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  1. 6 points
    Vagina eke light wada lu...
  2. 4 points
    All mechanical work on the project Moggie will discuss here. This was the differential original status. Cleaned & painted differential Back brake liners were wet with leaked differential oil because of weak oil seals. Found matching oil seal from local market and hope it will fix the leaking. Cleaned & painted brake shoes with newly applied liners. Cleaned and painted leaf springs Present status
  3. 4 points
    Service brake = Brake Pedal next to the accelerator E-brake = Hand-brake/Parking brake 1. Apply Service brake fully 2. Shift the car to N 3. Apply E-brake fully 4. Release the service brake, Make sure the car is stationary (make sure the car is held by the E-brake) 5. Apply service brake again 6. Shift the car to P 7. Release the service brake 8. Switch the engine off Get used to this routine. You'll be doing it this way by muscle memory in no time
  4. 3 points
    Today, my review is based on one of the most frequently seen cars on SL roads; Toyota Axio Hybrid. Since the car was first introduced in 2012 only as a gasoline variant continuing the 1NZ-FE engine, the Hybrid variant was introduced in 2013. So most people went for the hybrid variant instead of going for the gasoline variant. The the car received a minor facelift in 2015 together with the addition of the Toyota Safety Sense C (link about Safety Sense C- https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/CFA_TSS_C.pdf). From the introduction, the car still remains as one of the most imported cars to SL. Here in this review I'm going to focus mainly on the driving dynamics and build quality. First of all, the looks. Yeah I know that it is not a head turner at all, but I really don't like the exterior look of the pre facelift variant (apologizing from all the owners). The facelifted version looks much better IMO but that is totally based on my personal opinion. Here my review is based on a 2014 Hybrid G variant. So I'll start with the topics. Interior We all know that most people were let down by the interior quality of the 2007-2011 Axio NZE141, due to really cheap and plasticy looking bits and pieces. So the newer version seems nice at the first glance. I really like the soft padding on the door panels and on the passenger side of the dashboard. When you close the door, you'll feel a bit of solidity. Design wise, 161 interior is better than the 141 in almost all the aspects except for the area where the gear shifter is located. On the 141 model the dashboard continues towards the front armrest as a one piece, but on the 161 it looks kind of seperated. This creates an empty space around the gear shitfter, giving the impression of a much more cheaper car. Watch closer and you'll notice the cost cutting effects which took place around the cabin. First one is the hard plastic dashboard top. On the previous 141 generation, the dashboard top panel was finished with a soft touch material. On the G grades, same material was continued on the upper parts of the door panels (dark grey part). But on the 161 Toyota have gone with the cheaper hard plastics. But they would not bring out the dashboard cracking issues which were existed on the 2007-2008 models. Main competitor of the Axio Hybrid, Honda Grace have a much more exciting interior with tons of silver insertings and colourful lighting in the dash. Compared to Grace, Axio's interior looks kind of bland for me, but the feels that it is a bit solid than the Grace. Seating is a bit improved from the 141. You'll get more side support on the front seats and seats are a bit softer (maybe due to the velvet like covers used). Front seating positions are okay and are mainly catered for a comfortable ride than a sporty ride. This car has a good rear seating position for tall passengers. On the Allion/ Premio thigh support is insufficient on the back seats due to lower positioned bench. But on the Axio Hybrid, thigh support is really good for tall passengers. Again you'll notice a cost cutting attempt on the back seats. Fixed headrest. Shame on you Toyota. You'll only get adjustable headrests in the Luxel variant, but there are only a few and those are gasoline versions. Leg space is okay and a bit better than the 141, but lacks when compared to Grace. Still most people would find the interior space is adequate. Options Almost equal to 141, but lesser than the Grace. You'll find Stability control and Electronic brake force distribution which was only available in the Luxel of the 141. Also you'll get nanoe (generates ions with water particles to reduce skin drying out when using the AC). From 2015 facelift, safety features became standard throughout all the grades. But thw two front tweeters came with the G limited and above variants of the 141 were absent. Actually there is nothing more to say about the options, so let's move on to discuss how it drives. Driving Once you sit on an Axio Hybrid you'll have to totally forget that you are in a driver's car. I mean "TOTALLY". Even from the earlier days most Toyotas are not famous for sportier rides, but there was a very little amount of enjoyment left. VERY LITTLE. But here, it is NONE. Even boring cars like Allions, Premios, 141s, Aquas, Prius and suprisingly the gasoline variant of the 161 Hybrid feels much more engaging to drive than the Hybrid Axio (But still miles behind other cars like Mazda Axela). I drove it on a twisty road and I got ZERO feedback from the steering. No weight. Numb. You can't predict how the tires would react to your input given through the steering. I almost met with an accident when I took a bend after speeding a bit on a straight road, because I was unable to predict how the car would react to the steering input given by me. The problem is when you drive the car at higher