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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/26/2020 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    @everyf4 your initial qualms are somewhat valid but i do need to set the record straight about some of the comments above. I do concede that a Forester might not work for your application if you need to be conservative in your choice when focusing purely on re-sale. However it is a glaring error to claim that Sri Lanka doesn't have proper agent - what would possess you to make such a claim?🤔 Senok (Grandpass) have held the agency for Subaru for nearly 30 years in Sri Lanka! They have, in my personal opinion one of the best after sales and service divisions amongst the plethora of car companies represented in Sri Lanka. Sure they don't have a network of islandwide workshops like Toyota Lanka or a fancy workshop like D*MO 800 has for Mercedes/Jeep but they have an excellent team who actually take time effort and pride in their work. At the risk of sounding like a commercial for Senok's Subaru division I should point out that the workshop itself in Grandpass was upgraded last year. I've owned 4 Subaru's and have dealt with them for over a decade so i'm not talking based on a one off experience. Aside from the agent Senok, there a number of others who provide technical expertise when dealing with boxer flat fours which got @Kavvz excited. Nilanka in Kottawa has been fixing, servicing, converting & even tuning race cars for years. Then there are others like Platinum Auto Spa led by Sabry Abdul Salam who handle their share of Subaru performance cars from the racing circles as well. On the subject of parts, again this is a market misconception. Please don't think this is being directed at you @everyf4 - i mean no offense. I only wish to clear the air on this subject. The agents themselves carry parts for the newer models and for the variants they imported brand new (which is the same as all other agents) In addition common service parts are a non issue. 90's-2000's Subaru's (like some other Japanese cars as well) also occasionally shared parts with other Japanese manufacturers so there are occasionally bits like brake components, sensors etc that match more commons Nissans etc. Personally I have opted to get down things I need from the following sites : www.rockauto.com www.rhdjapan.com www.partsouq.com They all deliver here with little to no drama. If you want used parts, then off the top of my head the following usually carry stock - Body parts, lights, etc: Izumi, Taiyo, PowerAutoLamps/Mirai in Delkanda Mechanical parts / performance parts : Pleasure Racing Nawinna Service parts : Supreme Motorhouse Highlevel Road Full conversion kits/ performance parts : Top Level Performance Kotte, Jayasinghe Enterprises Belanwila In addition there are a number of smaller vendors who hand carry parts and maintain stock who can be found on Facebook etc. There are 2 main owners clubs that are very active (Flat4orce/Subaru Owners Club Sri Lanka) & the Forester Owners Club The clubs offer support by way of advice, support with sourcing and in the case of the Forester club which I know even have annual events which have even included trips, off road track days, meet ups etc. So i'm sure by now @everyf4 it is clear that Subaru in Sri Lanka has far more support than you give it credit for. I will admit that I can't offer you first hand advice about repair assistance up in the hill country but perhaps someone like @AVANTE may have insights. I know there a few owners up in the hill country and one party who does Forester conversions and upgrades up there as well (Ruwan). Most who have owned a Subaru, especially a turbo Subaru rarely stray from the brand (at least not for long!) and many of us have or have had, multiple models over the years. I can go on and on, but I won't I'm not suggesting you get one because as @iRage rightly said, they aren't easy to sell in that it doesn't have the mainstream appeal that other cars have simply because they were a special proposition and not many were willing to live with the high fuel consumption of the turbo+All wheel drive combination, but those in the know come looking for them and will even pay a premium to get their hands on these kinds of cars that have often been cared for by owners who are more enthusiasts rather than people buying travel appliances.
