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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/23/2011 in Posts

  1. 29 points
    The idea behind this document is to create a guide to buying a used car in Sri Lanka. This is just my preliminary draft, and if it's useful I hope the experts here will add/edit it, and create a final detailed guide, which maybe could be posted somewhere in autolanka (if they think its useful) Buying a used vehicle in Sri Lanka (This applies to purchase of a used car regardless of the price/age, and applies to all registered and 'reconditioned' vehicles.) 1. tests you can perform: ================ Engine ==== Before starting: - check the engine oil. Is it at the correct level? Yes: OK/Owner topped up No: Owner does not top up, engine burning oil, etc Color of oil - Light brown/colorless - engine is running reasonably good/recent service - black - engine running bad/never serviced Note: diesels tend to have dark/black engine oil After starting Did it start easily? Yes: OK No: problems in engine/battery/starter motor/tune/etc. does the exhaust show visible smoke (white, black, bluish or grey smoke)? this coud indicate engine problems such as oil burning, worn engine etc. -- note: diesels do occationally smoke a bit, especially under acceleration does it maintain operating temperature? - listen to the engine in idle - do you hear clattering, rattling, or any odd sounds? they could indicate various problems ranging from bent valves to broken mounts? note: diesels are somewhat louder than normal gasoline engines Test drive =========== Lets say you decide to go for a test drive.. .. Step out of the vehicle, and ask the owner to get it out of his driveway/car sale etc. As he does this observe the vehicle, and see if it smokes or struggles during the procedure. Look at the place where the vehicle was parked. If there is visible engine oil/coolant, etc this could indicate problems in the vehicle. (water may be visible from the car's A/C, this is normal). Ask the owner to drive you: 1. Along a rough road (so you can test the suspension) 2. On a good road, ask the owner to drive up to at least 56km/h (or whatever local speed limit) so you can see how the vehicle performs at high speed. Turn OFF the radio and A/C and listen to the car for rattles/hums Tip: a hum from front/rear may indicate need to replace wheel bearings (or what our people refer to as razors) - Stop the car and ask the owner to back up a small hill, and observe the car exhaust for smoke, this is a good test of the clutch/etc. Actual test drive: - First make sure the vehicle has insurance and road licence which are valid. Ask to see them. Then test drive the vehicle very carefully. Make sure you have a good flat road and there is very little traffic. Remember its an unfamiliar vehicle and proceed with caution. First, test the clutch and brakes. The clutch should engage neatly before releasing the pedal fully. If it engages very late, it could mean a blown clutch plate. If there are clutch/brake problems, don't drive any further, and ask the owner to resume driving. And ask yourself whether you are sure you want to buy this car, from someone who couldnt even do basic maintenance. Reviewing the owner How the owner behaves during the test drive can give you a clue of how s/he uses the vehicle in real life. For example: - Does he roll down the window and drive (even though there is an A/C) - this may indicate that the A/C rarely worked. - Does he drive like a rally driver (in which case you can buy the car if you are willing to buy an extra engine, transmission and suspension) How has s/he spent on the car? If he has spent a lot on cosmetics while ignoring real existing mechanical problems, then you should probably consider another car. Is s/he straightforward and honest? Does what the owner says match up to what you see? For example, if the owner said the car had 2 owners in total and the log book copy shows 4 owners, then they could be lying about other things, and you should be cautious. Sometimes owners make mistakes, or simply don't know an answer, but overall if the owner appears to be honest and straightforward, that is a positive sign. [Ask Questions As you review the car, ask questions from the owner. If you see anything odd, ask about it. If the owner is honest and straightforward, its a positive sign. Try to gauge how much of what the owner is telling is the truth. A good way to do this is to pretend you don't know something and ask a question. After the test drive ============ After you return to the owners house/car sale, ask the owner to pop the hood and inspect the engine. - check temperature management. The gauge inside the car should be half or less. Aside from the gage, the engine should be reasonably managing temperature and the fans should be working properly. - Carefully tap the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. If it burns your finger off, the temperature management isnt good. Similarly the engine bay should not be boiling hot (unless it's a Nissan ) Physical inspection of vehicle ===================== 1. Visual inspection: simply look at the car - see if the lines are straight. Look at the paint. Uneven areas could indicate repainting. - look at the wheel arches. Look at the brakes. Look under the car (front/rear) If possible, take the car to a service station and inspect the underneath. If this is not possible, try to look under the car and see what is visible at least - (carry a flashlight with you when you go to see the car). - look for rust, damage, etc. - look at the engine compartment. Are there odd wires and do things look as if they have been messed with? Sometimes legitimate mods (e.g. alarm systems, aftermarket headlamps) require new wiring but if you see a mess inside, it probably means the wiring has been messed up by local mechanics in which case you should think carefully whether you really want this car. - (If the vehicle is cold) carefully open the radiator cap - check if it contains coolant, and if there is any signs