Komisiripala

santa came! ho ho ho, motherhuggers!! MSD blaster coil ignition system ACL performance bearings: main rod, connecting rod and thrust BLOX anodized lug nuts. adjustable cam gears: saved the best for last: brian crower valve springs, retainers brian crower stage 2 street performance camshafts! sadly, these will sit idle for some time til i get the gearbox sorted out. once that's smooth, will start on the engine rebuild and engine bay respray

Reverting back to my old lights. Getting it fixed, cleaned and fibered. There's nothing like understatement on the outside! well here they are after a cleanup. the fronts are still messed up. too much age and grime to cut away. at least you can see what's inside the housing. earlier they were just opaque little orbs of mystery. thinking of replacing them with a set of chrome eagle eyes from the US. the right size this time. the rears, however, came out smashingly well. wow. looks like i just unpacked them! here's a before shot: and here's the afters: also considered giving the front end to ajitha to get it completely redone. might be a better and cheaper option than getting a front end down... Ok so Darwin racing effed up their shipment. My alloys haven't come through. Ascent holdings deserves a Darwin Award for that one! Have to wait another month for the next shipment. If I get another "sorry sir" calls then that's absolutely it before i proceed, here's a pre paint shot of the tan dashboard. it'll be done on boxing day. can't wait! forgot to mention, i shipped in all 4 AC vents as well. they were broken, and bothering me, somehow.

working on a blog post from the old posts on this, gentlemen. here's the link. enjoy

Looks like doomsday is Christmas for me. Arriving on Friday are: 1. The alloys 2. The cams 3. The valve springs and retainers 4. The MSD blaster kit 5. The ACL bearing kit 6. The Blox red Allan key lug nuts. Will post photos once I've stopped having an orgasm over it darwin racing 15" alloys. being cleared from port today. getting these either powder coated in white, or lquid gloss white finish. and white hub caps with the red H logo. jeevithe mal aiyya inna kal (for all the little decals and whatnots i print at anim8) Removed the dashboard for paint today. I also got new AC vents since the existing ones were broken. There was a metric ton of rust behind the dash. Bloody hell. So that's official now I am never seeing this car again! Will post before and after pics soon. Haiyyo.

HANDLING/SUSPENSION you guys have already seen my adjustable camber upper arms from the previous thread. here they are again anyways: front: rear: what i'm adding now are the upper and lower control bars. front and rear. got a sweet deal from ultra racing for the entire kit. quite impressed with them, i must say. the front and rear tower struts: the front tower is a 3 pointer. i might not have room to mount it with the new intake manifold. if so, might have to do without it. its a fit for any EG8, so look me up if anyones' interested. front and rear lower member braces: the nxt thing, of course, are the coilovers. i need to lower the car. at least 1.5" front and 1" rear. i'm aiming for an Eibach multipro S2 setup oil shock coilovers with adjustable dampening and spring rates. this car is a daily driver and i can't give my self spondylosis at an early age! for the moment, i'm installing some cheap ebay tin cans. they cost me next to nothing, but surprisingly amazon has some good reviews about them. ah well, only for 3 months... INTERIOR UPDATE the door panels are finally done. and looking more than just patta. i'm stunned. really! fronts. and the rear: and what impressed me most was the center console armrest. deen's threw this in for free. wow. just wow. tears in eyes, lump in throat: here it is bolted on. waiting for indika to fix the interior to see how this looks. used your car as a background, prvnrox. hope you don't mind

