kush

Agreed UK regular is 95 and super 98 and most of the cars in UK is tuned for 98. Mine being the JDM is happy to run on 92. According to CPC (from a well informed reliable source) they purchase fuel from different sources that meets their requirements. So there could be certain additives on some of the stocks. Any also you could get crappy fuel whether it is 92 or 95. As a practice I pump only from few reliable stations for piece of mind knowing that your fuel is not mixed with "Bhumi Thel" or 95 with 92. On my Macan I'm compelled to use 95 (minimum requirement) instead of 98 (recommended). Additive is used every 5000km as recommended by the agent. All our family Japs whether JDM/ Domestic, Naturally aspirated/ Turbo/ Hybrid runs on 92 without any issues.

I have a Corolla Sport which has the same 8NR-FTS and it runs fine with 92 Octane. Which i believe is inline with Japanese Regular as specified for the Car.

Go for the Premio if you want no nonsense comfort. Even ground clearance Premio is better unless you get the CHR 4WD without body kit. Allions and Premios are very comfortable reliable cars that is why they are so popular here.

Remembered my weekly drives up and down Colombo - Nuwara Eliya with 4 people and a boot full of cloths. My CS1 had only 1.3L and a measly 90bhp. But the shift and clutch had perfect balance and you have to keep stirring shift keep the momentum through the corners and engine in peak torque (around 3-5K rpm). Did almost 120K in the car with only 2 front shocks replaced around 40K. Car was as good as new when I sold it and it gave many more trouble free motoring for the new owner. Sprited driving never hurts. You do more damage keeping the reves at 1500 in high gears trying to squeeze each ounce of petrol.

141, FD1, EX in that order. All three of them pretty reliable. Given the fact that these cars are over 10 years old expect few issues with suspension, rubber bushing, engine mounts, oil seals, sensors and electrics.

Her money and permits, me being beneficiary.

I had a EX and we still have a 141 in the family. Lancer handles little better in the corners than the 141 and is little bit economical. It has more wow factor due to wannabe EVO racers. Only gripe on the 141 is the basic interior and manual a/c. EX GLS had nicer seat materials and climate control.

Hear goes Interesting bits are too many to share Austin A40 Farina (Fathers) Renault 12 (Mothers) Morris Mareena (Fathers) VW Golf (my first) Toyota Sprinter CE100 (Mothers) Toyota Corolla II (Fathers) Toyota Caldina (my second) Nissan Sunny (Mothers) Lancer CS1 (my third) Nissan March (Wife’s) Lancer EX 2007 (Wife’s) Corolla 141 2007 (Mothers) Suzuki Swift 2008 (my fourth) Honda CRV 2013 (Wife’s) Honda FIT 2015 (my fifth) Nissan Leaf (my sixth) Kia Picanto (my seventh) Current Stock Porsche Macan (Wife’s) Suzuki Wagon R (my eighth) Corolla Sport (my ninth)

I would also suggest Corolla 141 and Mitsubishi Lancer EX which may be within your budget. Looking at your priorities Corolla 141 and FD1 will be better options followed by the Lancer and Mazda. If you can find a good Lancer EX GLS it would have more features than the Corolla and in line with the Mazda and Civic. Out the cars Corolla seems to have least number of issues after 10 years.

They will stop producing and selling ICE cars. When demand drop for petrol prices will either stabilize or come down. Taxation might come in to curtail use of ICE cars. ICE will remain for many more years until the current vehicles on the road go out of service. I don't see this happening in SL during my life time or at least fix enough to get behind the wheel to enjoy a drive.

Most of the cars in 2008 came with UV glasses in front only. Toyota was an exception. There will be UV printed in small letters in the glass if it has UV protection. If you are getting a tint get a good quality one through a reputed party. Price you pay will be worth as there will be no peeling off and visibility on rain and in dark are significantly different. I got 2 of may previous cars on 3M and did not have any issues. Only got the rear doors and rear glass as the tint on front was illegal. For the front windscreen suggest you get a reflective cover when you park in the sun. Much cheaper and effective in keeping the car cool.

Camry is from the bigger segment. Has loads of space in rear seats and boot than the Premio. It is significantly more comfortable due to better seats especially the rear once due to better leg room and thigh support. Drives and rides better due to better suspension set up and bigger engine. Similarly you can refer to C Class and E class or 3 Series and 5 Series and all of us know the differences.

Don't expect it to be cheap. Honda is a cheap car to maintain compared to a Euro. Believe me personal experience.

2017-18 Vezel RS vs 2013-14 CRV

I would go for the 2.0L for the extra oomph However majority of them at your price bracket would be hotel taxis with very high mileage Try to find one with private ownership with full service history (may be 1st owner)

if you have a budget to go for a RS sensing why don't you look at a CRV 2012-2018 Utterly reliable Only down side will be kmpl if you can live that

I have newer had issues finding 95 just that you have to plan your trip in advance and top up at correct stations. Liquid Molly is available in SL which should be ok Some vehicles can run on 92 if you find 95 is not available (shorter distance / no hard driving) refer your owners manual.

We have lots of Zombie brands now. Watches, Pianos and cars MG/ Bogward

Everybody keeps predicting the vehicle prices to come down. It might not materialize after all as the previous idiotic tax structure favored high value cars due to taxing based on CC This is how we ended up will many Audis/ BMWs/ Mercs not to mention the exotics. In 2007 Price of a Allion was Rs. 7.2 Mn. prior to issuing permits and messing up the market. Most likely there will be a new duty structure when the restriction is taken out may be with the new budget.

Good for you. I would look at Honda S660 as well

None of them came as far as i know. May be the Evo 10 and the 2.0L Galent Fortis

It is hardly visible. I would keep to as it is. You could get a paint repair kit and do a DIY if it bothers too much. In SL you cant avoid these types of scratches and creases

First point you should insure your vehicle for the current market value. If you bought the vehicle for Rs. 2.3 Mn. and now the current market price of the vehicle is Rs. 3.0 Mn. most likely your vehicle may be worth some where in between. Danger in under insuring is you may get only part of the claim proportioned according to you (sum insured / Market price)

By the way most of the modern turbos have inbuilt protection. They do not shut down if until the engine settle at idling speed for few seconds. I have noticed this in the Macan, some times it runs the engine for about 5-10 seconds. Not noticed in the Toyota though. Any way I do a relax drive for about 200m to let the engine settle prior to switch off.

Get in to the vehicle and start the engine immediately. By the time you get your seat belt done, get in to gear and release the parking brake it will be 10-15 seconds enough time to oil to start working. Any way current multi-grade oils take care of cold starts. I would recommend to keep the revs below 2-3K for the initial 5-6 km or 5-6 minutes roughly the time taken for the engine to come up to optimum temperature. At lower temperatures gaps between the different metal parts could lead to premature ware if stressed too soon. In SL context we hardly go beyond 60-75% of the rev-range in normal driving.