nsiva

One safety note: Don't use this spray too much on a cold engine's throttle body. If large amount of liquid goes into cylinders and doesn't get vaporised - it can create a dangerous condition called hydro-lock! Hydro word came from water but it applies to all liquids BTW.

I am not an expert on this, but I recently bought a bottle of throttle plate & carb cleaner (3M) from w*w.lk. It is just under Rs. 1000/- per bottle & it should be ok. I can't recommend any other usual solvents such as petrol as some plastics, sensors, and minute springs are involved there.

Yes chan you correct that W means Winter grade, and the 2nd number means operating temperature. But as I said 15W doesn't actually mean any particular viscosity at 0'C. But it is a grading defined by SAE J300 standard for Winter temperatures such as 0W, 5W, 10W etc. Operating temperature corresponds to 100'C always. Please keep in mind that all manufacturers quote their engine oil viscosities for 40'C and 100'C only. Evidence, http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LCW/carengineoils_products_mobil-super-2000-formula-p-10w40.aspx# (See technical specs tab in the link). If you see a data sheet, actually the viscosity cSt at 40'C is already about 100cSt. Do it will further increase at 0'C. (Viscosity increases with reducing temperature). In fact, the standard J300 defines another cold cranking property to arrive at this Winter grade. There is no mention about 0'C.

That means the DS40 oil is 'mono'grade, unlike the Mobil 15W-40 is a 'multi'grade lubrication oil. Actually SAE40 doesn't mean it is constant when cold or hot! It means 40 viscosity when hot only. (Usually for a multigrade the viscosities are mentioned for 40'C (cold) and 100'C (hot).

right side of your label refers to the tyre pressure = 2.1kg/cm2 = 30psi. If this is less also, (you dont have enough tyre pressure), your ground clearance can reduce. Bottom refers to your spare wheel deatils. that also actually confusing. My honda car has only one clear size for everything. LOL.

Rider, I think I was wrong. I now presume the 2nd tyre is an option. Since the second size is given by manufacturer it can not go wrong (such as scraping wheel well etc.) Only thing i though was these two tyres have different dimaters. The odometer may slighly deviate. then only I found out this: 175*70%=122.5mm (nominal) 185*70%=129.5mm What I thought is manufacturer should have selected a 185*65R14 tyre=> Then, 185*65%=120.25mm (lower than the 1st size) That is why he has given a slighly higher tyre diameter (185*70R14) I think, you should have no problem in changing to the 2nd tyre size, as it is manufacturer recommended and already he has made calculations!

I am not sure about Toyota 121. But these two sizes mean for front & rear tyres separately? Because, these two tyre sizes have s height difference of 0.7cm from the centre axis. Usually, manufacturers give a tyre combination with different wheel + tyre combination which result in equal whole tyre diameter. Not differing diameters. 185x70 = 185mm x 70% = tyre height (balloon size)

I also own one of the latest chassis of this hornet. It doesn't have a fuel pump. But has 4 carburettors. There is no ECU, but a CDI (ignition) unit with lot of pin outs. I have found that when I pull the choke even slightly the bike doesn't start. Possible reason I can think for your hit start issues are, 1. Bad spark plugs, bad plug cars (rubber), bad coils. Actually if the ignition (high voltage wires) are old they might have more resistance. It can increase with higher resistance resulting in weak spark. 2. Bad starter solenoid or poor connections between battery. 3. Turn on your headlight & if possible measure the battery voltage with a multimeter. If it is below 12V surely it is the battery. Remove the battery connections , clean & re tighten. 4. In newer models, the fuel tap is opened by vacuum line. Due to hot condition, if the vacuum leaks - you fuel flow may not be enough. I don't know whether your fuel tap is manual. 5. You may have a leak in (broken rubber parts) between carburettor and engine. This can cause air going from outside Don't test the spark plug by removing the he wire leads without properly attaching an earth or test plug. I busted my ignition coil unnecessarily in my civic car...! Start from simple like battery!