some photos: here's the box: removed the auto. the flywheel screws had to be replaced. the MT ones are longer. its funny how every little thing int he tranny from this to the mounts have been reinforced to handle more torque. quite frightening in a very very nice and here it is, bolted into place. had to source the pedal(s) locally. couldn't find the A and B, so got the C off an EK2. it was a perfect fit. not a bolt out of place. its funny how this car was made for a manual but someone decided to stick an auto in there. every little part had its place, with the bolt holes deleted by rubber bushings. and there it is, the cheeky little bugger! have to unceremoniously cut the brake pedal, tho. so invested in some sparco carbon fiber pedals to cover up the evidence. got these directly from sparco italy. tough as nails, light as a feather. impressed! INTAKE EXHAUST UPDATE here's the intake manifold. a Skunk2 S2 pro 70mm. coupled with the s90 70mm throttle body got a simota cone to fit. need to fabricate a housing like the stock box, so i can use the existing cold air piping leading out from under the car. there's a Mugen DC2 4:1 header in there as well. its still in its wrapping. plus it has a thermal insulation which needs to be wrapped. will post pics of it once i'm done. for the moment going with stock fuel rail and injectors. planning to keep the latter, but ordered this: need to sort out the exhaust piping. plus get hold of that tanabe soon. getting it done as soon as the car is out. INTERIOR this is one of the costliest and painstaking parts of the build. making a 15 year old car look like it rolled off the plant yesterday is no easy task and the interior is where the age shows the most. firstly, here's the stock interior: this is not off my car, but its the same tan interior. here;s my goal: so, the tan had to go. did a lot of research with my paint guy and sourced an epoxy interior paint with a heat and electrolyte (sweat) resistant primer from italy. redid in satin black. getting the felt bits done in fabric. threw in all the other little type R parts as well. including... the momo type R DC2 steering. with an airbag of course. cost me packet for one in good shape, and after a buffing with shoe polish, it looks killer! got hold of a type R DC2 gauge cluster as well. and of course, the type R clock with the amber digits! details details... and then there's the gear boot/knob. black rexin with the red herringbone stitch, OEM honda. i might keep the seatbelts tan. its good to have a little reminder of what the car was. but the seats will definitely be replaced. the rear will be upholstered in black, while a pair of black recaros will replace the fronts. again, in time. recaros are harima ganang!!

1. ENGINE -B18C3 DOHC VTEC SIR-2 The b18c3 black-top is found in the 1996 JDM integra type R. and the JDM spec SiR-G sedan. Lots of rumours regarding the 3 in the C3. Some say its just an area code. As in made in Taiwan/Hong Kong. Others say it’s the closest Honda ever got to B18 nirvana. The head is from a B16 type R, and the individually numbered C3’s are rumored to have been ported and polished by Spoon Sports Japan. Factory specs are as follows, compared to the other two well known B18’s Urban legends notwithstanding, this is one rare and much sought after motor in the west, and I suspect the spooning rumor has a big part to play in that! To me however, this means I don’t have to port and polish. - brian crower stage 2 street performance camshafts The stock camshafts are low lift, for more low end torque, and Honda R&D took great pains to make the shift to vtec as “seamless” as they would like. (why, oh god why??) basically designed for an automatic. Crower stage 2 is high lift, and vtec engagement is much more pronounced, which, after all is what we want, yo! After much research decided on these over blox HSL’s and stage 1’s. Skunk2 was beyond budget. to reach that elusive 10,000 rpm redline, its also necessary to upgrade the springs and retainers, piston sleeves and bearings. Brian Crower Performance valve springs and retainers its also necessary to upgrade the valvetrain if i’m to avoid the dangers of high RPM. inadequate valve springs and retainers can lead to broken springs, causing the valve to fall into the chamber, and that, would literally leave me in tears. Crower springs are stiffer to meet increased demand, and essentially protect the valvetrain. i opted for steel retainers over titanium as they are more durable and also, simply because i can’t bloody afford titanium! naturally, a set of adjustable cam gears are also included. BCSpring pressure: 1.350” @ 80lbs Open 0.900” @ 220lbs Coil bind: 0.765” Stock: 0.833” Weight: 46g Stock: 48g - ACL main and connecting rod bearings are also going in to ensure nothing pops at that redline. 2. GEARBOX the auto had to go. clearly. it broke down thrive in the last year, and gave me sufficient excuses to go get my self a third pedal. not just any third pedal, mind you. one from an EK9 type R. B16A2 EK9 type R box with helical LSD Hydraulic clutch. Gear ratios are as follows: Type R pressure plate, clutch plate - DC2 Type R flywheel - Type R trans-axles sourced the clutch pedal from an EK2. was a perfect fit. wasn't able to get hold of the other two for a complete conversion, so had to cut the brake. but a set of carbon fibre sparco pedal covers should cover that up neatly. had a few small issues with the shifter linkage being a tad bit too short. thankfully indika is an expert at figuring this sort of thing out. IGNITION replaced the plugs with ngk iridium numbers. Also threw in an MSD blaster coil and ngk wires. INTAKE/EXHAUST replaced the stock intake with a skunk2 pro manifold and an s90 70mm throttle body. Coupled to a short ram intake and a simota cone filter The stock 4:2:1 header was replaced with a mugen DC2 type r 4:1 header. With thermal wrapping and 2" piping leading to a tanabe medallion muffler. As nippy as it might be, I want this car to he quiet, despite the power gains.