  2. 3 points
  3. 3 points
    Thank you all, Good news... The cleaning of old thermal paste between the cpu and the heatsink then application of a thin layer of new paste (apply a pea sized squeeze to the center of the processor head, then make it a thin layer by using a business card) solved the problem. Total Cost : Rs. 100.00
  4. 3 points
    My budget was 7 to 7.5, I was trying to purchase it while keeping my old one, I could scrape up enough, for 3.8l As for the 3l, couldn't find a good example I even tried looking for the petrol 1st gen montero sport, Devindaz even guided me onto a few, never found one good enough, I'm not picky but atleast 50% reasonable condition is a must This one, 3.8l v6 with massaging seats, theres a handful here , it's got Rockford sounds as well. I've seen black and grey ones Those are JDM, distinctive 18 matte wheels and got a few extras. You ll turn the key again while the engine is running. It's that silent. And in tune so well, spurting water off the exhaust. Just ask unimo, they know The one I went to see was owned by a well off businessman, he was quoting 8.5 and was not bothered to even discuss a deal, well off budget. I'm not sure if it's worth the number. Mileage was 115k ish The 3l v6 ones go for 6.5 to 7mil, I guess the ideal no would be 8mil. It was like it rolled off the factory yesterday, that good, was sold within the week.
  5. 2 points
    Hope all of you doing good after lockdown!! After the pandemic, few cars start coming out of some of storage and collections so thought of spending/ investing money not a lot but about $10k. I was looking for a few “future classics” and I have drafted the below list during the lockdown. The list I have made as below, Corolla FX GT/ GT- I 16 (AE92) (Missed a GT-I 16 during the lockdown 😢) AE92 Levin – Mazda MX5 – NA specifically YOM 1990 Mazda Familia GTX Nissan Pulsar GTIR Celica SS-III 206 GTI 180 - Not JDM lol CK4 Lancer MR I have managed to score a bonus this weekend, I went to check MX5 and found Del Sol so I bought both for a good deal. Mazda MX-5 R2 Limited, only 500 were made. Honda CRX SIR – 97 NZ New B16A2 I have paid top $ for MX-5 since it is a special edition, so owner aware about that but I got a real bargain for the CRX. Works needed: MX-5 – Roof need to replace, cam lifers noisy, valve rubbers need to replace since it had done about 220,000KM CRX – Need to respray, F/R shock need replace, F/R lower arm bush need replace, F/L CV boots need replace, Cambelt kit needs to replace. Have a look at my above list and tell me what is your idea about the list, have a look at the cars and tell me what you think. P.S. MX-5 in transit will add more photos once soon
  6. 2 points
    Meanwhile in the US..🤦‍♂️ Never knew built in water fountain is a feature..🤣
  7. 2 points
    Hi guys, I have Mitsubishi C62A (known as ASP Model 1991). It has 4G15 engine and very powerful. But I'm not happy with the fuel efficiency of this car. And there is a black smoke as well. I just surf the new and found this car does 14km/1ltr (average). But my one is doing nearly 8km/1ltr (without AC). I was searching a solution through net since I'm really really tired with garages. I took my vehicle to a lot of place to solve this issue. But so far no good result. I found some instructions from a forum. This is about tuning the engine (4G15). Please check this and let me know your feedback since I'm going to try this on Saturday . 1) Warm up engine first(run 5-10 mins) 2)Shut off engine 3) Back out on the idle speed screw until it justt doesn't touch the throttle linkage. Then screw it in back about 11 turns (what this does mean actually?) 4) Screw in the A/F mixture screw until it stops(do not force tighten) 5) Screw out the A/F mixture screw 2 full turns 6) Start the damn car. It will run like its choking. As long as it's running it's ok. 7) Now turn in the A/F screw until engine dies. If this happens, turn out the A.F screw half turn at a time to bring it back. (try to start the car of coz) (what this does mean?) 8)Continue to turn out the A/F screw at half turns every 3 seconds. Engine will pick up speed. Continue to screw out until the point engine runs worse. When that happens screw back in half turn every 3 secs to the point engine runs smoothest.(do this by ear or watch engine vibration) (what this does mean?) 9) Now set the idle speed. Go on the air conditioner. Watch the tachometer. Turn in the idle speed screw until rpm is around 900 to 1000 rpm. 10) Now it's ready to rumble.. black smoke also caused by KO piston ring (what this does mean?).. check the compression Guys, please let me know your feedback, is it ok if I follow this to tune my engine? Only problem is my AC is not working. So will it be a problem for me to follow these steps since it says that I need AC to be on during the process. Please advise. Will this help to get a good fuel efficiency and stop black smoke?
