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  1. 6 points
    Vagina eke light wada lu...
  2. 4 points
    All mechanical work on the project Moggie will discuss here. This was the differential original status. Cleaned & painted differential Back brake liners were wet with leaked differential oil because of weak oil seals. Found matching oil seal from local market and hope it will fix the leaking. Cleaned & painted brake shoes with newly applied liners. Cleaned and painted leaf springs Present status
  3. 4 points
    Service brake = Brake Pedal next to the accelerator E-brake = Hand-brake/Parking brake 1. Apply Service brake fully 2. Shift the car to N 3. Apply E-brake fully 4. Release the service brake, Make sure the car is stationary (make sure the car is held by the E-brake) 5. Apply service brake again 6. Shift the car to P 7. Release the service brake 8. Switch the engine off Get used to this routine. You'll be doing it this way by muscle memory in no time
  4. 4 points
    Is there a way to find whether the cockpit room panels are digital or analog, before reserve air tickets ?
  5. 3 points
    Today, my review is based on one of the most frequently seen cars on SL roads; Toyota Axio Hybrid. Since the car was first introduced in 2012 only as a gasoline variant continuing the 1NZ-FE engine, the Hybrid variant was introduced in 2013. So most people went for the hybrid variant instead of going for the gasoline variant. The the car received a minor facelift in 2015 together with the addition of the Toyota Safety Sense C (link about Safety Sense C- https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/CFA_TSS_C.pdf). From the introduction, the car still remains as one of the most imported cars to SL. Here in this review I'm going to focus mainly on the driving dynamics and build quality. First of all, the looks. Yeah I know that it is not a head turner at all, but I really don't like the exterior look of the pre facelift variant (apologizing from all the owners). The facelifted version looks much better IMO but that is totally based on my personal opinion. Here my review is based on a 2014 Hybrid G variant. So I'll start with the topics. Interior We all know that most people were let down by the interior quality of the 2007-2011 Axio NZE141, due to really cheap and plasticy looking bits and pieces. So the newer version seems nice at the first glance. I really like the soft padding on the door panels and on the passenger side of the dashboard. When you close the door, you'll feel a bit of solidity. Design wise, 161 interior is better than the 141 in almost all the aspects except for the area where the gear shifter is located. On the 141 model the dashboard continues towards the front armrest as a one piece, but on the 161 it looks kind of seperated. This creates an empty space around the gear shitfter, giving the impression of a much more cheaper car. Watch closer and you'll notice the cost cutting effects which took place around the cabin. First one is the hard plastic dashboard top. On the previous 141 generation, the dashboard top panel was finished with a soft touch material. On the G grades, same material was continued on the upper parts of the door panels (dark grey part). But on the 161 Toyota have gone with the cheaper hard plastics. But they would not bring out the dashboard cracking issues which were existed on the 2007-2008 models. Main competitor of the Axio Hybrid, Honda Grace have a much more exciting interior with tons of silver insertings and colourful lighting in the dash. Compared to Grace, Axio's interior looks kind of bland for me, but the feels that it is a bit solid than the Grace. Seating is a bit improved from the 141. You'll get more side support on the front seats and seats are a bit softer (maybe due to the velvet like covers used). Front seating positions are okay and are mainly catered for a comfortable ride than a sporty ride. This car has a good rear seating position for tall passengers. On the Allion/ Premio thigh support is insufficient on the back seats due to lower positioned bench. But on the Axio Hybrid, thigh support is really good for tall passengers. Again you'll notice a cost cutting attempt on the back seats. Fixed headrest. Shame on you Toyota. You'll only get adjustable headrests in the Luxel variant, but there are only a few and those are gasoline versions. Leg space is okay and a bit better than the 141, but lacks when compared to Grace. Still most people would find the interior space is adequate. Options Almost equal to 141, but lesser than the Grace. You'll find Stability control and Electronic brake force distribution which was only available in the Luxel of the 141. Also you'll get nanoe (generates ions with water particles to reduce skin drying out when using the AC). From 2015 facelift, safety