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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Once upon a time, there was a guy named <insert your favourite name here> His child was suffering from fever. He took the child to a gynaecologist, because the gynaecologist charged less than a physician. The gynaecologist also tried his best to examine the child, took the money and finally said, you should take the child to a physician, because he has a newer digital thermometer than me. Now <insert your favourite name here> is wondering whether to buy the latest thermometer from aliexpress and asking his neighbours what's causing the fever.
  2. 3 points
    The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position. The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family . The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats - and the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then. The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot. There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery. I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel. Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers. This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim. With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch. The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper button on an EX-trim car. There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum. There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.
  3. 2 points
    Here's a write up on my Daily Driver - the new Civic 1 Litre Turbo - I've so far done just a bit over 1500 Km's and since the engine was new didn't really push it to the max and I have not yet been able to do a really long trip or a drive uphill to BUT I will continue to update the blog based on the experiences as well as services etc. For a start I will touch the basics as well as all the cosmetic stuff and then get into the overall driving experience and later on the services etc. There is also a dedicated thread in the forum that is quite informative. But I hope this blog will also prove useful to someone. First of all the basics.... In a nutshell the 2017 Civic is the 10th generation in the line up. The particular model I have, and is getting popular in SL goes under the model code FK6 and has a P10A2 engine which has a measly 988cc but is turbocharged. The car is made in the UK (at Honda's Swindon Plant). I have heard that the agents now bring it down as well. (6.2M for the SR) There are 3 grades for the 1L turbocharged civic. SE, SR and the EX. The SE is the most basic model with the EX being the highest (the Tech pack is a further extension of the EX) There is roughly a 5,000 GBP (~ 1 Mil LKR) price difference between the SE and the EX. The SR on the other hand sits comfortably in the middle - it does not have stuff like adaptive damper system that comes on the EX. The Honda UK website lists down the differences of each grade under a section called 'Build your Honda' or something. If you're interested do have a look. There are 7 colors available and the Rallye Red is the standard . Every other color will cost around 500 GBP more . There is also the "Orange Line Pack" - which is basically an accessory kit that adds a touch of orange into everything - I've seen a few such cars in car sales in SL. Though I initially contemplated Sonic Grey, ended up with a Polished Metal Metallic specimen. With the 2017 Budget a new tax structure was introduced and under the engine capacity based taxation you'd be paying 17.5 m in taxes (1,754,976 LKR to be precise) for a brand new car with reasonable creature comforts and a bunch of bells and whistles which costs something between 4-5 mill based on the grade ( see above ) First Impressions For me the new Civic hatch looks like someone started designing and spent too much time doing a good job with the front and then ran out of time to design the posterior and hastily put an end to it. This explains the rather weird looking behind. The Sedan version I have to admit looks better. There's also waay too much plastic in the rear so much so that it looks like a joint venture between Honda and Arpico. There's a bit of aggressive styling at the front. The car is quite wide and it has a solid ground hugging look to it. As for the supposed vents you see at the front and the back - well those are fake. They're simply pieces of plastic made to look like vents. And yes it does have fog lights. I like the factory fitted black 17" alloys. Note the SE comes with 16" Alloys as opposed to the 17" found in the SR. Being a brand new car it came with a humongous bible-like user manual (thankfully in English) - along with the wheel lock nut as well as the tool kit and the tire repair kit (glue and the inflator which by now we are used to) If any of you intend to buy one from a regular car sale make sure they give you your wheel lock nut.
  4. 2 points
    The car as it may seem right now.... Broken and Shiz.. About to get a new life... Tinkering Done!
  5. 2 points
    Hello All, It’s a slow day at work, thought I’ll post a few pics of my own car to keep the E30 spirit going.. The day we bought her home a bit over 2 years ago….. Bone stock, no upgrades no modifications.. About 95% of things working as it should, few leaks here and there, lumpy idle, paint job looks better in pics. Actually, it had a couple of upgrades: A tuned chip to run on 98 octane with the rev limiter increased to 7500 – which was great. Then a cone filter instead of the brilliantly designed factory air-box – a useless addition. These are more recent. Only the Racing Dynamic wheels are visibly different, but many.. many.. bits are either replaced or improved by now…
  6. 1 point
    Nice car and nice write up. Post some pics after the ceramic coating.