  8. 2 points
    It was the larger ones who stated this in the first place way back in the 80s. In 1987ish my dad wanted to buy a car and all he could find were not very good cars...coincidentally mom went to Japan during that time on a work trip and dad went specifically to buy a car (got an EE80 for 280,000LKR after taxes). There after he started importing cars for a few of his friends and acquaintances. At that time it was mainly the big car dealers...famous one from Kandy/Mahagastota, then another one who had a showroom next to a girls'school in Bamba...plus one or two more. The smaller homegrown sellers were the more honest ones. In fact some of these large car salesmen were caught out in Japan when a famous exporter over here was caught welding up cars together as part of their reconditioning process. This is why the whole "recondition" certification was stopped back in the mid/late 80s.
  9. 2 points
    Hi I just wanted to educate people to get rid of such trouble, I also had an experience of it, I bought a car with very low mileage however after short running I realized that car engine was too exhaust & much oil consumed. thus I want to prevent such trouble to other people Rgds
  10. 2 points
    @tiv in my hunt I also noted that the interiors on most Montero's were subpar. Cracked plastics, discolourations, seat rips, rattles.... Compared to other higher end vehicles i thought the interiors were a let down. We used a brand new imported Montero IO for a decade and a half almost and it was the picture of reliability and the interior was solid so it was a real let down to think the big brother premium full size Montero wore so poorly
  11. 1 point
    I have cefiro a33 auto. Does around 8 in colombo city and outstation 10-12. I've been using about 6yrs. Don't ask from people who never had it.
  12. 1 point
    Have been looking for a MX-5 in SL. Only handful in SL, most of them are molested good ones are not for sale. 😞
  13. 1 point
    Finally!!! An interesting thread.!!! And Congrats on the purchase.! Just my two cents worth : CRX / Del Sol Personally not a fan of the design, I`d rather a 1st gen. Never driven one though, so dont know how they are like to drive. But the B16 is the party piece in there, should be a nice reliable little screamer once sorted properly. Those wheels does not look original though? Something like Enkei RPF1`s would look great, nice and light and easy to find. Mx-5 This is right up my ally!! Great buy! The best-bang-for-the-buck sports are ever! I mean, a properly/purposefully designed sports car with double wishbone suspension in all 4 corners.! Mazda pumped out 'special edition' Mx-5`s whenever they felt like it, so I wonder what exact features this one is having? Is this an NA6 (1.6 ltr) or NA8 (1.8 ltr)? And the year?
  14. 1 point
    Golly! Well knock me down and call me stupid- I believe you're right! Good catch @Devinda_Z Man, that last 'bot' / spam post had me in completely as the link was accurate as was the approach: Wow! The 'bots' are getting smarter these days...( Or am I loosing brain cells? - Very possible too 😄 )
  15. 1 point
    @Kavvz i wonder if those are bot/spam posts If you notice there have been random posts from newbies with no prior posts but always with a link or url to an outside website added🤔 Colour me skeptical or 😅
  16. 1 point
    Supreme mostly has norml parts (new), filters and other consumables. They generally carry decent products, inventory for Subaru's and reputed brands. The family that owns Supreme is directly connected to Pleasure Racing Services. They have a good selection of parts for JDM performance cars in stock usually. I bought a used genuine branded/original item from Spec-J and had it couriered to me with no issues about 3-4 years ago. The part worked well 👍 In general, I am rather sceptical of vendors selling anything which looks like something that could have been sourced from Malaysia or China (despite the fancy boxes with barcodes!) As an example on hoses, I once got a quotation from Time Motorsports in the UK. They are an authorised reseller of SAMCO genuine products and I was directed to them by SAMCO themselves. The cost of a full kit of silicone hoses was GBP 680 approximately, excluding shipping! This begs a question as to how so many locally seem to be able to offer similar "Samco"silicone hoses for under LKR 20k with images which look suspiciously similar to those on AliExpress ads....😅 There are plenty who have suffered catastrophic component failure running these "duppa"or "replica" parts simply because they're either too naive to know or too cheap to splurge on the real deal.
