Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Nozozo

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. posting here after long time. I ran 2019 Honda civic sedan EX 1.0 for about 700 kms, 40% highway, 60% in Colombo traffic. It rated 8.8/100Km, little above 11Km/L. This is with ECO off. Pulling is ok, should rev above 2000 rpm [2400-2600] for rapid pickup. Only issue so far is rear sub whopper's excessive vibration for bass of certain music.
  2. Nozozo

    Idle Rpm Drops

    Recommend places to buy 5A FE ecu, one of my frd presently using 4A in his Marino since he had this iden issue with the original ecu, we are looking for the right one now [ 5AFE] thanks
  3. cant believe this smart lifetime warranty for oil. Run your cvt car start stop move on D, if any vibration, you have a prob in the box. And when you floor the paddle, if there's a big delay or kind of a slipping, your belt has got a problem, CVT supposed to be more responsive. I am yet to know nissan or suzuki boxes, but back in 2005-6, honda's ATF-z1 didnt work in SL since tropical conditions, and had to change to a Nippon cvt oil. 20-30 k was the change interval.
  4. Nozozo

    Buy A Economical Car

    Toyota Yaris ! ?, One I know travels over 100 km daily from yakkala to colombo, says it does more than 12km/l. Your budjet matters someone to give a sugestion
  5. New corolla's permit version is a basic car. I went on by information in here http://www.toyota.lk/corolla_features.htm, when we discussed about the best fit for one of my friend's permit, But I was wrong.
  6. sanjev, I have driven both models. Currently I daily drive a new city. As I know city/fit aria has been out from 2003, so you get different YOM's in these two cars. N16 is more comfortable than city on a bumpy road, and more stable at corners. Fit aria should give a better FC than N16 because of the cvt tranny. Good N16 may give 8/9 km/l, while fit aria gives 10/11 km/l for urban rides, people claim more but I doubt. I just guess maintenance cost of Fit aria could be little higher than N16. It's really hard to compare more than this. finally all depends on your personal taste. I suggest you do a test drive about 5 kms then you'll understand.
  7. I have been using 95 with fully synthetic (mob*l) from 2-1/2 years. 6 months milage comes to about 7000 ~ 8000 kms. I do oil change in 5~ 6 months, never gone over 6 months. I guess if people want to use it for 10 or 15K irrespective of the time, may get problems. Can't use the same oil for 1 year until the milage is done ! I did a reasonable search on the net to prove your point, no information is available.
  8. If I heard the LBR right, car prices may go up in 17% to 30% depending on the engine capacity. Awaiting Gummybr's information .....thanks
  9. This is what the user manual says, D- for normal driving S- for better acceleration, increased engine braking, use S when you are going down a steep hill, or in stop-and -go driving. L- to get more power when climbing, and for maximum engine braking when going down steep hills. Personal note: Do not shift to S or L while your engine rpm is higher, that may ruin the CVT belt. I shift to S when I want a quick overtake, but I shift the lever before I floor the paddle. When you go start-and-stop in D, the car should move forward when you release the brake unless the car is loaded with people, or in a slight up hill. In some cars, there's a slight delay, that's the performance of your start clutch Cheers !
  10. well said 'Don' Ruwan, FYI: I only know about hondata (http://www.hondata.net) for these kind of modifications. But they do not support fit or jazz (http://www.hondata.com/wizard/wiz_start.html). If you request info from citizen or teamcity forum, they may give you some info. But I guess, getting done those things in SL may be nearly impossible to Fit/Aria by a professional. I belive you can get the max out of your car when you drive on 'S' or by using triptronic effectively. That's the max for the amount of money you spent. My city is still in stock condition, no modifications done, not at least a CAI except for the stock tires which gave lot of noice. I did a resetting of ECU because mine was giving bad FC after one years of usage, but at agent's console.
  11. Hi ruwan, I guess you refer a thing like resetting ECU in the latter part of your second para. This can work both ways, sometimes to improve FC and other times to give bad FC. If you are using a second hand car, it takes some time for the ECU logics to adopt with your right leg behaviour from the earlier saved values. by resetting it, you leave a grace period for it to learn your driving pattern from a preset default values. During this period FC may be higher, but can stabilize after. I am also in the learning track what really happens when an ECU is reset in a car having a CVT tranny. I guess CVT shifting(countinous displacement of pullys) memory in the ECU should also get reset and it again gradually learns from a default values. But some say we have to calibrate the CVT tranny. (there's a manual method can be found even in Vtec.net). I could not still find any statement from Honda engineers about CVT calibrations. If you ask CVT calibration things from stafford, they'll ask you in return from where do you hear these stuff. They've never heard about CVT calibrations. I have done my ECU reset via the computer console at stafford once. FC was higher for the first tank, but from the second it improved almost 1km/l
  12. Ruwan, you should not see any angular displacement in the fuel meter for that distance. Are you equipped with any electronic gadjet to measure that figure ? or if you refilled after your trip (should be almost 1 litre), this figure is not accurate ! FYI: do not try to measure fuel consumption by half tank mark without knowing the amount of litres to refill. Full tank to half, gauge displacement is slow, but in half to alarm light, it's fast. It's not something to do with amount of fuel in the tank but may be because of nature of the gauge installed in aria/city or shape of the tank. So you will get a reasonable figure if you calculate it by full tank or by refilling number of litres after reasonable Km's. I would say atleast more than 100Km. I have heard, this car has shown FC above 20km/l, under "test conditions" in hundreds of km long highways in thailand. you can see more cruising figures in citizen forum, I guess in singapore, the best figure is 17Km/l in highways.
  13. http://www.cityzen.sg/ above link is a good resource for ruwan. I drive a city idsi since mid 2005, but an indian assembled, without triptronic. But aria and city (indian) share most of key components. Take a good care about the CVT box, cvt fliud change should be in about 30K intervals or earlier, not 40K or 50 K in our climate conditions. I still get your fuel consumption figures for long distances even at 40k in trip meter. But in ultra urban colombo, it's 10~11km/l . I did not get a good comfort until I switched to bridgestone turanza (japaneese) tires. may be b'cos indian built quality. good luck with aria ! (posted here after long time !!)
  14. hope this will also be helpful in addition to the previous post. had a similar prob in one of my friends car. Open your hood, start and let somebody to shift P to D while pressing the brake, inspect is there any excessive movement (swing) in your engine. My frnd sorted out it by replacing engine mounts. not sure it may not be in your case. check weather you get the same jerk when you push brakes to a stop and release. if so, may be something to do with your gearbox.
  15. http://forum.notebookreview.com/ some useful information is there for a beginer !
  • Create New...