speeds you cannot predict the amount you'll need to turn the steering wheel to take the bend. Even the boat like Allions and Premios have a little weight to the steering which would help you a bit in this kind of occasions. Aqua shares the same powertrain with the Axio hybrid, but feels more nimble and sharper to drive. But this issue is less pronounced when you drive the car slowly. It is dead easy to drive and maneuver around the town due to this lightness. But on corners, the car has plenty of grip than the previous generation. I experienced a noticeable reduction in body roll when compared it with the 141 Axio. Also when you do over 100kmph the car feels well planted on the road than the previous gen ( 141 Axio felt like the car is flying, when the speed is over 120kmph). I remember that Toyota had repeatedly mentioned on their japanese site that the high speed stability was enhanced, at the time when the new model was first introduced. Then the acceleration. On speeds below 50-60kmph it has adequate torque. The motor gives sudden bursts of torque on demand, so it's easy in traffic and low speeds. When you put your foot down, for a brief period you'll really feel the assistance of the motor, but then it slowly fades away around 50-60kmph. For me it does not feel as fast as the 141 Axio ( Let's not compare it with the the Honda's equipped with i-DCD Hybrid System). The car weighs about 1150kg with 110 combined horsepower, but the 1310kg weighing Civic FD3 feels much more livelier and responsive even though it has the same amount of combined horsepower. Again, for day to day driving the powertrain is more than adequate. I know most of you feel disappointed about the driving dynamics about this car at this moment. But you should not forget that it's a Toyota's entry level hybrid. It serves all the purposes which it was intended to fulfill. A major plus point that you can experience in this car is the fuel economy. In freely moving traffic it gives around 15-17kmpl. Long distances would help to squeeze out around 25kmpl. I don't have much knowledge or details about the fuel economy levels, but I would be glad if owners can post the figures as comments. Then the smoothness. When compared to Honda's hybrid systems ; specially the i-DCD Hybrid systems in Fit, Vezel and Grace, the Axio Hybrid is silky smooth. The integration of the engine and the motor is seamless. You won't notice a single sign while the car changing from the motor to the engine, except for the slight engine whirling sound. As I mentioned earlier in this forum, there is a bit of as issue with the Honda i-DCD Hybrid system at the beginning of a steep hill. It feels like the gearbox is confused to choose the correct gear. You won't experience that in the Toyota. It just goes. The powertrain of the Toyota Hybrid system feels polished than the Honda's. Another benefit is the comfort level and refinement. The car is comfortable over bumps than the Honda's due to the softer suspension setup, but not as good as an Allion or a Premio. It's on par with the previous gen IMO. Road noise levels are also low and the hybrid system helps to eliminate the engine noise during lower speeds. I notice a huge difference in comfort and refinement levels in the Honda Grace when compared to the Axio Hybrid. Grace is bumpy and the suspension feels busy over bumps. Harder seats worsen it further. So for doing long distances Axio Hybrid is the best option due to the fuel economy and refinement levels. What we should not forget is that the purposes it was built for and those are economy and easy drive. Issues and Reliability Since I drove the car for a brief period, I cannot comment much about the reliability. The owner of the car (a close friend), I've driven bought it in 2014 as a Zero mileage unit and still owns it without an issue. Now the car has done around 60,000kms. I've heard about premature battery failure, but haven't met an owner who had to experience it. But there is a possibility for that due to the fact that it shares the same powertrain with the Aqua, which is famous for the same issue. Other than that, haven't heard about any complaints. Verdict At the end, all I have to say is that the Axio Hybrid would satisfy you if you expect what it can deliver at its best. Don't look for it expecting handling levels that would put a smile on your face. The issue of the steering wheel can only risky when you push the car to its limits, but if not, that is perfectly tolerable for a typical SL driver. I'd name it as a car which is perfectly suited for the typical SL driver. At the end I have to say that this review is based on none other than my personal experiences. Feel free to highlight the flaws and mistakes, as it would be helpful for my next review. Thank You for reading. -alpha17- For details about grades and variations, you can visit the links below 2012/05 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201205.pdf 2013/04 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201304.pdf 2013/08 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201308.pdf 2015/03 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201503.pdf
  5. 3 points
    Scientific research is one area which is completely bastardized nowadays. Some scientists are worse than politicians. They will do anything to blow up a rare/ virtually non-existent phenomenon, just to build a reputation for themselves and eventually attain celebrity status. After going thru the wikipedia article, I noticed that the whole 'aphantasia' thingy is based on one scientific research by a guy called Adam Zeman and suddenly there are thousands of people around the world with 'aphantasia'. Ill be very careful of it... and you have no idea to what extent some crooked scientists will go, to gain money, reputation and fame. Google 'Andrew Wakefield' if you are not convinced.