  17. 1 point
    Sanjeewa is the main guy there. He used to work at an euro dealer in the middle east if I remember correctly.
  18. 1 point
    Interesting question. My opinion would be that it's not a simple answer as sample A or B. The result would probably change on whether the oil used is mineral, semi or fully synthetic and even by brand. The exact grade (0W30 VS 0W40 for example) might skew the result. So I think you'll have to consider multiple samples from different types, brands and grades to come up with a complete answer. Also, the environment variables you've stated are not mutually exclusive. Relative humidity is inversely proportionate to ambient temperature for example. So the experiment is assuming somewhat hypothetical conditions. Have you tried searching online? You might be able to find research papers that help (maybe not the same thing, but it will help get an idea).
  19. 1 point
    Already checked ITI for oil sample analysis but they have no such facility for motor oils. As I remember, they will provide the service for food related oils only.
  20. 1 point
    Japan on picky on their funded projects mostly because of corruption. Generally their funding is with softer terms without ulterior motives compared to China. Most of the Japan funded projects in SL got scrapped because there were no room for corruption to the extent our politicians wanted.
  21. 1 point
    And this gets worse, biggest scam I've heard and the extent one goes to cheat. Buy a car give it on rent clock 50-60k per year Half way through change tires and keep originals Prior to emission check clock the car back to 6-7k, do a service at the agent. Do this for 2-3 years, do a nice valet, refit original tires and sell the car. A car with with perfect history low mileage 20-30K with agent maintained records and emission history, actual mileage 150-160K Oh by the way they generally replace the steering and the gear knob Hope this scam can be checked with ECU data
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Fuel Filter is located inside the Fuel Tank with pump right? What is the average mileage for cleaning Fuel Filter with Sri Lankan Dirty Fuel? (I mean the condition of the Fuel Sheds)
  24. 1 point
    The website says its happening, but last I heard they didnt want to go ahead with it saying too costly or something or the other. http://www.themorning.lk/light-rail-transit-project-changing-tracks/ This is why the country doesnt go forward, someone implements something good and the person coming in totally does away with it. We need long term plans and not these short term plans to put your name on. I am very hopeful that after all this Corona situation everything would change for the better, right now it doesnt seem so but am still hopeful.
  25. 1 point
    Fuel tank clean up is least of the worries you should spend time on a GP1. Guess regular checking of the engine oil levels will be more helpful around this mileage.
  26. 1 point
    If it helps I had a Vitz 1.3 2007 for 4 years and regularly did Colombo to Nawalapitiya through Ginigathhena which included narrow and rough estate roads at my relations village. Ground clearance is bit low at 145mm but still it always got where i want it to be without a sweat.
  27. 1 point
    You should really really really change your perception about this. All garages, including a monkey with a wrenchm would say they know the Vitz because it is a simple 4cyl engine...which is exactly the problem with these cars. People think that it is simple and take it to maka baases who completely and utterly screw up the car with sub standard parts and random works around. These people treat modern engines the same way they treated E80 Corolla engines from the 80s because it is Toyota and because it is 4 cylinder. Yes..it is a simple 4 pot engine..but there really is nothing simple about new 4 pots....newer engines, in the interest of emissions and fuel efficiency, have all kinds of gizmos attached to it. Even the engine materials used are much more advanced compounds than in the 80s (for heat absorption and dissipation). Even the simple act of not using a torque wrench to tighten a valve cover could cause the thing to warp. So...even for a Vitz..you need to take it to a proper garage. They are not cheap (as the maka baases would be)...and for them there really is not much difference between a Vitz and a Forester. Having said that...I doubt owning a Subaru in or around Kandy is as difficult as you claim it to be. There are quite a few Subaru owners in Kandy I know of. As you go about looking for a car you will see what I mean....you will find a lot of crap out there that is "agent maintained" but you see that apart from a periodic service, repairs and other matters have been handled by monkeys with wrenches. On the other hand...did we talk about the possibility of a Lancer ? These are export model variants with decent amount of ground clearance and for the most part they have been taken care of.