features became standard throughout all the grades. But thw two front tweeters came with the G limited and above variants of the 141 were absent. Actually there is nothing more to say about the options, so let's move on to discuss how it drives. Driving Once you sit on an Axio Hybrid you'll have to totally forget that you are in a driver's car. I mean "TOTALLY". Even from the earlier days most Toyotas are not famous for sportier rides, but there was a very little amount of enjoyment left. VERY LITTLE. But here, it is NONE. Even boring cars like Allions, Premios, 141s, Aquas, Prius and suprisingly the gasoline variant of the 161 Hybrid feels much more engaging to drive than the Hybrid Axio (But still miles behind other cars like Mazda Axela). I drove it on a twisty road and I got ZERO feedback from the steering. No weight. Numb. You can't predict how the tires would react to your input given through the steering. I almost met with an accident when I took a bend after speeding a bit on a straight road, because I was unable to predict how the car would react to the steering input given by me. The problem is when you drive the car at higher speeds you cannot predict the amount you'll need to turn the steering wheel to take the bend. Even the boat like Allions and Premios have a little weight to the steering which would help you a bit in this kind of occasions. Aqua shares the same powertrain with the Axio hybrid, but feels more nimble and sharper to drive. But this issue is less pronounced when you drive the car slowly. It is dead easy to drive and maneuver around the town due to this lightness. But on corners, the car has plenty of grip than the previous generation. I experienced a noticeable reduction in body roll when compared it with the 141 Axio. Also when you do over 100kmph the car feels well planted on the road than the previous gen ( 141 Axio felt like the car is flying, when the speed is over 120kmph). I remember that Toyota had repeatedly mentioned on their japanese site that the high speed stability was enhanced, at the time when the new model was first introduced. Then the acceleration. On speeds below 50-60kmph it has adequate torque. The motor gives sudden bursts of torque on demand, so it's easy in traffic and low speeds. When you put your foot down, for a brief period you'll really feel the assistance of the motor, but then it slowly fades away around 50-60kmph. For me it does not feel as fast as the 141 Axio ( Let's not compare it with the the Honda's equipped with i-DCD Hybrid System). The car weighs about 1150kg with 110 combined horsepower, but the 1310kg weighing Civic FD3 feels much more livelier and responsive even though it has the same amount of combined horsepower. Again, for day to day driving the powertrain is more than adequate. I know most of you feel disappointed about the driving dynamics about this car at this moment. But you should not forget that it's a Toyota's entry level hybrid. It serves all the purposes which it was intended to fulfill. A major plus point that you can experience in this car is the fuel economy. In freely moving traffic it gives around 15-17kmpl. Long distances would help to squeeze out around 25kmpl. I don't have much knowledge or details about the fuel economy levels, but I would be glad if owners can post the figures as comments. Then the smoothness. When compared to Honda's hybrid systems ; specially the i-DCD Hybrid systems in Fit, Vezel and Grace, the Axio Hybrid is silky smooth. The integration of the engine and the motor is seamless. You won't notice a single sign while the car changing from the motor to the engine, except for the slight engine whirling sound. As I mentioned earlier in this forum, there is a bit of as issue with the Honda i-DCD Hybrid system at the beginning of a steep hill. It feels like the gearbox is confused to choose the correct gear. You won't experience that in the Toyota. It just goes. The powertrain of the Toyota Hybrid system feels polished than the Honda's. Another benefit is the comfort level and refinement. The car is comfortable over bumps than the Honda's due to the softer suspension setup, but not as good as an Allion or a Premio. It's on par with the previous gen IMO. Road noise levels are also low and the hybrid system helps to eliminate the engine noise during lower speeds. I notice a huge difference in comfort and refinement levels in the Honda Grace when compared to the Axio Hybrid. Grace is bumpy and the suspension feels busy over bumps. Harder seats worsen it further. So for doing long distances Axio Hybrid is the best option due to the fuel economy and refinement levels. What we should not forget is that the purposes it was built for and those are economy and easy drive. Issues and Reliability Since I drove the car for a brief period, I cannot comment much about the