  6. 3 points
    The GP1 is the hybrid variant of the 2nd generation FIT while the GP5 is the hybrid variant of the 3rd generation FIT. You can refer the Wikipedia article on the key differences of the 2nd and 3rd gen FITs. A few hybrid specific difference AFAIK are as follows: GP1 Based on Honda IMA Hybrid technology No full EV mode NiMH hybrid battery 1.3L engine, CVT transmission Conventional belt driven engine accessories (A/C compressor, Water pump etc) - So A/C will not work when engine stops at traffic lights etc. GP5 Based on Honda EarthDreams hybrid technology Full EV mode available Li-ion hybrid battery 1.5L engine, 7-speed dual clutch transmission (Shared with Vezel, Grace) All electric engine accessories (A/C compressor, Water pump etc) Hope this helps 😊
  7. 2 points
    10 years is a long long time. Thinking that far ahead when buying a vehicle doesn't make sense. Lot's of variables could change. And the 'Toyota nam market' ideology has been changing over the years. I know this by experience I sold a Honda Fit hybrid within hours of advertising last year when Two people I know struggled for weeks to sell....surprise surprise an Allion and an Axio. So really don't base your car buying decision on Resale value. Think of what you requirement is. If an investment that is likely to pay dividends in 10 years is what you're after Don't buy a vehicle Buy a plot of land those things hardly depreciate.
  8. 2 points
    two vehicles selected indicate investment purpose rather than the utility. in current context buying a vehicle as an investment is not advisable, even KDH
  9. 2 points
    If you are planning on keeping the vehicle for 10 years...then a Hybrid vehicle is actually going to require a lot of attention to the batteries and other Hybrid system components. Also, as some have expressed Hybrid technology is somewhat transient and there are a few other alternatives already coming up...so in 10 years the current Hybrid technology will be somewhat outdated which might effect its desirability (not that it will be completely out...just that there will be other technologies that are less of a hassle and better performing). Now on the other hand your HiAce will also have this issue. However, I believe conventional fossil fuel based vehicles will be slightly more desirable than the Hybrids because although the technology is old its maintainability and serviceability would be a bit more simpler. At the end of the day what will the market be in 10 years time is only speculative. During that 10 years the Hiace will be much more easy to sell off than the Hybrid Fit...mainly because of the reputation and the cult following the vehicle seems to have in SL. However...can I ask why you are looking at two vehicles that are so drastically different ?
  10. 2 points
    It first came as Safety Edition,,,then Safety Edition II and Safety Edition III....pretty much with each iteration they added more and more safety features to the grade. The Vitz will be a boring car to drive (in stock form) but will fulfill your other criteria. If you want to make it a bit more engaging...upgrade the suspension and the wheels and there will be a huge difference in the handling. Power wise..well you will be stuck with the 1L dead horse which..well you really can't do much with. The issue in buying a Vitz is there are a lot of junk units for sale out there... Someone mentioned a Baleno...well...not the most refined of them out there....somewhat decently equipped but not really nice. Only advantage is you get it brand new straight from the agents so you can somewhat trust the authenticity of the vehicle and have the manufacturer's warranty. The Vitz...well they are imported by third party car salesmen and 95% of them are the slimiest and most crooked humans in SL...so you ahve no idea what kind of junk you are getting (even the 1 mileage ones..you cannot trust). The only way you could trust a Vitz is if you directly purchase it at an auction through a trusted agent. If you are okay with a hatch....do you know how much Kias, Hyundais and Perdoduas go for ?