  28. 1 point
    Thats one good post ! I appreciate the input ! I take back the "Lack of agent network " I dont doubt subarus ability to corner and the flat four performance I live in the hills I do not travel to colombo by vehicle, lets say if I get a flat4 as you said the pros are in colombo, I dont want to travel to colombo for a regular service or to search for a part (these are machines with a lot of moving parts again I have to factor in repairs) Ive been to garages for the every for a simple repair if its a forester nope dont wanna think about it ! then the cost of spares / repairs / services I don't want to get into this ! Again and again I am going for the vitz mainly its a simple car, spares are available with in kandy through local spare parts mudalailis even if I want an engine its in kandy, I dont have to search for a pro cuz most of the garages knows whats inside a vitz a simpletons 4 pot ! This is going to be my first car and as others pointed out I am not going to hit apexes, attack corners nor stick to racing lines ! Again mazdas, subarus are good cars no doubt ages ahead of crappy over priced toyotas yet at the end of the day I want a normal car with the keyword "convenience" So NO to subarus ! Thanks you for the input @Devinda_Z
  29. 1 point
    Okay usually I chop down quoted material for brevity but in this case I won't / don't want to: Because honestly this is the best post I've seen since I logged back into Autolanka-Kudos @Devinda_Z If THE POST ABOVE doesn't convince you to buy a Subaru / Subaru Forester I don't know what what will !!
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    This is a rollercoaster of a thread! Started with a guy looking for something that can navigate a corner at 30kmph without the passengers (without seatbelts?) sliding across. One dude suggested a Forester @everyf4 will be hitting apexes in perfect racing lines! Overkill. But my heart says go for it before someone talks you in to buying a 141! The inner pragmatist in me suggests you test drive a decent sedan. Pretty much any sedan has significantly less body roll than the every. A wagon such as a fielder offers decent body roll with space. Give it a test drive.
  32. 1 point
    Why would you want to clean the fuel tank specifically? Is 53 k the overall mileage of the car? It's a bit too low for a car of that age.
  33. 1 point
    They even alter mileages of the CLA and C200 2019, sadly we have very poor examples as agents with a buttload of crap or indian waste being offered as brand new cars, hence these crooks have become the most well off society in this country.
  34. 1 point
    Oooh yes ! A Forester ! They have been owned by proper motorheads so the chance of finding a really good example is easy too. Yes...it is so so so much fun. The only downside is when it is time to part with the car..you will not be able to find a good replacement for it Most other cars will be somewhat bland after the Forester.
  35. 1 point
    1. No..some European cars had it...so maybe they still do. Japanese cars do not have it. They do not need it in Japan as the mileage gets recorded every year or every other year. Changing it is quite easy....there was a Fifth Gear episode where they showed a reformed crook changing the mileage in less than a minute 2. Well..there is an association of car sealers in Sri Lanka...but they are made up of the crooks who do these things. So..uh...bit of miss. The government's fraud and consumer protection agencies are not interested in the matter and the legal framework is simply not there to protect buyers from this.
  36. 1 point
    Nah it's easy as pie if you have the correct tools. Maximum cost is 5k.
