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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/12/2020 in all areas

  1. Good stuff @Hoonigan! The look on the guy's face when she takes off says it all. ? Can't believe this thread has been dormant for nearly 4 years!
    2 points
  2. Update. Bought the front 2 seats. Black. Kinda sporty. Good back support and very good hold. Will be wrapped in leather. As of now, the Jeep is at the Canopy place. We will get it back on Thursday. Things being done- Full Canopy-Black. Rear seats(made to custom order.wraped in leather.black) Full floor carpeting(the plasticky material. Gonna put rubber carpets after.) Front seats will be installed. Last pic is after a paint. We wanted some places redone,because ocd. So the pic you see is not the final product.
    2 points
  3. If you had the courtesy to search the forum, you would have almost found all answers in one go. Anyways 1. Ride comfort similar to a 120 Prado, it’s not as uncomfortable as a pickup other than the anterior part of the chassis the rest is totally different. Including certain engine parts and tune. lot of bullshit being circulated by car sales people to discourage the model so that they can sell the jdm imports. In Australia and most countries in 2012 the Montero Sport competed with the 150 Prado in the market. 2. None of the Diesel or petrol SUVs are good on fuel, the market is a complete fake mirror, they bloat 13kmpl and hybrid fuel figures. realistic figures long distance 7kmpl and traffic 2 - 4 kmpl, yes it’s diesel. If you are looking at an suv of this size, please don’t focus on fuel figures, you will be terribly disappointed. 3. Market values range from 6.2 to 6.5 - 2wd or manual models 6.8 up for GLX models Auto , 7.5 up for GLS models (rare) 8mil up for 2014 models (rare) black being the cheapest, pearl white being the most costly and demand (rare) 150000km mileage is nothing for the gear on the suv so don’t worry there. Truth is most of the so called 72000km posts by the buy and sell boys on fb have crossed 200,000km. Buy from an honest 1-3rd owners 4. Faults are very rare, the Timing belt change is a costly affair about 150,000lkr job they chew through brake pads roughly every 20000km running repairs similar to any mid size or large suv, look for an exclusively company maintained vehicle for you to be safe from mileage issues as well and hidden horrors. also do not go by the owners as most 1st real owner cars are 3rd owner on the book CR as the agent purchased permits and ordered and did a same day transfer And paid transfer tax, some ordeal to deliver the cars soon. I don’t know how the second party came in but I’ve seen several CRs with the same thing. Mine is not a permit one. agents had most parts, and delkanda sellers also have parts apparently. 5. You have to check if the luxury taxes have been paid, whilst insuring the vehicle. there should be 7 installments with receipts check this http://www.motortraffic.gov.lk/web/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=93&Itemid=126&lang=en they are nippy yet robust vehicles, lot of fun off road, cheap to run and have a lot of road presence. and again search the forum, you will find more. PLEASE NOTE, DO NOT GO FOR THE CHEAPEST CAR IN THE MARKET, as unimo claims approx 44 00 vehicles came to the market, the abused ones, people try to pass off as cheap. Buy a well maintained one, or search harder.
    2 points
  4. Since my last update, I ran into some trouble getting the engine to run smoothly. Wouldn't start properly, when it finally did, wouldn't idle properly, had no torque (caused the clutch to burn out) and it was cracking spark plugs on a daily basis. After much frustration, found someone who is familiar with the fuel system (Bosch K-Jetronic) and the repair involved the 6 injectors being replaced, all 6 spark plugs being replaced with genuine NGK plugs, new air filter, new clutch and pressure plate and a list of other parts to clean up the cold start module and ignition system. After this, the engine was tuned up and it could easily break traction and leave 11s on the road despite the 255 rear tyres Retrofitted an AC and plumbed it to the two heater vents on the dash and tucked everything else under the dash so that the presence of an AC system is completely out of sight. Wired the AC to a simple on/off toggle switch (see pics) The whole upholstery was done from scratch. Nowhere fancy as Deans but the job turned out to be pretty good. I got the dash fascia laser cut out of black plexi. Rear seats were ditched and the SSCUS buckets went in the front. The steering wheel is a Grant Challenger piece. Finally had the car running this weekend on a Cars and Coffee SL Sunday run and covered around 60-70Km in light traffic and a little bit of 'spirited' driving. The car has buckets of torque low down and 3rd gear is really something else. The long run also revealed some issues I need to address. The rear drums lock up early and tends to slide the rear out clockwise and I felt a general lack of stopping power with the fronts as well. Rear leafs are nowhere near stiff enough and the gearbox hums in neutral and first. In closing, the car will continue to be worked on for years to come but this feels like a good time as any, to bring closure to this thread. In the three years I've spent so far with the Capri, I've made my fair share of mistakes and screw ups but each of them helped me learn something I didn't know. And more than anything, provided a much needed distraction during some tough times. All in all, I love owning this car, even with all the imperfections! All but one of the pics below are thanks to Cars and Coffee Sri Lanka. Thanks for reading gents!