  7. 1 point
    This is what car buyers exactly want👍Awesome mate!!Waiting for the next part😃😃😃
  8. 1 point
    I am so happy for giving ya honest opinion guys.It's wonderful to see that many of you guys putting efforts to type all of those huge feedback for someone that you really dont know.... after reading all the comments, I just realised that this game is all about ego as I work in a managerial position of a multinational company and downgrading is like losing to your ex's new boyfriend on highway.lol
  9. 1 point
    Ok. One of my friend dealing with old corollas may able to help you. I will meet him this weekend and update you. 🙂
  10. 1 point
    Nice review. Have the same colour in EX Tech trim. One of the better colours for this car for sure. Waiting for more updates!
  11. 1 point
    @ange88 Buddy not to be rude or anything, but this IS the definition of ego. This is something most Sri Lankans don't understand, given how we are a society that is obsessed on keeping up with the Pereras, but please remember that you are not your car/job/school etc. Your opinion of yourself should not be defined by things like this, and don't let your self esteem suffer like that. And also, why look at this as a downgrade? If you look at the big picture, you started with a motor bike true, but today you are well on your way to home ownership. Back then, you didn't have a house of your own right? But now you do. To me, that is growth and an improvement in your situation. If you have to stick with a smaller/older car to achieve that dream, is there really anything wrong with that? I don't think so. So don't be so harsh on yourself. Cheer up! About your car choices, remember that your financial situation is your biggest constraint. Second, keep in mind that in general the second hand car market in Sri Lanka is like opening a can of worms. Avoid if possible, and buyer beware! (Basically, you have to be really really careful and patient to get a good deal). In that context, I would also agree with what the others have said here about going for the Vitz. Second hand hybrids in SL, especially the Aquas currently on the market, have all been used very harshly/or could be due for somemajor repair like battery upgrades and things like that, which is not something you want on your hands right now. Coming from a economic and finance background myself, let me tell you one more thing. You might be better off focusing on aggressively settling your debts. Not only will it help you sleep better, that is also the fastest and best way for you to pave the way to upgrade to a bigger, better car later on. The interest costs can kill you, especially in this environment, where interest rates on loan will start moving upwards. Your bank won't tell you this, but a 1% adjustment can make a HUGE difference (I can prove this to you mathematically). Therefore, do consider the option of selling the 121 and going for something like an Elite, or kei car like the Wagon R, which should lower your running costs, and also won't add to your already high debt load, thus reducing the financial breathing space you have. The amount you save, you can divert towards paying down your debts or saving for a rainy day. I have a friend who did exactly this, and he is glad he did it. And finally, there's something else. It's very easy for all of us sitting on the other side to give advice, but when it comes to something like this, remember that this is Sri Lanka (i.e. Keeping Up With Perera syndrome). Therefore, even if you take the prudent way of downgrading to a more economical car, you decision will be vetoed by your wife/mother in law/neighbour/ Albert Uncle in London etc. Especially your wife, if you are married. First have these tough conversations and then decide for yourself
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Would you like to explain why? coz, here i'm an owner of a Mazda 323 for a decade which is truly worth every penny that was invested on it and two of my colleagues followed me and purchased an Axela and a 3 a year after my purchase and still holding on to them for nearly 9 years. Still no concerns for us to get rid of them though.. Happy owners all the way. for the first time i'm hearing a negative comment on a Mazda 3 here actually 😊
  14. 1 point
    we had a couple of mazda 323's (1999/2000) in our office - and they just kept running and running ( services are done routinely) they held up really well by the time they had done well over 300,000 km.
  15. 1 point
    i have been using a 323 (YOM 2000 ,ZM-DE engine, MT) for 11 years (from 2007). still it is my primary car.
