TheFlyingFox

Congratulations Mate ! Looks to be in pristine condition

Macho your logic doesn't make sense. There is virtually no gearlag even if the car downshifts for you in a DCT. Even the Civic has paddle shifters albeit artificial shift points in that CVT to do the same thing (pre select lower gear before overtaking) . Also don't forget that unlike those days, turbo lag is minimal in today's cars. Good for you if you like drag races at the lights ?. The Grace will be faster by quite a decent margin ( ~2 seconds faster to reach 100)

You have already ordered the car. Don't have second thoughts , enjoy and love it. For the record , the Grace will be faster in a drag race, which I doubt very much you will do. When you push the Civic into a corner it is on another league , specially with the model which has adaptive suspension.

Mate, I don't know why you even ordered a Grace knowing all this Good Luck! ?

@Sipa May i suggest that you take a look at some cars within that budget on the Sunday paper/Websites and shortlist a few. Go and see a few and look at the appearance, sit behind the steering wheel and pick a car that "You" actually like. The posters above has stated their preference and you might have another idea. Sedans under 2 Mil, Toyota 110/Tercel/Corsa/Soluna/Corona/Carina Nissan FB15/N16/Cefiro/PreseaLover Subaru Impreza Mazda Familia The list goes on, If you shortlist a few then members here can give you advice If you have any sort of experience with European cars in this era (Under 2Mil) or know anyone who uses them , then only consider!

Yes i see your point. The things is im running Osram Fog breakers in the fogs. Their output is quite good for the price. This light bar too produces a similar light pattern as the fogs. They are not focused as a projector or reflector main beam. The light beam is short but lights up a wider range in that "short" area. I think in bad weather they should perform well, yes the color temp (of the light bar, 6000k) is not suitable for that kind of weather but the mix of lights , have to test and see But really not bad for a cheap unit like this

They are both good, Some will like the Pioneer some will like the Kenwood. Kenwoods seems to have a more attractive interface while the Pioneers have a more "refined" interface. Top end Kenwoods you get here have capactive panels where as the Pioneers still have resistive panels (Pressure based) at least in SL. SQ wise i personally tend to prefer Pioneer (To my ears). You cant go wrong with either ! They are both good

Update So i ended up wiring it to the Fogs. Very simple operation. Aimed the light bar a bit towards the ground. So far im happy with the results. This setup should be good in bad weather. Only the Dipped beams Dipped beam plus Fogs and the light bar

Thanks Machan yes your right although this says IP67 water resistance I have my doubts on it for the way it’s made (build quality is just not there). Since i got it for about 4.5k I will go ahead and fix it. If it goes for a 6 I can replace it with a good one since the wiring is already done.

Yes but since I am only going to use it on manual basis, I don’t think there will be a big issue. I would never use it in Colombo , only outstation when vehicles are less, that too not when there is oncoming traffic. I know the pain of oncoming drivers having 100w bulbs, having leds in reflector housings and how they effect me ?, so wouldn’t do it to anyone else.

No RPM meters wont work on most of the conversions. Not a deal breaker for the majority, they want the benefits of a Diesel. @tilvin's story is because of a incompatible conversion (Toyota engine in a Peugeot) just like the Volvo S80 example i gave. Very true! What i have been trying to tell you and yes with the proper technicians. Of course there is nothing to beat a car which came originally with a diesel engine, but a "proper" conversion can come close, specially with the discount from the market price.

Hi @tiv, Thanks a lot! Does this diagram means that the light bar will work with the high beams (when they are on) and as and when i want to switch it on manually i can do that as well ?

Mate, i have stated in my example of the merc that there were no cutting and budding , things were more of less straight forward. The engine mount places for the diesel engine matched with the petrol, little modification of the other parts such as AC and the wire harness. I know of a couple of VW Golfs, W210 mercs and Audi A4s of the 2000s which are converted with the "Original (Same model)" parts. They run flawlessly, again most of the parts matched for the diesel engine to fit. So does it mean the logic is invalid ? I also know of a Volvo S80 which was converted with a Toyota 2C (cut and bud) engine and that was always having some problem. Not with the actual engine itself but vibrations, electrical issues , starting problems because of the electrical issues etc. I don't think a manufacturer has enough time or to put funds for R&D to create completely new platforms for diesel and petrol for the same model. It doesn't make any sense. They wont be "exactly" the same but conversion is possible with minor modification. In OPs case, If the diesel engine was from a Suzuki Vitara at that time, also done correctly without compromise, I don't think there will be any major problems mechanically.

As far as i know it is a device fitted to most of the Japanese cars for electronic toll collection in Japan. You have to insert a card and when the car goes under a toll automatically it cuts some $$ off the card. This device has nothing to do with SL so there is nothing to worry.