of oil (could indicate a head leak) Look at the engine. If it has a slight layer of dust its OK. If it is shiny and has a layer of oil that means it has been washed at a service station. I prefer a car which has a normal slightly dusty engine vs one that has been washed and scrubbed to 'look' new. - look for leaks in radiator pipes. (with the engine off) remove the engine oil cover - if you can see nice clean silver metal with perhaps yellow brown color (engine oil) this is a positive sign. (note: diesels do tend to have dark/black engine interior, this refers to gasoline vehicles only). - Look at the fluid levels of the various fluids (power steering, brake fluid, auto transmission if auto) - if they are not up to level it could indicate leaks or careless owner. - if the vehicle is hot you may be able to open the radiator overflow tank (be careful) and check if he uses coolant. Not using coolant indicates: 1. Owner is an idiot 2. Radiator has leak and owner is topping it up with ordinary water. Either case, don't buy the car. 2. Tap test gently tap the body of the car, with a fingernail (dont rap it loudly) as you walk around. Check the hood, front left and right side and back carefully, also doors (as these are the main accident prone areas). Other general ideas: - Ask the owner what maintenance was performed. If he tells you a list of things replaced/repaired, this is usually a good sign and means the owner took some effort to look after car. - check the mileage? Mileage can be modified - but if it corresponds with the appearance of the vehicle then it could be accurate. - ask for receipts particularly for the timing belt/clutch etc HAS THE VEHICLE BEEN SERVICED/WASHED? If the owner was so cheap that he couldn't service the vehicle before he sold it, then do you really want to buy a car from him/her? *Exception*: Sometimes the owner may be actively using the car in which case it may be a bit dusty but all the same he/she should have washed/serviced/detailed the car within a few days of deciding to sell it. Now Consider the actual condition of the vehicle and make a list of all problems you encountered: Scenario 1: vehicle has major problems which can be fixed ===================================== for example: - Clutch plate gone. - brakes not too good. -minor suspension probs (e.g. weak shocks). - minor engine probs (e.g. poor tune up). Indicates that the seller was a cheap idiot (or typical local) Verdict: Buy with caution, knowing there could be other existing problems, and repair BEFORE YOU DRIVE said vehicle. Scenario 2: Vehicle has minor problems which can be fixed later ========================================= - A/C not running cold enough. - Minor dings, dents, scratches. - Minor cosmetic issues. Verdict: Buy the car, but set aside money to fix those problems later on. Scenario 3: Vehicle has major problems which can't be fixed easily =========================================== - Chassis problems (cracks/bent chassis) - major engine problems (e.g. grey/white/black smoke, burning oil, head gasket leaks) - major suspension/mechanical problems - gearbox problems which would necessitate replacing gear box... so on. Verdict: don't buy the car, unless you own a garage, have a million to spare, or are plain crazy. Other costs Aside from the above, there are a number of things you usually have to do, when purchasing ANY used car. These usually include: - Insurance & road licence. - 4 tires. - full service/oil change/air filter etc. - brake pads/etc - New battery (if existing battery not too good). - Timing belt (if close to 100k km's or multiples of that). Many people will say they replaced the belt, they could be lying. It's easier to spend 10k and replace it than to undergo a broken belt and engine rebuild. If they have replaced the belt, you can get a good garage to visually inspect it. signs of a good vehicle: - Vehicle is clean. (As in, the owner has washed, cleaned, and serviced it.) - is in good mechanical condition (good engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, body) - owner has focused on maintaining the mechanical condition of the vehicle - Vehicle has been maintained properly and scheduled maintenance has been done, e.g. brakes, clutch, timing, etc have been replaced at the proper intervals as necessary. - owner cares about vehicle, services regularly, engine oil is not dirty - owner is upfront and honest about any flaws. - owner uses a good garage for maintenance, and used original/quality components Suggestion 1: To all the experts here, can you please add your comments/suggestions tips on buying a used car. Suggestion 2: Would it be possible for Autolanka readers/Admins to set up a car pricing guide? This could be something updated regularly to show average true market values (like edmunds.com) and be useful to people looking to purchase a car. If any Autolanka readers have suggestions on what they check when buying a used car, please add them here. Update: Top gear have some excellent tips here:
  2. 22 points
    Hi Everyone Recently I went though some interesting details while doing an ECO test. The test passed but I thought everyone should know the details. This applies to both diesel and petrol vehicles. 1. My vehicle has very low emission standards after an overhaul 20,000KMs ago, 1kz-te turbo diesel engine maintained by Toyota and the test was done soon after a service. 2. The test failed when the officer stepped on the engine and reved it over 5000RPM. Simply the guy stepped on the accelerator in 1 second (I timed it). The engine smoked all 3 times because it failed to calibrate intake and output ratios of diesel with the turbo lagging after 1 second rampage to the floor. it was always an under burn because the engine was trying to respond to an overfed intake, By the time the equilibrium was found the test was on the last last few seconds. Therefore the average test reading failed. 