  16. 1 point
    Hyundai Tucson or santa fe Mitsubishi Outlander / Montero Suzuki Grand vitara Toyota Rav4 Nissan X-trail
  17. 1 point
    Keep the money in the bank and get a good rental when you visit, it will be cheaper than your maintenance and insurance.
  18. 1 point
    I usually go to To***a La***a Kurunegala for all the tune ups and scans. First of all do a full checkup at there. There is a mechanic in the toyota side,who is thin and wears specs, who did an excellent job. Most probably your car should have done well over 100,000-120,000km or even closer to 200,000km if it was bought from an unknown buyer with no records.Replacements like shock absorbers,steering rack are most likely to exist on any car of the same age,and don’t do replacements from there,as it will cost you a fortune.If money is not a problem or you don’t have any trustworthy mechanic, it’s the safest choice.But places like that will always try to replace the whole part instead of repairing.For all replacements I visit a well known mechanic who does a good job to well known customers.But I’m from Kegalle therefore I have no idea about good mechanics in Kurunegala area.But I know few bad garages in Kurunegala area and P.M me if you need further details.Get details from you friends,relations and neighbours about garages,since Kurunegala is a town filled with garages, definietly you’ll find a good place.But before any of that,make sure to do a full scan and checkup from Toy Lan. For the prices, I did a full tune up,changed spark plugs,petrol filter(which is located inside the fuel tank) and engine seals together with the injector cleaning.It costed me 30,000.But your Allion has iridium spark plugs which can cost you about 15,000-20,000 to replace.Mine has copper plugs and it cost me only 4,000.The petrol filter cost about 9,000. My advice is to set aside atleast 100,000 for the running repairs since it has no records.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Hey man I was running that E30 1989 E30 that I had for the last 8 years BMW M30B35 swap - 3.5 liter straight six with Haltech management and a custom tune, coupled with the original 5 speed Getrag manual, LSD, fully rebuilt chassis and body from ground up, and most importantly, launch control :D!
  21. 1 point
    I have been using the Capacitor version of Viafo A119 and it's a very solid product. Night time video clarity is superior compared to everything I have come across. Only an expensive (Rs 25,000/=) Transcend unit of one of my friends came close the quality. So I think Viafo 1119 is the best budget cam out there. Got it from ebay for around Rs 12,000/=. Came with all the accessories necessary for install
  22. 1 point
    Guys, If you are going ahead with proper repair as recommended in recall notice ( i.e. Option 3 ), these are the parts that you need to replace. Honda has packaged it now under part number "06131-RBJ-306". Refer image attached. Pkg includes 1 Piston +1 Piston Ring +1 Piston Pin. You need 4 sets of above. Thanks.
  23. 1 point
    This thread has been discussed last year. By the way G11 is same as nze 260 Allion/Premio but more comfortable. more spacious and more reliable than NZE 260. Please don't rely on toyotaholics kmpl figures, according to them NZE260 does 14kmpl+ (under toyota vios thread, when vios was selling like hot cakes everyone said car does 12kmpl but now its dropped to 8kmpl). However G11 does 8-9kmpl in city and 12-13kmpl outstation. Hope this figure is pretty much ok for a non hybrid 1500cc sedan. No need to bother about the availability of spare parts because until 2012, G11 was in Nissan jap production line and all y12s, ad-wagons and tiidas came with same engine and suspension components (most of the parts are same)and still y12 and ad-wagon are in japan Nissan production line. There are several problems related to g11, 1. Dashboard Leather skin melting down like axio - leather skin can be replaced for rs 15,000- 20,000 2 Ignition coil failure - solved cars manufactured after 2008 3. Suspension bushes can be easily get cracked due to SL poor road - replacement bushes are available in panchikawatta for cheap money.
