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MrCat

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MrCat last won the day on January 16

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About MrCat

  • Rank
    MrCat

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth - WA
  • Interests
    Cars, Cars, and more Cars.....

My Vehicle Details

  • Vehicle Make
    BMW
  • Vehicle Model
    E30
  • Engine Type
    1.8 litre, DOHC
  • Mechanical Mods
    Z3 steering rack, Z3 short shifter, Lightweight flywheel and bigger clutch, Braided brake lines
  • Cosmetic Mods
    Not Yet

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    I reckon E34 is a better package for local conditions. More roomier and comfortable, equally as fun to drive.
  2. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    So, the car was running fine with NO excess smoke, cold start issues, timing chain noises etc.. However, I always felt that the idle wasn’t spot-on. I decided to address the famous ‘mess under the intake’. This is what the E30 community had named the German over-engineering effort under the intake manifold on the M42 engine. They decided to go nuts with coolant lines and vacuum hoses and added a throttle body heater which is completely useless in warm weather. This basically involved: ** Remove coolant lines which goes to throttle body heater plate ** Remove excess vacuum lines and add a couple of direct connections. 1.) Valve cover to throttle body. 2.) ICV to intake boot ** Add new coolant bypass from cylinder head to the plastic coolant distributing thingy on the side of the block ** Replace two short fuel lines under the intakes, the high pressure line was leaking a bit ** Replace all the gaskets and vacuum lines ** Clean everything (ICV, TB, manifolds, plastic bits, connectors, etc...) Parts list below, ordered from the local dealer: · Intake boot >> 13711734385 · Hose clamp (L12-15), fuel line >> 07129952104 (4 of these) · Vacuum hose from FPR (3.5X1.8) >> 11727545323 · Gasket – throttle housing >> 13541743261 · Hex nut with plate - throttle housing >> 07129900681 / 07129904553 (4 of these) · Air hose (to ICV) >> 13411721971 · Gasket – upper intake manifold >> 11611717761 · Gasket – lower intake manifold >> 11611734684 · Hex nut with plate (AM7 ZNNIV SI) >> 07129905541 (8 of these) · Coolant Hose (this is from E36 M42, used for coolant by-pass) >> 11531247398 Some of the parts: Lower intake manifold removed: The ‘”mess under the intake”: Unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures while putting things back together. With new hoses and gaskets, the car idles perfectly now. Perhaps it’s all in my head, but feels like throttle response is sharper.!!
  3. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    Ha Ha.. I think the E30 is in a very unique position which helps to drive prices up globally. 80`s/90`s mechanical simplicity, sedan practicality – yet compact, rear drive, ~1100kg weight - this combination IS quite rare. Add independent rear suspension to the mix and I simply don’t know of any other mainstream car/model which is similar. The C class comes close, but that`s a heavier car in general. Yeah, the E30 M3 is a different beast.. Racing pedigree, homologation production run, proper German over-engineering, etc... They dont` make em anymore, so the only way for the prices to go is 'up'..
  4. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    Also, the air conditioner was never working effectively during the warmer summer days here in Perth. The system was already converted to R134a refrigerant. 38.9 degrees outside: The car could only manage to bring vent temps down to about 22 degrees: So the system got leak tested and re-gassed: While working on it, the A/C technician identified that the high pressure sensor was triggering. Then realised that the auxiliary fan wasn’t running. The 10amp fuse was missing, so I replaced it, and the fuse burnt immediately. Since the high speed fan circuit is on a 30amp relay, we just used a 30 amp fuse. The aux fan is now working, but on high speed when A/C on. Keeping the temps down to a respectable 5.6 degrees when the compressor is running: I kept troubleshooting on the low speed fan circuit, only to realise that the resistor was missing. Someone bypassed it completely. Replaced resistor with a Bosch item from BMW, all sorted (used an extra aluminium plate to better dissipate heat - my Father`s idea):
  5. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    Ok, so looks like there is no easy way to port content from a different forum archive in to AL, so i am going to manually copy-paste useful content from the old forum archive. The odometer wast working when I bought the car, so I got the instrument cluster professionally reconditioned with new gears, globes and a clean. Also replaced the following items, mainly for cosmetic reasons: · Fuse box cover (genuine BMW) · Turn Signal Lenses - Front (genuine BMW) · Replaced hood/bonnet strut (aftermarket) · Interior light (used item) Replaced all the auxiliary belts: • Air Conditioner: 13x890mm : BOSCH 13A0890 • Power steering: 10x800mm : BOSCH 10A0800 • Alt+Water pump: 10x1025mm : 10A1025 New belts in place: Removed, cleaned and trim restored the front lip. Refitted with new (genuine BMW) clips:
  6. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    Thanks for the tip.. having a look around.. 😊 Edit: Found one archive.. Yay..!!!! https://web.archive.org/web/20170226122911/http://www.bmwforums.com.au/showthread.php/45957-1990-E30-318is-a-k-a-Little-Red/page3 And another copy taken later on : https://web.archive.org/web/20170419150430/http://www.bmwforums.com.au/showthread.php/45957-1990-E30-318is-a-k-a-Little-Red/page4 Anyone know an easier way to port or move the above thread(s) to AL..?
  7. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    Thought of noting down some of the upgrades I’ve done to the car. I know the E30 is not popular as a tuner car or a modern classic in SL, but hey, this may help someone someday. I had a forum thread which I religiously updated on a different site, but the whole site disappeared with all my build/fix history L One of my favourite upgrades and one of the absolute must do`s of anyone who is after a more enjoyable drive out of an E30 – replace the factory power steering rack.! The standard spec rack is 4 turns lock-to-lock which just too slow and mundane. I`ve replaced with a unit from a BMW Z3, which is ‘THE’ quickest steering rack (linear ratio, not progressive) which would bolt in to the E30 chassis without modifications. Rack-ends, hoses, reservoir - all these got replaced which completely transformed the drive. Cleaned and painted the rack before fitting, some before and after pics: After:
  8. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    Hello All, It’s a slow day at work, thought I’ll post a few pics of my own car to keep the E30 spirit going.. The day we bought her home a bit over 2 years ago….. Bone stock, no upgrades no modifications.. About 95% of things working as it should, few leaks here and there, lumpy idle, paint job looks better in pics. Actually, it had a couple of upgrades: A tuned chip to run on 98 octane with the rev limiter increased to 7500 – which was great. Then a cone filter instead of the brilliantly designed factory air-box – a useless addition. These are more recent. Only the Racing Dynamic wheels are visibly different, but many.. many.. bits are either replaced or improved by now…
  9. MrCat

