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terrabytetango

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Everything posted by terrabytetango

  1. So checking in at 2 months shy of 8 years of ownership, done 67K kms, battery maintains 3.9v at each cell (checked April this by Toy#ta L#nka, and still giving back usable fuel economy. This thing has been so well behaved, I'll probably just change the battery at some point and continue using it.
  2. Hello all. I have crawled out from under my rock to humbly request your help. The Starlet's brakes are no longer sufficient for emergency stops, and the wheels do not lock up even if I stand on the pedal. Brake pad replacement did nothing. I believe it is time for new discs in the front. Could the AL alumni please point me in the right direction of getting this attended to? I don't mind paying more, as long as a solid job is done, without needing a revisit. As always, your input is greatly appreciated.
  3. I have a good one but it isn't for sale. Maybe the other one we're both familiar with is
  4. Sorry dude, was busy during the weekend and didn't get a chance to take any photos while taking it apart. The inside was coated in carbon dust, the brushes still had around 60% left. No ball racer, only a sleeve bearing which I sanded, and then cleaned it all up, but the commutator was cut up too badly, and there may have been a short in a winding because it kept blowing fuses only after a few minutes. I decided to scrap it and buy a used one for 4k. Thanks for you input
  5. @Davy just took apart the motor, the damned thing has a bush on the front, not a bearing. When i inserted thee shaft from the opposite end, there didn't appear to be any noticeable play, and no noticeable rubbing of the stator against the magnets. What would be your advise on this, as I am clueless about bushes. Would installing a racer do the trick?
  6. Were you able to locate spare brushes? My plan is to rebuild the racers (i've got some experience with rebuilding racers for my r/c vehicles). In either case the motor has to come out, I'll probably get to it on saturday. Thanks for your expertise (as usual) @Davy
  7. So my Starlet had a new radiator installed yesterday, because the old one's plastic tank cracked open and dumped coolant on Sri J'Apura mawatha. Root cause is a seized radiator fan, which loosens up just enough when warm/hot to spin, but is very stiff when cold. Has anyone attempted to repair the motor? In particular, I'd like to know if it uses ball racers on both ends, or brass bushes. if the former, I can easily recondition/replace the bearings, but I hate dealing with bushes and would much rather install a new motor that used ball racers. the motor is a Denso unit, but I can't find clear pictures of one in a state of disassembly showing what I need to see. Your feedback is as usual most appreciated.
  8. My 2015 Axio will also struggle to achieve momentum on a relatively steep hill, it's down to how the power is delivered to the wheels. Switching off Eco will help things.
  9. Tired of my dependable Starlet. I think it's time I bought an old European car.

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. terrabytetango

      terrabytetango

      E30 is tempting, but has to be a 6 cylinder. And I don't know anyone who is willing to part with theirs.

    3. pug306xsi

      pug306xsi

      well that will be a bit hard to find. How about an E34? I finally got the better half approval for a project, but having a hard time finding a good one.

    4. MrCat

      MrCat

      Actually, from a local/SL context, what`s the best Euro to have a bit of fun with sensible running costs? Not a big luxury barge, but something relatively nimble and fun..?  I reckon E36..? Or a Punto? Personally, E30 for me hands down (even a M20/M25 6cyl conversion is very very simple if an engine is found). But good quality parts/modifications are expensive compared to the E36.

  10. Yes Nightbreaker Unlimited's sorry. Mine are HB3/9006 for high beam, H11 for low.
  11. I fitted my Starlet with Osram Nightbreaker Laser bulbs recently, and they work well for me. My Axio Hybrid has Nightbreaker Ultras (one generation earlier) in all 4 lights and they've been fine thus far, especially the high beam, which in concert with the lows will force even the most determined high beam user to revert to dipped beams. I'd suggest staying away from HID and LED retrofits as they're not regulated and more often than not just blind oncoming cars.
  12. This is why you stick to 60km/h or less on any road other than the highway.
  13. how many here lift up the windscreen wiper blades on their cars, and why?

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. matroska

      matroska

      I don't do it for a couple of reasons 

      1) I don't think it changes anything re blades getting melted 

      2) I park indoors 90% of the time 

       

    3. terrabytetango

      terrabytetango

      I too am of the impression it's a fruitless exercise, I care for mine with weekly by cleaning the blades. The originals ones which came with the car have lasted for over two years, daily parked in the sun. What concerns me is what might happen to the wiper arm hinge pin after a time, since I'm pretty sure it wasn't designed to be operated daily.

    4. ShintaroX

      ShintaroX

      Yup. It’s definitely a placebo effect because as everyone know, When you pop them up, they are even closer to the sun so logically they will melt much faster.

  14. i will speak to him and get back to you on that machan.
  15. afaik cars are modified on a case by case basis for disabled people. There is no negotiation with the examiner, as long as the driver can prove he can drive the car with the provided controls.
  16. Yes, I have a friend who was affected by Polio who drives. He's got hand controls installed in his car.
  17. Friends, can someone please point me in the direction of a shop that deals with door window issues? In my case the rubber runners have hardened into plastic and i need to get them replaced.

    1. The Stig

      The Stig

      try rexton motors in darley road. next to the fire brigade

  18. Alloys are optional. Mine didn't come with alloys, heated seats (useless anyway) nor LED headlights, but it's got everything else.
  19. Only G grades have a remote key, the rest have ignition keys, so that's the easiest way to spot the difference. The next is the A/C control garnish; the G grade has a faux CF weave deal going on under a shiny translucent plastic (same for the gear level surround), which the regular grade does not have. And then there's the steering wheel (now this *might* be replaced by the importer, because they used to do it on JDM 141s), which does not have the controls for the radio on the left spoke.
  20. So most of you are aware I own an old Toyota Starlet. One thing I had neglected to get fixed immediately were the brakes; they were there, but they didn't have much bite when slowing from high speeds. Since I had to do a timing belt change as well, I never really pushed the car beyond 70kmh, even on the highway. However my procrastination came to bite me in the ass last week when I crashed into an idiot in a Vitz who cut into my lane from Hemas Hospital trying to a U turn and stopped right in front of me. It was like a movie playing in slow motion, I stood on the brakes and hit the car just hard enough to crunch the bumper, left signal light and slightly bend the fender. Things were sorted out, but suffice to say, it was completely my fault because I put off maintenance. Turns out, both discs and drums need resurfacing, along with new brake pads all around. The worst part is that I don't really put off maintenance either, but for some reason I had put this on the mental back burner, and instead focused on trivial things like broken power window switches and door panels.
  21. Good luck finding a Swift for 2 mil, let alone 1.8.
  22. It's still a 1 series, thus more or less same driving dynamics.
  23. actually Chris Harris tested the 2 door 135M with the 8 speed auto and he loved it. Plus there are plenty of videos of the 130i being driven quite well too.
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