reliability. The owner of the car (a close friend), I've driven bought it in 2014 as a Zero mileage unit and still owns it without an issue. Now the car has done around 60,000kms. I've heard about premature battery failure, but haven't met an owner who had to experience it. But there is a possibility for that due to the fact that it shares the same powertrain with the Aqua, which is famous for the same issue. Other than that, haven't heard about any complaints. Verdict At the end, all I have to say is that the Axio Hybrid would satisfy you if you expect what it can deliver at its best. Don't look for it expecting handling levels that would put a smile on your face. The issue of the steering wheel can only risky when you push the car to its limits, but if not, that is perfectly tolerable for a typical SL driver. I'd name it as a car which is perfectly suited for the typical SL driver. At the end I have to say that this review is based on none other than my personal experiences. Feel free to highlight the flaws and mistakes, as it would be helpful for my next review. Thank You for reading. -alpha17- For details about grades and variations, you can visit the links below 2012/05 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201205.pdf 2013/04 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201304.pdf 2013/08 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201308.pdf 2015/03 - http://cdn.toyota-catalog.jp/catalog/pdf/corolla-3/corolla-3_201503.pdf
  6. 3 points
    The GP1 is the hybrid variant of the 2nd generation FIT while the GP5 is the hybrid variant of the 3rd generation FIT. You can refer the Wikipedia article on the key differences of the 2nd and 3rd gen FITs. A few hybrid specific difference AFAIK are as follows: GP1 Based on Honda IMA Hybrid technology No full EV mode NiMH hybrid battery 1.3L engine, CVT transmission Conventional belt driven engine accessories (A/C compressor, Water pump etc) - So A/C will not work when engine stops at traffic lights etc. GP5 Based on Honda EarthDreams hybrid technology Full EV mode available Li-ion hybrid battery 1.5L engine, 7-speed dual clutch transmission (Shared with Vezel, Grace) All electric engine accessories (A/C compressor, Water pump etc) Hope this helps 😊
  7. 3 points
    try tapping 3/4 times on the display/ screen it might have got stuck. once my kelisa's speedometer was stucked at 20kmph where it won't go below 20 kmph mark even when stopped. I lived with it but one day a friend of mine who is a pilot was driving my car and when he saw it doesn't go below 20kmph mark he tapped on it which made it release immediately. Apparently, it is a common thing with old airplanes which have lots of analog dials too and what they do is tap on it like crazy.
  8. 3 points
    Welcome to the forum and thanks for the appreciation. People generally come here to ask a question, get their answer and never to return. But it seems like you have been a reader long enough to realise that the information shared in the forums is invaluable. Every regular and long term member is responsible for keeping it that way, so kudos to all. My advice to you is that you are just 17. You have your entire life head of you. What you make of it is totally up to you. To quote one of my favourite movies...
  9. 3 points
    Already 2 years completed under my ownership and odo is now 123,500km. Sorry for not updating the thread for a while. No special maintenance work carried out within the period, other than replacing the battery and few bulbs. Saturday I had some troublesome experience at Kandy. I could not shift gear from “P” to other positions. Immediately contacted Mr.Sisira Kumara (Service Advisor at Unit#d Mot#rs) and gentleman was very kind to help me over the phone giving instructions as follows, even it was a holiday for him. (1) Press the button on gear knob and check for some free play when it press. (2) If so, use shorter screw driver and remove two screws on gear knob. (Long screw driver cannot use here due to placement of CD changer) (3) Pull the knob up and then you can see white colour small plastic parts falling down. (Brittle) (4) Remove gear knob and now you can press the middle rod by your finger and can shift gears . So I could manage to bring the vehicle to Colombo without a trouble. The issue was due to damaged and ruptured Gear Shift Sleeve. It is a white colour plastic sleeve looks like a roll plug. Mitsubishi part number is MR581866 (Sleeve, Gear) and cost was Rs.1,109/=. Hence this sleeve replace and problem solved.
  10. 2 points
    Or a Civic- which was the reason behind me buying one
  11. 2 points
    GG7 (./GG8 = AWD) : Fit Shuttle 1.5L + IMA GP3 : Honda Freed..but it came with the 1.5L = IMA...the Freed never came with a 1.3L engine GP6 : Same size as the GP5....only difference is GP6 was the AWD variant.