  37. 1 point
    Oh! Good one @Devinda_Z Now we're cooking with fire: Subaru Forester for the win! And are we talking Forester XT here? For I'd sell a Harrier for one of those!! (I'd still rank the Harrier 1st if comfort is a priority, but if it's down to Rav4 vs Forester then I'd get the Forester...And if you can find a Forester XT- Oh mama! Then its bye-bye Harrier! )
  38. 1 point
    I know @everyf4 said no left field brands but if a Harrier or RAV4 are in the fray perhaps consider a Subaru Forester ? Or even an Impreza or Legacy wagon? AWD, heaps of space and Japanese reliability with excellent manners on or (light) off road👍 If you bag one with a turbo you're in for a treat!
  39. 1 point
    Woha that a big markup! Plus just because you paid 1 mil more, there's no guarantee that there won't be any further repairs. But still there is something to be said for buying a well-maintained vehicle vs one owned by a cheap skate who has run it to the ground! However a full 1 mil is a pretty steep premium.... I suppose this paticular vehicle you mentioned above is one of the vehicles you looked at when were considering the switch from the diesel to the petrol varient? If so, how much of a market premuim would you have accepted for that one?
  40. 1 point
    Reliability Diesel and petrol in our context are equally reliable, If fact ive seen lesser problems in the petrol one. Diesel 4m40 has all the classic 4m40 issues pls search and most are manual 3.2 l 4m41 needs super diesel, timing chain kit issues are common, typical diesel engine hoo haa, pulley bearings etc The petrol one is super smooth, but not that gutsy. Gearbox feels pretty much the same in both. Both are equally noisy 2 to 4kmpl and 95 oc is advised , pls do not get optimistic on the fuel figures, they are not cheap to run, do not buy If fuel economy is a concern. 7kmpl is highly exaggerated and hard to reach even in a diesel The main problem is most of these vehicles are poorly used and maintained by cheap skates Run on poor quality petrol, mileages clocked back. Masked gearbox issues, hidden CELs, skipped preventive maintenance Poor botched repairs on suspension etc So find a good one and u are set for life, or look for another car. Dont try to get the cheapest one in the classifieds. I own a diesel one for ages, looked for a petrol recebtly one, and gave up due to the bad examples in the market. Do not buy a lemon keeping a margin of like 500,000 for repairs, bits are far more expensive and some repairs can only be done by the agents. Instead search hard and find a good car To add there is a marvellous 3.8l petrol variant, tight as a drum and super duper smooth, extremely silent but about 1 mil more expensive
  41. 1 point
    Thanks,,,, Today, I cleaned and reapplied thermal paste between CPU and HeatSink, waiting for the outcome..... Graphics Card could be also a culprit.... need to check that out Meantime,I installed the freeware "Open Hardware Monitor" and trying to figureout what get heated up :{
  42. 1 point
    Finding the exact root cause of the issue might be tricky IMO. I experienced a similar situation some time back on my gaming Pc. Checked motherboard,CPU ,Memory sticks and even the PSU.They were all good. Then I checked the Graphics card. Ripped it apart and cleaned the dust. That did the trick.
  43. 1 point
    They have a supplier in SL I agree with Kavvz, as its a family vehicle I would be more concerned about comfort, space and practicality than cornering speed. If you switch to a small hatchback you will lose out on interior space and because yours is the Wagon variant of Every, you might notice a drop in comfort as well. Also you may not get the features what you get now such climate control AC, 5 speaker sound system, powered sliding doors, xenon lights or ease of getting in and out(especially for older people) I have driven both the Every van and Every wagon, it definitely didnt handle like a car but it wasnt something to complain about. Drive another van similar to yours and compare whether the body roll is similar.
  44. 1 point
    You are not going to find many around sadly...so take your time. Yes..I agree the only Harrier that will fit your budget would be a somewhat badly used 1st gen one....other options might be 1st and 2nd gen RAV4s. Again..I keep going back to the Terios/Rush. Yes..it is fine for a city runner..but anything out of that...absolutely not. Even if it means running on the highway. There are plenty of kei cars over here running on the highway and they just fly (mostly pushed by the wind) and those things are screeching their engines out. The problem in Sri Lanka is the taxes. Because of the taxes pushing the vehicle prices up and the level of income in the country, buying a car becomes a huge investment. So people put it to all sorts of use as possible and try to keep its resale value as high as possible to get a decent ROI.
