec SOHC engine. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Chipped Uploaded with ImageShack.us Data logging added on CN2 slot Pin 1 Ground (Black) Pin 2 Rx (Blue) Pin 4 Tx (White) Uploaded with ImageShack.us Chipping is done,Now writing the chip I will be using a TOP853 EPROM burner , pretty cheap product but it does the job.Since my car has a 1.5 vtec-e engine I will be using a P07 stock program(bin) (OBD1 ECU which was originally came with some vtec-e engines) Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us just to make sure ,I checked the new chipped ECU with the car and it works fine ,but with the engine management light, Didn't have time to check the code but my gut feeling says probably due to some O2 sensor incompatibility. I will update the thread with editing the bin using chrome, live tuning and data logging using a wide band O2 sensor later on.

I got stuck for a bit but its all good now. Basically my civic was not using fully sequential injection , it was using either batch firing or semi sequential. Injector 1 and 4 was wired up together as well as 2 and 3 . So two injectors get fired up at the same time. In other words in a one engine cycle an injector fires twice. The first injected fuel is saved in the inlet side until the next one. I don't know why this car is different than a normal civic, may be due to its being an estate (due to extra weight) So to use a P28,P06 like OBD1 chippable ECU I had to 1.Rewire the injectors 2.Use a Honda distributor and rewire the distributor wiring from ECU (this car was using a lucas distributor which is not compatible with P28 ,P06 like ECU's) Since it's my daily runner I didn't want to get stranded by experimenting on it, So I got a 1.5 vtec manual for cheap as my project car. I will be using the same ECU which I was hoping to use with my 1.6 auto ( by converting it to manual),since the stock chip will be running 1.6 program there is no point using a toggle switch to switch between stock chip and new chip (later I will use this feature by writing two programs in one chip) Ok that's the story so far ,Now for some pics on chipping 28pin DIP Socket 2 0.1uf Ceramic Disk Capacitors 2 1k resistors 74HC373 Chip (20 pin) SST27SF512 Chip (28 pin ,this is the chip which will be used for re programming) additionally I will be replacing the 220uf capacitor as a precaution (because of age) Uploaded with ImageShack.us Right is the after market dummy Immobilizer chip which will replace the original one on the left ,This will allow me to run with Immobilizer disabled but without any MIL light . Uploaded with ImageShack.us For data logging I will be going the cheap route ,this a an old nokia usb cable (DKU-5), Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

No ,your alternator will take care of it .

It is not simple as everyone suggests , If you wish to switch it off manually every time you switch off the engine , then get a (+) from the bridged terminals as sylvi said ( + terminal of the battery which feeds the - to the body) . then you can get a negative from any part of the body. If you use the other battery (+) terminal then you will have to get the - from that battery as well . So you have to be careful which battery to use Or use a converter with 24V If you want stereo to switch off when the ignition switches off then you will have to get 3 separate wirings VCC : From ignition switch (+) : (+) terminal of the battery which does not feed (-) to the body . (-) : From one of the bridged terminals You will have to use 2 converters if you want stereo to switch off when the ignition switches off But before connecting any thing check the voltages with a multimeter to make sure ,otherwise you might fry your stereo .

Did you experience better pulling power from this car before? or are you comparing it with other if you have bought it recently? Anyway these are few reasons you could experience loss of power 1.Could be a blocked catalytic converter 2.Faulty Torque Converter 3. Faulty TPS can lead to wrong gear selections since it is automatic. 4.Do you feel funny gear changes or gear slipping while you drive/Accelerate? Then it can be worn friction plates / worn seals / worn pistons (inside tranny ) etc . That means it needs a gearbox overhaul . Since You said you have done a engine clean up, I'm not going to mention plugs /air filter etc That's few reasons I can think of ,Others can chip in if there is any

as Elvis_Pil suggests cleaning the Tb and other sensors is the first thing to do . But is you want to do a DIY check on TPS follow this Uploaded with ImageShack.us This is from a EDM civic but should be the same in JDM as well And also You can check the resistance between terminal 1 & 2 by taking off the plug(engine switched off) .Resistance should vary according to the throttle angle if the TPS faulty then you an change TPS without the whole TB ,it is attached to TB by rivet type screws .You can remove them using a small punch or a sharp screw driver with a light hammer .They are screws not rivets ,probably that's why agents say it cannot be installed separately.

read this ,it will give you a good explanation brakes Master Cylinder The master cylinder is located in the engine compartment on the firewall, directly in front of the driver's seat. A typical master cylinder is actually two completely separate master cylinders in one housing, each handling two wheels. This way if one side fails, you will still be able to stop the car. The brake warning light on the dash will light if either side fails, alerting you to the problem. Master cylinders have become very reliable and rarely malfunction; however, the most common problem that they experience is an internal leak. This will cause the brake pedal to slowly sink to the floor when your foot applies steady pressure. Letting go of the pedal and immediately stepping on it again brings the pedal back to normal height.

When the internal washers or O-rings worn out ,you can get the above symptoms .Since it is leaking internally from one chamber to a another chamber you will not see any external leak . if the seals are worn slightly then you will not notice it when you brake hard ,but will get the sinking feeling when you brake softly

Only the leaking cylinder has to be replaced ,but make sure the bore of the cylinder has not been damaged otherwise there is no point in changing just the washers Yes ,when you open the brake lines you have to bleed out any air inside. If it is the sinking felling you feel when you are braking very gently ,but perfectly OK when you do hard braking It looks like master pump washers have worn out ,but this can happen if your wheel cylinders are leaking excessively.Since you have mentioned it only a minor leak ,I would suspect the master pump . You can replace master pump washers but I think these days you can find good second hand parts for cheep. That's couple of reasons I can think of ,Others may be able add if there is more

Happy B'day mate