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    spot On! I've driven both cars and to summarize: GP1 - Old school petrol car you really don't feel you're driving a hybrid it guzzles fuel like an ordinary petrol car too. A bit more rugged than the GP5. Other than the oil burn issue (factory defect in a set of cars) it's a nice old school trouble free car. In 3 years of ownership i only changed the wiper blades. If you can find a car with the oil burn issue fixed/ one that doesnt fall in the affected VIN # range you have a trusty old school car. Batteries have held out well so far I sold mine last year (6 years old 61,000 KMS done) with 75% usable capacity on the battery. GP5 - Puts a smile on your face. Peppy car with lots of pulling power. Nicer interior and more bells and whistles. 'Rockets out' is an apt description. I hate the gear shifter though puny little piece of plastic. People tend to fall in love with GP5s. Despite my warnings about potential DCT issues 2 of my friends after test driving GP5's fell in love with them and ended up buying them. ( One of them - a lady liked it so much that she already ended up ramming a parked Isuzu Elf ) Both models are fun and practical. Nowadays due to the lower price are good bargains.
  14. 2 points
    I’ll explain what are the differences you’ll notice. -GP5 is considerably faster than the GP1 and fun to drive. In terms of acceleration it is on a totally different planet when compared with Vitz and Aquas -Interior is nicely done in the GP5and has an upmarket look than the GP1, but same as the GP1 all materials are hard plastic -GP5’s Handling is a bit better than the GP1 -Some models of the GP1 came with the serious engine oil burning issue which is a real headache. But only a range of cars are affected. You can search in the forum form for their chassis number range to avoid. This was rectified in the GP5 and later GP1s -Comfort wise almost the same -GP5 has the faster wearing Dual Clutch gearbox, which tends to pack up around 80,000kms and above (due to the SL climate) -Both cars don’t have serious battery issues like the Civic Hybrid, but most of the GP1s would be in their final stages due to their age. -GP1 is a more like your usual Petrol car without any serious differences in driving experiences, and the powertrain is really smooth. But GP5 is filled with more electronics. You’ll get a Prius style gear shifter and a parking brake switch. I personally find that the powertrain of the GP5 is unrefined. Some times there is a delay to kick in the engine. But when you put your foot down it just rockets out. -I find that the driving the GP1 in the traffic is a bit hard until you get used to it, because when you leave the breaks the car feels like its in a hurry to go even without pressing the accelerator. Haven’t noticed that in the GP5. -GP5 is one of the most favourite cars that I would love to DRIVE.
  15. 2 points
    Well, at least the Alto might have better acceleration than the CS1... I guess Pity your father got rid of the CS before you had a chance to drive it... you wouldn't have let it go if you got a chance to "taste" it properly
  16. 2 points
    I've sort of been off the grid for a few weeks because of so many personal matters including moving house and what not. Finally found the time to post this. Meet the newest addition to our family. A 2003 Mazda 323 Astina SP20 BJ-II J48. Wait what?? Let me break down each part of that... It's a 2003 Mazda 323 (JDM version is known as "Familia"). I guess that's pretty clear. "Astina" is the name used for the hatch. The sedan is called the "Protege" (Remember the Mazdaspeed Protege anyone? 😍) SP20 is the top of the range model with a 2.0L FS engine (131 horses), sports suspension, different body styling, white gauge cluster, automatic AC etc. BJ is the series. BJ-II (BJ2) is the facelift version. J48 is the very last revision of the BJ series. I was on the lookout for a car to be used as a point A to B car and to be driven on a daily basis to the train station etc. I didn't want it to be boring, hence the SP20. I wanted it to be a small hatch so that my wife can easily drive it (she finds the RalliArt a bit too intimidating due to the power). It was between The 323 and Lancer CS VR-X. Gave up on the Lancer after seeing the options on the Mazda and how popular and rare the SP20 is (sounds like blasphemy I know). After about a month of hunting down one, finally found this beautiful example in Titanium Grey, just 139,000km (remember, we are talking about Australia here and that is a really low mileage). The icing on the cake is that I even got it with 1 year dealer warranty (car had been a trade-in). Of course there's signs of age - a few scratches here and there, wheel paint flaking off, front rotors need to be replaced etc. But it certainly is a zippy little car that's fun to drive. Nardi Torino steering! White gauge cluster The different front end with large fog lights. The FS engine. Note the factory fitted strut bar. I've not seen bonnet and headlight protectors in Sri Lanka, but the car has them installed from the dealership. So the headlights are like brand new -no yellowing. A couple of the SP20 stickers are faded. I've ordered a new set already.