3;. Having some knowledge on the subject matter, I started arguing on the test result and the way it was performed. I claimed that the person incharge was not trained on fundamentals. Despite my option to take the test within another 60 days after so many repairs listed to overcome the problem, I opted to do the test again in 30 minutes after the next person in line. The test passed, the engine had fraction of emissions, almost equal to a common rail direct injection engine. 4. I did not go on the easy way of throwing money at the problem of influencing the officers. What happened here? Let me explain. 1. An engine cannot respond to an immediate floor level acceleration in 1 second. The test says - take it over 3500-4000RPM in 3 seconds. What happens is, there is a notice on the computer instructing "ACCELERATE" and the guy ramps to the floor. Engine reaches the red zone of the RPM counter. My 2nd test was done between 3500-4500RPM with proper acceleration. 2. The engine that runs on 5000-7000RPM blows all the smoke dust that is accumulated inside the silencer over 1 year. We NEVER rev engines over 4000RPM on normal running. Not even on an up climb. It is only on an occasional quick deathly overtake and even that I doubt over 5000RPM. The testing should NEVER force an engine to this range. Any engine manufacturer has a warning on red zone RPMS that will definitely damage the engine. The simple colour indicating the RED zone of RPM is to avoid going there. 3. They do the test in this crazy way to reject the engines because there is pressure from the authority (RMV) to stop the smoking. RMV has started penalizing the test officers for passing tests of those engines that are later smoking on the road. This is now going in the typical Sri Lankan viscous cycle of hitting the consumers. Consumers spend over Rs5000-10,000/= to temporarily clean up injectors and replace air cleaners. Some even wash the silencer inside. However the motive behind 1 second floor acceleration is to play safe and fail the engines to avoid penalties by officers conducting the tests. Even if RMV catches on the road the records will indicate that it was failed once. One other reason to rev up is, the actual RPM and the echo based RPM reading on the computer is showing a difference to the lower side. Therefore they floor it to compensate the gap.Instead of doing all this unprofessional over protective conduct of tests, what they really should have is a good software that takes the tester through a good acceleration cycle with a graphical illustration. If the government is so keen on this and care about the environment they should CERTIFY this software and regulate proper usage. if we do not get this properly established like in other countries, lot of innocent people who are not conversant on the detail are going to spend a lot of money when they are already finding it difficult to make ends mean. My polite request - Share is with many people as possible. My intention of writing this is for someone to get this forwarded with proper influence to the Minister of Transport and Commissioner of RMV. For those who go and get into this sad pit, know your rights, show the vehicle manufacturers manual, argue, demand your rights as consumers but be genuine with emissions. We have to protect the world for our younger generation. If your engine is bad get it fixed. Regards Nana
  3. 18 points
    Storing a car: 1. Clean the garage where the car is stored. If possible, remove all cans, bottles, junk, paper etc out of it. Sweep the floor. This is to get rid of rats, which may have already settled in your garage and to get rid of the dust and dirt. Never park the car outside, unless you have absolutely no choice. 2. Wash and vaccum the car once. This will remove dirt like crow droppings, which may damage the paint if it stays on the body for too long. Vaccuming will remove any dirt in the car, particularly food particles such as 'kadala', which may start smelling and attract insects. It will be a good idea to wax it too. 3. Get a trickle charger and connect to the battery. If its an old car (without an ECU), you don't need to do this. You can just disconnect the battery terminals. If you can't do this, make sure the battery is fully charged and its good enough to hold a charge. 4. Some websites will tell you to fill up on petrol. Don't do this. Petrol in Sri Lanka already contains water and chances are that water will vaporize. Also if the car is left in storage for long, fuel rails may get corroded due to the water in petrol. 5. If possible, remove the tires and place the car on jack-stands. If a tire loses all air in it, it might become permanently damaged. You may have to replace the tire(s). This will also remove the strain on the suspension. However, if you are storing the car for just a month or two, you don't need to do this. 6. Keep the handbrake OFF. If you keep it on, you will definitely get a brake bind. Place bricks behind the tires (if you didn't remove them) to prevent the car from moving. 7. Block the air inlet and exhaust pipe. This will prevent rats going in to the car. 8. For a relatively old car, apply some lithium grease (not petroleum grease) on door hinges and similar mechanisms. This is also optional. You don't need to do most of these things if you can start and move the car for a short distance, at least once a week. When starting a car after storage: 1. Give a good look at the surroundings of the car. Check if birds haven't made nests and cats haven't give birth on the wheel wells, under the engine or inside the rims. 2. Open the bonnet and check for evidence of rats. Look for droppings, chewed belts, signs of shavings of plastic. Check the air filter for any damage. 3. If you covered the air intake and exhaust pipe, make sure these are removed. 4. Check the fluid levels - engine oil, gear oil, brake oil, water. Peek under the car to see if you can spot any oil leaks. 5. Check the battery voltage and tire pressure 6. Start the car and run it in idle for a few minutes before moving. Check for misfires during this time. Most likely the engine will misfire due to water in petrol but hopefully it might go away after few minutes on idle.
