Shock

I know 406 parts are readily available in punchi some even deal recondition parts as well. Expensive than equivalent Jap vehicle parts though..

There are a few shops specializing in Pug parts maybe you can pay a visit to Punchi and have alook around, Those parts aren't cheap though and you may end up with Chinese or Indian parts any way...:-)

Thats good to hear...So route the google mapped out is correct i guess...

Hi, I'm planing to travel to Katharagama oner the weekend with family. We are starting the journey from Pannipitiya. I want to get to Tissamaharama where we'll be staying over night. Google has mapped out this route. Pannipitiya --> Ratnapura --> Palmadulla --> Angunokalapalassa --> Tissamaharama Has anybody taken this road? Hows the road condition? Will I need a 4x4? :-) Or do I need to turn from Palmadulla on to the A4 as marked on the map and go through wellawaya on to the A2? Uploaded with ImageShack.us Thanks

I used a 406 D8 Diesel for about an year. The car was generally good. Good handling, comfortable and the overall interior quality was very good. But had lot of reliability issues with it. My one had the XUD09TE engine I believe. About the parts my experience is some shops that specializes in Peugeot and Citroen parts sell counterfeit parts for premium prices. I visited two or three dealers and was faced with the same problem. Of course I'm not saying every body does this but don't be sure that your safe just because the dealer specializes in the brand or because your paying a premium for the part. So the problems I faced was this troubled started with the Auxiliary drive belt failing spectacularly due to a broken damper spring. The when I contacted the seller he said that the same damper and the adjusting pulley had been change before he sold the car because of a loud noise coming from the auxiliary drive belt. So I bought the 2 adjusted pulleys, the drive belt and the damping spring from Punchi and went to one of the Peugeot repair guys in palawaththa and got him to check that there are no inherent problems with the alignment etc and then fixed everything. It was fine for about a week or so and then I heard the noise the guy who sold me the car described. Found out again that it was a problem with the damper. Had to replace it again (around RS9000). Again it ran ok for about a month. But one day when I was coming back from work near palawaththa area the car suddenly stopped in the middle of the road in traffic. Tried to get it started again but wouldn't. It tried to start but splatted and stopped few times. I managed to push it to a side with some passer by's help. Upon inspection I saw that a strip of the auxiliary belt (inner side) was missing! I couldn't locate the missign piece. I waited for some time to let the engine coll a little bit and (with hind sight very VERY FOOLISHLY) tried to start again. Thats when the Sh#t really hit the fan. There was a very sickening mechanical clatter and the engine seized..... Later and after some days and rupees at the garage I found out where that missing piece of the Aux belt had gotten to. It has stripped off and gotten logged in the bottom drive pulley of the timing belt. The engine had initially stopped (I was sitting idling in traffic) because the diesel pump timing had been put off as the timing belt had slipped may be two or three teeth. But I guess at this stage valve timing was not off by so much as to cause a catastrophe. That happened when I tried to get it started after waiting for a while. As to the total damage....The Cam shaft was broken in two, One of the Cam shaft bearings broken clean off. No valve damage, no piston damage. I rebuilt the head with new parts and replaced timing belt and the adjusters etc. Also again replaced the Aux belt and its gear as well. As to the belt I decided to go for a Japanese belt with the same specs. After this adventure though the car was good was another 6 months (during which time I did about 13k-15k km) until I sold it on. I had a slight increase in power and fuel consumption prob cos of the head rebuild. On further research I found out that this (aux belt fragments slipping in to the timing belt) is some what common problem for Peugeot( could be only this engine) and apparently for Land rover freelander (rover engine)(not sure. second hand info) as well. There were few mentions of similar problems in other Peugeot fan clubs as well. (www.406oc.co.uk I believe). This whole thing cost me around 100k... Also I learnt that Cam shafts and their bearing are actually designed to break on impact (at least on these vehicles) to prevent further damage. So guys look out for fake (sub quality) parts for European models as well. These are apparently coming from India and China.

