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nana0665 last won the day on April 7 2013

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  1. Thanks for the replies. Helpful. Our diesel quality is very poor. Government should do something like the interstitial they take on emission control. Most of the vehicles will perform better if diesel quality is better. It's a win win for owners and environment.
  2. Hi members Can i get some idea about where I can find reasonably good quality super diesel that is ok for a Toyota common rail engine (1kd ftv) Hoping some advice here can save the life of injectors and DPF filter. Regards Nana
  3. Thanks, got it fixed. Found a guy called Honda Upul down Athurugiriya area. He did the job.
  4. Hi my Honda civic 2000 model ES1 needs a replacement on its EPS control box. It's a nightmare to find the matching part. Same shape box is available. Numbers are different. Can someone help me find the part or interpret the numbers on the part. At the moment it a real wild goose chase.
  5. Sorry a typo 800ML p/m. 7 plates or 9 depending on situation. (Good question) As for the Kottawa Challenge by some members - I will pass. Don't want to waste my energy proving the case to anyone because it is not the intention on the post, which occasionally becomes the wrong end of the stick to some members. I have different things to do... Does not interest me.
  6. Lovely. This discussion is now exciting me. I will verify some of the discussion threads. Postings on combustion timing, alternators and sensors are very good. These are the items to look out. Specifics on the 1KZ TE engine, which is what I modified. The electronic part is only the pump pressure that ATTEMPTS to maintain an even lean supply throughout the range. It is not a fully blown EFI system like a common rail injection system. Therefore this modification does not complicate sensors. There are many posts on this. one good post is http://www.toyotadiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?10448-1KZ-TE-tuning-discussion. The engine responds to the HHO. RPM picks up for about 2 hours and the knob drops in back to about 700 on idle and corrects the reading mismatch. This is a very primitive EFI, bottom line. On the sensors,,, EFI engines can take in HHO. Some shiny 5 series BMs have already got the taste of HHO in Europe. In such a scenario the sensor needs a circuit bypass depending on narrow band or wide band mode of the sensor. These can be verified on meter readings. However, I also noted less gains than on older engines with sensors on the table to play. A VOLO chip can further boost a sensor/EFI engine. I consider this a hassle to modify at the moment. This is the same reason I mentioned 5-7 years old and beyond on my first post. On alternators, the regulation of power is correct. This is what keeps the power balanced without overcharging or under charging the system. The variable supply is managed in a combination of within the alternator and outside the alternator. The circuit within in nicely drawn on this link. http://alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm The regulator can adopt to the sensor. When the threshold breaks some engines with step up motors rev up the idle. This does not happen in majority of the vehicles I have done this test when someone attempts to take 10-15 Amps off a system. Some people ask what the R&D teams have been doing… This is a modification left to users. Most of our vehicles did not comes with LPG options, Turbo Timers, Etc Etc did they? There are no organized industries to pump a small industry based electrolyte mixture other than from a guy like Sarath I mentioned. After sharing this knowledge he seems to have picked up well. I was convinced that he got the optimum HHO unit which throws out 800+ Ltrs per minute from 10-13 amps without modulators. This is adequate for a lean mixture of HHO:Air:Fuel. HHO is simply a fuel addictive. Overall I feel this is a worth modification on engines.
  7. Hi members Having little knowledge and commenting on a topic like this is not helping anyone. It is not very professional if one cannot justify the depth. Sylvi's comments are good. Seems he knows the subject well. Answer to his question on the alternator: How do you know whether the gas conversion does not add more load on fuel burn - Yes we have to do an AMP load test while the engine is on idle with all electronics on full blow. Majority of the engines with over 1300CC pass this because the idle is set at an overburn position to maintain a certain balance. Most alternators are also very efficient and there is a constant oversupply even at idle, which gets grounded if it is not used. On engines that come without the step up motor, this test will fail if there is not enough amps. If it is a 3 wheeler - I expect problems such as the battery dying over time. I do not want to comment about these paper articles because it has run into some controversy already. Certainly, what I have explained here will not stop the need to have petrol or diesel. I am not talking about a system that runs for miles with only water. Did I mention it anywhere? Chill out here before jumping. I did this on my own 1Kz Prado and shared results because I am an enthusiast and I like others to benefit if they WISH. Most of my posts go on Toyota, Lexus and Mercedes forums but I thought Sri Lankans can benefit if some reach Auto Lanka. Forums are places for members to post educative topics. I am not a guy who will post "I fixed a blue pair of LED park lights - Have a look, very nice" type of posts. Those who want to take topics further can take their own cause of action. My next topic was about making bio diesel at home. Reading some feedback on this post made me wonder whether it is worth doing it.
