tiv

Yes, definitely, sometimes I resort to travelling all the way to Negombo where there is a joint running since the 70s as per my uncle, where they do alignments 100% via manual measurements and experience but with newer gear from Italy. So far the best, for all our vehicles except my Hilux which pulls to the left on throttle, which seems to be an inherent factory problem as per popular literature.

Is it just me or has Toyota gone into a bit of retro styling by providing the quad lamp setup as in old LHs of the 80s and 90s? On the same topic, just ordered a set of Philips Diamond Vision HB4 9006 for my fogs, lets see how they compare when they turn up in a few weeks

As Don said your best bet is to take it to a radiator joint, take the top part apart and remove the bits or whatever that is there. While you are at it, you can flush the radiator / cooling system and change the coolant as well, these bits might come out during manual flushing if you can channel running water from the outlet and let it pour via the cap or inlet.

I too had a similar issue on a brand new Maxxis 31 tyre, needed some 30gs to balance, the retailer decided to swap the tyre then and there

Most of these paints are very thin, even with a few coats the level of the scratch is likely to be lower than the surrounding paint, thereby the touch-up rarely peels off, instead what happens is the taller sides of the original paint comes of with time, expanding the scratch and leaving the touch-up 'island' in the middle, anyways these are negligible specs that occur with time, a small refinish from the pen would do. +1

Our car sales chaps and associated body shops already know this, been using these since the mid 2000s, the en-bulk colour they use is Toyota 056 white, first I thought it was correction fluid / tipex. They even apply a clear coat on top. I've tried Toyota 8P4. 042, 1E9 and 3E5, with upto 4-5 coats you can salvage like a 1cm wide scratch near original state, various brands depending on the colour code though

Regarding HIDs, If installed properly with a projector which I elaborated before, would give a result similar or close to OEM, The HID kit I can recommend is Xentec, imported from US (not eBay), or a retrofit from OEM Toyota parts, so I'd say its not a disaster to venture, instead its a reasonable option to the one who is adventurous. Also in terms of visibility, a branded bulb upgrade will definitely have results, but they are not comparable to HIDs, if thats what you are looking for. I myself am considering investing on a set of these new CREE led bulbs, just for venturing newer waters; which has already thrown HIDs off the map. As for those LKR5000-7500 HID retrofit kits, those are for the V*P light/ Posh "Threewheel" ignorant types, who don't know where the Dim switch is, they fit into the existing globes and do a damn good job of blinding everyone around and flickering at night and eventually dying off when you need it the most. (Of course I know the forum members have duly noted the risk and removed it, due to our common interest in automobiles) http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-PHILIPS-DIAMOND-VISION-H7-5000K-55w-Registered-mail-/321738794079?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item4ae920645f I was referring to this batch, These and nightbreakers, i've ordered plenty off eBay, all of them still work and much better than Koito and Stanley bulbs you get on the market.

The process includes taking apart the entire headlights, and installing a projector in front of the bulb slot, and then fitting a decent HID kit for the lights. Looking at around 35,000/- or a bit more, http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/10250-hid-xenon-lights/page-9?hl=%20projector%20%20bara Check the above post as well. You need to find out the bulb and holder type, ex: Hb4, H7 etc Then replace the same, if it still doesn't light up, look into the wiring harness, holder etc Another alternative for HIDs and all bulb needs are premium bulbs like Osram Nightbreakers and Philips Diamond Vision, (ebay quite resourceful for these)

Have the steering ball joints checked on the front end, and the steering rack mounts; common issue in vehicles nowadays

Congrats on the purchase mate , regarding modifications, not to worry, after a few months of use you'll be done with the "I ll keep her original" phase and start plotting modifications or improvements I should say rather, when that time hits keep the above ideas as a guide. Also I'd like to add, why not do a projector headlight conversion / retrofit (definitely with projectors please!) with HIDs or newer CREE led globes while you are on the headlight restoration. Good luck!

http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16548-diy-horn-instalationreplacing/ For a bit of DIY clarity

First time I heard this on a long trip, I thought I've busted my stock silent BOV, or exhaust or the main belt, later I realized it was the damn bus flooring it behind me, and stopping all over So this is technically a mod? I thought it was some stock valve on the newer ones.

If you have a massive craving and a considerable budget, I'd recommend getting a Webasto unit down, will atleast maintain its value rather than mismatching a unit from another make etc. http://www.webasto.com/us/markets-products/car/aftermarket-sunroofs/ Next best thing is a roof swap, but if not done properly can lead to strength and flex issues, and the opening is quite large in the OEM sunroof / rag top. Corrosion is a common woe in most sunroof equipped vehicles, especially in the coastal areas.

The best recommended / discussed position for the shock sensor is usually the steering column, to the metal casing in which the steering shaft swivels, free of wires, most suitably under the gauge cluster, if accessible or under the steering column cover, top piece or bottom piece. This place is the safest as it will trigger incase the wheel is rotated, and is likely to save the car from being stolen, but not your belongings, various ancillaries and accessories I have also tried mounting to the inner fender, where the front fender attaches to, so that it can catch vibrations along the entire subframe, also tried the front firewall, and a certain front brace/ strut running right across the dashboard (may not be applicable for all cars). The issue with these places is it tends to trigger the alarm quite often. Please note these are from DIY experience, as I am not a professional installer of these units.

