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From my experience and from what I've observed with other owners, the slave cylinder on the CS Lancer usually lasts for around 60,000km before starting to give trouble. During my ownership, I've replaced the clutch plate once, but the slave cylinder twice. So it might be this. Note that the slave cylinder is sealed and integrated to the clutch fork which is also connected to the release bearing. The entire unit needs replacement, and cannot be serviced. As for the issue being intermittent, yes it's quite possible to to either of the cylinders failing. As the engine and transmission warm up, the bore of the cylinder expands, and if the hydraulic oil seals inside are old and brittle, it can cause fluid to leak within the unit causing the pedal to not engage/disengage the clutch properly. As first point of the diagnosis, take out the transmission oil filler bolt and check if the oil level is low. The oil level should be just below the filler bolt and a little bit of oil coming out when the bolt is taken out means the oil level is spot on. If the oil level is low, this would explain difficulty in shifting (especially when warm). Next, drain the oil observe the colour and if the oil has any metal shavings. The colour should be a nice and golden with a hint of green/grey. Top up with new oil and take the car for a good drive. This will be a good point to start before taking apart the transmission. I had trouble downshifting to second gear after I bought my car and I did a transmission oil change which sorted it out. People rarely think about manual transmission oil changes, but it does matter although oil changes are not needed as frequently as with automatic transmissions.

Thawa sudu paata monawa eliyata awa kiyayda dan naa

407 for 4.5 Mil is absurd. Plenty people here to support it and im pretty sure even to top end ones dont go beyond the 3Mil mark. Anyway may i suggest a few cars within your budget that may be a much better buy. Here are a few options. search each car in the forum and you can know its ups down and faults to make your mind JDM: Sedans Civic FD, Accord (2008-11), Grace (Read about the DCT and Note that its not japan manufactured) Lancer EX (2008-10) Bluebird Sylphy ( 2008-11 Check for dashboard replacements and engine mount wear) Axio ( Personally use a 2014 one, you should be able to find one for 4.5 Mil), Allion 260 (2008 ish), SUV's Honda CRV (2007-10) Nissan X Trail (2008) Toyota Hilux 2006-7 ( Not an SUV but daaamn its a hell of a buy if you can dig around u can find one for around 4.5 mil) L200 - 2008 (also a nice all rounder) Hatchbacks Toyota Passo (Personally used and can recommend, 2014 for 2.8Mil, 2018 is 3.8 Mil), Aqua (Same but maintenance is tricky, 2.9-3.5 mil), Vitz (Popular in LK market), Auris (Basically a corolla hatch, 2010ish for around 3.7 Mil) Honda Fit GP1( Check the oil burning engine issue), GP5 ( Check for DCT issue) Mazda Demio (Underdog car but a pretty decent pick) Nissan March( Used both K11 and K12, Its a good buy except for the really low height in AK12) Euros Audi A1 ( Read well about it, its not the best option but you get the Audi logo for 4.5 mil if that what you need ) BMW 320d 2004 ( check around and you might be able to find one for 4.5-4.8 mil) Mercedes E200 2004 ( Great car, high maintenance , you can find one within your budget)

Members, All Opel cars came to Ceylon during that era had 6 Volts system, only later years they were installed by the manufactor with 12 volts. Most of German cars had similar Dynamos. Only VW had a long shaft dynamo, to drive the cooling fan fitted to dynamo one end. Later 1970 some VW owners did not sanctify with head light power to drive in the night. Out of Colombo which was not lighted well like now days. M/s. Bogala Motors which was existing at that time in Fort close to old clock tower left hand side oppesite of Bover's building, until the Central Bank development project started, imported German "HELLA" Head lamp high powered sealed beams 6Volts. That was a conversion kit did not hit the market. I converted few cars VW , Opel, Skoda, Bogward Renault to 12 volts, Some with 12 Volts complete Dynamos of UK made (lucas). VW had to change the Dynamo field coils winding also new dynamo Armature winding. To give 12 Volts high Amperage. VW dynamo turns at very high RPM to cool the engine. With a very large pulley on crank shaft end, therefore slow generating was never a problem. Some other cars had the slow driving on top gear at very slow speeds, lights used to get dim due to dynamo did not compensate the draw of current during night driving. Mainly due to some motorists did not drive vehicles at recommended gears on low speed therefore the generators did not give high amperage. Alternators did very well for this problem. Few years back I had experienced a long wheel base, 4DR5 engine Jeep had this problem. The owner had spend few thousands to convert to duel A/C New complete system, double insulated soft rear hood so that day heat will not come in, same problem when he drives at slow speeds Alternator was not charging enough in the night. I do not do any electrical repairs now days due to my present service in Automobiles. I corrected his problem with minimal cost. Most of my old friends want me to commence Electrical repairs again. Some what I have mentioned are not relevant to the topic, but it is very important to younger generation motorists to know the past era what our motorist faced. Sylvester Wijesinghe Sylvi.

Ah yes @sathyajithj99 That's far the more likely (albeit, far less exciting) opion... And trust my gutter mind to gravitate immediately towards the more nefarious senario!

Its also interesting that the number is saved as "wife1" on the phone meaning that there is another "wife2" somewhere?

what is the price? the Injection system is German. But not sure about spare parts availability. At least should be a solid AT gearbox, no DCT worries there.

I think what Davy mentioned below could be the culprit. Busted clutch release bearing could prevent you from changing gears. How does the clutch pedal feel? does it feels like its not attached to anything and moves even with a slightest touch? I've faced a situation where I could not change the gears and clutch pedal started to feel very loose. This happened during a drive to Nuwara Eliya. I suspected a busted clutch cylinder (release bearing) but found out that its due to loosen clutch pedal itself which was causing the issue. If i'm correct there's a tightening nut at the base of the clutch pedal which helps to adjust the pedal. In my case, it has got loosen and everything worked fined after tightening it.

"The absurd 407" ?

Morgans were imported by some one in Colombo 00200during 1940s. In early days I cannot give the importers name, remember my late father used to say that he did some Electrical repairs on them. Sylvester Wijesinghe Sylvi.

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