  24. 1 point
    At the beginning of this year both of these cars more or less had a same price tag. 2016 models were going for 6.4 M ( Axio hybrid G and Grace EX) Nowadays 2016 Axio Hybrid G is around 6.2M and Grace around 6M. Axio WXB 2016 is around 6.5 M When we consider the appearance (interior and exterior) Grace looks much better than the Axio. Even the Axio has gold colour fabric seats which could easily get dirty, Grace's half leather seats are much more appealing. Same with the dash board, air conditioning controls, display. Grace has A/C vents for rear passengers as well. Grace has paddle shifts which makes it fun to drive over axio, also it handles better. Axio has features like Toyota Safety sense C which includes lane departure warning, automatic high beams, radar brakes. Grace has radar brake system but not sure about the other two though. When we consider hybrid systems, Axio has hybrid Synergy Drive which is more fuel efficient over Honda's Integrated Motor Assist (IMA). You can search about these two systems and decide which is better for use in our conditions. Also Axio has CVT ( Continuous Variable Transmission) where as Grace has DCT (Dual Clutch Transmission). Search about these two also and decide. Considering the complains and reviews on both these , it seems DCT is causing much more trouble than the other in our conditions (both road and climate) Also axio has a better looking version as WXB, which has DRL, sports grill, half leather interior, smoked front and rear lamps, body kit and yet Grace looks better. I'd say the heart wants to go with the Grace but the brains says to stick with the Axio. I'd probably go with the heart.
  25. 1 point
    CS1 - 1300cc CS2 - 1500cc CS3 - 1600cc For 2.2mn u would be able to find a CS2/3 YOM 2003 or 2004 i guess 1) They are sedans so dont expect fuel figures like in hybrids or hatchbacks . CS2/CS3 wouldnt hav much difference in fuel consumption and the auto would do 1 or 2 kmpl less than the manual. 2)Full option comes as GLX with ABS ,airbags and PS ,PM 3)They are jap cars and maintenance/spares wouldnt be a problem. 4) CS2 and CS3 are 1500 and 1600cc respectively 5) CS cars after 2007 had minor upgrades than the older 2003 models 2003-2006 has a different old style steering wheel than the 2007 upwards model Front grille is more roundish and small than the 2007 upwards model 2003-2006 basic models did not come with power shutters whereas from 2007 upwards all CS models came with power shutters. both facelift and the old 2003 models have the same engine and suspension . 6)U could squeeze out some more KMPL out of a manual than an auto . No other issue other than that between auto and manual. Thigs to look for when buying . If it was owned by a company and the meter reading is like 100000kms then probably the meter is altered . If u still want to buy it although the meter is altered Get the engine checked through the agents. CS1 Auto would have less pulling power . try to go for a cs2 or cs3. Ive seen an autogear lancer CS2 with 200000km on the odo running fine . if the car was maintained properly dont get scared of the mileage. Check things like suspension bushes and shockabsorbers coz a suspension repair on these are costly. You wouldn't be able to identify the difference between a cs1 /cs2/ cs3 from outside or the interior unless you check the Model number. They have hydraulic operated clutches so if the clutch pedal feels spongy . then its probably time to replace the clutch pumps. When the Abs light goes off u will hear a relay switching off "tick" sound which is normal . Check if the idle up works by switching on the ac . if not . maybe a simple fix as cleaning the Idle valve or an expensive fix such as replacing the idle controller. Take off the spark plug covers and check for oil leaks into the spark plugs . (A common fault in those engines) simple fix , not costly Mobil oil in Mitsubishi engines are known to give sludge problems . so if mobil was used . get prepared do a complete engine flush and use Valvoline instead . (not 100% sure about the credibility of this information coz it is said by the agents, but better safe than sorry ). If an Auto then the auto gearbox would need proper maintenance and periodic oil changes which will make sure the auto box runs forerver without much issue. Gear shifter on mitsubishis are stiff compared with most cars . so if its wobbly , then the bushes at the end of the shifter cable needs replacing . (no idea about cost but wouldnt be much expensive i guess) whatever the seller says , unless he has replaced the timing belt through the agent keep some money to spare for a timing belt change and get it changes as soon as possible. If u want a better look than performance . Buy a 2007 or 2008 facelift model CS1 manual . has some decent ammount of pickup . if ur more of a drive fast person then buy a cs2 or cs3 but for 2.2mn u would have to go for the prefacelift model .
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