  4. 18 points
    This thread has almost turned into a elephant house ice cream.... pani-kaju to be exact... pani berenawa...
  5. 17 points
    What kinda of cheap fools are you guys?!?!?!?! Just cos the warning indicator comes on, doesnt mean whatever you run after that you get free petrol or anything. And you're not saving anything by running on the last few drops of petrol.. in fact you're loosing out by doing it.. 1- all the dirt and residue lies at the bottom of the tank and that means if ur running on the last few drops of petrol ur sucking that into the fuel system and harming your engine in the long run. 2- when you're tank has less petrol that means there's more air in it. Which means more space for the petrol to evaporate into the air and just float away when you open your gas tank at the pump. So stop being stupid and cheap and make sure you have at least a 1/2 tank in your tank... u dont save money by running on an empty tank...
  6. 16 points
    Imagine you bought a luxury 2nd hand car for a lot less than an toyota econ box (eg- Jag X-type-2001 vs Toyota vitz - 2009) Prices - jag (some where advertised at around 3mill) , Vitz (unreg - around 4 mill) Efficiency- Jag - 6kmpl, Vitz - 12kmpl(in the real world, not in the toyota fan club) If you run 12000km per year (should be less considering the mileage these cars show in their meters after some time ) The jag will cost Rs.300k , the vitz Rs.150k. So you save Rs.150k on fuel, But if you have invested the extra 1mill on the bank you get Rs.140k as interest. So econfreaks get Rs.10k off every year. Use it for 100 years and you get you'r money back, How fantastic I should consider an exchange to a vitz The best thing is when you are at the lights and you'r back is aching you'r b*tt is tatooed with the cheap fabric seats and you'r cheap metal watch is rattling due to the vibration of the 1L 3 cylinder engine on the steering wheel, and the AC is blowing louder than you'r cheap aftermarket chinese tv system to keep you from not sweating, a jag parks next to you, The guy in it who hasn't spent as much as you did is indulging in the whisper quiet interior, his b*tt on genuine English leather, arms held firmly on the leather warped wheel, piped music coming from his the high quality stereo. Then the lights go green you understand the mistake you made and try to hit the lamp post to commit suicide, but unfortunately 8 airbags burst out from nowhere and it won't let end you'r sufferings. This is just a description of what i would have felt if i used an econ-box, The names of the vehicles where given as examples only
  7. 15 points
    Just started my most ambitious resto project todate. It's a 1970's Alfa Romeo 2000 Berlina. Neglected very badly for many many years the body has rusted to a point that is scary. I originally bought the car for its parts for my Giulia Coupe and even used some bits for my Alfetta GTV. I was thinking of scrapping it many times but I could not get someone to come and dismantle it. However recently my tinker who "retired" after completing my 3 Alfas called me and said he might be interested in doing some work again. I showed him this car and to my surprise he said that it could be saved. I was still quite skeptical though when I thought about the cost and effort required. I slept on it for a few weeks. The more I thought about it though, it was hard to scrap this car for several reasons. 1. It's a classic Alfa Romeo - I mean just how many survivors are around in this country? You can count them with your fingers. 2. Although not a great looking car by Alfa standards, it's an inoffensive 132 bhp 5 speed Sedan with a glorious engine and gearbox. 3. This particular car has some good race history in this country. 4. Almost every fitting and trim bits are intact. 5. I'm a bit mad
  8. 15 points
    Guys, Please await the launching of AutoLanka new site with new features and easy access tomorrow !! -Team Autolanka
  9. 15 points
    The main aim in creating this thread is to educate people about performance modifications and to share the knowledge regarding them. And also to build a more performance oriented car community rather than one based on fiberglass and huge spoilers Why do modifications? It's done in order to improve things in various departments of a vehicle such as handling,looks,speed,braking etc. A modification can make or break a car,so it's important to choose them wisely. What to start with? It depends on ones preference and what one really wants from his or her vehicle. If it's just the looks a good body kit and a set of alloys would be more than enough to satisfy ones need.But if you are more of a petrol head and into performance one might take the performance path. Performance path is for those who like to feel,hear the difference and not just see it. In my opinion its the best path to take because you can enjoy it at the end of the day. Where to start? It depends on the vehicle one would select for modifications. To make things better the weaknesses should be treated first."Power is nothing without handling" but to start with handling one should know what the final product would be and what figures he is looking for, so for someone who hasn't got an idea about it, starting with engine modifications would be the wiser thing. But for someone who would feel that stock power is enough the brakes and handling is the way to go. Engine Modifications The extent of the modifications depend on what one is hoping to achieve and the amount of cash allocated. Then one would have to choose whether he is going in the NA route or the Forced Induction route.But if it's someone whose wanting to get more power from an everyday car whilst keeping its drivability and practicality it's better to go in the NA route. Some of