Anjo

Had same issue when I purchsed mine. In my case it was due to burnt dash bulbs. replaced them with LEDs; they look much better and lasts hell of a lot longer.

The procedure differs slightly from car to car. I will not be held responsible for any damage occuring to your car or you by following these instructions. If you're not comfortable with it, by all means get the help of an experienced person. 1) Open your drivers door fully and look for any visible screws, usually theres one holding the door handle assembly. Start by removing all plastic garnishings, especially the one around the door handle assembly. They are held on by clips and can easily be popped using a thin flat blade (I use a butter knife) be carful not to damage the plastic though. Remove all the visible screws while you are at it. 2) Inspect the arm rest. They usually come off by pulling it straight up. You will need to use a fair bit of force when doing this for the first time. When it pops, disconnect the wire harnesses of the switch panel and completely take it off. 3) You will now see some screws (usually 3) holding the panel to the door, remove them and set them down in the order they were removed, the lengths of these some times vary and it is ery important that you fix them back in the same order. 4) The door panel is held around the edges by plastic clips. You can now pop them by inserting a thin flat object (butter knife ) between the panel and the door. 5) Assemble back in reverse order.

Hi Guys, Do you know of a cheap place to buy auto electrical wire of various colours? There aren't many auto shops near where I live (Ja-Ela) that sell them and also doesn't offer a selection of colours. I also feel that there prices are a bit too high. Need these to wire my car alarm as the original wires are not long long enough to reach the location where I'm mounting it. Thanks in advance.

Well if the central locking works fine when you insert the key in the lock, then probably either the transmitter (in the Key) or the receiver (hidden somewhere inside the dash or kick panels, usually on the passenger side on most Nissans) is malfunctioning. Try with your spare key. if not, download the service manual for your car and follow instructions on that to find, check and replace the controller responsible for the function.

You mean a "Ratchet"?. If the sockets are intact, you can buy just the ratchet from Pettah "FOSE" market(Next to CTB stand). I bought one a couple of weeks back for 300/= (after bargaining). Most tool shops otoh insist that you buy a complete set. One of my friends bought a complete set (wratchet + sockets) for 1650/= from AC P**L in Sangaraja Mawatha (Col 14).

There are two places in Panchikawatta that I buy parts from. Will PM you the info.

Got it. Thanks buddy!

Can I too have his contact details pls? And how much did he charge you for the tune-up?

I've used a brand called INCOE that's imported by D*****s & S**s. didn't have any issue with it and replaced it recently with an Exide maintenance free battery with a 24 month warranty. Mine's an Auto so batteries wear down faster than a manual.

Despite the popularity of the Nissan March K11, there are currently no service manuals (workshop manual) for it available for free download on the Internet. The Haynes manual (http://www.haynes.com) are expensive, targeted mainly at the UK manufactured variant (Micra) with non JDM features like NATS and as per some K11 owners, not very informative. I found this manual on the Internet, Which seems to be very detailed but unfortunately it's in Russian. So I started the project of translating it. The procedure is very simple, Step 1) Convert the PDF pages in to individual images. Step 2) Convert the text to an editable format using OCR software that understands Russian. Step 3) Translate it to English using Google translate. Step 4) Using image editing software, replace the Russian text with English translations while maintaining the document layout. Step 5) Re-compile the pages in to a single PDF. Step 6) Post it on the Internet for everyone's benefit. I have already started on Step 4 and so far managed to translate the first 10 pages and the results are indeed, very promising. But there are over 350 pages and it would go a lot faster if a group of k11 enthusiasts chip-in to help me. I can send you the page images in PNG format along with the corresponding OCR text (in Russian) that I have proof read to make sure they are an exact match to what's on the page. What you have to do is to translate it and replace the text on the images with the grammatically correct English equivalent all the while mainitainig the original layout, and send each page back to me as and when you are done. SO, WHO'S WITH ME?

This is just a hunch, but check the fuse panel. Use this for reference Inspect the fuses classified under "IGN" such as fuel pump and injectors just to be sure one of them are not acting up. Better yet fuses are very cheap so why don't you just replace and see? Again this is just a hunch.

The engine could stop for two main reasons, either no fuel or no spark. If I were you, I would take the car to the agent to run a diagnostic before attempting any blind repairs. If an ailing sensor or other electrical component monitored by the ECU is causing this problem, the diagnostic codes should easily pinpoint it.

Nissan March K11 YoM: 2000 Engine Capacity: 998CC Transmission: Auto City Driving (With A/C): 10 kmpl Outstation (With A/C): 13-14 kmpl

Check the battery connector of the positive terminal (One with the Red plastic cover). You should see 3 wires connecting to it. inspect the two smaller wires from the connector all the way to the connector located next to the distributor. one of them feeds the ignition system (the other feeds certain accessories like the headlamps, hazards, etc). A similar thing happened to me when that particular wire shorted out. Try bypassing them with a piece of house hold wiring and see if that fixes the issue. BTW, if it does, be sure to replace the loom. You can easily find one from Delkanda or J***n L***a.