Yes, read the linked post, it was discussed a bit there, It terms of cooling capability the a/c compressor cooled system(built-in coolbox) is ahead. I was told however if a if a coolbox / refrigerator was fitted from the factory, the compressor is specially equipped to handle a coolbox, therefore if you retrofit a coolbox to a particular vehicle, you need to upgrade it to the correct capable compressor, otherwise the existing compressor with fail in a short period due to excessive load. As for the thermoelectric cooler, I have used a Toyota branded unit, an OEM upgrade for the Hilux / Fortuner from Thailand, this too couldn't get below 10-15c However it can hold a canned drink etc cool enough, forget ice though. Plugs in to the 12v port.

http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15992-electric-cool-boxes/?hl=refrigerator#entry260160 If its thermoelectric/ Peltier, in a practical setting in our country, I'd doubt you'll get below 15c Unless you have a dual battery setup, a 3A draw is likely to drain your battery overnight, it will be harmless for 1-2hours with the engine off, separate fused power via a switch is better than acc, or ignition switch as there is a draw further from the cars electrics, via provided the car starts easy.

Only thing I know is cops tend to fuss light above 8000K, judged by their visual capability of course.

AFAIK, other than physically inspecting the vehicle for various signs that suggest its overall age, and comparing with whatever service/ related history, there is no consistent way, as these crooks get to the point where they replace the entire gauge cluster with lower mileage units and so on. Some say loose dashboard trim and fascia in a relatively new vehicle (<10000km) is a sign, but nevertheless not conclusive.

Been using the Night Breaker lineage for almost 5 years now, with the latest 'unlimited' upgrade, does wonders on the stock housings! Which variant is this? Plus or Unlimited? And may I ask what is the Temperature on the HIDs? as the color is almost the same as the osrams However reviews claim they have a lower lifespan, they haven't failed on anyone I know. Excellent purchase!

First of all, this could be a glitch in the small display that is there, which may need replacement, Anyways if you are sure if it is carbon or soot, This looks like a Japanese vehicle, it would have helped if you were specific, as your question is vague, this answer will be too. Usually these gauge clusters are covered by a piece of trim, black, grey, walnut etc, usually with or without screws, If there are no visible screws, you might be able to pull it out, however be very careful as you might end up ripping it apart, better if you can find out this step through a service manual etc If there are switches attached to this trim, you may remove the clips and disconnect the switches. Once the trim is out of the way, the gauge cluster is very likely to be mounted to the firewall using brackets, the gauge cluster is attached to these brackets with screws usually 2-4, A long magnetic Philips (+) screw driver will be useful as if you drop any screw behind the dash board, you might end up with a life long rattle. Once these screws are off, its a matter of lifting off the gauge cluster, but do not yank it out, make note to slowly remove the 2-3 wire harness plugs attached to the board, if it has a mechanical cable for speedo ( NAME MAKE YOM would have helped!) Disengage it carefully. Once the entire gauge cluster is free, remove it and place it on a clean table, Usually the Transparent cover is held by clamps, 3-4 around the gauge cluster, Simply unclamp using a soft tool. If the transparent cover is hazed, I'd recommend a little bit of rubbing compound (3M / V cut / etc) a very mild wipe can do wonders. Matter of wiping the display with a lint free cloth and everything else. I do not recommend touching or removing the needles as it can mess up the calibration. While you are at it I'd recommend changing the bulbs to LEDs. And masking possible holes where dirt can get in. Reassemble in the same order. All the best

There is a place, Prices range from Rs 2000- 4500, i'd recommend them, you can find their page on fb, I think it is against rules to mention a name here

At 22,000km injector cleaning is unnecessary unless u landed a poor batch of fuel or you've been using via cans etc to refill (common in the estate sector) Also misuse of these injector cleaners can end up ruining them, leading to a bigger expense trying to gain an economy that was never there. You are better off spending this money and time on routine maintenance ( Service ) with all genuine gear.

Well, mods on this judging by the looks Bumper delete and shaved mounts, Slightly embossed wheel arches, maybe almost OEM and Some hard to see mirrors Mostly tinker work BBS style rims, with a low profile tyre, may / may-not be spaced based on the wheel width. Car looks lowered, maybe with a wee-bit of negative camber Requires parts and a good mechanic, depends on how far you want to spend ie; camber kits and coilovers or make-do with existing parts with guided fabrication. I recall an AL member having a similar car, in white, search a bit. This picture looks like a poor example of a GSR, I'd suggest a more OEM look/ spec car, with subtle mods, and upgrades rather. All the best!

Looking good guys!, all the best

A late addition http://www.cosl.lk/pdf/Vision_standards_Driving_license_Sri_Lanka.pdf