  17. 2 points
    Madampe - Neluwa - Morawaka road is fantastic too. Carpet is smooth, not much traffic with lot of inclines and curves. Newer seen a cop 🙂 😉
  18. 2 points
    The Kurunegala - Puttalam road is pretty nice too
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    Get your learners permit and go for a drive around Colombo roads to see how enjoyable it is You'll love living in the country then
  21. 1 point
    Hi guys.. i am not a car expert but couldnt decide between the Audi A1 2018 or the honda civic 2018 hatch back. I live in nuwaraeliya and is it suitable for hill stations. The roads are fine hear and i will not be riding on a rugged road too.
  22. 1 point
    Very clean! This is how it should be done! Great stuff @kusumsiri.
  23. 1 point
    Hey everyone, So, I made the purchase yesterday! I thought I might have to put it on a car carrier and bring, but ended up driving it to kegalle, where my hometown is. The brakes need to be pumped twice to stop, but whatever. The car is parked for now and will most likely get started on the resto in about a month or so. Can’t make up my mind as to if I want to put ina new engine or rebuild the original 3au with new bits like and upgraded carb, and maybe some head work. It was lovely to drive. The engine is quite peppy and shifting through the five gears is quite fun! Will keep you all posted! Thanks for the support!
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    This chip in the middle is the one you want to remove. It’s a M35080 EEPROM depending on the YOM of your car this would be a M35080 3/6, 35080-VP/V6, D80D0WQ. I don’t know if they are interchangable but I ordered the exact same chip that was soldered to the used replacement cluster. Whip out your soldering station. Kinda disorganized I know . Go for a hot air nozzle size that is kind of the same width as your eeprom chip since it will heat the lead solder on all of the legs at the same time and it will be easy to remove. Set it to something around 350 deg and set hot air speed to something on the low side. You don’t want other parts flying off while trying to remove the EEPROM. Tweezers, soldering wick and paste at the ready! EEPROM removed and old solder needs to be removed using your wick and soldering iron. Don’t throw away the chip just yet! We need to read it. So here’s where it got interesting. On the 1st try I soldered a blank chip on to the board, re assembled the cluster and tried to code it using NCSExpert and I kept getting an error saying the coding index was wrong. Then I tried coding using the official BMW software called Progman SSS v32, that didn’t work either. All the forum posts I read say it should work but no luck for me. So I had this idea to read the EEPROM data from the cluster I bought and to somehow erase the VIN and mileage and write it back to a blank EEPROM and solder that back on to the cluster. You can’t seem to do this directly on the chip that already exists on the cluster cause the area that stores mileage info is an incremental register and can’t be rolled back to 0. You can however erase the VIN, BUT be WARNED!! When the VIN matches the ones on your other modules like for example your DME and LSZ, it tries the sync the mileage across all modules. So if the mileage on the replacement cluster is larger than the actual mileage of your car it’ll increase the mileage info on all the other modules as well, and I guess there is no recovering from that one! If it’s lower, it should get updated with a higher value. But not too sure since I read somewhere that the mileage should be 0 or within 120km to sync properly. Anyway, this is where the R270+ programmer comes in. It’s comes with some really old software that seems to only work on XP or lower, so I installed that on to a Virtual Machine to do the read/write operations. What you do is you take the chip that you removed from the cluster and insert it into this guy Press the black square mount down and insert the chip. Make sure all the legs have good contact. The number 1 pin on this is the lower left most one. The EEPROM chip had no markings to indicate what pin 1 was and it worked if I put the chip so the text on it was upside down . Fix this on to your programmer box and fire up the software. Press "MCU" Select your EEPROM type, mine was a M35080 3 Press read and the main screen, click yes when it asks if it should check pins. If it fails at this stage, try mounting the EEPROM the other way around or try cleaning the legs with alcohol. The top two lines store your mileage. You want to edit it here and make them all 0’s
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