  11. 2 points
    if you worry about resale value in 10 years, only the Toyota suits you 😉
  12. 2 points
    @spectre For all Japanese KYB Excel - G shocks. For front 13,000 * 2 + 6000 (worn out rubber parts + bushing + service charges) For Rear 12,000 * 2 + 3000 (bushing + service charges) Total cost around 59k
  13. 2 points
    Or a Civic- which was the reason behind me buying one
  14. 2 points
    GG7 (./GG8 = AWD) : Fit Shuttle 1.5L + IMA GP3 : Honda Freed..but it came with the 1.5L = IMA...the Freed never came with a 1.3L engine GP6 : Same size as the GP5....only difference is GP6 was the AWD variant.
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    spot On! I've driven both cars and to summarize: GP1 - Old school petrol car you really don't feel you're driving a hybrid it guzzles fuel like an ordinary petrol car too. A bit more rugged than the GP5. Other than the oil burn issue (factory defect in a set of cars) it's a nice old school trouble free car. In 3 years of ownership i only changed the wiper blades. If you can find a car with the oil burn issue fixed/ one that doesnt fall in the affected VIN # range you have a trusty old school car. Batteries have held out well so far I sold mine last year (6 years old 61,000 KMS done) with 75% usable capacity on the battery. GP5 - Puts a smile on your face. Peppy car with lots of pulling power. Nicer interior and more bells and whistles. 'Rockets out' is an apt description. I hate the gear shifter though puny little piece of plastic. People tend to fall in love with GP5s. Despite my warnings about potential DCT issues 2 of my friends after test driving GP5's fell in love with them and ended up buying them. ( One of them - a lady liked it so much that she already ended up ramming a parked Isuzu Elf ) Both models are fun and practical. Nowadays due to the lower price are good bargains.
  17. 2 points
    I’ll explain what are the differences you’ll notice. -GP5 is considerably faster than the GP1 and fun to drive. In terms of acceleration it is on a totally different planet when compared with Vitz and Aquas -Interior is nicely done in the GP5and has an upmarket look than the GP1, but same as the GP1 all materials are hard plastic -GP5’s Handling is a bit better than the GP1 -Some models of the GP1 came with the serious engine oil burning issue which is a real headache. But only a range of cars are affected. You can search in the forum form for their chassis number range to avoid. This was rectified in the GP5 and later GP1s -Comfort wise almost the same -GP5 has the faster wearing Dual Clutch gearbox, which tends to pack up around 80,000kms and above (due to the SL climate) -Both cars don’t have serious battery issues like the Civic Hybrid, but most of the GP1s would be in their final stages due to their age. -GP1 is a more like your usual Petrol car without any serious differences in driving experiences, and the powertrain is really smooth. But GP5 is filled with more electronics. You’ll get a Prius style gear shifter and a parking brake switch. I personally find that the powertrain of the GP5 is unrefined. Some times there is a delay to kick in the engine. But when you put your foot down it just rockets out. -I find that the driving the GP1 in the traffic is a bit hard until you get used to it, because when you leave the breaks the car feels like its in a hurry to go even without pressing the accelerator. Haven’t noticed that in the GP5. -GP5 is one of the most favourite cars that I would love to DRIVE.
  18. 2 points
    Well, at least the Alto might have better acceleration than the CS1... I guess Pity your father got rid of the CS before you had a chance to drive it... you wouldn't have let it go if you got a chance to "taste" it properly
  19. 2 points
    Is there a way to find whether the cockpit room panels are digital or analog, before reserve air tickets ?
  20. 1 point
    For the record...the user manual says Unleaded regular gasoline (section 8-1 in the user manual). In Japan regular Gasoline ranges from 92 - 95 ish depending on the brand.