  45. 1 point
    You may check all fluids under the bonnet +battery water and the tyre pressure every time you fill up. TT.
  46. 1 point
    So I surprisingly received a call from S******d Motors regarding an online complaint I filed against them a month or so back. It was entered into the system against my vehicle number and I received an acknowledgement so here's hoping they take this into consideration. If they do the vehicular equivalent of "spitting on the fries" by adding some sugar into my engine oil at the next service in response, I'll be sure to let you all know as well Here's the excerpt (company name redacted): Customer Complaint Dear Sir/Madam, Thank you for your complaint which is received by us and has been recorded for monitoring the corrective action. We always value your feedback to help us improve our service delivery. ID: CMP10197 Date: 2020-05-18 Process: A/M After Sales Customer: Misnad Haque Category: Quality related complaints Failure: Customer has several complaints about Rathanapitiya Automobile Workshop. 1.Adding wrong lubricants. 2.Low quality paint job. 3.A/C repairing issue. Presented below is the original:- " My vehicle (Civic 2018 FK hatchback) was personally imported from the UK in 2018 direct from the factory through an intermediate handler. At the very first service I performed at S******d Motors Rattanapitiya, my car was fed 5W-30 semi synthetic oil (Mobil Super 2000), which goes against the ACEA standards and fully synthetic recommendation in the manual. Upon challenging them, I was told that fully synthetic oils lead to sludge formation even on new engines, which if I'm not mistaken is incorrect. I had to force them to use 5W-30 Fully Synthetic ACEA A5 Castrol Edge oil from the next service onwards. Secondly, I had to get my antifreeze topped up and they had used an off-branded one (Seiken) claiming that it was as good as the one recommended (Honda Antifreeze Type 2) and mixing the two was harmless. The manual states otherwise. What is even stranger is that being a dealer for genuine parts and the Honda service line, you do not even carry the genuine lubricants. Regardless, I eventually had to take the car back for bodywork repairs after a minor accident on the rear left passenger door. The body-shop in Rattanapitiya managed to repair this and paint it, however there were awful paint drip marks as well as over-spray all over the car, which I had to clean up at a different detailing center. Another service was done and the Rattanapitiya service center hadn't fitted the glove-box dampener properly and I had to return to get that done. This happened to me thrice so far. I eventually had issues with a foul odor from the AC system and the service advisor at Rattanapitiya simply said that nothing could be done about it apart from me having to use some charcoal overnight in the cabin area or run the blower on high with the heater engaged. They were extremely reluctant to inspect even the cabin filter or drain tubing. After a while, my AC system sprung a leak and I had to ge t the condenser replaced. As I was out of warranty, I had to pay a hefty sum to do this. However, they claimed to be out-of-stock on the condenser so I had to get it replaced elsewhere. The foul smell from the AC was back and upon getting it inspected at a different service center (Hybrid Hub), they had identified traces of rodent entry just by looking at the cabin filter. I took the car back to S******d Motors Rattanapitiya since I preferred having a dealer to clean up the evaporator and vent system. I was then informed that they did not have R1234yf refrigerant at all nor did they have a recovery machine for it in case they needed to recharge it if the evaporator was removed. To my surprise, they claimed that the same refrigerant could be mixed with R134a via adapters and they had done it for numerous other vehicles. Agreeing to all this and leaving it to their better judgment, I asked them to also swap out the cabin filter and clean up the whole AC system. They replaced the activ ated charcoal filter that was originally in place with a standard paper filter and I can now smell fumes from outside air coming even though the AC is on recirculation mode. What's even worse is that they claimed to clean the unit, however only used a blast of compressed air in the vents. Further, on inspection myself they had also closed the exterior vent flap without my permission and hence it was only stuck on recirculation without the ability to ventilate. I had to return back later in the day to get this fixed. The foul odor returned a day later and I had to take matters in my own hands so I had to purchase and use a foaming evaporator coil cleaner, which I used. It did reduce the odor significantly, however I still need to get the evaporator cleaned. In summary, I am utterly disappointed with the service and knowledge level of your staff as it seems they are unable to handle newer vehicle models. This is the first and last time I will ever purchase a Honda in Sri Lanka and it is all because of your incompetence. Thank you. "