What about York air conditioners? This we had in office & metrop*litan deals with it I suppose. It is available in 12000Btu/hr If I remember.

I have read the Japanese owners manual for Honda Vezel hybrid (but I don't own one LOL). It recommends Honda Ultra 0W-20 Oil for any ambient temperature. It is because a fully synthetic oil. I think Mo*il 1 0W-20 fully synthetic is available in SL, and must be good.

thanks iRage & C1nder. So i would say there is a considerable lack of spares. Ya finding a not-abused one is also hard. Therefore, for the time being i will think twice.

Thanks Don for your response.

Hi guys, One of my friends is looking to buy a Toyota Carina GT YOM - 1999/2000. His priority is finding a reliable car within a budget of 2 mill Rs. He has inspected few cars too. But someone has advised him not to buy GT version (a high spec version which I recommended him actually). The reason told was the reconditioned/spare parts availability. So, is it really difficult to find parts for that particular model? For eg. Distributor parts/ timing belt/ oil filters/ gaskets etc. if someone has or had this car, it would be much better. Thanks in advance for your valuable advice..

Hi guys, I wanted to share one of my troubleshooting experience in my 2000 Honda civic Vi-RS CVT (multimatic gear) hunting speed in Drive mode. It happened when the engine is running, and when A/C is ON, and the brake pedal is pressed (Typical traffic light situation), the rpm will continuously go up and down (400rpm to 800rpm). If A/C switch is turned off this didn't happen. When normal running (brake not pressed) also this didn't happen. I went to the agents and did a full tuneup, changed CVT gear oil, changed spark plugs - there was no improvement. Finally did an A/C servicing from an A/C technician. During that, condenser was water cleaned, new refrigerant oil was put, evaporator was serviced. After that, all the earlier symptoms have suddenly vanished. So what I wanted to finally tell was, there is a low/high pressure switch in A/C line which cuts off/on the A/C compressor due to May be 1. Lesser refrigerant 2. Or dirty condenser fins. Technician told and I also observed the present A/C condenser was blocked with dirt which he couldn't completely remove, advised to change to a new one. Still it is a solved mystery for most of the Honda multimatic rpm hunting issue which most people think (I also was afraid) as a CVT gear box issue. I think similar posts were there in A/L but wanted to give my first hand experience. Thanks.

thanks supra_natural for the response. Then it would have been imported from Singapore? then it's steering is EPS?

Hi friends, I have come across an ad for brandnew 2004 ES8. It is a vtec with leather interior as stated in the ad. As I searched the forum, only es5 came with leather. My question is, does it have a cvt? I think it must have hydraulic power steering, as it is brandnew.so leather interior is fitted as a option? Is it worth 2.49mill? Pls advise me.( I haven't inspected the car)

I know it's not popular as its competitors like toyota, nissan. Do they worth 600k?

hi all, i saw an advert for a daihatsu charade G101. it is 64- turbo diesel version. what would be reasonable price to pay (after this so called tax reduction)? What should i look for when i inspect the car? pls reply your suggestions...

thanks a lot guys for your immediate response. So according to your views i'll forget the audis and peugeots for the time being.

hi Guys, I'm 1yr old to AL but new to the posting. I am looking for a used car about 1-1.5 million. As i haven't had a car in the past I am bit inexperienced. I dont like indian cars (tata/maruti suzuki), discouraged by the prices of popular brands(toyota/nissan/suzuki). I have in mind about Honda civic EK3/peugeot307/audiA4s. People may think why Audi -the brand new in the range of 16millions. So what you guys say about this: http://www.autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=32543 It is a 1996 Audi A4 but why it is so cheap because the new ones are similar in price to monteros/prados (about 16 millions). Is that becuase of spare part cost/ fuel consumption. Any users please help... I mean Why peolple dont like peugeots/audi(european cars)