  8. Hi All I did not realise this topic catching lot of attention. Some people think this is great,.. add some water and off we go in the car. This is not that imaginary as we feel. The system generates HHO and feeds the air intake and a combustion adhesive. Don't think of running without fossil fuel. It can only be done by a fuel cell. We will have these in road running versions in 2015 or so. But for those old engines this modification will help by having less thirst of petrol or diesel to run the same distance. Wikipedia has given a good coverage. It is not easy as the pictures say. Only issue I saw was the conversion energy to output energy. This requires a validation. Most vehicles produce huge amount of AMPS on the alternator and what is not used is killed back to the earth. What this unit does is tap into such a source and produces HHO to make a 20-30% efficiency, which is wasted anyway. What they have not mentioned enough is safety. Lot of people try doing this at home and fail or mess the electrical system of the car. HHO is a gas which needs to be produced when needed. No storing. Regards Nana
  9. Note by the moderator : This post contains information neither endorsed nor supported by the Autolanka community. Readers are advised to read the entire thread and form their own conclusions. Hi everyone This is my second post on the forum. I think this post will help a lot of people to reduce their fuel bill on petrol and diesel vehicles. Going forward we will have lot of vehicles but empty tanks. I have been doing some R&D on engine efficiency and cleaner exhaust gazes for some years and decided to do an engine modification on my Prado to get some extra power and a full burn. For non-technical members it is simply modifying the air intake of the engine at a safer place to feed in HHO as a gas instead of normal air we breathe which is not 100% accounting to a full burn inside the combustion chamber. HHO is a combustion rich gas but the generation mechanism should be done with absolute safety precautions out of water. Luckily I have a friend of mine who has a Garage (Unfortunately in Gampaha, which is a bit far away) and he was nice enough to listen to me (instead of ignoring me as if I have gone crazy) and comply with all the safety precautions and install the unit. Some pictures are attached for enthusiasts. Results: Increased fuel consumption by 20-25% (Mix of city and long distance). I refill a full tank earlier around 360KM range. Now it is 440-450KM range. Increase of power. I can feel it in the depth of low end torch in the Engine which keeps going. Reduced carbon emissions to a good as new engine. This is a 1999 Prado. Less vibration on engine Quick start when you crank the engine Everyone should not jump into this modification. It is a NO for vehicles with warranty by agents (Those brand new shiny vehicles are not lucky enough to have this because they will say “You have modified the engine and now we are not responsible!!!”) So save it for a later date. This is good for engines about 5-7 years and beyond. Vehicles of this age are having different relationships between the owners and the vehicle as such a bit of tweaking will not hurt any feelings J. There is absolutely no harm in doing this modification because it is done outside the whole system. Safety is first in this installation. Is this a real innovation which I should patent? Well absolutely no, because lot of people know about this but no one cares about the safety. Instead I though everyone interested should benefit from this because it helps going green and hugging trees a little. Regards Nana
  10. Certainly Xenomorph on an even acceleration you can take the engine to a burn once in a while. Not a 1 second to the floor on a road driven engine. Certainly not on an eco test. Even a common rail engine will throw smoke for about a second on a floor rampage because the electronic injection system takes about 1/2 second to respond.
  11. Hi Everyone Recently I went though some interesting details while doing an ECO test. The test passed but I thought everyone should know the details. This applies to both diesel and petrol vehicles. 1. My vehicle has very low emission standards after an overhaul 20,000KMs ago, 1kz-te turbo diesel engine maintained by Toyota and the test was done soon after a service. 2. The test failed when the officer stepped on the engine and reved it over 5000RPM. Simply the guy stepped on the accelerator in 1 second (I timed it). The engine smoked all 3 times because it failed to calibrate intake and output ratios of diesel with the turbo lagging after 1 second rampage to the floor. it was always an under burn because the engine was trying to respond to an overfed intake, By the time the equilibrium was found the test was on the last last few seconds. Therefore the average test reading failed. 3;. Having some knowledge on the subject matter, I started arguing on the test result and the way it was performed. I claimed that the person incharge was not trained on fundamentals. Despite my option to take the test within another 60 days after so many repairs listed to overcome the problem, I opted to do the test again in 30 minutes after the next person in line. The test passed, the engine had fraction of emissions, almost equal to a common rail direct injection engine. 4. I did not go on the easy way of throwing money at the problem of influencing the officers. What happened here? Let me explain. 1. An engine cannot respond to an immediate floor level acceleration in 1 second. The test says - take it over 3500-4000RPM in 3 seconds. What happens is, there is a notice on the computer instructing "ACCELERATE" and the guy ramps to the floor. Engine reaches the red zone of the RPM counter. My 2nd test was done between 3500-4500RPM with proper acceleration. 2. The engine that runs on 5000-7000RPM blows all the smoke dust that is accumulated inside the silencer over 1 year. We NEVER rev engines over 4000RPM on normal running. Not even on an up climb. It is only on an occasional quick deathly overtake and even that I doubt over 5000RPM. The testing should NEVER force an engine to this range. Any engine manufacturer has a warning on red zone RPMS that will definitely damage the engine. The simple colour indicating the RED zone of RPM is to avoid going there. 3. They do the test in this crazy way to reject the engines because there is pressure from the authority (RMV) to stop the smoking. RMV has started penalizing the test officers for passing tests of those engines that are later smoking on the road. This is now going in the typical Sri Lankan viscous cycle of hitting the consumers. Consumers spend over Rs5000-10,000/= to temporarily clean up injectors and replace air cleaners. Some even wash the silencer inside. However the motive behind 1 second floor acceleration is to play safe and fail the engines to avoid penalties by officers conducting the tests. Even if RMV catches on the road the records will indicate that it was failed once. One other reason to rev up is, the actual RPM and the echo based RPM reading on the computer is showing a difference to the lower side. Therefore they floor it to compensate the gap.Instead of doing all this unprofessional over protective conduct of tests, what they really should have is a good software that takes the tester through a good acceleration cycle with a graphical illustration. If the government is so keen on this and care about the environment they should CERTIFY this software and regulate proper usage. if we do not get this properly established like in other countries, lot of innocent people who are not conversant on the detail are going to spend a lot of money when they are already finding it difficult to make ends mean. My polite request - Share is with many people as possible. My intention of writing this is for someone to get this forwarded with proper influence to the Minister of Transport and Commissioner of RMV. For those who go and get into this sad pit, know your rights, show the vehicle manufacturers manual, argue, demand your rights as consumers but be genuine with emissions. We have to protect the world for our younger generation. If your engine is bad get it fixed. Regards Nana
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