  21. 1 point
    Yeah when finding a Toyota you need a bit of a luck as well. Got a 2004/2007 Allion 240, 2 years back. 100k on the clock. Absolutely nothing to complain about. Love the ride and the comfort ❤️
  22. 1 point
    I would never recommend used shock absorbers. Like other pointed out, most of them might have been sitting with water, dust and rust. I personally had bad experience after using KYB Excel-G in my previously owned Corolla 121, so I would never recommend anyone to use them. I bought them from the agent (T**s agencies) but after installing the I experienced no difference in ride height but a significant reduction in comfort. Usually reconditioned(G,X and Luxel grades) are more comfortable than the brand new imported xli,gli,lx limited variants. But with the new shocks I was amazed how comfortable was the brand new imported ones. Even on the carpeted roads I felt a notable reduction on comfort. On the other hand handling was much better and I would still choose 121 over a 260 Allion anytime for driving pleasure. At the moment I prefer a comfortable and relaxing drive over a sporty drive without hesitation. I also heard that Toyo Lan uses higher quality grade of KYBs but don't know about the [email protected] What is the price Toyo Lan quoted for shock absorbers? I also need to change the shocks of my 260 Allion and I will not put KYBs ever again, because I bought the car recently and hope to keep it for another 4-5 years.
  23. 1 point
    It's been a while since the last entry where I rambled on about the minor details but now for the all important part how does this actually drive. I've done over 5000 Km's now and I guess spend enough time with the car to give my honest feedback on how it handles etc. I'm not going to dwell on the statistics and figures since that is readily available on the internet - but for formalities sake the Civic comes with the P10A2 engine - Honda's 3 cylinder turbo charged engine which has somewhere between 125-130 BHP. So the overall driving experience ? Well it's adequate and after the break-in period it seems the car is actually quite eager than it was initially. There is a bit of turbo lag and coupled with the torque at low revs you feel a bit like driving a diesel ....no complaints though. A question I usually get from some people is whether this model comes with the much maligned DCT - well surprise surprise it does not. Honda have mated the P10A2 with a CVT. Of course there is always the manual and that is actually supposed to be great as per reviews from the UK - but considering I use this car to drive daily to and from work in the colombo traffic I had to be a masochist to opt for a manual (which I'm not - and god bless future me when I try to sell a manual in Sri Lanka ) . Those who have driven the GP5's and Graces know that the Dual clutch set up is actually a blast to drive - which is not the case with the CVT. My previous car also had a CVT gear box and frankly I'm not a fan of them at all. But then given how DCT's fared locally I guess having a rubbery CVT over a DCT setup is not a huge deal. All grades of the FK6 comes with paddle-shifters - now I know it's a bit funny to see paddle shifters and CVT in the same sentence but what the setup actually does is have more of a simulated shifting mechanism going when you use them. When you're in normal 'Drive' mode you can use the shifters to change gears but the car is too eager to override you and kind of spoils the fun. However if you change your gear to 'S' then the HUD will display an 'M' indicating that the car is ready to receive manual input and a blinking indicator also indicates when the time is right to shift up. Of course if you don't shift at the right moment the car will give you some time and after a while will override you. S mode, and the 7-Speed CVT with the shifters is a little fun time to time but I think it's there more as a gimmick to be perfectly honest. I will upload a video on this later on and update the entry. There is an ECO mode which can be enabled/disabled by a switch on the gear shifter console. Turning off the Eco mode will give you a more fun driving experience as the car is much more peppier. For more fun on an open road shift to S and use the shifters. I use the E03 expressway daily and that's where this car really feels home at. I mentioned the low end torque - around 2250 RPM there is a sweet spot and you can feel that pull. Due to it's dynamics the car feels very well planted and very stable at high speeds. You just feel the car hugging the road and hurtling forward - which is a really nice feeling. The handling is quite good -the steering is a little lifeless but adequately sharp and the ride is very controlled. I drive an SR which does not have the adaptive damper system found on the EX. The ride is generally smooth even with some potholes - though I cannot give any feedback about the rear since I've never actually traveled in the back seat. Road noise is something I've always associated with Honda's and once again this is no exception though the road noise insulation is comparatively better than that of smaller cars like the Fit. But it does a good job of cutting out the racket from that noisy 3 pot engine - which believe me is quite loud and rough when you actually open the hood and take a look. But inside the car it's generally quiet. To sum it up ... Cars with downsized engines for the sake of reducing emissions and improving gas-mileage are not meant to be fast