tiv

Thank you for the photograph, If so what would you assume the correct price is?

Would love to see a few pics...

Original Noahs came with Chassis Tag SR40 and as SR50 (4wd), so on There are only a handful of original Noahs in the country. Even if you buy a conversion, my opinion is by now all the problems would have been sorted. To be sure do an inspection at Car Checks or Toyota. Noah 5 door models were very rare, so just see if a 5 door one was converted to 4 door by welding a cut panel. The welding bit and closing of the driver side rear door is the place where most issues come. Also get the dual AC lines checked by a AC place to see if the shrouding and things were done properly. Lastly the Noah gauge cluster is different from the stock one, and the harness is also different. Do check if all that was replaced correctly. Inspection will cover most of the above points. Your problems are halved as you are looking for a petrol one, as most noahs in the market were petrol to diesel converted and then noah converted, the diffs, final drive, engine guards, subframe, all had changes which are overlooked during the petrol to diesel conversion. From the chassis no you can check if it was a factory 5 door or 4 door model, so try to get a 4 door van converted to a 4 door noah. They are very basic vans and any issue can be easily sorted. Since you are looking for a petrol one, the chances of finding a better conversion are higher as most of the hacked ones are diesel. The American billet grill model is the one that has issues with ground clearance because of the body kit. My knowledge on the subject is now about a decade old, so follow a few facebook groups and you may get an idea of newer experts and garages who handle noahs.

We had a CR51 for like 20 years from new, Auto 4wd, did turbo engine with M/T swap later, ground clearance is almost similar to a Hilux Vigo if you put it on 15' Tyres and 4wd system was very capable. Being low market you might be able to find one for cheap, then again selling is also difficult. There is no major difference in fuel economy between both. These models are still preferred in the hill country markets around nuwara eliya, lot of one owner vans there.

Something interesting I noted, maybe a good topic for another thread. I'm a big fan of car checks, taken in several cars myself. But lately not so much of a crime but more a less a unnoticed negligence has turned up in the used market, let me elaborate; 90% of the people I know, colleagues, friends, family, kin whatever have somewhat dropped down a few notches in the quality of care they gave for their car. Be it a Merc, Audi or a Toyota Given the inflation, tyre prices, oil prices, filter prices, majority of people are skimping on services, going for cheaper oils, cheaper parts, cheaper fuel so on. Not that this didn't happen before but the odds were fairly less unless you went for a car from the 80s. Sadly unless something has really gone south, the most technical and elaborate inspection cannot detect such negligence, except of the owner is honest, then again this is Sri Lanka. This has become very apparent in some of the 1000cc turbo civics of the 2017 era, few vehicles thereafter as well. As paranoid as it sounds, In the event I would go to buy a used car, I would prefer to purchase a known vehicle off a known person, in exchange for some guarantee and peace of mind, that it was well taken care of. Not a remedy but to play safe, stay well clear from car sales to avoid a lemon.

Not entirely relevant to your post but; Current market is a good time for buying as the car salesmen have successfully conned the public into believing that we'll get to go open season on new imports from next year.🤣 The real truth being they are hoarding cars at low price; for a killing profit starting April 2023, thereafter to survive the rest of the year. Certain companies are getting down EV's starting a north of 18mil, so when the get advertised Brand New, or Unreg, the car sales crew will passively increase the prices again. In a nutshell - People are selling cheap now

Use the car for atleast 1000km on low RPM, keep the receipts in the car, usually cops allow a grace period of 14 days to renew the license, incase you get pulled over, you can justify something. Another way is to cover let the car idle whilst varying the RPM for atleast an hour daily, and then do a highway run, at varying RPMs. Do not allow the emissions fellas to touch the car until you cover that 1000km. Also do not forget the sequential oil changes during the break in.

There is a facebook group, Montero Sports Enthusiasts Club of Sri Lanka, join that, there are a few freelance importers of parts for the montero sport. You ll surely find your part there. Thank you, not the expert but on the job trainee during ownership!

They wouldn't go digging either as incase something comes up they might have to honor the warranty. They'll just let him drive away the 100,000km or the warranty span. IF the warranty was over; I would suggest a compression test, its very unlikely for such a low mileage brand new car to consume oil. A very blunt test given the day and age but still a worthwhile diagnosis. It if was me, I would secondly switch to 5w30 or 5w40. The same brand would do. There used to be heaps of threads on the weights of oils and how they fare in our climates. I'm sure the agent is bluntly copying what they use in Japan, to suit their weather. 0w20 in my opinion is too thin for a turbo engine, also given the heat they produce, there is a high tendency of it loosing its properties in the heat range, also the thin nature making it seep through the rings.

Is he sure that it has done 32000km, coz most imports that came in the past decade has mileage tampering, also what type of car is it? Was it the last model of the Civic that came in? I've heard that the 1000cc civics are having premature engine wear but nothing on the 1500cc models, this looks like the car has done a bit more than 32k, or he's running very high boost. Better to go with a compression test as well, FYI the agent should have done that. What you see here is almost like the dipstick Hi level to Low leve been consumed during services, which is approx 1L Also 0w20 is not the recommendation for a conventional turbo small engine car, should be 5w30 or 5w40.