you'll might disagree but its cheaper when compared to forced induction. The power of an engine is mostly based on air,fueling and ignition,so in order to improve things these departments need improvements. So lets see what could be done. Intake The intake provides oxygen for the combustion of fuel in the cylinder. Therefore more oxygen leads to complete combustion which leads to more power. Colder air contains more oxygen, one might have realized slightly improved throttle response during a cold day or in a cold area like Nuwara eliya. The EFi engines consist of various sensors located in the intake route in order to measure the flow,Oxygen percentage,Intake temperature etc. The values obtained by these will lead to the performance of the engine. If we could decrease the intake temperature more fuel would be added to the cylinder due to the more oxygen present in the air resulting in more power and vise versa. In order to do this most performance engines come with a cold air intake which manages to keep the intake temperature down most of the time Cold Air Intake (CAI) and performance filters Cold air intake is one which is directed in a manner which sucks in air which is cooler than the air inside the engine bay. Normally these intakes are routed through the front bumper or else below the engine bay. These systems have proved to improve the gains but has their down sides. The increase in pipe length will decrease the throttle response slightly and there are chances of water going into the system due to floods etc. If one has a well ventilated engine bay (preferably one with a large front grille) a performance filter will improve the power slightly. A performance filter is one which has better flow than the stock filter whilst filtering the dust and particles. But most of the time the filtration suffers. So one should consider the filtering property too when choosing a performance filter because it would have adverse effects on engine life specially in a country like ours. Cone intake vs Stock replacement performance filter The cone intake would let in more air leading to a slight power gain and also will produce the induction noise which some prefer. The gains will be mostly in the high rpm range and the low end gain would depend on the car and sometimes might be negligible. Also when fixing a cone intake it should be fitted in a place where it could draw in cool air sometimes placing in the stock location of the air box might lead to a drop in power once the engine heats up due to hot air being drawn in. For better performance a heat shield could be used to prevent it from drawing in heated air. The stock replacement performance filter would improve the low end mostly and is not fancy as a cone intake. It doesn't alter the induction noise either yet quite practical for a daily driven car. The gains from these modifications depends on a lot of factors such as the displacement of the engine,compression,flow rates etc. The gain in figures would be anywhere between 2-5bhp (*subjective) Throttle body and intake manifold modifications Increasing the diameter of the throttle body will lead to a gain in some engines while it would kill the low end in some others. The ones running high compression would gain from this cause of the increased amount of air fed into the engine yet it might lead to a drop in air velocities in the ones with normal compression. Throttle body polishing would increase the air velocity which would lead to a slightly better throttle response. Bigger intake manifolds will make a difference in a high compression NA engine or one which is having forced induction but will not be ideal to be used one cars with normal compression ratios. Exhaust The Exhaust system consist of many parts namely the Exhaust manifold,down pipe, catalytic converter,muffler. Exhaust Modifications Before doing an exhaust modification one should know what he wants from it. If it's just the sound a free flow muffler a.k.a Beat barell would do. But if it's performance one would have to modify the components of the exhaust. The exhaust system is based on the backpressure which is needed to some extent for a daily driven car but too much of it will hinder the performance. So the the extent of the modification depends on which rev band power is needed. If one wants to squeeze a bit of power with a tight budget a Cat back system would be ideal. Cat back exhaust It is a system consisting of piping with larger diameter and a performance muffler. But the changes are done after the catalytic converter. This would lead to a better mid and high end whilst keeping the stock low end power. But when choosing the pipe diameter bigger isn't always better. Therefore the piping with the correct diameter should be selected. Exhaust manifold (Headers) These would be changed according to the gain expected. If its a turbo conversion these would definitely need changing. The pipe diameter depends on the application its being used on but they have a gain over the stock manifold which sometimes reduces the velocity of the exhaust gas due to its size and construction. So for someone looking for more power the headers would be a good option. But they should be fabricated by professionals and also it's better to use thermal insulation to keep the engine bay temperature low. Muffler The muffler is used to muffle the sound of the exhaust. The choice depends on the owners preference but most of the time a proper performance muffler which is made by a reputed company sounds better than a Beat barell which is made in Sri Lanka. The free flow is said to reduce the back pressure slightly but the gain in negligible in some cases. The sound it makes depends on the size of the internal pipe of the muffler, The amount of glass wool, the size of