    Door rubber beading worn out.

    Its called a window weather strip/seal. Just tell them it`s the rubber strip between the door skin and glass. As long as the drain holes at the bottom of the door are not blocked it won’t cause any issues.
  10. MrCat

    Project A72V

    Didn’t mean to discourage you in anyway when I said find the best car. Now that you own it, enjoy the process and have fun. One last thing, try to take things slow and learn as you go. We all think we`ll do this that and the other as soon as we start working on a car, but most initial thoughts turn out to be quite useless and outdated soon (ask me how I know) Good Luck and have fun.!
  11. MrCat

    Project A72V

    Good Stuff.! I`m no expert in this particular model, but what I can mainly say about any older car in general is to buy the best example you can find. Unless it is a rare or highly sought after model, finding the best one is always more cost effective and gives less surprises over the long run. I am not talking about buying a pristine example for a premium price, but rather about finding the best car for a set budget or adjusting the budget a little bit for the right car. Also, IMHO mechanical issues are far easier to sort out over body/chassis/rust/interior issues, especially in a car of this vintage. So i would pay more attention to exterior and interior condition when searching for a car (i.e. original bits and pieces still intact). This is especially true if you are expecting to ‘restore’ things properly. Mechanical (engine/drive-train, etc..) overhauls are easier to do over getting interior and exterior bits up to spec.
  12. MrCat

    Nissan FB 15 ECU Problem

    Unfortunately on board diagnostics on these older cars can be extremely limited and can return confusing codes/messages. I can’t even get proper sensor readings on my N17 with an OBD2 port, the same code reader with the same app returns better/more data when connected to my Mazda 6. But the good thing is that older cars are much simpler with a few basic sensors and simple reliable fuel injection. There is a higher chance that the error is actually ECM related (anything from wiring harness or ground to internal memory), so yes, getting it scanned from the agent is a good idea. If you have access to a spare ECM (i.e. friend’s car), can try swapping the ECM, it will work as long as there is no immobiliser module/code within the ECM itself. Additionally, a competent auto electrician may be able to check the basic supporting sensors such as O2 sensor (since you mentioned cold start issues), air flow, throttle position (if there is any) etc… One more thing about the ABS warning, in an older car, there is a higher chance that the ABS module is completely independent of main OBD (i.e. ABS module and ECM does not talk to each other). I don’t know about this particular model in detail, but it is a possibility. If you are waiting to get it checked/fixed, just pull the fuse and completely disable the module. It`s extremely dangerous if ABS kicks in when it`s not supposed to (ask me how I know). You can get a second opinion if you like, but I would always run a car with an ABS warning with the ABS fuse pulled off OR after disabling the ABS modulator by disconnecting the plug that connects to the modulator.
  13. MrCat

    Nissan FB 15 ECU Problem

    Do you experience an actual issue with the car? Hesitate to start or accelerate, misfire, etc…? Also, did they reset the error code(s)? If they did, has it come back since?
  14. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    Look..!! Spotted in a popular Tele-drama
  15. MrCat

    BMW E30 enthusiasts?

    Nice.! Looks like I`ll have to get the spare diff rebuilt with an LSD centre eventually. Recently went from 14 inch wheels to 16 inch (205/50 R16) which made a big difference in grip levels, the car doesn't` fishtail like mad in the wet anymore. But the bigger tires does seem to make the rear end a bit snappy, so when it does let go its instant.!
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