    2 points
  5. Not sure about this particular unit, but @Davy has posted a pretty good response with very specific suggestions. I would look at that and follow-up. Otherwise go with what @kmeeg posted. That's what I have and I have found it adequate as mentioned.
    1 point
  6. Oh my bad: I thought it was $85 or something... Sorry for the confusion then!
    1 point
  7. Thanks guys! been a while since I came around to this thread. This video was shot a few years ago. Took a bit of time to edit and upload by the content creators. I didn't mean to be rude or blunt (I didn't realise it came across as such) I think it was important to be honest. I was fairly uninformed with some of the decisions made with this car and it shows. It isn't a perfect weapon of a car. Doesn't make me love it any less though :D
    1 point
  8. Normal Just low (wider and smaller rear wheel)
    1 point
  9. You mean remove the rust and just spray under-body coating ? No....clear the rust....then primer it...paint it....just like any other panel....then decide if you want to put any sealant on or not (sometimes before putting any final/clear coat. I can attest to @varotone's friend's experience...the Trueno had the thing sprayed on it...but the coating stayed on in the form of a shell but the metal underneath was rusted out. I might not agree directly with being put on brand new cars...but I think what he would have meant was that the coating has to be put on pretty much a completely clear and clean surface and it needs to be put on properly with absolutely no gaps or open creases (as that would cause water to go through and to make it works the undercoat would trap it.
    1 point
  10. I as waiting till @tivcommented first I have not owned a Montero Sport but have used one against a Fortuner. Also know a few who had them. 1. Yes...the Montero Sport competed in the same segment as the Prado in some markets. However..NOT s direct competitors and only as an entry level competitor along side the likes of the Fortuner, MuX and Everest. However it is not entirely fair to compare those market models with what we have in SL as those were quite loaded with tech and features which we don't necessarily get in SL (most of out vehicles were imported as base models because of the taxes here). 2. Compared to the previous model which was the Challenger (in some markets it still was called the Challenger) and the Fortuner....the one you are looking at is bouncy. It is not that it is horribly uncomfortable or anything it has this jitteriness to it and never feels like it settles down in the road. I reckon it has something to do with the stiffness and the harsh recoil the suspension it has which does not take its time to gently release any suspension absorption. It is felt both on-road and off-road and takes away a bit of that sure-footed,secure feeling you need on a high center of gravity car. I am not saying the Fortuner is much better...but it slightly is..but when the road dissapears the Fortuner does feel a lot more predictable than the MS. Having used the Fortuner...intermittently sitting as a passenger and even as the driver in the MS always felt a little bit uneasy like being kept on stilts. Know a few MS owners who managed to topple their MS side ways and even have the rear end spin out because of it. ..as for the comment about being as comfortable as a 120 Prado... @tiv and I are going to have to agree to disagree on this....it might come close to the 120 Prado's ride comfort but not equal to it...the seats and a slightly softer suspension makes the Prado a bit more refined in absorbing bumps and humps. Also..lets not forget...the 120 Prado is an older generation whilst the Montero Sport is newer. 3.The MS has much better throttle response. Even in a small engine config the engine and the gearbox does a lot better job in quickly delivering that power and torque....the Fortuner is somewhat lazy in that department and you have to literally flog the engine to get the car to move. 4. The MS feels plasticy inside just like the Fortuner. Some parts feel weaker...some parts feel more chunkier...but the interior of the MS was much more utilitarian looking whilst the Fortuner was..well..dainty (in the higher grades and the lower grades felt like it was a car from the 80s). 4. The body on the other hand feels quite solid and heavy compared to its competitors. The Fortuner felt like a tin can. 5. The MS...dollar to dollar you get more equipment than in the Fortune 6. It is more engaging to drive than the Fortuner....but it is a car you need to get used to driving to understand its road holding manners and not have you get yourself in a tight pickle. 7. One thing I always found humorous was the 3rd row seat...it was a fold down seat which sunk down in to the floor .It gave a lot more space than in the Fortuner (which had its 3rd row seats hanging on the side taking away a lot of space). However, the latches to fold down the seats and pull them back up were located in "not so practical places".... So...do I think it is a good car...well...I think it is an okay car. There are much better vehicles in that category out there...However, do i think it is a car worth buying...well considering the alternatives out there and how much they cost or what you can afford for the same amount of money....its worth a look. Because for the same amount of money you will have to settle for an older vehicle. You can look at a few mk 1 Fortuners which I beleive are in the same budget range...but the Mk 1 Fortuner was quite primitive and got better only with subsequent updates.