the tip etc. A small muffler on a large engine will make is sound real bad while the other way around will hinder the performance of a small engine. There are two types of exhaust setups that could be used in a conventional 4 cylinder engine. First one is known as a 4-1 and the other is known as 4-2-1 4-1 Exhaust Here the 4 pipes on the exhaust manifold is fitted to one exhaust pipe which is known as the down pipe. The gains of this kind of system is mostly on the mid and top end. It is an ideal set up for racing because the engine is running in the high rev range most of the time. 4-2-1 exhaust Here two pipes from the exhaust manifold is joined to a single pipe. This setup improves the mid and low end gain and most suited for street use. Please feel free to share your views regarding these and to correct me if I'm wrong. More information to be posted soon Drive Safe
  10. 15 points
    Well it's mostly a straight road and he probably assumed he had sufficient traction on his tyres and I guess 100km/h by motorway standards is not really that fast, so I wouldn't call him a fool, perhaps something happened to make him veer off the road more than just lack of traction. Who knows? But trust me if you drove 20km/h on a motorway you'll be offending other motorists, if you want to drive at that speed get on the galle road and while you say there is no minimum speed on the motorway, these are the things so many uneducated drivers start saying and make driving on that road dangerous. When I was on it the other week, 8/10 drivers couldn't keep to a lane making overtaking dangerous. Perhaps this is what happened: Someone thought 'no offence by driving in the middle, it's safe like that no?' and the idiot passengers probably thought 'no minimum speed limit no, so let's drive in the middle at 60km/h'. A CB3 Lancer may have been trying to overtake them going at 100 (because he has a beat barrel, no?) and finds he can't overtake the moron in the middle of the road. The moron then decides to pick a lane, going to the right, the Lancer then has to swing left, because he's an idiot too and has got too close (can't slow down cos he has a beat barrel) and goes off the road, crumples into a ball and lands on the farmer's cow. The original moron in the middle of the road said "ammatasiri see! Good thing we are going slow and in the middle like this"
  11. 14 points
    Hi AL, Thought I'd share photos of my KE72V. Technically it's my father's but unofficially it's mine A little history on this- my father imported this KE72V DX in 1989 with 40,000kms on the ODO. It's been with us ever since! The milage now is a little over 141,000kms and it still purrs along without any issues. I'm in the process of restoring it to factory original specification but I'd love to replace the stock K40 transmission with a k50 (5speed) transmission. I would if I could find one for cheap! I've even got the original seat covers! (I'm looking for another set, let me know if any of you good KE72 owners want to sell yours!) Instrument cluster- Future plans- I've already wet-sanded the entire body with 1500grit sandpaper in anticipation of a cut/polish job. Sadly that was a few months back and I spent all the money I had on another project! I'm hoping to cut/polish the paint soon. Both rear lamp lenses are cracked and missing bits so I'm searching for new lenses. My car is missing the fan shroud (better known as the 'radiator cover') that is essential for the factory AirCon to work. I've given up looking for an original so I'm going to try and get one scratch built. That's about it, hope you enjoyed my ride as much as I do! Thanks for stopping by and regards, Jay. EDIT: I moved all my photos of the '72 to a separate album in Photobucket so had to repost the direct links. Hope they turn up!
  12. 14 points
    are we hypersensitive to that level? he simply states his intent and that is enough to be taken as "ridicule" and "offensive"? to consider that the fiber community are "mentally handicapped" simply because OP wants to sponsor a different ideal? where are the offenses in that highlighted statement? i have said more offensive things about the homeega civic on facebook, and MD has been very illustrative in pointing that out. now there's true offense. go see that thread on the honda club page. are we superficial to that level? MD posts a photo of OP's car, and we are all in a hurry to judge it on its visual merits? without having seen the car in person, or having any idea of what he has done with it? which, having known kelum for some time, i know to be a lot, considering his age, financial status and experience. are we egotistic to that level? there are accusations here of him copying and pasting from wiki etc. but i'll have you know, i was never a good hand at mechanics. i learned a lot about tuning the car from OP. yes. i learned stuff i didn't know about honda engines, ECU's gearboxes and suspension from an 18 year old A level student who knew better than me. and as a result i have project R. he was one of my sources of knowledge, if i had let my ego get the better of me, i'd still be driving around in a riced out automatic GSR, deeply unhappy with myself. are we judgemental to that level? yes kelum knows godzi well. he was in the car when harsha pulled his famous 2nd gear pull. but does that put him in that lot? i know MD well. hell we've raced go karts and had hissy fits together! but does that mean i am a supporter of all the visual mods he has lauded? people please. let's save our ire for idiots like rotaryhead who come here with ammi's and appi's money and waste our time. kelum's a good kid. he may be a greenhorn but his knowledge on motor mechanics is on par or superior to most of us. let's give him a chance to say what he has to say.