eat. sleep. jdm. that about sums up my obsession over the last 3 months or so. what first started out as a casual remark by Charith Kulasiri, gradually became malignant. "you know, what if you did a type R conversion on this?" Ever since I got hold of the GSR teg, this idea has been clawing its way around my brain. Finally, I set about doing it, but to do what must be done to its finest detail is no easy task. My end goal, is to have a 4 door integra db8 type-R in concourse condition. i'll break it down systemwise as i proceed. my apologies for keeping this away from the AL forums for as long as i have, and i must say this is a conversation i wish to share and enjoy with like minded petrolheads. not the prii driving thel hinganno whose first queries are "wow how much did that cost?" or "now how much petrol does it do?" if you are the latter, read on in awe about how real tuners pump out over 200 HP from an engine the size of a mega bottle. or just go hug a panda. firstly, here's the base car: before i bought it. a GSR spec 1998 mint Honda Integra DB8. so i riced it up. forgive me. we all have our moments. at least, after a snide remark from schiffer, i saw this was not the way to go. here it is after i did the interior and exterior. now, the fun part. over the next few months or so i'll post what i've been up to with the: 1. engine 2. gearbox 3. ECU and tuning 4. intake/exhaust 5. cooling 6. suspension/handling 7. exterior detailing 8. interior detailing

Guess who’s back, bit#hes! Time to end this. Project R is very nearly finished. It’s been four years since I posted anything and so much has happened since then. Not gonna bore you with details but will try to 1. Update the old photo links 2. Summarise what has happened since then. 3. Cover future plans. Heres a teaser for now

happy birthday you old bag you!! and welcome back to sri lanka!!

trinity is never alone on autolanka.

shanthi plastics in mount lavinia have the exact same thing. its a square 10 x 10 foot affair tho, so your arse end sticks out a bit. covers 75% of the car however. its around 12,000. my first one lasted two years. but then the fabric just gave way. the second tarp i bought i covered with 4 coats of weathershield. that's holding up much better. shanthi is right opposite the courts complex, just before watarappola road

You can also safely assume that the silent "I'm not going to post again" hissy fit members are in too. So far population : 1 in that tent.