    1 point
  11. Someone who owns a couple of classics talked me out of using undercoat. He said that this stuff is supposed to go on brand new cars before being driving out. Surface should be 100% rust free for it to properly work. He had once used it on a resto. According to him, surface looked rust free, but it was rusting from inside. Due to the tacky texture of the undercoat, it doesn't come off in flakes as regular paint when the it is rusting. Once a large enough area is rusted the whole thing falls down. Like a whole floor plate would fall off! Even when it falls off, the painted surface looks good with no signs of corrosion. This is what he said. I've not seen this happen. His story was scary enough. I've gone with two part marine paint.
    1 point
  12. Holden Commodore VT. Do we have these in Sri Lanka? I don't think I've seen one.
    1 point
  13. amilaart, I have plenty of past memories in driving around then Ceylon and later Sri Lanka. I first went to Katharagama in year 1958. I did not have a driving license, my late father refused to give our vehicle to go there , therefore my late mother and three adult family friends with two other teenagers decided to use public transport. Al seven of us got up early (All stayed the night in our house) used two Morris Minor taxis to go to Colombo main bus stand, There was no direct buses to our final destination, Buses from Colombo ran only up to Thissamaharama. During the 1950 Taxis were charging 50 Cents for a mile. I remember very well both taxis cost us only 3/00 Rupees to main bus stand from our house Kollupitiya. Thissamaharama Express bus left Colombo at 5AM in the morning, reached to Thissa by 12.30 afternoon, Lunch we had in a hotel near Bus stand there. Few chaps were waiting till we finished our lunch to talk to us, I think they knew we are definitely pilgrims to Katharagama. At that time no bus service was available to Katharagama, only MW numbered vans and Jeeps, did the shuttle service to temple, no tarred road from the main road to the temple. Road was a Gravel road two or three places on the road I remember was bad due to early rain road had washed off. We got into a jeep old 2 WW model 10 people can travel behind two extended seats build in rear one can sit on front left hand drive with Petrol engine. Cost of the hire was Rupees 12 /=. As they drop us near the bridge the jeep we traveled had a party to come back to Thissa. We walked to words the temple and only good place to stay was Ramakrishina mission had few halls no rooms all have to sleep on the flow, the supply mats for all who stay there. Food was very tasty given free of charge all who come and sit on the flow during meals serving time. We all stayed two nights third day came back to Colombo. I remember total cost was about under Rupees 20/= for each entire three day outing. I wrote above was the very long trip I did in the past ( 62 years ago) for three days to share among the AL members, also the public transport experience we all had during that era. Sylvester Wijesinghe Sylvi.
    1 point
  14. If its a modern car, I'm sure you dint neef to sand blast it. Infact newer cars just get the coating on top of the paint. I believe it was like 10 cans(bro went ocd on the nooks and crannies). Let me confirm this.
    1 point
  15. Last one I bought from ebay which is nicely working with "Torque Pro" app. Tested with a 2016 (or 2017 I can't remember exactly) Vitz as well. I bought 3 units from this person in three different times (for my friends also). All came really fast withing 6 - 7 days. But now couldn't find this in his store.
    1 point
  16. Don't worry about the software as much: There are tons of free Apps on the andriod store and they all work with these OBD2 bluetooth attachments... And $15USD is on the high side: Most of the OBD2 bluetooth attachments are around $10. (They are all pretty much the same cheaply made bluetooth unit really, the difference being fancy casings or stickers on the front, so I wouldn't overpay...)