  13. 14 points
  14. 14 points
    I have a different way of looking at this. Despite my taste and judging by almost all posts on this thread seems to lie elsewhere... whoever the owner of this car, put a lot of heartache, money, time and effort into building these things. They have horrible design taste but you gotta appreciate the sheer effort to get something like this done. We all know how hard it is to get something simple done here. So i'd say kudos to the effort! Just wish they had the exposure to learn about proper styling
  15. 14 points
    Mr Money Maker, I m not sure you have instilled the right name for yourself and since you seem to feel you have the capability of calculating car prices by looking at the internet let me give you a lesson on the duty and price of this particular car Valuation given by the customs - 23 000 Pounds Price of a sterling pound on the day of duty calculation- 205 SLR Age of vehicle for duty calculation - 1 year Depriciation scale- 80% Duty Percentage for 1600 cc vehicles = 200% Duty for this vehicle on the day of clearing = 23 000 X 205 X 0.8 X 2 = Rs 7,544 000 And the dealer price of this car would be between 19 000 -22 000 pounds depending on the mileage, condition and year of manufacture If you take an approx figure of 20 000 pounds then the SLR Price would be approx = 20 000 X 205 = Rs 4,100 000 Which would give you a landed price = Rs 7,544 000 + RS 4 100 000 = Rs 11 644 000 This price is also without shipping and insurance which is another Rs 150 000 approx These price have been calculated at a pound rate of 205 and the current rate today is 208 for a sterling pound You obviously do not seem to know the difference between the standard DS3 and the DS3 racing. Mr money maker i would not waste my time explaining to people like you, but on a public forum if you come and try to teach BRJW on your knowledge of the local car imports with prices without any proof then someone like you should be dealt with. And my advice is you better not take to car imports any time soon cause with the prices you offer you can name yourself Mr Charity. And for your information the car has been sold.
  16. 14 points
    This notion of "fun" and boasting of excessive speeding has started to concern me a bit. From one hand we have a two lane motorway with a lot of bends with an inadequate hard shoulder. From another side we have inexperienced drivers experiencing a motorway for the first time. I am starting to worry our first pile up with multiple casualties is only around the corner ..... Stay safe boys and girls! A motorway is not for joy riding and remember its not only your life on the line! Most people when they venture south go with their families......
  17. 13 points
    Ive just signed up for this site and all ive been seeing are that anytime someone puts up a question about a hybrid, flocks of users keeps insulting them on their vehicle. I really dont see what they have to hate them so much?? I own a prius 3rd gen and i can tell from over 2 years of use that although it may not be in the same class and far from the of looks as an exotic or be anywhere near a sports car in performance it does serve its purpose better than any other car ive used so far. Ive been using a 121 and ive been using beemers and several other US models and ive experienced first handed that this prius is much more reliable and much economical in every sense compared to other cars of the SAME price range. I am an avid lover of tuned modified cars and the prius does not make those come true but it still is one of the best cars ive ever driven. To anyone looking for a car which is reliable or economical i would recommend a prius although if looking for a cheap car it would not be bad to get a used 121 or civic (i am not a environmental freak btw though i do care for it :| ) The prius saves me a lot on gas and i mean a lot. i drive over 3000km per month both in colombo and to outstation locations. during long distance driving i ususally get over 20kmpl but if not going agressively i can get around 30kmpl while going at 50-70kmph. in rush hour traffic i get varying mileage while sometimes it may drop to 16kmpl but usually about 19-22kmpl. and considering the price of fuel it is a great saving considering i dont even have to use 95 octane. i was going to buy an allion 2011 but decided against it as the prius was full of options unlike the allion. someone here suggested that i test the pre collision system by driving at a wall or tree... and i did try it. but i instead drove it at a pile of cardboard boxes and for their info it did stop automatically without hitting it. and the radar cruise control is also a useful feature but i dont use it much considering our three wheel drivers and motor bikes. other maintenance stuff is also lower as the service has to be done only every 10000km and there is no need to change ATF oil or any belts. ive been using it for 40000km and the brake pads are almost like brand new. (in the corolla i would have to replace every 25000) the only problem is the stock ture size that came in the touring mode. the 17" 215 tires are a bit expensive but this problem is not there in the regular JP prius. ive yet to replace a single mechanical part and there have been no issues at all except that i drained the 12V battery once by listening to the radio in ACC mode for too long. another benefit is when the car is stopped you can use the AC without burning fuel. the performance is nowhere near a BMW or an american car but it does provide more power than the majority of vehicles in sri lanka (outside inner colombo ) and the acceleration response is better because of the motors. and in PWR mode it feels much better than an insight in S mode (though the sound of the engine is not at all sporty... sounds like an aircraft taking off) On the contrary to what people say, the battery is as reliable as any other part of the car and the chance of your battery failing is almost nil unless you treat it badly which is the same for a gasoline car if you do not maintain the engine it will be damaged. and the battery can now be repaired by changing damaged cells which are about 7000 rupees only. and i believe a reason people insult hybrid owners are because they drive slowly. thats the fault of the driver, not the car.. driving slow will not make it more efficient and ive seen people in jaguars and BMWs going slower than that. to all who think hybrids are cheap vehicles. just because they are relatively cheap here, in japan they are about two time more expensive when used than a brand new allion.. AND i know some here are going to say im jobless to be typing this yeah. true. im doing this just because some people dont care about saving their hard earned money that doesnt mean they should insult others who do try. anyone who has any questions im willing to provide answers to the best i can. and im open to any comments why your'll hate hybrids so much (P.S i did hate them before i bought one... so you should try it without being prejudiced)
  18. 13 points
    Machan "pdeeban" don’t blow your own trumpet too much. Just because you got a permit and you go for a beamer will not make you special. Obviously I cannot afford 11mil, but honestly from the way you commenting, my guess is that the permit is not something you earned by your hard work and also you are one of those soda bottle millineries who got rich suddenly by favoring the ruling party, or by illegal business or you’re a dumb ass son of a rich father. So my advice is more you maintain silence, more you’ll doing a favor for yourself, especially in a forum like AL.