let me clarify a few things here: 1. the reason i kept quiet is simply because i didn't want to validate bullying. there is a nice way to ask something. and then you have MD and watchman. i simply chose not to reply since there's a nicer way to ask something than the way in these two, mostly MD went about things. and the initial apathy of the moderators towards this initial attitude was equally disheartening. i'm not blaming anyone here. just simply stating my reasons. 2. i am not a rich man. those who know me, know that well. i don't have my parents' money lying around at home to throw at cars. every cent i have spent is my hard earned own. the reason i stick with this garage is because they offer me the best rates, and an easy payment scheme, and that is why sometimes it takes time for them to do any work. i am not a priority, and that is something i have come to terms with. they too are not this major hifi garage and they make do with pocahontas wigwams when they must. 3. i never once said "this is the way things should be done" on this thread. or that "my tinker is the best tinker in the world" it has simply been a documentation of the work i am doing, because i love doing it. that's all it ever was. so accusations to that end, are quite frankly laughable. the lengths some people go to, i tell you... 4. the panel in question, that has led watchman and MD into a rabid frenzy, and even made JB go to the extent of saying i am doing an injustice to a classic, has been fully straightened, beaten, shape restored, and then primered over. there's no filler filling out cracks there. its just that i dont' have photos of the process because oft times i go there after work, and my battery is dying or near dead. and i couldn't take a photo. 5. this car was never exposed to the elements. it was done panel by panel, and then primered over and kept. the panels which had no rust or dents on them, like the roof for example, wasn't primered. but it was never exposed to elements, and left to rust, like some of MD's post claim. honestly it sounds to me like he's been to the garage to see my car more often than i have. 6. every panel was beaten, straightened, and shaped by hand. i removed close to 15kg of catalloy from this car. what you see is primer. there are supercut cans lying all around the garage. the one in question pointed out by MD is holding some throwaway parts from my teg inside, and was left on the bonnet by me. he may be a slow, useless fellow, my tinker, but he's the only one i've got, and i have no other option right now. so in summary, i would just like to say that the abuse that has been meted out to me on this thread may have gone unvalidated by me but wasn't unnoticed. on this day i have, simply put, had enough. so, be glad MD and watchman. because you win. i'm sure the following statement will make you wet yourself with joy: it was never my intention to mislead people, or to promote a bad resto (oh sorry i can't call it that apparently) a bad tinkering job a good one. it was, i reiterate, simply a documentation of my work, and was always open to honest crit, meted out in a helpful manner (a la forums like the 510 registry or ratsun.net, 510realm.com et al) rather than the abuse meted out here. i have never claimed that this is the right way to do it, or that i am the god of restoration. how can i when the self proclaimed resto-jesus is already here? this is my first classic for crying out loud! so yes, the tinker is bad, yes, he has done a horrible job, yes, i am wasting a car, yes i am wasting my money, yes yes yes. a thousand times yes. this is my last post on autolanka. mods, either let the Don, or whoever else has a 510 continue this thread, or shut this down, and remove my account. i'm out. thank you all for being so kind. i wish all of you every success with whatever your endeavours.

It's next application is to paint my car. So there's no real point of keeping it spotless because it won't be used til this car is complete. And this is where it's safest from all elements. But yes a regularly functioning paint booth is no place to do anything that adds to dust.

its there to protect it from the elements. the dust will obviously be cleared before painting. the whole idea of a paint booth is lost if they turn on the exhaust fans there with all that dust. there is nothing amusing or funny about my injury. it has rendered me incapacitated to work or do any basic function like eat button my clothes because i'm left handed. i can't begin to understand what my profession has to do with the fact that you find my predicament "funny". and personally, sir, i sincerely hope you don't break a bone in your body. or you just might see how hilarious it can get.

kelum insisted i add this

here's some more recent photos courtesy of kelum_wj. dat a$$

yes that's the sort of thing he's fixing these days. got that sorted.

meanwhile on don's one, i've been doing some light running repairs. got the brakes serviced, and a pair of side mirrors installed. was near impossible to drive without them. also had that ghastly chicken mesh removed from the front. why do people do this sorta thing is beyond me. whatever turns you on i guess. to me even the "boku allow wheels" this has is nauseating. here she just after i installed the mirrors. and then had the grille removed, and much work done to make her roadworthy. i've also installed a spec 510 SSS steering wheel on this, and lo and behold, the cancel cams for the turn signals work. again, why on earth people remove original steerings and install these ps2 stuff is just beyond me. what a joy it to have a 47 year old piece start working again after a hiatus of so many years, as if nothing was ever wrong! took her to VVTi's mechanic in ja ela for the engine transplant. he's busy building the l18 SSS. the progress of which don will update on. this was on the CKE. time. of. my. life. she ran it without a single burp or hiccough. was a good sendoff for the l13. but it'll soon be back on one of our projects as gandalf the white. (L16 SSS) that's my hand in a cast. broke my thumb. and here she is in ja ela with VVTi's tugboat:

