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tiv

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Everything posted by tiv

  1. Just asking mate, based on your account name, did u own one of those Supras back in the day? or the NA one?
  2. This can be bought off eBay for $20-40, and the adapter device for it for another $40. Connects to a special data port behind the oem device, (may vary based on the device) As for the aux in, if there is no port behind the unit, a good electrician can solder one in. You can then buy a similar combo port with USB and 3.mm aux in and solder it together. Many online DIYS for this But I'd advice you to invest on a premium media device, as the OEM device displays in Japanese and you are pretty much missing its functions, as far as I know the language cannot be changed. An aftermarket proper branded device has all these features built it and will integrate the steering controls as well. Don't fall for the Rs. 20,000-30,000 range faux products carrying a brand name. A genuine unit spans above Rs 50,000
  3. Static electricity from a door beading, the eye-opener for hangover mornings

    1. Hoonigan

      Hoonigan

      Always get you when you least expect them eh?

  4. 1. Yes, they can be purchased separately and installed into the existing lights, It would be unwise to try to hack in a set of lights from a another make/ model 2. Try to keep modifications to a minimal, or preserve the original and use another bumper to 'decorate' 3. With fibreglass and good tinker, any front end job is possible, however I'd advice u again to keep things minimal, and in a way you can restore it back to OEM once you pass this phase 4. Drawbacks - These angel eye lights are not as good as OEM lights, Aftermarket HIDs are messy and problematic at times, To use HIDs a projector lens is a must, Installing angel eyes into existing lights may later cause leaks, cracks etc in the original lights, You will be called a Vesak thorana, It will have a bad outcome one your resale value, value will be inversely proportional to the hacking you have done to the front end of the car. These mods may render offensive light outputs and disturb oncoming traffic harming you and others, you may get copped for light mods above 8000K (cop dependent). Excessive mods to the front bumper may hamper radiator / aircon functions, over expose the radiator to the elements and debris shortening its lifespan, affect aerodynamics, overall safety of the car, and ground clearance, and a negligible difference to fuel economy. 5. As far as I can see, the car in the picture has OEM lights, maybe allotted to some country spec, with a subtle mod known as Eyelids Hope this may steer you the right way. cheers
  5. I'm sure no one wants to rivet these badges by choice, but by sheer need to 'save' the badges, however there are a few lunatics I've seen going overboard with the rivet thingy thereby every piece of garnish/ trim and what-not in the car meets a rivet. A relative of mine acquired a X-trail recently and the thing had 37 rivets in total, all ending in the body or some metal panel.
  6. I too am a big fan of these Dome Leds, I have seen warm white for household applications, but simply skipped the fact they can be used in the cabin. Great find! Useful for classic vehicles as well, to maintain the period look. safer on all switches, these can be left on overnight and still have a usable battery by morning!
  7. I had it shipped from Australia and US, no issues / custom cases You can't actually touch up normal paint with Dip, rather u need to mask/ coat the entire panel or bit. However you can touch up over existing Dip, Might be cheaper to do a touchup by conventional methods coz I had to shell out approx $250 for 5 cans back then.
  8. As far as I know there is no proper retail yet, but I've seen some chaps selling an Asian alternative, To mention plastidip is quite good in terms of durability, as I ve had a coated bit for over 3years now exposed to the elements, still 99% intact. It is a bit fragile until it sets ie; more or less a few days,
  9. I too purchased this, pending arrival. How is the quality?
  10. The shielding / Casing bit must have fallen off or tampered with along the way. Also due to the division and grommet, it may have been only covered with tape which fell off probably. You better buy a piece (available in-various gauges and sizes in Auto electrical shops). Usual manufacturer wiring loom method is : Wire-> Complete electrical tape masking -> casing -> tape masking over casing. Pay bit of attention to the Division in the loom going into the grommet, and cover it all up just to be safe, 5min DIY
  11. Hi guys, Any good / commendable place in Kandy for touch-up jobs and tinkering?
  12. Admins, can't we have a poll on this? based on various horn habits, may help us soften the ol' road rage when the hillbilly behind stands on his horn trigger
  13. Not to argue, I driven over 1000km in several countries including India, Sadly using a horn frequently is pretty much a must in our country, People tend to be burdened and distracted with current times and fail to keep attention to the road, plus how do we know what mentality the other fellow driver is in let it be car bus bike whatever? Once I lost a reasonably expensive OEM snorkel, to a 3 wheel, his fault, driving all over the road, my fault? not sounding the horn loud enough. I got 15000 off my lousy insurance, which I replaced soon after, anyway a simple tap on the horn could have avoided this So in countries like ours, I prefer to have a decent horn, not annoyingly loud, but enough to keep others aware, for safety of both parties.
