NRX

I don't know the rationale behind, but the brand new imported N16 seems to lack the Oxygen sensor and comes with that CO pot which could be used to adjust CO volume, the reconditioned ones come with the proper ECU controlled induction system. One thing though, did you replace the MAF with a brand new one? I've had nightmares with used MAFs from reconditioned parts joints and my emissions issues was only resolved with a brand new one. The 18 year old original MAF the car came with had issues with responding to air volume changes, it would take about 10 - 20 seconds to drop the voltage to correct values when you let go off the accelerator. This lazyness was even worse with reconditioned MAFs

Hi All, Got the emissions test failed with high CO emissions at 2500RPM. Took the car to Mr Dhammika at Cotta road and analyzed the emissions. High CO situation happens after letting off gas from high RPM (2500 - 750). Not at sitting idle or at high rpms, only when coming to idle from high RPMs. His suggestion was to replace the MAF, which I was not so sure of. Anyways I failed again with another used MAF (returned and got my cash back). Then I bit the bullet and purchased a scanning software for my car and analyzed the readings myself. The O2 sensor reads high voltage when coming from 2500RPM to 750RPM. The thing is, even though the RPM drops to 2500RPM in a second, the O2 sensor voltage remains high (rich) for like 20 seconds. The short term fuel trim values shows the ECU is trying to lean the mixture by reducing fuel. This almost goes to -20 range and then only the O2 readings goes to lean and start switching between lean and rich. Please have a look at the below graphs and help me to identify the issue.. Engine Nissan QG16DE EFI.

Classic sign of worn out brushes of the starter

The agent imported brand new B13 came with GA14DS as well.

I guess you are talking about the FB15. The antenna is etched to the rear windscreen, much like the heater lines. Next time when you go past an FB15, look closer :D

Even when the antenna is not working, ie: doesn't go up with power, if the booster part is working it should pick one or two stations at least depending on the reception of the area you are in. I once had my power antenna motor blown, but the channels were working with some static.

I'm sensing something in the sensor department. Could be the coil packs too. You don't get a check engine light when this happens?

Here is a budget option. I'm using it with my sedan and pretty happy with the viewing angles. 600L CCD HD 180 degree Fisheye Lens car camera Rear / Front view wide angle reversing backup camera night vision parking assist http://s.aliexpress.com/UzqqaINf?fromSns=Copy to clipboard

Wasn't particularly mentioning the ground clearance though, had the diameter in mind

Times 2 ?

I think it's not a big deal. Someone might find it useful.

The overall condition may be ?

Thank You PL. I will soon go through the same process ? Did you have to take an Appointment ?

Are they using Japanese parts ? What are the parts being replaced ? That's if they have told you that ?

Where is this ? Did you get a quotation for the repair ?

It's the GA15DE Davy. PreseaLover !! You should have seen this ?

Wait!!. What you are saying is you have 2 different bulb types on left and right sides? That's impossible unless you have a pretty fu*ked up light setup. If you have H4 , it has both low and high beams inside. If you have H1 , it's for the high beam and there must be another H7 for the low beam. Which means it's a quad light setup. ( H1+H7 and H1+H7) Can we see a photo of your head lights ?

Clean AF. Congrats buddy.. Superb buy..

Is it like a rattling sound which is coming from the left side of the car ? Did they check the condition of the rack ends and lower control arm bushings ? Those are the ones usually go bad easily and make the rattling noises. The left side ones are prone to premature wear because left side is subjected more to bad road surfaces, pot holes and whatnot.

Probably you gear lever switch ( using that name for a lack of a better term) may be worn out. So only when you jiggle it the car will recognize that your gear position is in Neutral (N) or Park (P). By any chance did you have the gear lever at R or D when you faced this issue ?

Matroska is right. About the fuel light thing; do you own the vehicle or looking to buy one ? if it's the latter you are nuts Btw! I have kinda the same vehicle, the amber color fuel warning light comes when there is like 1/8 of the tank remaining. Should be about 6-7 litres remaining. Do the math to find out the answer to your question.

Touching man!

Yes. 10% or something.