my bodywork is nearing completion, and i snapped these a few days ago. couldn't post because of thread lockdown. the tinker and his lackey are now sanding the primer down to get the body lines and contours of the car. he's adamant on getting things right, so its taking time. currently he's redoing the front right quarterpanel because the headlight surround didn't align perfectly. looked to me like a milimeter or so off but hey, its become his piece de resistance now so... this also involves some light panel beating here and there if alignment isn't perfect as well. we were recently having a good laugh about the 15kg of cataloy he removed from my car. we actually weighed all that shizz we removed into two gunny bags just to see how much it was. panels underneath were all dented from numerous dings over the years. all that's been ironed out now. some body panels were also welded to the body and adjacent panels. who does that?? she's more or less about to go into paint.

Someone give this man a medal!! Well said bro. *-applause-*

I'm sitting here having a drink with KD discussing your car.

is this the hybrid version or the petrol version? either way, there's a lot of things you can do with it. but do understand that all this will lower the value of your car. its a whole new can of worms that you're about to open up. an unending rabbit hole, rather. so firstly have some clear cut budget limits and goals in mind before you start. here are a few things off the top of my head: 1. handling: you can improve with adding a few simple strut bars. start with the front tower strut. if you need more cornering stability go for a rear tower strut (wiill take up a little space for the boot) and a rear lower member brace. anything more and i feel car might be too rigid for daily use. i do believe ultra racing has the entire range for your car. PM me for details on the sellers, because i can't "advertise" per se on the forum, and considering how every word i say is scrutinised meticulously these days, i'd rather avoid the rabies. 2. suspension: nothing like a lowered car, mate. contrary to popular belief, you an easily run a lowered car in sri lanka without having adverse effects. i've been running mine a few inches off the ground for near 2 years now with no issue. you have to always be mindful when going on rough roads. that's it. a set of coilovers with adjustable dampening (very important) and adjustable ride height will do the job. mnid you coilover struts are much stiffer than stock shocks, even on their softest setting, but to me that loss of comfort is a little price to pay for the handling and the looks. my wife is not so convinced. so yeah, that's a tough choice you have to make. again, PM me for details on where to get. i recommend GAB over D2 from personal experience. you can't just put coilovers and stop there. you will need adjustable camber kits for front and rear, and adjustable toe kits for the rear suspension arms. without these your car will chew threw tyres. 3. engine: my god i don' even know where to start. from something as simple as improving how she breathes, ignites, farts and thinks, to a complete k20a (FD2 civic Type R engine) conversion. if you're on a budget, then k20a is out. because that would mean you need engine, manual gearbox, driveshafts, starter motor, clutch, flywheel etc and a manual ecu with a tune (possibly an aftermarket ecu add on as well). there alone i think we have gone beyond the money needed to upgrade to an EX. smaller things of course are to go for a less restricted intake (stick to the K&N drop in replacement, don't go for a 2.50 cone it will ruin your engine) better spark plugs, better ignition (like an MSD kit) a good ECU which can be tuned (this will allow you to adjust for later add ons as well) and a good performance exhaust. like a tanabe medallion, apexi, fujitsubo etc, and not a straight through fart cannon. performance exhausts are quiet in low revs and loud when they have to be. and they are proper mufflers, unlike what most hondaboys slap on their cars. understand this tho. a project car is a serious commitment. once you start doing these sorta things, you really need to let go of the "i can sell this anytime" mentality, because you cant! your expenditure should be closely monitored, because its easy for things to spiral out of control, and you should ideally have another car as a backup for an year or two until all this falls into place. once its running smooth after all the work, you can enjoy the fruits of your labour. and also, depending on how much work you throw into it, it gets a unique identity as "your car" no matter where you go or how many owners it has afterwards. well made and maintained projects have their own market, and sometimes you may even recover what you spent somewhat if the car has a good enough hype. hope this helps. i don't think there are any fit k20's in the country. with the power to weight of that you should have a proper pocket rocket. and we'd have to upgrade your brakes too. just google "k20a fit ge6" its utter porn. if i were you...

can you elaborate on what mods yo want to do? performance of cosmetics?