Can be done, but no experience on how it will pass the emissions test afterwards. You will need to physically remove the DPF, then proceed to ECU software alterations to delete it, a good tune might also save you emissions trouble as well. As for the environment, its not going to be that good. As for using Normal Diesel, your injectors might not be compatible with normal diesel, so before you run into it, do more research on that.

There is a gem merchant I know who owns a diesel sorento, the car has done 600,000+km, replaced only turbo once, one set of injectors replaced apparently, current turbo also spewing oil so bit of white smoke, front 4wd diff mechanism is shot, but otherwise the car has done the miles with no issue, just brakes and tires apparently. The block has still not been opened. He runs on whatever diesel he can find, and doesn't care an ounce about the car. Daily driven from Beruwala to Ratnapura and Kandy by numerous drivers. The reliability of these cars are really underrated. Sadly he says the agent is now failing to cover the brand and people are at a shortage of parts. Same with KIA.

Both my Mitsubishis, i've owned from new, never been on Normal Diesel, but given the circumstances I had to use normal diesel, no issues to date, checked with unimo, they said all the state owned ones were on normal diesel since new and no issues.

I too called a very informative petrolhead working in the customs, got to speak to him via a friend, he said they are re-shipping anything and everything that fits the ban, his prediction was soon US post, china post, Japan post and other postal organizations will stop shipping to SL as they are reshipping tons and tons of rejects these days. His simple word was 90% of imports we use are banned related to the automotive sector,

Does this affect something purchased via ebay and sent through DHL or EMS?

So far, the common public opinion is, most of the common rail models still manage to fare with normal diesel, according to what I heard from various dealers, colleagues and kin, Ford Rangers, even the super rare late model everest, Ranger Raptors have no issues, Common rail powered Defenders have had issues, esp 2.2L models, older models can even manage kerosene😁, no idea about Range Rovers though Kias, Hyundais are having no issues, Mitsubishis with the 4d56 common rails, 4m41 common rails have no issue, Most of the Toyotas have no issues except for the 1KD, (occasionally 2KDs), issues mostly in the Vans and Hiluxes and the 1GD which is the most notorious of them to have issues with normal diesel. As per Toyota it can get so bad it goes to limp mode in the auto models. The Isuzu Mu-X is also doing well with normal diesel as per a friend. Meanwhile BMWs have issues and injector failures in 20k+ miles on normal diesel. (Have a friend who needs new injectors for a 2017 X5) Newer Mercs on the other hand are managing despite dealers scaring owners to do tuneups and engine cleanups! Then again this is a very inaccurate feed as there have been instances of soggy fuel as well as heaps of water in fuel messing up the injectors of the above.

What I do is pop off the negative terminal, connect it to the charger and let it do its thing, but nothing that I own has that issue where the electronics go crazy when the battery taken is off. I do it on a two weekly schedule for the cars I don't use. My intent here is to purely save the battery as batteries have gone to abysmal prices. I was told that even trickle chargers can harm the ECU bits if the power goes on and off from the CEB mains, even given that they take time to initialize and scope the battery before applying the charge. Of Course we don't find the high end ones like the stuff celebrities have in their garages in other countries. Average car with a good 45A- 65A battery shows like 12.5v in the morning, and like 12.7v just after a run with engine off. That 12.7- will go to like 12.4 within minutes if you keep the blower or stereo on without the engine running. If you drain it to like 11.9- 11.8 might not crank for more than 5 seconds. This again if its a very good condition battery, FYI I own a 2018 Vitz and have had no issues in removing the battery plugs, the stereo is a pioneer one so no code issues.

I ve bought 3 - 4 sets of tyres from them. Very poor service though, also made mistakes with many orders as well. Do not proceed without calling them and confirming stocks. Also claiming warranty is a nightmare with online retailers like this, so I suggest sticking to your neighborhood tyre shop.

Why would you want to do a diesel conversion? Making it a diesel convert will not help the selling price and market as well as it will be labelled converted! The petrol one is so smooth compared to the diesels. Given the fuel prices and cost, you are better off rebuilding the petrol one. I've been drooling at the 2007-2010 petrol 3.8l ones for ages now, never could get my hands on one

FYI - Montero Sport Also- The montero sport does not have the L200 Chassis, the L200 is leaf sprung, Montero Sport is coil sprung, the chassis is similar but there are a multitude of differences. Do refer the above link. I have been using one from new, its most reliable thing that I've had in my fleet.

https://forums.autolanka.com/topic/13837-my-land-rover-story/?tab=comments#comment-211138

They are extremely unreliable if not restored well, if not taken care of well or if you are unlucky, The govt. and the privileged get them brand new so they can take a few years beating at that level. Also a bit behind in tech, safety and capabilities in the 2020s, even in comparison with the crap we are forced to use in Sri Lanka. Hence why I sold mine as well on the long run. Unless you get a brand new one, or restore one to brand new and decide to live in the jungle, they just don't make sense.