  19. 13 points
    Bullsh*t. Sad to see that you haven't changed that shortsighted mentality of yours even after all these years. Once a blinkered idiot, always a blinkered idiot I guess. To The OP, Most modern diesel engines are completely differrent beasts than old lumps like the Toyota C, L engines and the Nissan QD's etc. Stuff like common rail injection, Variable geometry turbos and so on all lead to an engine that has much higher stresses put upon it than the diesels of old. That is partly why modern diesels are very powerful and even more economical than ever before. All in all, this means that durability is reduced somewhat compared to the older lumps that could take 200-250,000 Km between rebuilds. This is not a problem common to the koreans either, even modern Toyota common Rails like the D4D's found in the Prados, hiluxes and so on can do maybe 150,000 Km before they too need to be redone. So contrary to what the so called "engineer" who replied first tells you, this is a problem common to most modern diesel engines, simply because of the stresses put on them. Another factor (In SL at least) is the quality of our Diesel. Most modern engines need clean diesel with a very low Sulfur content. Even our Super diesel is not quite good enough compared to what you get in other countries but it is certainly WAY better than the normal diesel. This is why all agents who sell modern diesels generally say very clearly to only use super diesel. Unfortunately, because the Korean SUV's are pretty reasonably priced, most of the time our donkeys (like the "engineer" up there) decide that they know better than the agent and the manufacturer, and pump normal diesel. Which of course leads to the engine getting buggered early on.
  20. 13 points
    There used to be a time in this country where people raised hell when they got ripped off. Now they just open autolanka accounts. When you look at these people, it's really no wonder that the government can do what ever it wants. Welcome to Sheep Lanka. A land like no other.
  21. 13 points
    Seems there were some other things mentioned which Peri has kindly cleaned up. And I agree with you as well, common decency has to go both ways. But as it is said in Buddhism, anger breeds anger. There is no point of trying to fight fire with fire. I think my advice to anybody on this forum is, if somebody posts something factually incorrect point it out, if you have a different opinion feel free to air it and everybody must understand by virtue of you publishing your opinion you are also inviting others to challenge it and that is how a forum works. We all have to learn to take criticism without restoring to bad language name calling and personal attacks and accept the diversity of opinions that exist But there is still such a thing as etiquette and if you don't like an individual or what he has to say, I think the best way to deal with it is just ignore that individual. Anyway, since Sylvi and Watchmen have both had their say, its time to move on..........
  22. 12 points
    Sad to see member camaraderie being abused like this.I've had AL members give me free parts and services when they found out that I'm in to classics.All in the name seeing a car they liked but couldn't own come back to life.To take that generosity and use it for financial gains would be the lowest of the low...
  23. 12 points
    Great.. I have a question. I have this cooking pan that I made dahl in and i left it too long on the cooker.. Can you recomend what I can use to clean it. I tried Vim and Sunlight but it didnt work... A quick response is much appreciated since i need to cook dinner in the same pan tonight.
  24. 12 points
    ‎- Since 2004 I've been coming for Drags, taking part and wishing that one day an event legally held at green path would happen... finally it did! The reason why an event like this becomes a success is simply down to the people that take part... we are lucky to have a group of people that love what we do... race each other hard and at the end of the day are still great friends... I can say that through out this month, I've met some awesome people, made new friends and increased the love i have for this sport... Lets make damn sure that come January, Sri Lanka will stand out further for having some of the best prepared cars and more importantly a fantastic group of sportsman! Cheers to everyone who made this event happen and hats off to you all
  25. 11 points
    That's a load of horse manure. The mechs an idiot
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