I agree since the batteries are in series, the system amperage would be that of the lower battery. I also want to mention that the figures 90 and 70 on the batteries is not a direct measure of the current the battery can supply. 90Amp/h is a measure of the energy capacity of the battery. I feel this is a some what miss understood rating in batteries. During cranking the starter motor will draw a few hundreds of amps depending of the vehicle. If you want to get at the capability of the battery in this regard you'll have to check its CCA - Cold Cranking Amps and HCA - Hot Cranking Amps figures. And if you want to get a proper idea of the energy capacity you can use its RCM - Reserve capacity minutes Wikipedea has the exact definitions here ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Anyway these figures can vary from one 90Amp/h battery to another 90Amp/h battery as well. But this is usually not by a critical amount. That's why when you replace your battery with a one with the same Amp/Hour rating, you're usually ok. These may be important if you want to do any mods for example to the vehicle. Hope this helps @ Nishan.dj After starting if the battery terminal voltage rises to around 26V - 28V your can be pretty sure that your batteries are being charged. I also suggest to check the battery terminal voltage after turning on all the electrical accessories such as headlights, AC, signal lights stereo etc. If the voltage in the above range or at least above the battery terminal voltage when the engine is switched off you can be pretty sure that the alternator is providing the required current as well. But this of course doesn't guarantee that your alternator is overloaded of course....

Thanks Sylvi for your response. We are in Depanama right now. Do you know any body who can do the repair close by? Also if the kits are available where can I buy them?

I'm thinking of fixing something like this to a corolla EE96 with the 1.3L 2E engine. I know these engines came with electronic ignition. But mine has contact points. Either it was converted to contact points cos the electronics unit failed or some came with the contact points.... The problem is the existing point mounting plate (it has vacuum advance mechanism) and the cam has worn so that the points gap and the exact point they open cannot be set properly. Also the timing will also vary slightly as the cam rotates. I do have the option of sourcing the original unit (has to be the whole thing the housing and all as the existing one is different) but I was told finding one would be difficult and would cost around 15k. Other option is to go for something like this conversion kit I have mentioned which should give the same sort of benefits. Plus it would be a easy fix and may cost less as well (hopefully).

Hi guys, Are electronic ignition conversion kits similar to these available in Sri Lanka? http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/08/ESpark/ Also if available how do you select the correct one...prob take the points set to the dealer? Thanks

:lol:

not for any thing on hybrids actually looking for some information on vaccume system on toyota cars (older ones with carbs especially)....the garage has messed up mine. Now it has got a mess of tube going nowhere... decided to put it right... acually found some of the stuff i was looking for on the site i mentioned

Hi, I found these documents when I was searching some thing completely different.... Hybrid01 Hybrid System Overview.pdf Hybrid02 Hybrid System Operation.pdf Hybrid03 High-Voltage battery.pdf Hybrid04 Engine.pdf Hybrid05 Chassis.pdf Hybrid06 Body Electrical.pdf Hybrid07 Appendix.pdf Loads more @ this site www.autoshop101.com you'll have to cross check accuracy and validity for newer models of course...

Thanks man As to messing around with it...well...it has already gone through some mods and there's no guarantee that those were done exactly to specifications but i totally agree with some expert opinion...kinda the reason why I'm here On the issue of body roll there is some but not too much. I guess SWB also helps and it was supricingly well behaved on a trip to kandy on the twisty bits. Only the ride is the problem my feeling is it fails to absorb the undulations and pot holes on the road (mainly on the rear) making it unstable at speed on rough roads. Also I'll have to increase the height since the front has more lift than the back...

Just ran into this... http://www.blessedarethefew.com/JulesLCbuild.htm

I thought the other way around....but anyways, in my case I think the ride is bit too uncomfortable and bit unstable at speed on bumpy roads so I wouldn't mind a bit softer ride. Had a look under the vehicle and also compared my rear coil springs with that of a land cruiser sahara (4.2L diesel). My ones are definitely thicker and therefore probably harder. Which I believe is causing the bumpy ride. So my plan is to take the coil spring to panchikawaththa and look for a thinner coil with a little bit more height (currently its a bit lower on the rear than the front). I'm going the leave the shocks for now and see how it goes... Any ideas???