    1 point
  17. Colombo Agencies has hardwired scanners (good and bad) as well as the cheaper bluetooth scanners as shown above for sale. Can't comment on the quality, but ask about warrenties etc if you go look and they should be able to help you out. They are pretty upfront with what's good, and will say if they will provide a warranty or not... Or if you don't care about warrenties and just want it at a lower price: You can go get the same stuff from Ebay as mentioned by 'kmeeg' Like kmeeg, I've had one for years now and while it doesn't help with SRS or Suspension codes it works great for basic engine codes etc. I've used mine on multiple Nissan's, Mazda's, Honda's &Toyota's with no issues.
    1 point
  18. @kmeeg I used to use Torque Pro as well with a similar bluetooth attachment bought on ebay! I remember someone on AL recommended it and I got a bluetooth OBD2 scanner attachment down and downloaded Torque Pro etc... If it was you who posted that up on AL many years ago- Thanks Buddy: I owe you!
    1 point
  19. Very interesting re-building. Dream to do such job... much interesting to read Mr Sylvi @Sylvimemories... Love it ❤️
    1 point
  20. This is what I used with my android phone. Does not work for iPhones. It worked on many Toyota and Honda vehicles but haven't tested on Vitz. The app I used is Torque Pro. I got that scanner more than 10 years ago from ebay and I bet there will be better ones now. It use to stop responding sometimes when using in live data mode. But to check codes it works.
    1 point
  21. (I didn't realize you meant coming to Kandy from Colombo, I thought you just meant traffic inside Kandy city) Oh boy! No easy solution to either of those traffic issues: Tough man! The only solution I can think of for traffic is to take a tuk-tuk back and forth. Its alright in the city, but in this situation that's not really that practical (nor is it safe).
    1 point
  22. The automotive world in SL is screwed up in a way that you can't expect diligent service from a mechanic, you can't expect justice from a traffic police officer, you can't expect sanity from another driver/pedestrian who shares the road with you and you can't expect a seller not to go to the extreme extent in order to fleece as much as possible out of you... so it pays to be prudent and look up the vehicle you're going to buy in every humanly possible way
    1 point
  23. Just to raise the floor deck they lifted the car from the bottom which also meant the rear suspension is different which sort of translates to why people say it is bouncy in the back. I just checked...the just low and the other do have different model numbers. So you can find it out that way....but then you would not need that would you ? Because at the end of the day even if the tires have been changed and suspension changed the hump is there or not there....would anyone go to the extent of actually putting in wheel well humps in there ? (assuming the vehicle has not been bud with a donor vehicle after an accident or something)
    1 point
  24. ジャストロー can be read as justo-Low or justo-Row, I think it comes from english word just-throw. Just throw in whatever sh!t you have easily.
    1 point
  25. Yes the term is justlow Vans that are designed to transport goods instead of passengers are the ones called "justlow" variants. Those have a flat rear floor in order to make loading and transporting stuff easy... rear wheels tend to be smaller, rear ride height would be higher,rear suspension would be different so the ride is relatively less comfortable and the bodyroll is more pronounced than the passenger variant (some say they can identify which is which after a quick drive even if its modified to look like a normal variant like @irage said.) I've heard that you can use a VIN decorder to differentiate a justlow variant from a normal variant
    1 point
  26. Normal vans have a wheel well sticking out on the cargo area floor (Pic 1). Just low vans do not have that and the floor is completely flat (Pic 2). The lack of wheel wells sticking out on the floor gives it more storage space. It is achieved by lifting the rear cargo floor slightly higher and and depending on the model the rear might have two small tires on each side. In Sri Lanka people dislike it and say it costs too much to run because the smaller wheels meant slightly faster wear on the tires. Also, it means that one has to replace 4 tires in the back instead of just two. As a result the Just Low prices have a lower market value. Some have bought these vehicles for their low price and have done all kinds of things to fit a normal size tire in the back...thus the vehicle just has a wierd level in the back. Pic 1 Pic 2
    1 point
  27. OMG ! We have one in SL ? Seriously...our previous generations had some really cool tastes in cars...wha tthe hell happened to us ?
    0 points
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