  14. I recently upgraded mine to a Hella setup, 118 Decibels, Or else you can go with the Hella Supertones, bit rash for me A notch higher and you can go with an air horn setup, vacuum operated rather complicated, http://www.hella.com/hella-sg/assets/media/Hella_Horns_Brochure_LoRes.pdf check the link, most of these horns are locally available, tad bit costly There is a DIY thread by Schiffer, check that out too There is a OEM Denso horn pair stock in certain trim Full Size SUVs (Nissan Patrol, Land Cruiser 200) Extremely loud if u can source one, prone to annoy others though. In reality a secondary horn is hard to use, as the switch will be located in the dash probably, in emergencies you'll pretty much end up jumping on the wheel button, a better choice would be to use a two-way switch, to select which horn is powered by the steering wheel switch. Was stock in some merc and euros. All the best!
  15. Damn that does look mint, I'd recommend a set of period matching alloys when feasible, Thumbs up for a good job machan, looking forward to see more
  16. Would love to see some pics of your restore
  17. Good Job machan, this little things improve emissions, fuel consumption and the lifespan of these engines, people tend to forget all these and run for hybrids As for the OBD stuff, I first used a $10 ODB Bluetooth adapter and ran the "Torque" app, however this adapter works but was not that stable and had compatibility issues with sensors, there for I upgraded to the PLX Kiwi Obd Wifi Device (https://plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=GSST2WIFI) cost about $100 then and had it imported It is much faster and troublefree connectivity, used since 2011, and works with Apple devices and PC as well, this adapter allowed me to read all sensors real-time in that speed I've used Dashcommand ($40 then) mostly and previously various freeware, This setup has never failed me and I've sorted out OBD issues in various vehicles on the go even after a mud bath in Yala.
  18. Did a few try outs on an old panel, it didn't go that well, considering the health risk associated with fumes and dust, as it is at home and not well ventilated However thereby I decided to pause the project. And the weather ruined my free time @Kavvz- I mentioned before that I have no intention to sell off the vehicle, thanks however I will attemp this project once I acquire a decent location and a better ventilation setup Thanks for the help guys, please do keep dropping in ideas, as it will help us in some point of time, cheers
  19. If you are talking about the heater lines going from the radiator ( engine bay pic would help) which heats up the element for the hot air / heater blower setup, (common setup in most vehicles, however not sure if its the same in the March) Yes this is sometimes done, multiple reasons, Reduce coolant volume?, Improve the Cooling component efficiency, faulty internals in the hot side, damaged pipes, previous owner preferences However this is a sign your car has been tampered with, so get your car checked for other bass related muck ups, such as Thermostat, Catalytic Converter, dodgy wiring etc Similar bypass setup in my LR long time ago, piping still intact, the engine was imported from the middle-east, no wonder they gave up heating !
  20. I'd go with the Montero Sport, the engine is 4D56 based, and the true the chassis is derived from the Triton / L200 but has the advantages as well. Better ground clearance, off road performance, less complicated, easy to maintain and cheaper bits. In terms of comfort, due to the Live axle setup it will rattle your teeth off given the conditions, But the coils rather than pickup leaf springs help.
  21. Yes, but made in Thailand to UK spec, not South African, AFAIK there is no difference
  22. I use the PLX Kiwi wifi device, bridging OBD to WIFI on apple devices, I purchased this setup long before the bluetooth kits came, The software I use is dashcommand which I also a paid app, The thing with this setup is its 100% troublefree, connect anytime, and very fast, codes are read and translated then and there and can be cleared too I've tried OBD2 Bluetooth and both OBD2 usb, but they are troublesome and not user friendly For now my purpose is only Diagnosis so, I prefer that setup
  23. Well, here goes my MAF sensor clean Vehicle: Toyota Hilux - D4D (Commonrail VGT) Agent: CRC CO Contact Cleaner (Rs.1090) Purchased from (http://www.fctsl.com/) - Services Highly recommended ( Admins feel free) Took the MAF out - Matter of removing 2 Philips screws, Pulled the plug out, (May vary due to Make, Model etc Temperature Probe on the out side The MAF sensor elements inside ( Before Cleaning) The agent; Information on the Canister Took out the O Ring After Cleaning I sprayed upto 5 times as you can see the sensor is quite clean already While spraying, I let all the excess pour out, repeating roughly every 5 mins Let it dry for about 2 hours and put it back DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING EXCEPT FOR THE PLASTIC BITS, Wiped all the plastic bits clean, I had used the car earlier that day and left to cool for over 2 hours, Results: The results were not immediate The car started rough, engine check was ON ( I was petrified) Upon scanning the codes corresponded to High MAF values and Low Intake Temperature values However the Sensors were working perfectly, Idle - 8-12g/s MAF on Throttle 100-180s g/s MAF and Intake Temp 31-32c Took it for a normal spin, halfway to the trip, the ECU cleared the codes, The Check engine light turned off, Now the car Pulls much better, visually cleaner emissions, and most noticed, a much smoother idle, Used for almost 150km today and no issues Thanks a lot for your valuable advice Rumesh88, Vishkid Hope this is of use to someone!
  24. Thanks a lot for the suggestions guys But this appalling weather is ruining my plans
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