performance cars in the first place. But Honda have tried to give the driver a bit of feel-good factor with the fake air vents and the paddle shifters and the overall 'sporty' feel. I wish it didn't have the CVT gear box and the steering was a little less lighter. But the noisy little 3 pot engine pulls really well given it's size and the weight of the car. The 1L Turbo Civic is no Type R but for a bird with clipped wings it flies pretty well. And now for the FAQ Section ---------------------------------------------------- [1] "Nice car bro how does it do on fuel ? " : I drive in generally bad traffic I wouldn't claim it to be the worst since I don't travel to areas like Rajagiriya/Dehiwala etc. And the car returns around 7-8 KMPL. On general I get about 10 KMPL in a 50-50 City/Suburban drive. On the Expressway I get around 6L/100Km which means about 16.6 KMPL. On the average long distance drive on non expressways depending on the time of the day the car will do between 12-16 KMPL. [2] "The car is a bit low isn't it? " : One fear I had earlier about the car before purchase is it's low ground clearance - somehow I have found it to be ok so far. I recently traveled on one of the most horrible roads I have seen in the western province - it was a tiny impossibly narrow dirt road with immense pot holes and pieces of rock jutting out leading to an almost forgotten home for the senior citizens where we had to give dinner. It was a hellish drive in pitch darkness but somehow i got through without a single scrape. For a better understanding I will try to upload some daytime pics of the said road. [3] "Aren't the back seats a bit cramped?" Leg-space wise no. There's quite a lot of leg space . The thing is due to the curved shape of the roof some may feel that head-space is a bit lacking. The only person to complain so far was my 6'3" /125Kg cousin. So unless you're some behemoth you are OK. Having said that I must say the Civic is a little too driver oriented with a lot of care given to the driver and lesser focus to the passengers: for instance the seat height adjustment is not available for the front passenger. It's a little darker in the back too.
  24. 1 point
    Anyone let us know the fuel consumption (in Sri Lanka) of Honda Civic 1.0 turbo hatchback
  25. 1 point
    This chip in the middle is the one you want to remove. It’s a M35080 EEPROM depending on the YOM of your car this would be a M35080 3/6, 35080-VP/V6, D80D0WQ. I don’t know if they are interchangable but I ordered the exact same chip that was soldered to the used replacement cluster. Whip out your soldering station. Kinda disorganized I know . Go for a hot air nozzle size that is kind of the same width as your eeprom chip since it will heat the lead solder on all of the legs at the same time and it will be easy to remove. Set it to something around 350 deg and set hot air speed to something on the low side. You don’t want other parts flying off while trying to remove the EEPROM. Tweezers, soldering wick and paste at the ready! EEPROM removed and old solder needs to be removed using your wick and soldering iron. Don’t throw away the chip just yet! We need to read it. So here’s where it got interesting. On the 1st try I soldered a blank chip on to the board, re assembled the cluster and tried to code it using NCSExpert and I kept getting an error saying the coding index was wrong. Then I tried coding using the official BMW software called Progman SSS v32, that didn’t work either. All the forum posts I read say it should work but no luck for me. So I had this idea to read the EEPROM data from the cluster I bought and to somehow erase the VIN and mileage and write it back to a blank EEPROM and solder that back on to the cluster. You can’t seem to do this directly on the chip that already exists on the cluster cause the area that stores mileage info is an incremental register and can’t be rolled back to 0. You can however erase the VIN, BUT be WARNED!! When the VIN matches the ones on your other modules like for example your DME and LSZ, it tries the sync the mileage across all modules. So if the mileage on the replacement cluster is larger than the actual mileage of your car it’ll increase the mileage info on all the other modules as well, and I guess there is no recovering from that one! If it’s lower, it should get updated with a higher value. But not too sure since I read somewhere that the mileage should be 0 or within 120km to sync properly. Anyway, this is where the R270+ programmer comes in. It’s comes with some really old software that seems to only work on XP or lower, so I installed that on to a Virtual Machine to do the read/write operations. What you do is you take the chip that you removed from the cluster and insert it into this guy Press the black square mount down and insert the chip. Make sure all the legs have good contact. The number 1 pin on this is the lower left most one. The EEPROM chip had no markings to indicate what pin 1 was and it worked if I put the chip so the text on it was upside down . Fix this on to your programmer box and fire up the software. Press "MCU" Select your EEPROM type, mine was a M35080 3 Press read and the main screen, click yes when it asks if it should check pins. If it fails at this stage, try mounting the EEPROM the other way around or try cleaning the legs with alcohol. The top two lines store your mileage. You want to edit it here and make them all 0’s
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