  47. 1 point
    Smell was back as the compressed air flush of the vents wasn’t sufficient (thank you Sta**ord! 🤬). Got a can of BG Frigi Clean evaporator foam cleaner and did it myself by passing the tubing through the blower motor assembly. Total time taken: 30min. The AC is now draining perfectly as I can see a steady stream of water (initially some brown stuff) coming out of the drain tube under the car. Here’s a guide so anyone reading can do the same without spending big money at idiots’ garages. 1) Remove the glove-box by following instructions in the owner’s manual (carefully unhook the dampener) 2) Open the cabin filter cover making note of the airflow direction indicator (downwards). You need to press on the two side clamps to release it 3) Pull out the filter from the slot to expose the blower motor assembly below 4) Shake the can of FrigiClean and attach the tubing to its nozzle 5) Cut off the other end of the tubing if it has a screw adapter nozzle as it won’t fit through the blower motor 6) Pass the tubing through the blower motor (important to get the tubing past the fin otherwise you’ll damage the motor) 7) Spray the can until empty and foam will fill through the assembly all the way into the evaporator. If you see or feel foam backing up into the motor fins, stop immediately and withdraw the tubing 8 ) Replace the cabin filter cover only (without the filter) and start the engine 9) Switch AC blower on Full and temp Lo with standard ventilation (face). recirculate mode off. 10) Watch the stuff coming out out of the drain tube under the car and leave it running for 10min 11) Switch off the car and replace the cabin filter into position while closing the lid (cabin filter airflow direction has to be downwards). 12) Re-fit the glovebox but first get the dampener hook attached (it’s very hard to do this after you’ve got it into the hinges) 13) Leave the car unused and unoccupied for 30min and you’re good to go!
  48. 1 point
    Managed to get the whole thing cleaned out with a blast of air through tubing into the evaporator core. Blower area was cleaned out today too and swapped the cabin filter. Did this at the dealer though since the other place wasn’t too sure about the dashboard elements that needed removing and they didn’t want to accept the job without a stock of r1234yf. Turns out the dashboard didn’t need to be removed as the evaporator didn’t contain any gunk so it may have been a visit, defecate and run expedition the rats were up to. Guess they needed to use the loo in a cold place. Cabin filter cost me 12k and they added more mesh around 2 other ventilation spots that the other place didn’t inspect. Total bill was 18k and I don’t get the stench for now plus I’m protected from the critters. Extremely lucky that they didn’t bite into anything apart from a bit of plastic under the hood. Oh by the way, the dealer told me today that they don’t use r1234yf even though they quote about 80k for a recharge since they don’t have it nor do they have a machine to exchange it. Was told that they just add r134a and that it was ok to mix the two as they have done it before. Good thing I did my condenser at the other AC place 😀. On another note, I think I’m going to write a book titled, “The chronicles of a Civic: the dealer, the aircon and the rat”!
  49. 1 point
    My civics A/C was also causing troubles. I found a local AC repair person who was willing to do it for the first time. He and I got together and removed the condenser without removing the front bumper somehow. We removed the cross bar which the radiator fits in with some other cables and stuff and push the radiator backwards and managed to unscrew the nuts of the condenser and took it out. I found a brand new condenser for 32k from my local AC repair persons contact. We fitted the thing and refilled the gas and now its working fine again. All done with 50k
  50. 1 point
    Your idiot greese monkey will be the death of your autobox. Turning on the engine with no fluid in the transmission is a recipe for disaster.
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