Hi Guys, Seek your advise for a couple of things to fit a LED light bar for the car. I got one off ebay for cheap. Also i have highlighted in red where i plan to install it. What i want to know , 1.Is there a way to wire it to the high beams as well as for a manual mode. 2.Is there a way to get a switch that will fit in the the following pic ?

I think what ETC xxxxxxxx means is that in Japan or any developed counties you have to pay for traveling on those roads, maybe @iRage can confirm this. Even in Srilanka, in the highway exit there is a ETC exit for prepaid electronic toll cards . Lots of Japanese cars have this. Nothing to worry about.

Macho I’m sorry to say that this is the least reliable way of gathering fuel consumption. My non hybrid swift tells me sometimes I get around 24kmpl in your way. Any car , if you reset the trip computer or look at the live fuel consumption on the highway will report this. This is far from the actual truth. Even this meathod run about 20 mins and see how the results change. Do this , pump full tank , run around 100kms. Then again pump full tank and see how many liters you have pumped. Then you will see a very realistic figure. The meathods you are using to measure consumption is wrong.

Not really, I have personally witnessed a conversion done to a w126 merc. This was a 1989 300SEL. Came with a 3L in-line 6 Petrol engine. He got down a used 3L Diesel engine from another w126. Most of the mounts were the same (places of the mounts, not the actual mount), things he replaced , engine, gearbox , gearbox bar , radiator , propeller shaft, and some other small bits and pieces. Air condition hoses needed minor modification, He ran with the same meter board so the RPM didn’t work. There weren’t any single vibration and he still runs that car , around 7 years since he did the conversion. “Saving” quite a lot on fuel, it is not only economy , more range in one tank, less stops at fuel stations etc . After two years of the conversion he got down a set of springs from another diesel W126 as the front of the car was pitching down with the original springs, to the extra weight of the Diesel engine. Manafactures create a car platform to accomadate various engines and other components. A conversion done properly with the “right” parts can give one the benefits they want sacrificing market value, time and energy to do it. Improper convert as you said can be a nightmare.

A diesel convert is not actually a bad idea provided it was done with the correct parts. For example if it’s a Suzuki , a Diesel engine from the same brand , same model must be used. Then most of the engine mounts will be the same. Front suspension might have to change a little bit to accommodate the weight of the Diesel engine (springs commonly have to be changed), the meter board for the warning lights , rpm etc. also the proper documentation at RMV. Then I don’t think there will any major issues other than market value. If you bud mounts and electronics to use a Diesel engine of another brand it can cause a lot of issues. For example a Volvo with a Toyota 2C engine.

Hey Guys, I have a set of JBL GT7-6CH Component car speakers which i don't need anymore (Not used basically). I couldn't find a proper place to fix the tweeters hence giving them FOC for someone who will make use of them. Please PM me, you can collect it from my residence. Comes with the Woofers, Tweeters and the crossovers. Given to @Magnum

Why do people always have to be sarcastic for an innocent question I don’t know. OP, here you go, this might give you some idea although it’s not about the specific JDM model (Stingray) you inquired. . Also if you do a little bit of research inside the forum, you can gain more insights.

If it’s a 2L petrol you will get something like 6-7 at most. The cars are quite heavy. Don’t have any idea on the diesels though. Someone I know has a W126 3L 6 cylinder diesel and it does around 7 in Colombo. Are you sure the EFI ones are after 95? The 92 190E I had was also EFI (Ancient mechanical EFI as I recall) About where it is made it’s up to you. Ask around the forum as well.

Who asked not to buy a 307 and to buy a 206? Since he is a first time “euro” car buyer the logical thing to do is to get something that won’t hurt his pocket or his time. I only “recomended” for him to look at a “well looked after” 206 If you had owned a 307 it is as rediculous to recommend it to someone even if it had been properly maintained. The 307 worldwide is a very unreliable car, recalled for many things. Two many new first time components were put into it. The 206 is a more simpler car which relies on more mechanical components opposed to more electronic components on the 307. EDIT: http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/peugeot/307/2002/single-page/ http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/peugeot/206/2001/single-page/ for whoever who wants to get an idea.

If you are on the hunt, avoid the ones that came from the UK as well. As most of them didn't have factory fitted air condition. Their radiators are also created for their climate. I once had a similar 190E which was brought down from the UK. they have fitted a air condition set locally which as not bad but there were some annoying issues, it used to stall sometimes in traffic as the idle rpm was not designed to handle a compressor load, raising the idle rpm helped a bit but the problem didn't go away completely. Also you need to fit at least two aux fans in front for this climate. Try to fine one from which the agents imported. These cars, the legendary ride quality, even if you go on a very long trip and get down you will feel "Fresh". Get one in decent shape as these cars mechanically are very reliable, they start every morning , don't burn oil electrical systems are very simple so they work, . Finding one with proper service history is a bit hard though.

Don’t know if the 124s came from India but later models 210s and the 203s in particular , the Indian ones had Lucas parts while the German ones had Bosch parts.